What No One Tells You About Climbing On Pockets (Pocket Injury)
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// TIMESTAMPS //
Context and Overview (00:00)
Part 1: Strong-but-Risky Pocket Technique (00:44)
Part 2: Safe-but-Weaker Pocket Technique (03:09)
Part 3: Alternative Pocket Techniques (03:57)
Part 4: Some Very Basic Training Advice for Pockets (05:02)
Outro and Bloopers (06:33)
// SHOW NOTES //
INTRODUCTION
Pockets are notorious for causing climbing injuries, especially in the lumbricals. But did you know that there are different ways to hold a pocket, and those ways affect how much force you can exert through your fingers and how likely you are to cause an injury? Did you know there are safe ways to train pockets to help reduce an injury? If you did know that, give yourself a crisp high five! If you didn’t know, you ‘bout to do some LEARNIN’.
In this video, we are going to go over what the strong and safe ways to hold a pocket would be, and how you can use this in your climbing to become a safer, smarter climber! We’ll also cover a bit of pocket training at the end, so you can be strong and safe.
PART 1: STRONG BUT RISKY POCKET TECHNIQUE
Before we actually learn what the “strong” pocket technique is, we need to understand this really cool thing called the “Quadriga Effect.”
Quadriga effect
The quadriga refers to the mechanical principle that the force production of our fingers (particularly the flexor digitorum profundus or FDP) is dependent on the development of simultaneous force through all 4 fingers. This is due to the fact that all 4 FDP tendons share a common muscle. Think about walking your 4 favorite doggos. If only 1 dog is pulling, you don’t feel much pull. You can handle it. But, if all 4 doggos see a tennis ball fly across the street and take off, welcome to your first flying lesson.
HoopersBeta_Ep86_PocketTechnique_EmileModesitt_05262021.00_01_45_10.Still008.jpg
So, going back to our own bodies here, if you pull through all 4 fingers you can generate more force. If you are only pulling through 1 or 2 fingers, you will generate less force. Thus, bringing forward the strong but risky pocket technique.
Strong but risky Technique
Imagine you’re on the wall, channeling your inner Sharma, cranking on a 1 finger pocket -- basically a jug. You NEED to send, and screaming “PSSSAAATTT” hasn’t been enough. You need to generate more force, so you pull as hard as you can and while you do this all but one of your fingers curl into a fist. And you send!
So what just happened? Well, by flexing all your fingers into your palm while pulling through the extended single finger in the pocket, you got maximum activation of your FDP. You unlocked the Quadriga effect! This allowed you to generate more force through the single finger, allowing you to pull harder, which resulted in you sending your proj.
Pretty sweet, right? But wait, didn’t I say this was the “risky” technique? Indeed, because the story isn’t over.
You stand atop the climb, hallelujah. Rejoice! You feel so superior! In fact, you decide to throw shade to the haters and flip them the bird. But when you try, you experience an intense sensation of pain in the palm of your hand. You desperately want to throw said shade, but you just can’t do it, so you stand there like a shadeless loser.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/h...
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS //
Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
and
Emile Modesitt (@emile166)
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#climbingtraining #trainclimbsendrepeat #physicaltherapy
Пікірлер: 63
So, start with front lever monos, got it!
@tomhodges7227
3 жыл бұрын
With pinkie
@richardtan1332
3 жыл бұрын
@@tomhodges7227 and one-handed
Wow, actual fresh info! I've been an avid climber for 20 years and I never heard anyone explain the safe way to pull on pockets before. Sounded like it made a lot of sense, I'll be trying these techniques out.
@HoopersBeta
2 жыл бұрын
Glad you found it helpful!!
"Impatient mono training is a guaranteed injury" - quotes to live by
Really appreciate all this in-depth info!!!
Very interesting topic... Revealing!!! Thanks 👏👏👏
Thumbs up guys! I think that us climbers would really appreciate a video about knee in climbing. Anatomy, injuries, recovery,etc. Thanks for sharing quality information!!
Ayyyyeeeee!!! Nice new video to start off the work week! Thanks!
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
happy to oblige ;)
I'm glad her clarified he knows how spiderman shoots webs. I was about to clarify.
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
haha, couldn't let that one go. Thanks for watching all the way through!
Finaly (been wating for this topic)! Freaking great vid. I have had a lot of problems with pockets and lumbrical injurys, but hadn't known that there are safer ways to grip pockets ;D
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
Woohoo! Glad this vid helps :)
Love the videos! Could you do one on hip injuries and prevention? I injured my piriformis climbing - its pain in the ass.
nice info
This is quality information! Why I have never heard anyone talk about this?
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks! It's a simple technique but apparently not common knowledge
I love the content. Do you think you could talk about collateral ligament injuries: modes of injury, symptoms, and rehab? I've found most people talk about pulleys but not much else. I'm 38, been climbing for 25 years, but I've had recurring strains for nearly 3 years in my R middle PIP that I think is collateral ligaments, on both sides, and maybe synovitis. The sides of my finger are tender as well as some general soreness/swelling, and reduced mobility. I saw one hand specialist PT who is also a climber and he thought I had extensor tendon irritation. However, the stretching he suggested hasn't worked. Ultrasounds didn't show anything. He couldn't rule out pulleys either. But the injury is always from dry-firing on small holds, possibly tweaked on sharp/tight outdoor pockets and/or side-pulling a small hold in split-grip (can't remember anymore). I can still put max force without pain through all grips, pretty much any time. Most recently I dry-fired on the moonboard and felt really tender testing my finger laterally, and then climbed V7-9 in the same session. The only thing that seems to finally be working is high-frequency low-intensity hang-boarding. Message and stretching mixed in, too. I presume this is fueling some remodeling? Am I on the right track? I avoid dry-firing and risky situations but I want to feel full strength again.
Great video, open hand two finger pockets are my main weakness (specially when side pulled, pains switches from lumbrical to collateral), I'm trying the "Emil's routine" but using a door frame as a sidepull, let's see how it goes!! :)
I love this video. I thought I solely injured my tendon on a pocket months ago, but now I'm wondering if my persisting pain is from weak/unused lumbrical muscles. I also have wondering for months why lowering my other fingers down when using a pocket hurst so much more! Thanks for the advice, it will surely help me speed up my recovery and strength on pockets
I'm so glad I found your channel. So much quality content! I was wondering if you have any advice on how to help me increase my range of motion at my distal interphalangeal joint. After years of double digit bouldering my rom at the joint has gotten pretty bad to the point where I can only bend it around 45° on my middle and ring fingers on both hands. I can force it down with my other hand down another 10-15° but am limited by pain at the joint to get it down to my goal of 90°. Is this caused by a build up of scar tissue and or synovial fluid and am I at risk of permanent loss of motion ? Any advice would greatly appreciated. Keep up the great work!
Hey Dr. Hoopers, I love your content and learned a lot from this channel! For your future video ideas-could you please explain about shaking when I pull hard on a climb? Subjectively feels like I have the power and strength to send a certain problem but my body would shake as I pull or perform some moves (could even happen on easy boulders as I warm up). What are reasons behind shaking and how to solve this problem if possible? Does more strength training help?
Always dreaded routes with pockets. Got it all in my pocket now 😉, so will be on my way to train for them. Thanks!
Noticed this video was uploaded, didn't watch it yet, strained a lumbrical on a pocket route later in the day... I should've watched this earlier... lol. Awesome vid as usual!
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
Oh noooo 😅 hope it heals quick!
i assumed the quadriga effect was at least, in part, due to the tension placed on the lumbricals pulling on the other FDP tendons in to the pocket… let me explain better: the shear stress on lumbricals is caused by pulling the FDPs of the other fingers coming down, while the others are still up. so it’s pulling harder on that FDP, which is cranking your distal phalanx in to the pocket
is it helpful to train gradually in the strong position to get your lumbricals used to the load, or rather the opposite, train always in the safe position to get your body used to that one and get stronger at it?
Channeling my inner Sharma while absorbing all this wisdom 🧘♂️
Quadriga!🤘 Sounds like a cool motivational shout, much better then "aller"
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
Haha, try it out and let me know how it goes :)
Nice
When I would use the strong method; I would feel it more in the elbow than the fingers or forearms. Any ideas? I am thinking a trapped nerve or tendon as a possibility
After injuring a lumbrical on a 3 finger pocket that I used my pointer through ring finger on, I'm making a point to always take 3 finger pockets with my last 3 fingers instead. My thinking is that by loading the 3 fingers with bi-pennate attachment to FDPs, I can more safely curl my pointer finger like it naturally wants to do when pulling pockets. Similarly I use my pointer finger on monos. Am I overthinking this? Does this make sense at all?
As someone who just injured both A2 and A4 of my middle finger on a pocket, I wish I knew this a week ago 🤣
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
Oh no! Sorry just 1 week too slow!
@taneli2288
3 жыл бұрын
Haha me too! Literally exactly a week ago I injured my ring finger A2 pulley on a pocket 😅
Passat! Hahahahaha
Question: For beginners, you recommend when using 2 fingers, the middle 2 are the way to go. However, I've had a lumbrical injury in the past at my ringfinger, so nowadays I use middle-index for 2 finger pockets. It might be a mental thing but it feels much more secure. Is there any downside to this I should be weary about? Thanks in advance!
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
Good question! Typically the 3rd and 4th digits are the strongest ones, which is why people more often choose them for 2 finger pockets. You are likely moving over to the 2nd and 3rd digit because of the prior injury. You may not have completely retrained the old injury so it is not as strong or it is simply an avoidance issue due to pain. While this isn't a huge negative, I would work on retraining the 3rd and 4th over time so you can progress without limitation! You can still stick to the 2nd and 3rd if you feel more comfortable with it, but that may not always be possible :)
@ecce_01
3 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta Thanks a lot for the reply (and all your amazing content). I'll stick with (mostly) using the 2nd and 3rd for now and incorporate training the 3rd and 4th finger in my workouts!
PASSAT!
Can you train your lunbricals to be more resilient or should you just stay away from it
@HoopersBeta
Жыл бұрын
You can, yes. You just need to be patient with your progression similar to most other training.
where was this video 2h ago before my session :(
@HoopersBeta
4 ай бұрын
It was definitely here.... so either the internet was just hiding it from you, or.... you simply didn't know you needed it in your life at the time! :) Hopefully it helps you going forward, though!
it's the "reverspiderman"
I can hear Tai Lopez just saying KNOWLEDGE over and over again while watching this video
Today, i climbed pockets for the second time in 18 months. Also today, i injured myself for the second time in 18 months. Fuck that shit!
@HoopersBeta
3 ай бұрын
Oof, that sucks! Sorry to hear that :/
Even the "safe" method hurts for me. How to fix this?
@HoopersBeta
5 ай бұрын
Start at very low intensity and build up slowly from there
@Ramon314
Ай бұрын
@@HoopersBetaso today I got diagnosed with Dupuytren disease. Apparently that was what causes the pain. Still trying it was increasing the rate of development of the disease. I got advice to switch to toproping instead of bouldering, but I want to keep bouldering. What should I do?
Haha, just hurt my finger in a pocket yesterday :D
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
noooooo! Well, time to start rehabbing, perhaps?
Algo
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
Lol every time you post this now it makes me smile. I mean, is it a worthwhile HB video without nbka8rs commenting for the algorithm? Not sure, but probably not 😅 Thanks for the continued support!
@nbka8rs
3 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta I love every video you've dropped and if I don't "algo" you it's because i forgot to do it...lol. ill support forever bro, in 7.25 years when you drop the HB injury book for climbers, ill be first in line, just make sure your book isnt too much like Dr. Vagys
Noice!
Dear KZread algorithm. Please stop hiding these videos from my sub feed. I watch literally all of them all the way through and always drop a like. This site is so stupid.
@HoopersBeta
3 жыл бұрын
I agree! Common KZread... share us with the people! (also, isn't there a bell or something you can hit to be notified of new videos from us? :) ) I would prefer KZread just notify you regardless though... thanks for supporting and watching all the vids!!
@davidtorres8396
3 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta I see what you did there! Problem with the bell is I’m subbed to do many channels I don’t know how to pick just a few so I picked none haha. I’ll go out of my way to search for my favs which are all climbing. Hooper, mellow, lattice