I have watched hundreds of climbing videos and this is one of the best ever for information.

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

That’s great to hear 😅😅

I climb V11 at this point and train 3 x 2-2.5 hours a week. This includes hangboarding, stretching, climbing and all other exercises. I like to focus on quality over quantity. You learn way better fresh than exhausted, and also get way stronger.

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

🙌🙌

@EloiGarrido

2 ай бұрын

I do the same, is better for me climb less days but with high intensity than climbing every day, the rest days are for active recovery like stretching and cardio.

Wish this video was out a year ago. Thank you so much for the great advice

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

Glad it was helpful! 🙏

Thanks for sharing your experiences and these great bouldering tips, Maddie! 0:10 Tip#1: Repeat boulders 1:38 Tip#2: Fall correctly 3:15 Tip#3: Build a consistent hangboard habit 4:56 Tip#4: Vary your climbing styles 6:04 Tip#5: Make up boulders 7:04 Tip#6: Don’t spend too much time at the gym 8:27 Tip#7: Deload often

@richardsonsclimbing

3 ай бұрын

No problem!

So happy you mentioned learning how to fall! I've measured the impact of falling in bouldering, and it's high enough to cause injuries simply due to repetition. So even when you don't sprain your ankle, over time it could cause degeneration in the joints. Learn to fall: T-rex, Turtle, Roll! Thanks for the video :)

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

Completely agree!

These guides are better than what Magnus is charging for his course... Thank you!

ty for the advice

Thanks, these are some excellent tips!

Wow what a gem this channel is. So glad I found it. Thank you.

This channel is a gem, im so glad i found it! Great posters btw

@richardsonsclimbing

Ай бұрын

:) Thank you

Enjoyed the video, solid tips for session design and focusing on improving technique as well as those about consistency with training the fingers and keeping session volume down. I would avoid getting prescriptive with those as though there is always this urge to provide guidance, there is simply too much athlete context to consider. Your experiences on repeating climbs, venturing into antistyles, etc., are far more important than a common fingerboard protocol. Would love to see you expand on those elements of session design in future videos like what you look for when you repeat boulders and when to move on.

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

That’s a great point! Do you have any other specific topics you’d like me to go in depth on?

I just went to a climbing gym for the second time yesterday. These videos are so helpful. I'm kind of athletic, but my technique is garbage. I got a few 4's yesterday, but I made them soooo much harder than necessary. Thank you for helping me fix myself :)

That's interesting! Love the time tip - I've started bouldering about a year ago, and I climb 2-3 times a week (just last week went up to 3-4), around 2 hours. We started out with 1-2 times, 1-1,5 hours. I've often felt our sessions were shorter than those of many others, and wondered if I should climb longer. So I'm really happy to hear that what we're doing is actually what you recommend! (I did try going more often when we started out, but soon realised that my body wasn't ready for it - I'm 40 and didn't do any sports as an adult ;))

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

Absolutely! Quality over quantity!

Nice tips. I would also add: don't forget about training antagonist muscles otherwise you will build imbalance that will lead to injury. Climbing is mostly pulling, so some exercises that perform pushing (push-ups for example) should be added to the training. And don't forget about rotator cuff exercises. Lack of stability in the shoulder is a fast way for a serious injury. I wish I knew this years ago.

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

Yes great point! I’ve been lucky with my shoulders so far, so I haven’t learned (the hard way) to take care of them!

i love CR, always good setting when i visit. Gravity is my home gym tho :D

The last tip is super important.

Great video, it captures really helpful tips. Just about the time spent in the gym, I think it depends on the intensity/volume and the nature of workout/activity , might be okay only for 30mins or may be fit into hours. But I generally agree spending too many hours just limit/high-volume climbing esp. every session is not a good idea and potentially ground for injury. 🙌🏽✋🏼

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

Totally agree! Closer to competitions, I’ll go to the gym for a 20-minute session - once even 10 mins!

Tip n.2: do not stick the landing! Zach: sticking every landing ever in every video hahaha. But seriously, why is he doing that? Very inspiring channel btw congrats to both of you!

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

Lmao so true 😂 Zach here! Yeah honestly it’s a bad habit of mine that actually just comes down to laziness. It can be a lot of effort to the drop and roll over and over so i basically just accept that I’m adding an additional 5-10 percent risk during training in exchange for being able to walk right off the mat after sticking the landing 😅

I started climbing a little over a year ago and in that time I’ve learned all these the hard way. I feel like the hardest thing has been for me to rest because I generally never have. I’m a multi sport athlete with climbing being my second main sport next to cycling. Learned how to rehab my joints really well, so that’s good. Now I’m smart and only climb two days a week for 1-2 hours each. If I’m not climbing I hang board at home, core work and improving my hip/overall flexibility.

when is the best time to do max hangs? Before a bouldering session? I wouldn't want to lose any finger strength for my climbing session but that seems like the most logical time

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

Given infinite time, I find the best time is a few hours after a bouldering session. I agree with you - when you hangboard at your max your tendons are in a more vulnerable position since you just broke them down to get stronger. I like to do hangs as a separate session at the end of the day, but some people go right into climbing afterwards and it seems to work for them 🤷

I've seen people use weights and portable edges for hangboard training. What are your thoughts on this type of training and using resistance bands as an alternative to weights? It seems like a much easier way to build up gradually compared to using an actual hangboard

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

Yep portable edges work great too and it just comes down to personal preference! An important part of training is making sure you believe in what you’re doing so do what works for you :)

Thank you for for all advice. It makes me deeply review my current training routine. But may I know that dose the 90 minutes include warm up cool down. And, I also curious about the total time on wall during your recommended training day. Thanks so much again for great content 💪💪

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

Yeah great questions! 90 minutes does not include the warm up. For me, I’m usually resting between 2 and 5 minutes between each attempt, so the majority of that training time is resting!

@a22549338

4 ай бұрын

@@richardsonsclimbing great thanks. 🙏

You probably know best, but I think hangboarding less than body weight earlier can help prevent injuries for newer climbers. I had a huge spike in strength when I started climbing, but my fingers were very far behind my ambition. This lead to a nasty pulley injury off a pocket.

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

Absolutely agree!

Tip from me (35 year old V6 climber): do hangboarding once a week for about 4 to 8 weeks first, and only then go to twice a week. My fingers felt pretty sore and close to injured after starting with twice a week max hangs

I started hangboarding very recently. I set up a timer and hangs the first 8s of every minute for 8 minutes with the large holes. It is still easy enough, but so far i never climbed after the hangboarding. Should I ? Or do i risk injuring myself? And if not how do you incorporate finger training with your rest days? Also i liked the video a lot, after 2 years of practice i realise i dont always fall properly so i should now focus on this! I try really hard to not injure myself (i warm up a lot) and i feel like I've improved a bit just by watching this video 😀

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

Haha that’s great! Yeah that sounds like a good hangboarding protocol. I don’t like to climb after I do max hangs (where I’m pushing myself to the limit). I find my tendons are fatigued and susceptible to injury. I would hangboard after a lighter climbing session, or with 20-30 minutes rest after a longer session.

First time i saw an injury in bouldering was on a meme-app and it was pretty heavy. I went straight to youtube to search how to fall correctly. I still wonder what to do when you fall on your sides

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

Yeah that’s a tricky one. In the end, falling sometimes knocks the wind out of you but the important thing is to protect your head and arms by tucking them in and rolling!

I definitely climb for too long all the time. I have no skin and I only really stop when it gets too late or I start injuring myself 😅

It’s probably bad that I did all of these red flags when starting. I started hang boarding and campus boarding at like 4-5 months in. I’ve been climbing for around 10 months now climbing v8-v9 and have not been injured yet somehow😅.

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

Haha oh no! Just be mindful of how your fingers are feeling 😅

I find that its easier to practice technique when im tired, because im forced to use better technique because i cant just muscle through. Maybe i just shy away from the more difficult problems.

@richardsonsclimbing

Ай бұрын

That’s absolutely true. I found that was the case for me in lead climbing. When you’re pumped you’re relying on your technique heavily. That said, consistently training hard or technical moves when you’re past your prime in the session is where accidents happen. 90% of my ankle sprains were at the end of a session 😭

im that weird guy who falls elaborately, but i see much better climbers than me fall with terrible form and no comfort at all and its crazy to me!

Def in category of begginer mistakes. 3 times per week 3 hours sessions, after 5 months pulley injury😅

@richardsonsclimbing

4 ай бұрын

😭😭

First

"Go to other gyms". Brother I'm lucky I have one gym within a 60 min drive.