My car wont stop drinking lean

Really feel like I can be a mechanic after watching this 😶😳🥰

Most don't realize if you own any of these vehicles check your dip stick as well, people will spend all this money and it's because the dip stick is worn out haha

If its a v6 or v8 with a code p0171 bank 1, your theory would be incorrect because it would be lean on both banks.

great class

Engine runs lean after replacing the oxygen sensor. In the first 15 to 20minutes vehicle accelerates fine but after heated up it hesitates and vehicle doesn't rev up. The sensor is genuine and bought from the agent. What may cause this problem?

mabe shave one day

It’s been over a week now I’m having the same problem. It reads (Po171 system too lean Bank 1 ) still haven’t figured out if there’s a vacuum leak, bad O2 sensor, or bad fuel delivery!. I’m getting tired of looking for myself. The sad thing is there’s isn’t an honest mechanic where I live, they’re all crooks, thieves simply robbing us in broad daylight. And I can’t afford a new car

Visual inspection… yep, I found the problem and fixed it! Thanks very much Charles for another super-informative video. Keep ‘em coming!

Nice review. For those of us who don't do this every day, remembering which way the values are pointing is the first hurdle. Also it's wise to remember whether we are looking at the correction (fuel trim), or raw O2 sensor data. That's mostly a matter of understanding tools, in this case the interface program we are using. Conveniently, when looking at O2 sensor data, higher voltage means rich, and when looking at trim, higher positive numbers mean the system is adding fuel. That similar alignment makes it easier to remember. Of course on the surface it can be confusing since adding fuel is usually a response to a lean condition downstream, which may be completely corrected by the addition of extra fuel. So I see your point, look at trim first because the O2 sensor data may be obscured by correction of injector pulse width. Thanks! Your description of the most common points of failure adds practical guidance to how experienced techs solve problems.

Nailed it. Been to so many mechanics, had the PCV done, injectors, EVAP, MAF....Paid thousands. Still got the fault code. Had a root round the bay today myself and found and easily found the brake valve hoses were badly cracked!! Just paid $165 bucks for replacement, can't wait to get it in and test it. The cars fuel economy has been terrible for over a year!

Great video Charles. I remember having a big problem with this on my old 1.8t AWP engine. I replaced the diverter valve because it went bad and when reinstalling the hose on the left side of the diverter valve it was in a slightly different position than it was initially. This caused it to touch what looked to be a metal fuel line behind it. From the heat of the fuel line the rubber hose split open causing a huge leak. I battles this problem for a LONG time and the car always ran in limp mode. Just advice to everyone when working in your car, pay attention to all the details!! Listen to Charles! If i just did a more thorough inspection it would have saved me a lot of time and money. Lesson learned I guess.

Thank you HumbleMechanic for making this video and your clear explanation. I found my wife's problem through your basic explanation. the last time the Subaru was in the dealership they removed a clamp and never replaced it leaving the air intake the fall off which is what caused the check engine light. I never would have thought to do a visual inspection had I not watched your video. Thank you.

Such a great video. You explain things so well! I have one of these in the shop right now and I can't wait to get back tomorrow and figure it out.You really make me want to continue my career as a technician.

I don’t know much about cars but this video has helped me tremendously in understanding what’s wrong with my car. Thank you

Hey HumbleMechanic, I really enjoy this community of channels, I mean You, EricTCG, ScottyK, ChrisFix, and others, this community has really served me well and saved me 1000's of dollars, i'm getting a new clutch atm, paying 1400 for a shop to do it, a HD clutch in my 2002 3.4L V6 Hilux which to me is reasonable, I cannot do that with my tool kit, just before having to surrender my car to the shop, for the first time ever in 5 years it would not start, I have a new battery, it cranked strongly half a dozen times, cranking it for a handful of seconds each time, it did fire up eventually after letting it rest between each attempt and it was rich, tested all the vacuum lines, they were fine, pulled out my MAF sensor, it was dirty, already had the cleaner and turned out that was the problem, MAF was filthy, easy 20 (for the can Co2) fix that, I can only guess what a shop would charge extra. I asked Eric to recommend more Toyota designated Channels and he did name ScottyK, so I would like to ask you the same Q.

This is an awesome video Charles. I don't know how many times I've seen people throw o2 sensors at a vehicle with P0171 and 174 without any diag.

just had this issue, my PCV system had big cracks and vacuum leaks. don't forget to look there also!

You're a great educator my friend

very cool charles TIL thanks for the awesome vods