Off to find some bottle tops! There must be 100 useful tips in this video - superb.

@GeraldineMurphyEnamel

2 жыл бұрын

Great Brian, I'm glad the tips are useful and thanks for the feedback. I'll be doing more videos during the summer when I have more time.

Hi Geraldind...love your tutorials. They're very informative and helpful..You mentioned using ceramic fibre board as stilts in kiln and enamel won't stick to it .I'm intriqued to know whether that's a particular ceramic fibre. Thank you from Lyn

@GeraldineMurphyEnamel

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Lyn, thanks for getting in touch. No, it is any ceramic fibreboard. I only use it for pieces where the back won't show - in framed artwork for example because it leaves a mark on the back so wouldn't be appropriate for jewellery for example. But if the back is concealed then it is fine - in fact if you are planning on using some sort of epoxy resin/glue to adhere your piece to mount board then the rough surface that is left on the back by removing the fibreboard is very useful.

Whats the thickness of the copper sheet? Your work is beautiful!

What temp do you fire at please ?

Fantastic video / thank you / I could listen to you for hours! Where do you get your liquid enamel from and also your ceramic supports?

@GeraldineMurphyEnamel

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Karen, thanks for contacting me. Well, you can get liquid enamel from a number of suppliers. If you are in the USA you should try Thompson Enamels in Kentucky. The one I use for the backs from Thompson is called BC-1070. They sell it in dry form and liquid form (get the dry form as it is cheaper and cheaper regarding postage too). There is an agent in Denmark called Enamel Supply but VAT is very high in Denmark so it may be cheaper to get it from the US regardless of where you are located. The other place I would recommend is WG Ball in the UK (also lead-free). I much prefer Thompson liquid enamel by far. And also, for the backs of wall pieces I don't care what it looks like as nobody will ever see it but if you are doing jewellery go for something that will end up looking decent. Such as BC 1070 or use one of the dark colours like Black. It is much more uniform. Also, it is best to use de-ionised water (which can be purchased at any motor factors shop and costs about €5 for 5 litres...). As for the ceramic fibreboard, I think I got it from Vitrum Signum in London but it can be found in loads of places. I hope this helps!

@Karenjanehall

4 жыл бұрын

Geraldine Enamel Workshops thank you Geraldine / I will try and track some down

Do you always use a liquid on the back of your pieces

@GeraldineMurphyEnamel

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Sylvia, no, not always - it depends on the project