Terrific video!

Wow! That is truly impressive to watch! When you are carefully checking as you go along, are you checking if you are coming up to the shinogi? Or are you looking for something specific along the edge itself? Also it looks like you strop at a really high angle - does that not risk undercutting the uraosi along the edge? I wish I could see that in person! By the way, your video explaining the complex geometry of the Yanagiba was one of the most interesting things I've ever watched. Please keep these videos coming!

@MonsterS4R996

Жыл бұрын

I’m mostly looking at the location of the stone/blade contact patch. With coarse stone, the contact patch is bigger. As you go higher up in grit#, the contact patch becomes smaller and smaller. When I start sharpening, I’m aiming at the wrought iron/steel welded line. NOT the edge. (In other word, in the beginning, the edge is NOT touching the stone. So, when I flip the blade and do the visual checking , in the first 45 - 60 second, I’m making sure that the edge does NOT come in contact with the stone face. If I see the edge is already touching at this stage, I will adjust the placement of my left hand fingers. (Also, worth mentioning I use only two fingers, not three.) The stropping … IF you are talking about “touch up” with Spyderco Ultra Fine , I do it at 30 degree. So, yes, I am putting micro bevel. BUT, this topic (micro bevel on Yanagiba) deserves a separate, dedicated video. So I’m not going to go detailed explanation here. If it’s about newspaper strop, all I’m doing is just de-burr. Removing the wire-edge. So many KZread knife sharpening videos are focused on “bragging about the sharpness right after it’s sharpened”. That’s the kind of sharpening for KZread. I don’t care if the knife can cut paper, manila rope, whittle free hanging hair. I need an edge that can keep cutting 5PM to 10PM, while the edge is repeatedly hit to HDPE cutting board. (HDPE is pretty harsh on the knife edge.)

@GibsonCutlery

Жыл бұрын

@@MonsterS4R996 Thank you for the clarification! I was talking about the newspaper (on the stropping), but that makes sense now, thank you. Fantastic video!

@l26wang

Жыл бұрын

@@MonsterS4R996 “bragging about the sharpness right after it’s sharpened” The major part of this is because the burr is extremely difficult to remove cleanly. After you remove the wire edge that's easy to feel and see with the naked the, there are still micro burrs present that you can't feel or see. The only way to deburr completely is to do challenging cut tests - thin paper listen for feedback, BESS etc. If the burrs are left, the edge retention will be affected. So it is for show, but also has a very real purpose.

Keep sharing your yanagiba knowledge it’s really helpful hope you do more videos I’m a sushi chef my self

@MonsterS4R996

7 ай бұрын

Thank you, I will! Nice to see a comment from the people in the same line of work!

@lorenzorosales4851

7 ай бұрын

@@MonsterS4R996 I’m not nearly as good as you and no where near how experienced you are but I got like 2 years experience working in for local high traffic teppen / sushi spot before this I was a line cook for multiple restaurants here in fresno ca

You need to make a guide just on how to sharpen your in knife in general

I just tried your style of sharpening, I think I have an uneven shinogi and with a 800 doesn't seem to remove fast enough to make it flat, should I try 400? (Need to buy it though) Not sharpening on the edge as well until the very end with high grit (the highest I have is 3000 + stropping works like a champ, edge lasts for a week of usage in my case (blue steel #2), only 1-2 day of intense fish slicing) I got 'baited' on making it betatogi with no microbevel and had to move up the shinogi with 220, probably it got uneven there, right now I readded a microbevel, edge is stronger and doesn't cause microchip. Do you recommend me buying a 400 or try with 220? Edit: also do you mind telling me why placing the finger that high? That's like at the top of the shinogi line

@MonsterS4R996

Жыл бұрын

First, about 400 grit stone. In your particular case, yes, I think purchasing 400 grit stone is worth trying. 220 is for "fixing", fixing big chips, broken tip, re-profile, regrind, that sort of thing. If you use 220, you'd need 400 before switching to 800. (Jumping from 220 to 800 can work. But the scratch mark made by 220 stone is way too deep for 800 stone. You will either spend way too much time (and still left with some deep scratches made by 220), or wear out 800 too quick. Purchasing 400 will save your time and money (in a long run). Also, when you are making correction (to shinogi line, bevel itself, edge line(profile), etc, etc), Don't try to fix it all at once. You can always remove more metal later. But you CANNOT put them back on, if you remove more than necessary. About my fingers on really high place... If you look at the video carefully, you can see my finger placement changes, moves around. When my fingers are "higher" (near the spine), my right hand is applying sort of twisting force (torque) on the blade counter clock wise. The force pushing down the blade (by left hand fingers) is slightly stronger than this twisting torque, so the blade will not stand up. BUT, even though the angle (of the blade against the stone face) does not change, this will increase the pressure on the edge, significantly. (A lot more than by simply pressing down near the edge line by left hand fingers.) Okay, I think that needs dedicated video, too.

@owo7094

Жыл бұрын

@@MonsterS4R996 yeah definitely needs a video 😆 I guess I'll invest on a 400. 8000 needed for sharpening purposes? Or more for aesthetics? I am very scared to sharpen the tip because I sharpened too much causing the metal to be too thin (which I forcefully removed otherwise I'd crack anytime), so as you said on another comment never sharpen the edge on low grit? Unless you have chips Also, how much 'pressure' do you use? Obviously it's hard to explain but about medium force it's enough? Not too light to make the knife wobble and not too hard that grinds a lot of metal

@MonsterS4R996

Жыл бұрын

@@owo7094 8000 is needed to "thin down" the actual cutting edge. I will make a video and explain later. But, imagine the blade in cutaway view. And the size of abrasive grit. When people are talking about "toothy edge", they just think about the view looking at the blade from the side. BUT, in order to get truly functional toothy edge, you need to take the edge to higher grit stone (higher than 3K), then, come back to lower grit stone with VERY LIGHT pressure. That way, the edge (nose R of "V") is thin, but have some nice teeth to produce aggressive bite. Also, you don't want to leave deep scratch mark on the blade (especially Hitachi white), as water correct in the groves and cause corrosion. The pressure changes depending on the grit# and what I'm aiming. But, if you have to bear down with a lot of force and your body weight to get a result, you are using too fine grit. Bob Kramer says it's about 8lb of downward force that he'd use the most. That should give you some reference point.(Now I have to get back to work.)

@letstalkabouthenry

7 ай бұрын

do you mind explaining what is he doing with the kireha in the video because i don't understand 😭 thank you

Hello, just quick question, what kind of stone is that in the leather case please?

@MonsterS4R996

6 ай бұрын

Spyderco Ultra Fine

@user-pm7pw1tl3t

12 күн бұрын

3:26

You sharpen knife all flat no angle?

@theqilodge4607

Жыл бұрын

Single bevel knives are sharpened like that yes

@radoslawjocz2976

14 күн бұрын

​@@theqilodge4607That video is wrong. Sharpening should be on bevel side.

@user-pm7pw1tl3t

12 күн бұрын

​@@radoslawjocz2976 he is

you dont set up any koba?

@MonsterS4R996

Жыл бұрын

No, you don’t want Koba(小刃) on Yanagiba & Usuba. Koba means secondary bevel. (Think as CQC-7). Itoba (糸刃) means micro bevel (which, you can’t see with naked eyes.) And, while some say no, I’d (most of the time) put micro bevel on mine.

@robertobachis

Жыл бұрын

@@MonsterS4R996 a video about it would be great Maestro

@MonsterS4R996

Жыл бұрын

@@robertobachis Okay, I will try.

Z

Бред!