Excellent video, I watched your video clip at 4 min. interval for 3 times, I followed exactly what you are describing in your video, I paid $20.00 for Motor coupling for my Whirlpool washer which is over 20 yrs. old. At the end I had hard time to put the whole front metal piece back, somehow I could not line it up with back portion of the washer, after less than couple hrs. finally I managed to fix everything the way you are describing in your video, washer is running like a new machine....I sincerely THANK YOU for all your help, with your help I fixed my problem in less than 3 hrs. and I spent $q20,00 for Motor Coupling.

Thank SO much for the step by step to changing the coupler. I used this video about 3 years ago to replace the coupler and now need to replace it again and tighten the water pump tubes because they are leaking a little. Thank you, you saved my 100's of dollars for a new washer.

Your video saved me tons of money. Your step by step instructions was extremely easy to follow and the cost of the new motor coupling was only $19.

I don't know what it would have cost to have a repairman fix this but thanks to this video I didn't have to find out, great video, thanks

Thank you so much. Steps were identical on my washer! Easy to follow. Thanks. To those who read the comments before you try the repair...be aware of the plastic clip that is towards the bottom middle of the back of the washer. It attaches the back to the frame that holds the basin up. I accidentally broke it in mine while tipping the basin and frame backwards onto the ground.

Thank you Steve for this great video. I am currently making my way through your instructions and am up to the part where I took the broken coupler off. It was rewarding to finally be able to see the broken piece and confirm that was the issue with the washing machine. Will order the new coupler and continue with your video once it arrives. Thanks again!

I didn't know the first thing about how washers work but I was able to fix it with your help. Thanks so much!

the hardest part of all of this was putting the cabinet back on, It fought with me and fought with me, Couldn't find the little tabs on the bottom. so now it is just sitting there until i come across a video that show's me exactly what to do. But this seems to have fixed my problem. thank's ALOT!

Your videos are the most helpful and well explained that I have been able to find anywhere. This is the second time that I thought the job was beyond my ability to repair, and the way you break it down makes it obvious very quickly that this is not the case. $16 part instead of hundreds on repair or thousands on replacement. Thank you so much!

Great video. You maked what would have been an all day event less than an hour. Thank you so much.

Thanks I did this and changed the clutch by watching your videos and boom my washer is back in action!!! Thanks.

Thank you so much, your video was detailed and and very helpful, now i just fixed my washing mashing and saved some money at it. Those that gave a thumbs down obviously they cannot follow instructions, because i am not that handy at fixing things and this was the best instructions i have found.

Thanks again for the video. I had changed the same part a few years ago but did not remember the procedure. Great job.

This worked well for me. The kitchenaid model we had was 12 years old and it had some extra rubber pipes for things like fabric softener that were attached under the cabinet, 3 in total. Other videos show leaving the cabinet on, but its much easier to seat the coupler from above. One thing i did have trouble with was getting the cabinet back on. There are no screws except the two behind the control panel - so it was one of those, get the left side on, get the right side on, the left side pops off, or the front side pops out. Ultimately needed a second pair of hands to get the cabinet on .....the easy part!

Thanks so much for sharing this tutorial. It was spot on. I am mechanically challenged and my only mistake was a big one. I put the coupler on the wrong side of the motor like a doofus. Fortunately my Dad has every tool known to man and we were able to get it off and I put it on the correct end. Tip, use a deep well socket the size of that metal circle of the coupler to get it secured on the motor arm... Just make sure you put it on the right end. Other than that major screw up it was an easy job that cost me $10 and should've only taken an hour. God bless people that make these vids.

@partselect

10 жыл бұрын

Hi Darrin, thanks for sharing your repair story! We all make mistakes from time to time; in a way, it's part of the fun and learning process with any DIY task. Glad it wasn't an irreversible one, and we are happy you've got your washer working again! Thanks for the kind words, too.

@badmojo420

5 жыл бұрын

Great tip about using a socket to get the coupler seated onto the shaft, thanks for mentioning it. I was having issues with my motor overheating after installing the new coupler and couldn't figure out why everything was so tight after reassembly, but after taking it apart and hammering the coupler ends onto the shafts more it freed everything up nicely.

Great video, fantastic instruction and thank you for putting this together. The only thing I would add (even just text over the top of the video) is the importance of properly seating the motor coupler. Not doing that (like I did) leads to the 'burning smell' of a motor off kilter. I had to do it all over again, and now it works great (having properly seated the couplers). Thanks again!

Thank you, you just saved me a bunch of money! Mine turned out to be a sock stuck in the drive motor, which caused it to be just far enough away it did not engage and made a horrible noise.

Thank you so very much - You helped us fix the problem - very clear directions, illustrations. 🤠 especially the week before Christmas ! Wishing you a Happy Holiday Season

Thank you so much for this video! It made replacing the coupling a breeze!

Thanks so much. Your videos are always very well done. Rod

great video. I was having problems with mine. after watching your video I took mine apart and found the pump was plugged. took apart, cleaned and back in action in less then 30 minutes. thanks

Thank you!! You do an excellent job of explaining everything!!

You can do the coupler without removing the cabinet but there is less clearance to work. I had a bit of trouble getting the sides back into the frame tabs. Also be aware of the water outlet if you do remove the frame so as not to damage it.

@halc.2899

Жыл бұрын

Correction:if you remove the cabinet not frame.

@erviegonterman6294

Жыл бұрын

I thought you could...

@BlondieSL

Жыл бұрын

I am not sure why, but all of Steve's videos on these machines, he removes the cabinet to get to the lower parts. I've repaired our washer a couple of times over the years and never took the cabinet off. It's a bit tight, but still easy to get to the clips to remove the motor assembly and transmission. No need to create extra work when not necessary.

@handyman8739

9 ай бұрын

Came to comment on not needing to remove the cabinet, I will add that if you place some 4" blocks under it when laying it down and keep the discharge hose elevated you'll likely avoid a wet floor and potential scuffing of both the floor and the water connections.

Very good video repaired mine in under one hour thanks for sharing!

Excellent video, looked the same inside as my own washer!

I would have totally gotten into a fight with the pump. 😂

Thanks so much for your helpful video! You saved me lots of time and money. I am really appreciative of you.

Thank you! The hardest part was getting the cabinet back on.

@partselect Thank you. Your assistance is very much appreciated !!

Hi there, I can understand how this would be frustrating! My best suggestion would be to keep an eye on the load size, and inspect the gears for any wear. Are you replacing with after-market couplers? That plays a big role as well, as those often last just a few weeks. I hope that helps!

Excellent video. Exactly the information I needed!

I have a Amana it looks to be the same or similar set up, thanks for the tutorial

Thanks, i just wish i had as much room as u have in the Video, all went well, Cheers, Brownieintas

Thankful sir this is helped me to get my own done thank you again

Outstanding video! Thank you very much. You saved me a couple hundred bucks.

Ditto for me, excellent job both video and information wise!

Thanks for the help. Your video was very helpful and saved me from calling a repair man.

I have a Magic Chef washer and it just started making a VERY loud clicking sound. similar to a fans blades spinning and hitting what they are contained in. The model no. is CAV2004AWW thank you!

Thank you, this helped me alot.

thanks, my kenmore stopped spinning and this did the trick.

@partselect

10 жыл бұрын

Glad to hear we could help you out, Danny! Thanks for the kind words!

Hi Ashley, Thanks for the additional information. Have you checked to see if something is jammed under the agitator? If nothing's there, it may indicate an issue with the transmission. Just to be clear - the washer is filling, skipping the agitation phase, and then spinning, and draining?

Hi, Alicia! It sounds like the coupler may not be installed securely. It would be the smell of the burning rubber that you're smelling. I'd suggest re-installing it, making sure everything is aligned and tightened up. You may even notice some rubber pieces beneath the washer, if it's installed incorrectly. I hope that helps!

That's great news! Thanks for sharing the feedback. :)

Thanks just saved me some money

Thanks! A $10 part and free sweat equity!

Space was extremely tight, typical 1970's vintage modest split foyer home. Decided not to remove cabinet on Kenmore 800 washer. Opted instead to tilt machine back 45 degrees supported on homeowner's kitchen footstool that was at hand.

Super helpful 👍 thank you!😃

Excellent video. This was exactly what I was looking for. ...however, after replacing the motor coupling with a brand-new unit, I ran an empty load on "Small" to test it out. As soon as the tub filled and the agitator started, the new one broke almost instantly. Ideas?

The maytag washer model number is A5000, it makes noises and it will spin the water out, but the agitator won't rotate the clothes, someone I had spoken suggested possibly a timer...it does make noises more like a hum, thank you

Great video! thank you!

Hi there, Thanks for your question, and sorry to hear about this issue with your washing machine. I'm glad the video was of help for you! Can you provide your model number? It will better help me to troubleshoot with you here. Thanks again. Cheers.

This is good, but replacing the cover over the frame was hard for me. Took me several hours to get cover lined up, and to get all the way to back so the notches at back of frame would fit into the cover properly. Any tricks or tips in doing this for next time?

Thank you!

i do advance the timer a notch but it wont spin, but like I said before when I leave it off for about 15 minutes and then turn it on and turn the dial all the way to spin cycle it works again and spins normally

the notch does move, and sometimes I do move it, but nothing happens, you just hear the motor running but no spinning, but like I mentioned before, when I leave the machine OFF for ar least 15 minutes and come back and turn the notch directly to the end spin cycle it works normally, if you want I could send a little video clip of the situation

hi I have used your website before to fix my dryer and wow so helpful .....I was able to fix it with just a few part changes saved me a ton of money I cannot thank you enough.... I am now having a problem with my washer .....making a horrible sound in the spin cycle...almost sounds like it's taking off like an airplane..... on some cycles it will not even spin...which parts do you suggest I use? model # mav408daww.. maytag

Im having a similar issue what should i do the washer machine model wtw5520sq0 goes through the cycles but the clothes are still wet to

I'm having trouble to put cover back after changing Direct drive coupling. Do you have any tips?

This saved me over $100 in service fees!

Dear part select I got by mail the coupler that I ordered from you guys, my whirlpool sometime it does the end cycle spin and sometimes it doesnt, but I hear the motor humming. So I am changing the coupler, but I noticed that when it does not spin the motor feel very hot. I already bought from you the clutch also, for a different problem and it was fixed. could a broken coupler has to do with the overheating of the motor. Thanks

Thank you for your video. On 4:50 there are two small white plastic cone, one on top just below the black tube and the second one is on the left side. If you remove this plastic cone inside it is a metal Pin. Mine fell off and tried to guess how/where to put it back. First try, i insert it to the hole of first plate, hole of second plate and hole on the third plate. On dry spin, it was shaking bad. On second try, I insert pin to the hole of first and second plate. On dry spin, it still not smooth, it vibrate. if I will put pin on the hole of the first plate only what is the use? although, I haven't tried. What are these two pins (3 inch with hole on the tip) for anyway?

May I know how to replace the part 22002342 (6-2300050 ) shaft center (deep tub) of maytag washer? Thanks!

Hi there, I've just responded to your comment on another video regarding this issue, before I saw this one which included your model number. My apologies. If you can provide some more detail (IE: On which cycles does it not spin? Does it pump and drain?) I'm thinking it may be the transmission pulley with bearing kit that you need (part # 12002213), but would like to hear more about the problem first.

@partselect I smelled the burn rubber as soon as the washer began to agitate. I noticed that after the second time using the washing machine the burnt rubber smell went away.... should I assume everything is ok now?

@partselect I have a Whirlpool washer Model LSQ9549PG1.It will spin at the end of the wash cycle and it agitates during the wash and rinse cycles.When it gets to the rinse/spin cycle,it will not spin,leaving the cloths saturated with water.If I reach down into the tub and turn the agitator counter clockwise and restart in the rinse/spin cycle it slowly starts to spin and I may have to repeat this 2 or 3 times depending on the load size to get the water out. Is this the coupler?

What's the common cause of them breaking. Thanks

This is EXACTLY how I figured out how to do this just now on my own . . . . except I used a roll of paper towels and ruined a good towel with black grindings from the old coupling and drying all the water that drained from the hoses I removed unnecessarily from the pump lol. I also got gear oil in the floor from inspecting the gearbox. Why do I always watch the how-to video AFTER I have spent 3 times as much time and energy as needed for the job? One day I will learn . . maybe

Hi Steve. Thank you for the informative video. I have the coupler parts flush but am still getting a slight smell of rubber burn. Is this typical? Will this dissipate? Will this cause motor damage? I've seen some prior posts but can't seem to remedy the rubber smell. Otherwise unit is working properly. Thank you for your time.

@partselect

10 жыл бұрын

I'll take a closer look into your question but will need the model number.

My son and I just finished doing mine and it works great. The only problem was a few minutes into the wash cycle we heard a loud screetch sound that only lasted about 2 seconds then about two minutes after that it smelled like burning rubber. So, we unplugged it and now I'm at a loss what to do. Any ideas?

I changed the direct drive coupling, but the basket is still not spinning consistently. Feeling the washer from the outside and listening to it during the spin cycle, you'd think the basket were spinning, but it definitely isn't. Suggestions?

I performed this repair, and after attaching the motor back to the transmission it was very difficult for the motor to rotate. When doing a test run there was an obvious electrical smell. When I disassembled everything again the motor was hot, smelled, and was difficult to turn. The motor rotated freely again when disconnected from the transmission. I test ran it while disconnected and it ran fine. Do you know what could be bogging down the motor once I connect it to the transmission?

Thanks, this was useful. I wonder why they make the coupling out of plastic. that is a guaranteed weak point. You'd think just one solid metal piece would be the way to go.

@partselect

10 жыл бұрын

Hi Matticus, thanks for the kind words. Hope the video helped you with your repair.

I installed the Direct Drive Motor Coupling, but now at end of spin cycle, the tub stops like someone jammed on the brake. This was just a test, so I did not let the machine spin to full speed. Would probably destroy the coupling if it was full speed. Any suggestions? Thanks.

If my washer drains and spins, but does not agitate, would doing this solve my problem?

I am having the same problem as Lori. My model # is LSR8433KQ1. It is a whirlpool. Tub is not spinning and water is not completely draining. Washer fills, agitator works, but as Lori desribes, no spinning or completely draining. Any help would be appreciated!

My washer is making a clicking sound when it spins. Does this mean it is a bad coupler?

dear partselect the washing machine still not end cycling even after I changed the coupler, the clutch, ordered thru part select. when the knob on my whirlpool reaches the rinse cycle it just sit idle without spinning but you could hear the motor still running, in order to have the end cycle working, I have to leave the machine for about half hour shut off and then come back and turn the knob to rinse and pull back the knob and voila it spins,I must do that every time when doing laundry help pls

Is it normal to have a oil or rubber smell after repair

I replaced the motor coupling but now smell burnt rubber. You don't show that you greased the motor coupling. Am I supposed to grease it after putting on the new one?

Whirlpool, Model#:LSQ7030LQ0, ser.#: CM3004987 Like I said after changing the clutch and the coupler it sitll doesn't do the end cycle, but the motor is still humming, it does spin only when I shut it off for half hour.

Hello your videos are a great help! I have a whirlpool washing machine model #LSQ9564MQ0. 2 days ago it stopped agitating and spinning. I looked up and followed your video instructions for replacing the motor coupler. I reassembled everything got it all hooked back up, and now it will do nothing but fill. No agitating, spinning, or draining. I checked the clutch it seems to still be tight. All it does now is hum, and fill. Any ideas what it might be? I have 6 children and really can't be without a washer. Lol Any help is greatly appreciated.

@Bond-James-Bond-

9 жыл бұрын

I'm having the same problem

I have a Kenmore Elite washer, Model # 110.22994

I know that this is a very old video and I doubt "Steve" or someone from PartSelect will answer. But I'll take a chance. As for this Direct Drive Motor Coupling.... would one only change it if it's actually broken or is there any reason to change it if the motor is turning and it is turning the transmission? I'm not sure if there's a reason to change it if it's not actually broken. Ideas?

@partselect

Жыл бұрын

The rubber part of the motor coupling is considered a normal wearing part of the washer same as a belt.. If the rubber part of the coupler is fitting snug onto both plastic ends of the coupler it is likely just fine. If there is movement then best to change it. If either of the plastic parts of the coupler are broken or cracked replace them. Newer motor couplers have metal inserts where they go on the motor and transmission shafts so you see fewer problems with them.

What is the best way to remove the new metal reinforced coupler from the transmission?

@partselect

9 жыл бұрын

Rmccall869 McCall What is your model number?

@rmccall869mccall4

9 жыл бұрын

***** Thanks for the reply, but I was able to get it off with a pair of pliers grasping the metal reinforcement ring and pulling and wiggeling. It took a while, but it finally came off.

I have now looked at about 15 whirlpool washer vids. None of them work for whirlpool wtw4815ew1 I want to live in this fantasy world where the cabinet just tilts toward you and comes off.

I installed the new Direct Drive Motor Coupling and it still wont spin.

I have a Whirlpool washer, model LSR6132HQ1. When I have a full load of clothes in the washer, the clothes do not get drawn to the bottom. The clothes stay on the top as the agitator goes back and forth. The tub spins normally. When I have a half load of clothes, the clothes get drawn to the bottom. The upper fins on the agitator are not as wide on this model, is this part of the problem. This model does not have the dogs in the agitator. Why aren't the clothes being drawn to the bottom by the agitator?

@partselect

7 жыл бұрын

We do not have access to a cross reference for agitators, but you should check with the manufacturer or your local dealer to find a dual action agitator that will fit your model.

it is a Kenmore 80 washing machine Model # 21894000. The part is 24.00 bucks but having to replace it a was 6 to 10 loads before it breaks again is breaking my bank too! PLEASE HELP...IF YOU CAN..THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!

@jimdavidson5208

5 жыл бұрын

You need to apply a SMALL dab of silicone grease to the brake drum. So when the machine stops, it doesn't slam down to 0 RPM instantly. Which strips out these cheapo plastic motor couplers.

What does this part actually do?

@partselect

10 жыл бұрын

Hi Sherrie, some top load washers use a direct drive motor coupling to transfer power from the motor to the transmission. The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking.

Make sure you use the real deal OEM Whirlpool part 285753A. Don't go on fleabay or Amazon and get some Chinese cheapo part. If so you will be replacing it a few months later. Plus those inferior parts will STRIP OUT your motor and transmission shafts. They strip and spin on the shafts wearing them out. So new parts don't grab like they should.

Thanks bailed me out

Thank you!