War and Poetry: big wall climbing in Greenland

Спорт

A three day ascent of War and Poetry (VI 5.12c), on the South West face of Ulamertorsuaq in the Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland.
We attempted to team free the line hauling a small pack with minimal bivy gear. Whilst we had to send up the emergency aiders a few times higher on the wall, we free climbed the vast majority of the wall, including most of the harder pitches.
This video details our experience in such a surreal and intimidating place!
Filmed and edited by Andrew Cherry and Stefan Morris.
Trip support from the BMC, the Andrew Croft Memorial Fund, the Jeremy Willson Charitable Trust, Berghaus, DMM, Battle Oats and Insitu Climbing Dunkeld.
With extra thanks to Andy Kirkpatrick for the advice and Niels Tækker Jepsen
#climbing #greenland
We're the BMC. Climb walls, rock, hills, ice or mountains? Join us. www.thebmc.co.uk/join

Пікірлер: 136

  • @christinegerard4974
    @christinegerard49746 ай бұрын

    Whaouh ! What a climb ! Superb …congratulations from France.

  • 5 жыл бұрын

    Fantastic movie thanks for shering !!

  • @jps226
    @jps2264 жыл бұрын

    This is one of my new favorite climbing shorts. So remote and great shots!

  • @AlexMotal
    @AlexMotal5 жыл бұрын

    Well done boys! Looks like an amazing route!

  • @mikelee285
    @mikelee2855 жыл бұрын

    Great film, looks like you had a fantastic trip!

  • @sston506
    @sston5065 жыл бұрын

    That was awesome! The veiw at night and the dawn when you summit was phenomenal!

  • @EverettWilson
    @EverettWilson5 жыл бұрын

    Well done! What a dreamland..

  • @MrSimplesimon007
    @MrSimplesimon0074 жыл бұрын

    You made it look so safe and quite easy, but in reality, I'd say its extremely difficult and requires Alot of skill and fitness, hats off to you, very entertaining viewing.

  • @davidroberts5577
    @davidroberts55774 жыл бұрын

    One Awesome Wall, great video and spectacular climbing 🕉️

  • @pierocus3261
    @pierocus32614 жыл бұрын

    Awesome video, awesome climbers

  • @visitgreenland
    @visitgreenland4 жыл бұрын

    Dear Team BMC, Lovely video you had made there. And the mountain you climbed is so amazing and beautiful. I just want to inform you lovely guys that this mountain is called Suikkassuaq. The Ulamertorsuaq is a some how spoon looking further in the fjord. This is not to ruin the whole video and naming. I just want to people know that it is the wrong name that is being used. So, I hope you understand. Very kindly, Aningaaq - Visit Greenland

  • @zachthompson5335

    @zachthompson5335

    4 жыл бұрын

    Huh? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ulamertorsuaq

  • @jestertoby596

    @jestertoby596

    4 жыл бұрын

    @@zachthompson5335 Wikipedia....

  • @TheEcoClimber

    @TheEcoClimber

    2 жыл бұрын

    Aningaaq, our Greenland guide from Nanortalik said otherwise. He called it Ulamertorsuaq. I guess there is some local / national misunderstanding on naming ( a common theme in many mountain regions ). My son was there age 14 & went up to the base of W&P. He also did some amazing fishing & an attempt on leading a 2 day First Ascent of a route on a neighbouring peak. Very grateful to some amazing Brits for taking him on the SDMC Greenland expedition back in 2016. I agree that it would be healthy to get this naming cleared up one way or other.

  • @richardprins9677
    @richardprins9677 Жыл бұрын

    Amazing skill and humbleness!!! Kudos to both of u ….🎉

  • @zu_1455
    @zu_14552 жыл бұрын

    Just climbed with Paul yesterday. Was great to listen to him recount this amazing route!

  • @tomhorton2211
    @tomhorton22115 жыл бұрын

    seriously cool stuff boys!

  • @grantbratrud4949
    @grantbratrud49495 жыл бұрын

    Nicely done, Gents! I happen to be rereading just now Maj. H.W.S. Tilman, CBE, DSO, MC and Bar, Ret. (R.I.P.), and whilst the Greenland flag makes me glow inside (what history!), the helicopter made me just a bit queasy. Still, in our modern age, with all the distractions, you climbed a big wall in Greenland!!

  • @oatmilktravel
    @oatmilktravel4 жыл бұрын

    Awesome I loved it

  • @thor1511
    @thor15115 жыл бұрын

    planning on climbing here next summer

  • @UKmarkj
    @UKmarkj5 жыл бұрын

    Nice one!

  • @EastWind785
    @EastWind785 Жыл бұрын

    Awe I loved it!!

  • @oursful
    @oursful3 жыл бұрын

    Magnifique !

  • @forwardobserver2048
    @forwardobserver20484 жыл бұрын

    Several charitable trusts.....superb climb.

  • @HerrExAndreyVlad
    @HerrExAndreyVlad4 жыл бұрын

    Супер! И восхождение, и фильм.

  • @enricopedroni102
    @enricopedroni1024 жыл бұрын

    Bravissimi!!!!

  • @meowingtonmat
    @meowingtonmat5 жыл бұрын

    cool video guys!

  • @rileystratton6232
    @rileystratton62325 жыл бұрын

    so rad!!!

  • @josephastier7421
    @josephastier74214 жыл бұрын

    7:07 That corner looks dreamy

  • @TheLazyWanderer
    @TheLazyWanderer3 жыл бұрын

    Amazing

  • @nukaakalund-mathussen1076
    @nukaakalund-mathussen10763 жыл бұрын

    You guys are so cool, i didnt know there really was walls like that in greenland, all the mountains in my home town have really low incline and there are few climbable walls🇬🇱

  • @philwaters9751
    @philwaters97514 жыл бұрын

    Outstanding... Good effort lads. Go to Baffin... Mount Killabuk .... You like that... ;-)

  • @xanderzaharis2606
    @xanderzaharis26065 жыл бұрын

    wow i really liked this one harry

  • @anguteeraqolsen2016
    @anguteeraqolsen20165 жыл бұрын

    Im so proud to say This is my Country🤙🏻

  • @martian4841

    @martian4841

    4 жыл бұрын

    It is incredibly beautiful!

  • @bastogne315

    @bastogne315

    4 жыл бұрын

    It's melting.

  • @steffenmorris3983
    @steffenmorris39833 жыл бұрын

    I like this Stefan Morris guy for some reason:P Great video BTW. Would love to one day try it at this wall!

  • @gabafilms3298
    @gabafilms32985 жыл бұрын

    That’s awesome :0

  • @mauriziocuppoloni4392
    @mauriziocuppoloni43924 жыл бұрын

    bel video, complimenti! e auguri.

  • @midi510
    @midi5104 жыл бұрын

    Nice job. I would have liked to hear a brief history on the who the first ascensionists were and when and what style.

  • @TheEcoClimber

    @TheEcoClimber

    2 жыл бұрын

    Just google the route & location. Stunning place. Loved climbing next to there with a great team in 2016

  • @TheEcoClimber

    @TheEcoClimber

    2 жыл бұрын

    Description FFA Bechtel-Bechtel-Lilygren-Mallamo-Model-Piana-Skinner 1998 This route was first climbed by a Swiss team in 1983, and named the Geneva Diedre. A large American team worked on it in 1998, freeing it and and renaming it "War and Poetry". Not sure the thinking of the FFA team, but to me the name reflects the climbing style of the route, though in reverse order. The lower half, through pitch 17, is mostly poetic and graceful face climbing, up an ever-steeping slab. The crux of this section is a series of 4 tricky pitches, 13-17. The next section is war. The massive right-facing dihedral that forms the upper half is unrelentingly physical, with steep flares and wide cracks. If you're not honed on this style, the OW pitches could feel severely sandbagged. Above the OW section, the beautiful Bowstring crack provides two pitches of difficult finger crack. Descend by rapping the route with two 60m ropes. The Black Heart ledge is a mediocre bivy for two, as is the p23 ledge. Up the middle of the massize west face of Ulamersortuaq, into the long RF dihedral. The route starts up some ledges shared with Moby Dick, and then traverse out right onto the face. Protection Suggest Change Double set of cams to #3, single 4-6. 16 QDs, stoppers and RPs.

  • @bonefishboards
    @bonefishboards2 жыл бұрын

    Spectacular. I'd be in aiders for the top half, at least.

  • @MsZbo
    @MsZbo4 жыл бұрын

    You are beatiful people, guys :)

  • @jurajstevonka9879
    @jurajstevonka98795 жыл бұрын

    Nice...

  • @BS2Dos
    @BS2Dos4 жыл бұрын

    Rockstars!!!

  • @moonti6820
    @moonti68205 жыл бұрын

    I'll go to greenland one day...

  • @jestertoby596

    @jestertoby596

    4 жыл бұрын

    Trust me you'll love it

  • @maddiekits

    @maddiekits

    2 жыл бұрын

    If you are looking for similar adventure big walls at a lower price tag in the meantime, may I recommend British Columbia 2000-4000ft just a short distance from a logging road all over the place.

  • @anderslangoks3813
    @anderslangoks38134 жыл бұрын

    Well, was there snow on top?

  • @shn3803
    @shn38034 жыл бұрын

    hrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr....too mad things to do. Definitely!

  • @tedtombling2770
    @tedtombling27704 жыл бұрын

    Modesty in bucket loads and yes, a very big tick I'd say. The words "The loneliness of the long-distance climbers" comes to mind.

  • @louloumagoo2512
    @louloumagoo2512 Жыл бұрын

    So much was left out: how they slept on the wall, how they prepared food... Inadequate.

  • @johnny6148
    @johnny61483 жыл бұрын

    nice done that too

  • @peterulicky6560
    @peterulicky65603 жыл бұрын

    Respekt !!!!

  • @user-ld3nu7ys5j
    @user-ld3nu7ys5j4 жыл бұрын

    Титаны! Парняги, молодцы!

  • @00lys00
    @00lys005 жыл бұрын

    Nice

  • @javierpavezv
    @javierpavezv Жыл бұрын

    mad lads

  • @antr7493
    @antr74933 жыл бұрын

    I barley eat chilli while sitting in front of my computer becasue I'm worried how my stomach will react.

  • @Dev-In-Denver123

    @Dev-In-Denver123

    Жыл бұрын

    That's a real sad life man. I only eat chili with good hot sauce and with chips 🤣

  • @justinwiens4658
    @justinwiens46585 жыл бұрын

    Greenland is stunningly beautiful... id put it up there, with Antarctica, as far as, being in the unknown with people. the world isnt informed enough of the beauty that actually exists in those places.

  • @2rfg949
    @2rfg9494 жыл бұрын

    wow

  • @atom1345
    @atom13455 жыл бұрын

    Look like you guys had a great time. I stared climbing a year ago and I've made it a goal in my life to climb big walls like this but I'm unsure about how to achieve this. I was wondering if you could give some advice about how to go from climbing walls in a gym to finally venturing out into long routes showcased in your video ?

  • @andrewcherry7976

    @andrewcherry7976

    5 жыл бұрын

    Ben Kalbfleisch I started climbing in a gym about 7 years ago and felt very much the same - great granite walls were what inspired me! Just follow through the process of gaining experience both outdoors and on a rope, be open to learning everything you can and don't rush! Climbing with some like minded people who share similar goals can really help too, although those sorts of partners can be tough to come by.

  • @z00ttt
    @z00ttt5 жыл бұрын

    anyone know the name of the song that keeps playing throughout the vid? great vid guys and awesome climb!

  • @bekmehhgsvys8950

    @bekmehhgsvys8950

    5 жыл бұрын

    z00ttt had by lil pump

  • @Jefferson-ly5qe

    @Jefferson-ly5qe

    5 жыл бұрын

    black scientology feat. mc hoyabembe

  • @nantzstein3311
    @nantzstein33115 жыл бұрын

    Is this the group who gopro filmed their climbing under the tilted peek?

  • @mosin9105
    @mosin91052 жыл бұрын

    Gnar!

  • @alexsika7160
    @alexsika71605 жыл бұрын

    Jealous, nothing like going on a grand adventure with your bros.

  • @tyr678
    @tyr6784 жыл бұрын

    How did you sleep in the nights?

  • @sugandanataatmaja3331
    @sugandanataatmaja33313 жыл бұрын

    Masya Allah Very nice place Safety First

  • @tyhamsher134
    @tyhamsher1344 жыл бұрын

    I would be terrified to sleep on a small little edge

  • @VegasCyclingFreak
    @VegasCyclingFreak5 жыл бұрын

    What is the elevation of the summit? Looks pretty high...

  • @andrewcherry7976

    @andrewcherry7976

    5 жыл бұрын

    Vegas Cycling Freak - it's just shy of 2000 metres! Most of the landscape shots in the video are taken from sea level (well Fjord level).

  • @VegasCyclingFreak

    @VegasCyclingFreak

    5 жыл бұрын

    Oh that's not nearly as high as I thought. But I suppose it's the highest thing around for many miles, so that makes it seem higher than that when you can see things so far away.

  • @andrewcherry7976

    @andrewcherry7976

    5 жыл бұрын

    There's actually a taller formation in the next valley along, but it isn't nearly as impressive as Ulamertorsuaq (in my opinion at least). Nothing there is super high in altitude, which is great for climbing really as you don't need to acclimatise!

  • @phutton88
    @phutton885 жыл бұрын

    The best weight loss program, in my opinion. For those that wanna just eat better, but still sit around on the couch, here ya go!

  • @TheEcoClimber

    @TheEcoClimber

    2 жыл бұрын

    yes & no .... We got fat on the Salmon ( Atlantic Char ) there in the Fjord. :) :)

  • @inov-8polska190
    @inov-8polska1904 жыл бұрын

    1:45 - Fundacja Wspierania Alpinizmu Polskiego :-) - a sticker on a barrel :-D

  • @matt2522
    @matt2522 Жыл бұрын

    How are they climbing with fingerless gloves? I thought it was frigid cold there

  • @drugsdelaney2907
    @drugsdelaney29073 ай бұрын

    Blame it on the boogie!

  • @MarcelloRossi87
    @MarcelloRossi875 жыл бұрын

    Name of the song in the back?

  • @andrewcherry7976

    @andrewcherry7976

    5 жыл бұрын

    Hiya, The song is Elephant in the Room by Jonathan Lloyd. Purchased from a royalty free music site :)

  • @MarcelloRossi87

    @MarcelloRossi87

    5 жыл бұрын

    Many thanks!!

  • @bizzybugseverywhere7801
    @bizzybugseverywhere78013 жыл бұрын

    could of at least paraglided down , i mean come on . awsome effort , super vid

  • @seancusack4926
    @seancusack49263 жыл бұрын

    Where did they sleep?

  • @starcloud4959
    @starcloud49593 жыл бұрын

    How high is the top?

  • @scottweldon8212
    @scottweldon82123 жыл бұрын

    These guys and this production style is cool? If true, I'm totally lost

  • @gorangaber8094
    @gorangaber80945 жыл бұрын

    great video! also looking for the song if anyone has any ideas.. thanks!

  • @andrewcherry7976

    @andrewcherry7976

    5 жыл бұрын

    Hiya, The song is Elephant in the Room by Jonathan Lloyd. Purchased from a royalty free music site :)

  • @MrHollingbury

    @MrHollingbury

    5 жыл бұрын

    My man!

  • @gorangaber8094

    @gorangaber8094

    5 жыл бұрын

    Thanks a lot brother - putting it on repeat as we speak : )

  • @MrStuartp
    @MrStuartp4 жыл бұрын

    I just don't understand why people have down voted this vid? It's like what's your problem? Some guys went climbing, what's so bad about that?

  • @hanshermes1137

    @hanshermes1137

    4 жыл бұрын

    Maybe that their (cool but actually senseless) travelling causes lots of emissions. Another motivation jealousy could be.

  • @ozandogrultan
    @ozandogrultan4 жыл бұрын

    Does anyone know the last track of the video?

  • @Anggeloukos

    @Anggeloukos

    4 жыл бұрын

    I've been searching for it too. Did you by any means find it?

  • @ozandogrultan

    @ozandogrultan

    4 жыл бұрын

    @@Anggeloukos It was in the description of the video all along apparently:) Jonathan Lloyd - Elephant In The Room

  • @Anggeloukos

    @Anggeloukos

    4 жыл бұрын

    @@ozandogrultan Thanks a lot!

  • @russellking9762
    @russellking97623 жыл бұрын

    ever been to Monument Valley ?

  • @egyptianamericanpatriot1531
    @egyptianamericanpatriot15315 жыл бұрын

    How did they sleep? How can they set up a tent or sleeping bags on a flat rock?

  • @johanleclerc8899

    @johanleclerc8899

    5 жыл бұрын

    Egyptian American Patriot its called a paraledge. Pretty much a platform hanging from the wall with a tent on top. It's tiny tho.

  • @egyptianamericanpatriot1531

    @egyptianamericanpatriot1531

    5 жыл бұрын

    Johan Leclerc Thanks bro. These guys are hardcore

  • @tyty17172

    @tyty17172

    5 жыл бұрын

    Don't mean to be that guy but it's called a "Port-A-ledge"

  • @johanleclerc8899

    @johanleclerc8899

    5 жыл бұрын

    @@tyty17172 you are right :)

  • @mankokennewick5802
    @mankokennewick58024 жыл бұрын

    Big time

  • @dandamanman2200
    @dandamanman22005 жыл бұрын

    So what to you do if you gotta go poopy

  • @michaelfrance7212

    @michaelfrance7212

    5 жыл бұрын

    In Greenland, you can just shit over the side of the port-a-ledge. On El Cap they gotta shit in bags. lol

  • @ingeenWL
    @ingeenWL5 жыл бұрын

    Skąd mają beczki FUNDACJI WSPIERANIA ALPINIZMU POLSKIEGO im. KUKUCZKI ?

  • @stefanmorris729

    @stefanmorris729

    5 жыл бұрын

    pożyczyliśmy je od biura turystycznego w Nanortalik

  • @CanIbeWithThee
    @CanIbeWithThee5 жыл бұрын

    How do they shit on the portaledge? If they need to that is

  • @maddiekits

    @maddiekits

    2 жыл бұрын

    Poo baggies and containers are the typical method.

  • 3 жыл бұрын

    And I thought Troutdale Pinnacle was hard......

  • @mankokennewick5802
    @mankokennewick58024 жыл бұрын

    Wing suit

  • @whoopwhoop1207
    @whoopwhoop12075 жыл бұрын

    I climbed it 6 years years ago

  • @swim2kill

    @swim2kill

    5 жыл бұрын

    Awesome man. How tall is the wall? I missed that bit

  • @elfspicer
    @elfspicer5 жыл бұрын

    Did I see bolts at the top?

  • @eldiagrama
    @eldiagrama5 жыл бұрын

    Sweeet

  • @johnevans6399
    @johnevans63993 жыл бұрын

    I reckon me and my mates would have done it in a day if we weren't all fat and lazy! Same as we could be Messi or Ronaldo,easy. Well done chaps.😉

  • @markegstad7258
    @markegstad72583 жыл бұрын

    A little more video from the top would of been nice. Otherwise nice climb.

  • @dilldowschwagginz2674
    @dilldowschwagginz26744 жыл бұрын

    This may be a dumb question (which I hate) but who installed the climbing anchors there and how did they do it? Seems like a very inaccessible piece of granite

  • @TheEcoClimber

    @TheEcoClimber

    2 жыл бұрын

    Hand drilling. 15 mins to 45 mins a hole

  • @cmetube
    @cmetube5 жыл бұрын

    There will be plenty more fjords to climb when every bit of that snow in Greenland melts away soon

  • @KamhamVloger
    @KamhamVloger5 жыл бұрын

    Guys is not essayist

  • @NeverRubARhubarb
    @NeverRubARhubarb10 ай бұрын

    An incredible achievement. Unfortunately the video just does not do it justice. At all.

  • @user-zm2rl4zv5x
    @user-zm2rl4zv5x5 жыл бұрын

    쫘식들 먼지다.♡♡

  • @HourRomanticist
    @HourRomanticist3 жыл бұрын

    Fun fact: That iceberg we see in the beginning of the video is actually Iceland.

  • @Hephasto
    @Hephasto3 жыл бұрын

    Я бы залез туда за пару часов

  • @philippechevereau9818
    @philippechevereau98184 жыл бұрын

    What an amazing climb... but it SUCKS Tonsequenzen you burning so much fossil energy for you to enjoy nature! I really SUCKS!

  • @cubensispleez5422
    @cubensispleez54225 жыл бұрын

    Dope climb. Audio sucks lol

  • @biteme4573
    @biteme45735 жыл бұрын

    So ... when camping on a cliff... Does it really matter who's below when ya gota shit?? Lmao.

  • @ofrinokrian4645
    @ofrinokrian46455 жыл бұрын

    fake el capitan :)

  • @beethovensg
    @beethovensg4 жыл бұрын

    Where do you shit?

  • @bretthannan5127
    @bretthannan51273 жыл бұрын

    Dont get me wrong,but y,do you people,do these things,when no one makes you,and then you moan about it???

  • @maddiekits

    @maddiekits

    2 жыл бұрын

    You can't really turn off the suffering aspect lol it hurts a lot, and it's good to let it out naturally.

Келесі