Walking the Hidden River Effra | Lost Rivers of London (4K)
A walk following the River Effra - one of the lost rivers of London. Please subscribe for regular videos: bit.ly/1EJjIB8
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Our walk along the hidden River Effra starts in Westow Park, Crystal Palace and heads through Upper Norwood to West Norwood Cemetery then onwards through Dulwich, passing near Herne Hill Velodrome, and then along the road beside Brockwell Park. The lost river takes us through the centre of Brixton to Brixton Road and onwards to the Oval. The final stretch of the river becomes the Vauxhall Creek where it makes its confluence with the Thames at St George's Wharf. Part of the Lost Rivers of London series that includes the Fleet, Tyburn, Walbrook, Black Ditch, Hackney Brook, Moselle, Philley Brook, Highams Hill Brook, Cran Brook, Neckinger, and the Peck.
Music:
A Gentle Invitation - Dawn, Dawn, Dawn
A Quiet Storm - Lama House
Ashkira - Place of Light (432 Hz) - 369
Elusive Dream - At The End Of Times, Nothing
Fairy Prion - Dust Follows
Kindred Spirits - Howard Harper-Barnes
Courtesy of Epidemic Sound
Maps:
Open Street Map “© OpenStreetMap contributors” using data available under the Open Database Licence
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Пікірлер: 285
Watching from USA. State of East Tennessee. Enjoy your walks you have enlightened me to a true feel of England. Thank you Sir for your passionate teachings. Love your KZread channel. 🌿🌾🌲🍁
@waynemarvin5661
Жыл бұрын
East Tennessee isn't a state.
@DennisfromBoston021
Жыл бұрын
Hi watching here from Boston, MA this is a great show isn’t it
I used to live in Brixton, Crystal Palace and West Norwood and the route of the Effra was a natural commute route into central London for me. I always wonder what those tall posts were for. While I lived in West Norwood there were issues with subsidence in the valley which people said was due to the Effra and the river "burst its banks" on one occasion causing flooding where you said, at the bottom of Auckland Hill. In the mid 2000s there was also such serious flooding along Dulwich Road and Burbage Road as surface rain water poured out of Brockwell Park looking for the river and the Effra overflowed out of Belair Park that pavements, traffic islands, even a bridge underpass disappeared under water. I think the building at 10:00 was the Wood Vale Children's Home, at least during the 1960s when my mum trained there. I believe the reason South London is appealing to some is that nature is closer to the surface. Geographic and ecological markers are more identifiable. Living in the Norwood valley could almost be tranquil at times.
Half Moon Lane has always had terrible trouble with flooding. When I lived in the area Railton Road was open to travel as part of the one-way system and you could catch a bus from outside Herne Hill station. I used to live on Effra Road and was in Brockwell Park recently, there is a lovely secret walled garden there. I was just typing about the helicopter when you mentioned it, I was work in news at the time and was sent down to film on a rather misty morning. Another great walk.
Another epic lost river walk, John! I used to work next to MI6 and would often walk along that stretch of the river during my lunch break. I'm pretty certain that the confluence is marked by a large, wrought iron gate that juts out just below MI6, next to Vauxhall Bridge. It can be seen from the beach when the tide is out.
@highpath4776
2 жыл бұрын
I thought the outflow was just to the west of Vauxhall Bridge - visible from the North Bank walkway
@waynehicks2035
2 жыл бұрын
@@highpath4776 No, it's on the eastern side of the bridge.
@highpath4776
2 жыл бұрын
@@waynehicks2035 Maybe I am thinking of the outlet on Albert Embankment, west of Lambeth Bridge - about 300 yards East of the MI6 building ? just past the small pier.
@martinmaillardet6994
2 жыл бұрын
Yes your quite right, there is actually a picture of the gate on the Wiki page about the Effra
@bakerloobadboy
2 жыл бұрын
@@highpath4776 Could you be thinking of the boat slip way at the junction of Black Prince Road
Fantastic as always . John ,thankyou . I used to be a landscape gardener in south London,based on Spa Hill, Upper Norwood . I had a job once of recreating a garden in Burbage rd and there was an old pond ,concrete , that was to be replaced by a better and more water retaining butyl lined pool . When we drained the old pond , and as usual at the bottom was much black oozy sludge .... the amazing suprise to me and my mate was an eel we found amongst that slimey ooze ! ! We managed to capture it unharmed ,it was about 3ft long ,and kept it and enough water , oozy sediment and water plants in an old water butt till the new pool was created, filled and naturalised with saved original pond water and slime . So there you go ! ...the story of the 'Eels of the Effra ' (regardlessof any pollution obviously present ) continued at least as far as the late 90s when I was actively landscaping all around south london ,and in particular the Dulwich area . So thrilled , by the way, that finally you 'get ' sarrff Lundun ! 😊😊😊👍.It is a fine and far greener land . My old home on Spa Hill ,once called 'Leatherbottle Lane' , also has much history to explore !but I am now happily retired, enjoying your jaunts and living excitedly in a much more vast landscape .... Bodmin Moor ! ! All the best ! And more on south london would be much appreciated 👍😊 ....Stuart Dow .
Hi, John! I've just discovered your channel and subscribed for what I know will be hours of enjoyment. I was born in England in 1931 and lived in Swanscombe until 1960 and emigrated to New Zealand in 1962. The changes made during the last few years makes all the parts of London I knew unrecognisable. It is interesting that you are creating videos of the lost rivers of London. I am an avid reader, mostly of crime novels, and one of the authors on my favourite list is Nicci French (a collaboration between a married couple, Nicci Gerrard and Sean French) Many of the hidden rivers of London feature in their books. They name: Stamford Brook, Beverley Brook, River Wandle, River Falcon, River Effra, River Peck, River Neckringer, Earl's Sluice, River Lea, Wall Brook, River Tyburn, River Westbourne, Counter's Creek, and River Fleet. Is this the total number, or do you know of more?
I lived right at the top of Gipsy hill for a few years. It's dead in line with St Pauls. The chain of hills from One tree hill to Streatham common in which all the springs that fed the Effra rise, was l think the earliest settled area of the Thames valley overlooking London after the last ice age. William Blake had his first visions of angels in the trees of One Tree hill when he was eight years old.
I read the first Ben Aaronovitch , novel , Rivers of London and couldn't stop until I'd read them all . The River Gods are real , honour the River Gods . Another excellent walk John
Just wanted to credit the great London artist David Western, whose wonderful hand-drawn maps and illustrations accompany and enrich the 'River Effra' book. He's a regular where I work and a lovely gent. John, you might also be interested in the other London books they collaborated on: 'Death on the Brighton Road' and 'The Heathwall, Battersea's Buried River', which David was kind enough to pass on to me.
Great film. My daughter had a flat on the Glazebrook Estate off Croxted Road and before the estate was built there was a pond on the site which was fed by the Effra. Through the estate along the railway line was a tree lined walk. This was the route from the station taken by P.G.Wodehouse when going to see cricket matches at the college. He grew up in a road near Glazebrook. Nearby is the very interesting Belair Park that we walked through to get to the gallery and here is a canal/lake formed by stopping the waters of the Effra. You walked so near to the Effra above ground. In a mad time your films are a balm, thank you, David.
Walked this one today and highly enjoyable it was, though a bit peeved that I missed the stink pipes, the plaque's and the Georgian letterbox! If only I'd known about Jon Newman's book before I set off, so that's on my London books to get list!..Great video again John, it would be great if I ever bumped into you on a walk one day...all the best.
The Relaince Arcade's Egyptian entrance and other architectural gems made this walk for me. Thank you for including them, John.
@bakerloobadboy
2 жыл бұрын
Another great example of this type of lost arcade is the Himalaya Palace at Southall. A beautiful building that has refused to be modernised
@quickclipsbyjmj
2 жыл бұрын
@John Joolz of Joolz Guides visited Peckham Rye. Some beautiful art deco architecture let go to wrack and ruin.
I had to attend a meeting in London today, amidst all the chaos of the strike which closed down most of the London Underground. There was a hidden blessing, however, in that the series of events covering my journey back to Marylebone Station saw me taking a black cab whose driver is also a fan of this channel. Small world, or a sign of how deservedly well known and respected John Rogers is? We swapped thoughts on the various walks and which we had enjoyed watching the most. The cabbie hadn’t seen this particular episode, but I am sure he will enjoy it and if he reads this post; thanks once again for the chat.
Thank you so much for this video. I made a comment on the Gants Hill video uploaded yesterday (3 December 2023) and mentioned this video. Here's part of a song lyric by my former songwriting partner, composed just after the Brixton riot of 1985. We were living in Brixton on Effra Road when the second riots erupted. It was my birthday weekend, and therefore one I will never forget. I have not been back but believe the terrace of houses we were living in has since been demolished, more's the pity. Effra Green on the riverbanks the tarmac grows Where there used to be a river now there’s Effra Road People sail on the tide of 9 to 5 Sirens scream with the adrenaline that keeps our city alive Oh they say we’re torn by black and white But if you set their river on fire the world shrinks back in fright
@JohnRogersWalks
6 ай бұрын
Thanks for sharing that Sky
@skyboswell
6 ай бұрын
@@JohnRogersWalks Just wish I could remember the lyrics of verse two. :)
At 42:03 I saw this street. I have to say (yes I do) that I found it really lovely. I don't know what it is but I feel I would be happy to live on it. Thanks for this John, I so enjoy your video's. Bye the bye you wife is gorgeous. Cheers from locked up and locked down Canada.
Thank you for the way you can bring to life areas that many of us would ignore..excellent enthusiasm!
Excellent! Your best yet! From New Jersey, USA.
Another great walk! I just watched this video with my Nan. She was born and raised in West Norwood and went to school down Gypsy Road. She said she used to run at Herne Hill athletics track, but I don't think that's the same as the velodrome. But her Uncles used to work at West Norwood Cemetary. She said it was a nice walk down memory lane for her. She turned 96 last Friday 😃
Lovely video! The metal flap that you made a stab about isn't the outlet. If you had continued past the Wharf pier you would have found it. It's a couple of feet across and labelled Effra at street level, wording facing the river. Not sure if the street face of the sign also labels it, I've only ever seen the sign from the foreshore.
I'm only 2 minutes in, and already I can tell this is gonna be a zinger! John your energy, production, editing, commentary it's all jumping out at me. This is definitely gonna be worth the wait. Right, I'm gonna stop commenting and blummin' get on with watching this masterpiece...
@JohnRogersWalks
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Steve - hope you enjoyed it
@Steveoaudioandstuff
2 жыл бұрын
@@JohnRogersWalks It was one of the best John. 👍
I worked for a while - between 2008 and 2015 - in a building in Half Moon Lane (it's now a free school) and the basement was regularly flooded by the Effra or one of its tributaries. In the wet months the caretaker was always pumping water out of the nether depths. There was a manhole cover in the basement that you could look down into which was meters deep full of water.
@JohnRogersWalks
2 жыл бұрын
Love stories like that Carl
I just saw a part of my history .. my grandmother lived on Gipsy Road when she moved to London from Somerset to train as a nurse (at that hospital?) that’s why I love watching your videos. You never know what you’re going to see. Thanks John! And the Herne Hill velodrome .. my grandfather was a tandem cyclist so now I wonder if he cycled there. Thanks again!
Nice to see more of South London. Always enjoyable, thanks for sharing.
John, have you ever considered a canals themed video(s) ? So much history and great walking.
Thank you for another great walk! Have you ever read Christopher Fowler's The Water Room? He pays homage to the lost rivers of London in it. Delightfully quirky book.
Great work, yet again sir. The Effra discharges into the Thames slightly further downstream, between Charity Towers and the MI6 building. There's quite an obvious outlet there and if you visit at the right time it smells pretty unpleasant.
There is something Druidic about you John. When you talk about rivers I sense a kind of worship in your voice.
@JohnRogersWalks
2 жыл бұрын
That’s so kind of you Diana - deeply flattered
@2Sugarbears
2 жыл бұрын
@@JohnRogersWalks I do hope so, it certainly was not ment as an insult.
Yes, a cracking river walk that made a great job of connecting so many familiar places from my South London days.
Wow, what a packed episode! You mention the Magnificent 7 Cemeterys, i was wondering why the City of London cemetery at Forest Gate didn't make the list. I worked in and around Brixton in 1970 and remember a record store called Desmonds Hip City....what became of it?
@highpath4776
2 жыл бұрын
I think its because the 7 cemeteries were private ones originally, the City Of London a public one. (not specifically the use of Cemetery rather than Graveyard (which is normally reserved for burial plots attached to a Church).
Fantastic vid as always and lovely that you have dropped into my area for the start of your walk. My theory was that the source of the River Effra started at someone’s back garden on College Green, adjacent to Westow Park. Made a short vid. ‘Finding the source of the River Effra’. The first RE plaque can be found between the VF convent walls and the apartment’s near the corner of Norwood Park and Elder Road.
An amazing walk John, but that was some walk, must be one of your longest river walks so far. Thanks.
Tanken for another great walk. 51 days until I go to London again.
Love your videos. Not sure what I enjoy most, your knowledge or your enthusiasm. I am from west London and never really ventured south of the wet stuff, clearly I missed quite a bit. Thank you.
Think about South London, it effectively sits within the main kink of the Thames (all Roads lead to Elephant and Castle). and does not have the mass of traffic trying to hit it all over from the Chiltern Hills/ Northern Hills/Essex Gaps. The Thames is still relatively narrow compared to one it passes the Greenwich Peninsular and out to the wide estuary beyond the Thames Barrier, this gives South London, to the North of the Norwood Hills a quite compact feel , that was developed for housing somewhat differently on its Land Holdings as the larger mansions and holdings were sold off. The Wedge of London Loosely within the A3/A23.A24.A20/A2 forms a triangle with the Pointy bit at Southwark. It is also quite temperate and warm , as the waters of the Thames moderate temperatures, and the low hills hold in heat. To the South of the first line of hills as we head to the second set - the ridge from Epsom/Croydon/ inc Shirley and Addington/ Bromley the built and natural landscape changes and it starts to get colder until the final run of hills forming the North Downs and the Frost hollows of Suburban Kent come into play. The enclosed rivers - unlike The Brent and the Lea also give a difference in how the landscape is drained, also North London was the final edge of the ice age ice glacier shove across England. The whole vibe is different to North London, though you could compare Brixton and Stoke Newington or Tooting and Willesden. but overall South London seems to work with the rising and setting sun, North London seems to work against it and I think that makes the difference. ( though planned local authority changes to the likes of Central Hill estates and others seem to defy the nature of the area that can only be felt rather than quantified and expressed written down - its why the Effra ( and Ravensborne/Wandle/Hogsmill) does invoke a Celticness that the North London Rivers dont have. I am from South London originally, yet feel most at home in that SW london postcode oddity that lies North of the Thames - the Fulham into Hammersmith and Shepherds Bush area (Sands End) despite never living there!)
Been to two funerals at Norwood. RIP Raver Drew and Richie Blood.
@waynejacksonofficial
2 жыл бұрын
Aye.
Thank you so much, John. I'd rank this as one of your very best walks. Well worth the wait.
@JohnRogersWalks
2 жыл бұрын
Cheers Gary
Fantastic to see you down our way - glad you enjoyed it. Come back and walk the rivers Wandle and Graveney. A lot of the Wandle is still visible, not so much of the Graveney...
@jeremybuck1818
2 жыл бұрын
I think John has walked the Wandle?
@johnstilljohn3181
2 жыл бұрын
@@jeremybuck1818 Oops - I'll have to look back through the archives for that one...
Just the ticket after all the grim news this weekend. Good one John.
@JohnRogersWalks
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Jay
As ever an interesting insight into our history now increasingly forgotten. I went through a period a few moons ago researching the etymology of certain words and the word Herne got to me. Apparently it's ancient Celtic/early Saxon and means to describe a certain type of person and how they live. A "Herne" is someone who chooses to live apart from an established community and by bends in rivers. The stem of the word remaining through time into the word Hermit.
Hi just watched the Effa Vlog....you may have solved a little problem for me. My grandparents and parents are buried at West Norwood cemetery and back in the 50s my mother used to take me , as a young child, to tend the graves. You could "hire" a watering can at the gatehouse and near by our plots there were 2 metal grids that you could lift and put the bucket down to get water. I often wondered if they were wells but now realise that it must have been the water of the Effra as it was in the area that you described. I don't suppose they are still in use now. Thank you for your wonderful walks.
I thought yesterday was Sunday and was wondering, "where's the John Rogers video?--hope he's ok!" He's ok, folks! Another wonderful video! Greetings from Oakland, CA
@JohnRogersWalks
2 жыл бұрын
Hi there in Oakland
another river walk - these are just tremendous, john!
another great vlog , thanks.
Thanks John.
Thank you John. Watching now. My Sunday evening treat!
@AliB102
2 жыл бұрын
@velicia 12 Reported this bot.
@MsCheesemonster13
2 жыл бұрын
@@AliB102 Me too
Bonnington Square was an illegal squat at some point a few years back, but the squatters looked after the place, making a lovely little community garden and opening a cafe. They may have run a shop too… can’t remember. Anyway, they were never evicted because they truly looked after the place. I believe the cafe may well still be operating there. This walk had some old memories for me John. Thanks :)
Thanks for video John!
Way to go John, Keep up the good work!
Another great walk John! thankyou!
Always a pleasure, thank you for sharing. Cheers!
@JohnRogersWalks
2 жыл бұрын
Cheers Jim
Yet another gem. Thanks JR.
Love these extra long episodes :)
As a Peckham born lad, we were made to run around Brockwell Park for Friday games at school. It was a very unpleasant end to the week. Another great walk John, thank you
Thanks for going South of the River John. 😊😊😊 Knew Effra Rd as a child, but never knew about the buried river.
Thanks John, Great to see you Back, Keep Well and Safe !!
@JohnRogersWalks
2 жыл бұрын
Cheers Dave
Fantastic walk, as always. Thank you for taking us with you.
Superb...👍.
Oh my Goddess (River) that was excellent 👌. I do love it when you feature South of the river, and this walk especially thrilled me, taking me back to our family Manors of Dulwich, Camberwell and Brixton. My beloved Aunty and Uncle lived in Mervan Rd. I now live in the North now, England, not of the river. Once again thanks so much 🙏 x Ps, love the Rivers of London series too.
What a colorful, fascinating journey on a bright and beautiful day. You are right - this one was an epic. Well done!
I'm the 700th like 👍!! Thanks for sharing your absolutely great content! History of London is vast and the way you share it is one of a kind imo. Thank you! Best of luck m8!
@JohnRogersWalks
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks so much Oliver
Brilliant lost river walk thanks John
What a beautiful lyrical walk. Thank you John.
@JohnRogersWalks
2 жыл бұрын
My pleasure Esther - thanks for watching
You make the ordinary and everyday epic Thanks
@JohnRogersWalks
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks John
Just discovered you, what a great walk. The confluence of Effra and Thames is other side to where you were looking, in front of MI6. in the Old Days we could walk right down onto the Riverside. Many a ritual honouring the Rivers were carried out there. Thanks for the memories
I used to love tracking lost canals back in the 70s. So exciting when I found a disused lock hidden in the undergrowth. I did the way and Arun canal through to Portsmouth, only got as far as midhurst taking pictures and putting on a little display in the local libraries. The Adur from Shoreham and the Oose from Lewes. Another great video John, cheers buddy
@2H80vids
2 жыл бұрын
You might be interested in Paul and Rebecca Whitewick's channel; they've covered the canals in the South, along with disused railways. The link, if it let's me , is kzread.info
Perfect as usual.
Great walk. Thank you
Thank you for taking us on such a fantastic walk
@JohnRogersWalks
2 жыл бұрын
My pleasure David
Nice one John. 👍
Brilliant walk John, loved it. 👍 so much gorgeous scenery. This was one of my best lost river walks.
Oh, yeah. Beautiful! Taking notes for an extended stay in London coming up in a few months. Much thanks from Oklahoma, USA.
Thanks John that was a good one
Excellent walk john, one of your best to date.
@JohnRogersWalks
2 жыл бұрын
Cheers Christo
Great video 👍🏻enjoyed seeing places where I grew up.
Loved this video I live next to Norwood park was great seeing my hometown in one of your videos Your the boss!
@JohnRogersWalks
Жыл бұрын
Thanks very much Thomas
@thomasmcquade4332
Жыл бұрын
No worries! you really bring things to life your truly a great story teller
Brilliant walk - thank you.
Thanks John, One of your best for sure - Cheers mate...
Your excitement at the start of the walk was captivating.i just had to stay with you on this walk brilliant John..loads of interesting places to see and learn from. One of your best yet... look forward to the next one ..were ever that my be.......
Thoroughly enjoyable and fascinating. Thank you!
Hi John. The confluence of the Effra with the Thames, is immediately to the other side of Vauxhall bridge from where you finished, emerging from under the MI6 building. It can be seen from the bridge and is clearly marked with the words River Effra above the large metal sluice gate.
Aaah good to see the Half Moon pub - it was my local for many years. My friends and I used to drink in the snug bar. Wonderful pub.
Great work here John, as always, and you had ideal weather by the looks of it.
As always... fantastic... A bit of calm in these crazy times... thanks so much for doing what you do...
A fabulous walk, thank you John.
Strange synchronicity! Watching this video on a Sunday afternoon after the night our local pub, ‘The Ship’ in Croydon held a memorial gathering for it’s legendary rock DJ, Matt Atwell Wood. Who was killed in the Helicopter crash in Vauxhall. Jan 2013 while walking to work through the Vauxhall Streets. Absolutely love your videos John. Have started walking the London Loop clockwise. 75% done and hoping that coincidence will have me see you coming the other way some day. Stranger things have happened.
@scottb32a
Жыл бұрын
wow , mad coincidence ! i cycled past about 20 minutes after it happened
Hi John Another brilliant and interesting walk with you Thanks again 👍
I love watching your videos. Very informative and very relaxing.
Loved that walk - what a diverse one it was!
Thanks for another cracking vlog love how you get so happy about it and your passion shines through and all the interesting historical things to see
What an amazing walk! Thanks for sharing it with us!
Fantastic John. I was bought up in the area around Brixton/ South London area. I really enjoy the history of London, and enjoy the way you guide us through it as a story teller. We'll done. Please do more South London in the future.
I really enjoy your documentations about waters/lost waters - for long term, I thought I´m the only one doing that stuff....
Thank again John. A great walk. Looking forward to the next one. Best wishes.
What a great journey J, thank you so much.
Yes, that was a cracking walk, John, very much enjoyed.
@JohnRogersWalks
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Theo
I've watched so many of your walks,and learnt so much of my beloved London and beyond-thank you so much for your hard work,footfall and application.I hope I'll regain my va va voom,and start exploring again!
fanatically interesting. a joy to view. thank you very much.
I would have loved to have gone inside some of those pubs, great stuff, thanks John.
Fascinating walk, and your enthusiasm is contagious.
Very enjoyable, thank you. Hope you had a nice cold beer afterwards!