where to download those panel clips?

@hobbyistnotes

8 ай бұрын

Ohhh... I totally forgot to add links to those. I have updated the description take a loot there are 2 versions of panel clips.

@htw007

8 ай бұрын

@@hobbyistnotes Thank you.

What pins did you connect the TAP to on the M8P? I have a 2piece HartK PCB (xame in my 2.4 kit along with Fystec Spyder v3) and now have the headache of working out where to rewire everything.

@hobbyistnotes

7 ай бұрын

I am running BIGTREETECH EBB SB2209 Can board on the toolhead it has header that can handle 5v. Kind of weird now watching the video I haven't included any details on how I actually wired it...

Great video, thank you! What mod is on your Stealthburner with the display pls?

@hobbyistnotes

Ай бұрын

BTT Knomi, I have several videos about it on my channel.

Where did you get the longer cable for the TFT? The one that came with my screen is very short.

@hobbyistnotes

7 ай бұрын

Honestly, I am not really sure if it came with the screen or not as I have a lot of parts around and realistically I could mix stuff up before assembly or during the process. The only guess I have is that mine BIGTREETECH TFT35 SPI V2.1 could come with longer cable based on version of the screen but I could be wrong as well.

Good luck with the TAP

@hobbyistnotes

9 ай бұрын

Thanks.

the ribbon cable which comes woth the TFT35 SPI is very short. How did you manage to get the screen that far from the baord ? did you replace the cable ?

@hobbyistnotes

2 ай бұрын

Honestly, I am not really sure if this cable came with the screen as I have a lot of parts around and realistically I could mix stuff up before assembly or during the process. Long time ago I have bought cheap RPI cameras which had similar but longer cables and may be I have used one of those.

ducks ducks ducks!!! :)

@hobbyistnotes

9 ай бұрын

🦆

can you link to the .stls for the TFT?

@hobbyistnotes

3 ай бұрын

I can't find original stls that was used in this video but I think it was from this guy: www.printables.com/@Ken226

what sparkly filament was used for the tft housing ?

@hobbyistnotes

7 ай бұрын

Sparta Sparkle ABS+ Green Candy and Obsidian Black.

@sanketss84

7 ай бұрын

@@hobbyistnotesthanks for sharing. I am learning to build a voron trident and your notes and videos on the same are a real help please keep sharing them. subbed. :)

@hobbyistnotes

7 ай бұрын

​@@sanketss84 Thanks. Good luck building the printer. I really recommend Sparta's ABS+ it's one of the easiest ABS to print I have tried and I tried most popular brands among Voron Community. I don't know if it's due to sparkle but it sticks so well sometimes hard to remove from PEI, with others adhesion always was an issue one or another way (I am not sponsored by Saprta)

@sanketss84

7 ай бұрын

@@hobbyistnotes will check it out if it’s available where I stay. Thanks once again for taking the time.

Great video, I love yours purple, can u drop the amzon link?

@hobbyistnotes

7 ай бұрын

This was KVP Purple, not sure which one exactly as they have few now. It used to be top ABS among the community but then quality dropped, be aware that my experience with it wasn't good because it's warps a lot even with proper enclosure setup. For me Sparta ABS+ was much better never warped and sticks very well to the bed so I recommend getting it instead - I am not affiliated with Sparta anyhow, so just a recommendation.

You could've added 5160 for XY and replace XY belt idlers with beefy mod as there are crack lines on yours (at least it looks like it). Otherwise looks solid upgrade (add nevermore stealth max filter)

@hobbyistnotes

9 ай бұрын

Not fully sure what crack lines you are mentioning, could you please provide footage time cus may be I have missed something that you have noticed would like to check it. I actually made Nevermore upgrade but thought it will be too much for this video, will show this footage next time.

It just sounds like a configuration issue for you with klicky probe... because i've had the opposite experience

@hobbyistnotes

7 ай бұрын

Maybe you are right but I have tried a lot before giving up... All sorts of auto offset configs and scripts, changed switches few times, fully wiped all the configs, what ever I have right now with the tap is on the level better. I literally have to adjust nothing since I have switched. Also biggest win is the time it takes to start the print, no more extra routines. The only downside is lower accelerations due to rigidity but not by much, about 20-30% lose but I never go over 10k anyway with current setup so it perfect for me.

@hobbyistnotes

7 ай бұрын

I have watched Steve another day: www.youtube.com/@SteveBuilds and he has exactly the same experience. For him Tap also works better.

@davinchewk

7 ай бұрын

If tap works for you then great! I think I know which video from Steve’s build you’re referring to - the one I recall seeing he was using KlickyNG, but that one at the time was still an ongoing project / “beta”. But yeah! I’m using UnklickyNG for one of my 2.4s and KlickyNG for another one and they’ve been pretty solid.

@hobbyistnotes

7 ай бұрын

@@davinchewk You probably right it's easily could be KlickyNG.