Great video man, love the way the lighting came out and the wire management you done. How do you only have 130 subs? And yes we want videos of everything you have done so far.

@SpencersDesk

5 ай бұрын

Aww thanks! I really appreciate it. I posted this at 11pm last night and reuploaded at 1:30am ish to fix some audio balancing. I think the time of post is somewhat influential. I’m still figuring out KZread, trying to make every video better. Thanks for your kind words!

@chilson88

4 ай бұрын

@@SpencersDesk well I’ll have to say you are off to a great start with the videos, and the quality of them are as good if not better than some of the big name KZread influencers

I will watch your channel with great interest

Thank you, very good video!

Great edit, no frustration to watch all through! which is very rare on youtube. I think you'll grow very fast!

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

Thanks for your kind words! I hope to continue to improve them!

Great video. Very interested in your case if you would be so kind to share the stls for it.

Great work ! Waiting for other mods on this one. Im building a custom 3d printer myself for my summer project using e3ez, I like that case! Can you please post the step file ? It would be a great help. Thanks.😊

I have done almost this exact build but got bogged down setting up the CAN network. I’m thrilled to start reading your GitHub- I’ve been stuck with a dead printer for over half a year. Please do a video connecting CAN to E3EZ! You are awesome

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

I feel for you! The CAN network was the worst part for me... So many moving parts. I'll be making a video specifically on CAN, what it is, and how to set it up. I hope the GitHub can help you until then. Thanks for your support, Daniel!

How did you wire the second Z limit switch? I got a Vyper and been thinking about making an adapter board for the SKR 3 That uses the original wiring loom on the Vyper to make the upgrade more accessible without much rewiring. Would love to get your input on this.

@BesbesCat

4 ай бұрын

Also did you wire the heated bed directly or use an external mosfet?

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

Hey! I removed the z limits from my printer. I use the BLtouch as the z probe now, so no need to wire the stops. If you wanted to wire them up, I forget if they are 2 or 3 wire connections, but you can just use other pins for it! For instance, use one of the extruder limit switch pinouts and just configure it as a z-stop. The heated bed is wired directly to the "heated bed" power line on the board. There is also one for the hot end, which I didn't use in this video thanks to my EBB42! Let me know if you have other questions.

Great video. As for the leds and acrylic issue, try turning the led intensity down and use some transparent acrylic rather than clear acrylic.

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

Great call on both of those. I didn't even think of the intensity. It's probably washing out what little effect I managed to achieve with the clear acrylic. One definite issue I couldn't fix was the LEDs not being directed into the acrylic. Trying to keep the graphic close to the case and having limited room for the LEDs definitely made it a bit tougher. Thanks for your kind words! I'm trying to make every video better and better.

What do the screw terminals marked M Power (HV +) (Gnd) do? Are they input for separate power to stepper motors? The manual does not make this clear... I am reluctant to poer them from the 24V PSU

@SpencersDesk

29 күн бұрын

Yes, there is an input for the motherboard, and an input where you can have a different voltage for the motors. If you choose to use the motor input as well, make sure to add the jumpers. There’s a section in the manual about that

@jtreg

29 күн бұрын

@@SpencersDesk thank you!

if you enable filesystem overlay you can cut the power without issue only downside is filesystem is read only but you can mount a difftent fs for data. i used this method on a CNC maschine and it worked without issue

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

The only issue is that I'm constantly changing and configuring the file, so I need the added flexibility. Great idea for something you've got in a finished state though!

The power control is one reason I do like having the Pi separate from the MCU board. The downside of the separate Pi /MCU is the communication over the USB cable and connections dropping, causing Klipper to shutdown due to MCU communication errors. Safety over failed prints.... Both a pain

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

I do believe you can still use the Relay V1.2 to cut power in case of a short on the motherboard. If you have some other thing (smoke detector idk) that is to trigger the relay to shut off, then yeah, not the best :/

I see where this is going. A fully enclosed printer with heated chamber to print high temp plastics! PC, PP and Nylon are the end goal right? Pretty much endgame plastics and the sole reason to do so. People want to go fast while engineers just want the best material and PC is pretty much the king of consumer plastics.

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

Yes!! My current goal is an enclosure that allows me to use plastics that will work in a passively heated enclosure, like Nylon. The long term goal is to get an active heated chamber so I can explore those engineering grade plastics! The print head doesn't quite echo that same goal but, I made that choice before deciding the purpose of the printer. I would like this printer to move at a reasonable speed so that I can still print PLA for quick prototyping. But, the most important thing is a rigid, well-defined machine that can help me create some fantastic parts. Thanks for your comment!

Small skript in Init 0 phase (Shutdown) to rise a GPIO Pin. Little Arduino or a ESP32 sniffing on that GPIO-Pin, that controls the switch. Problem solved. You may even include a small timer (2 seconds or so) to give RPI the time to calm down for shutdown.

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

I've brainstormed a few ways to solve it, but they're just not worth the trouble IMO

734 subs? You are worth way more than that! I also own the Vyper as my only printer, and have also thought about upgrading both the print head, and the mainboard (also to manta). I have just watched your print head video before this, and I have a question. Why did you pick the mosquito hotend? I ask this because I would like to go the same route as you - however the mosquito is a little too high of a price for my budget. Did you research any alternatives, and if so - what are the pros and cons? Thank you in advance :) I'm exited to see how this printers destiny will look like, and I hope you keep up the good work!

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

Thank you so much! I recently shot up from my humble 100 to 750ish over the last 3-4 days! I’m still learning so I think 750 is spectacular right now haha! That’s so exciting for you! I chose the hot end for a few reasons. I think the biggest reason I landed on was the appreciation for the engineering. It’s got such a compact form factor, incredible heat dissipation, and can reach the 500C temps for higher end plastics! The combination of all of these made me choose that. Personally, I love it. I’ve had the nozzle clog a single time since owning it and beyond that have had 0 issues. The only con I really see is the price. I’m hoping to make a standalone video on it in the near future! I also looked at hot ends from other suppliers and they were just clones of others or extremely large. I think I got more bang for my buck going with slice, and I’d recommend saving a little extra to get it (only if you can of course) Best of luck with your Vyper! Thanks for your comment!

@soysmc2933

4 ай бұрын

@@SpencersDesk Thank you for your detailed answer! Looking forward for the mosquito video :D

I'm in the process of getting all the parts needed to guy a printer and go with klipper. Your comments about peeing off the pi properly made me wonder: how one night deal with this in power failure situations? Ideally what I'd like to do would have the pi on a battery backup and when it detected the mains go down for it to go through as proper shutdown. Having never used a pi before I honestly don't have a clue how to even go about starting this.

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

Hey! I've got another video on controlling the power to my printer! If you were to combine the BTT Relay V1.2's power loss detection, it could send a signal to your Pi to shutdown. If you added the BTT 24V UPS, that plus the capacitors inside the power supply could power the pi long enough to shut down safely. Maybe I'll do a deeper dive when I reimplement the BTT Relay. I've turned the Pi off plenty of times without shutting it down (unintentionally) and it has been fine so far, so it's not the biggest worry in the world

@Enjoymentboy

4 ай бұрын

@@SpencersDesk Thanks. I'll dig into it in a bit. Safe assumption that i could make an image of the final OS set on the sd card and just rebuild again if it got corrupted?

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

If you're using a Pi in the B form factor (3B, 4B) then yeah, you can just have two identical cards in case one gets corrupted. For the CM4, I'm not sure how to clone an image and have it backed up, but I'm sure that you can! You would just have to reflash it via a USB cable, radding the jumpers and everything.

What crimper do you use? Are you happy with it?

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

Hey, I thought I had a link to it, but I don't! I bought this Crimping Tool Set - amzn.to/3v4mM2q It comes with DuPont and JST-XH connectors which are the most commonly needed I think. I haven't had a single issue with it, very happy! I've also got similar tools from Klein tools and in the future will exclusively purchase from them. They're awesome. Hope that helps!

@NicksStuff

4 ай бұрын

@@SpencersDesk It does, thanks!

Pimps out his rig 2 the max - still uses a bedslinger 🤣

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

😂 it’s a way of life! Have you not seen the new sub 2 minute speed benchy by a bedslinger?

I hate tghe EZ boards from BTT. The new format of stepsticks is absolutly useless. My hope was that TMC5160 could be used up to 10 Amps per phase because of better cooling but this hope was terminated by BTT itself as they released EZ-5160 Sticks with just 3 Amps maximum current, wich is the same as with normal Stepsticks. As the 5160 boards usualy uses external Power-FETs with low resistance that board do even not benefit from the special EZ formfactor (some sort of over engineering).

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

I won't say completely useless, but pretty close, lol. Their form factor does make board layouts much nicer. And installing them really was a breeze. But yeah, both very minor things. The cooling, however, is not improved at all as far as I can tell. If you look closely under the heat shield, it seems like there might be a thermal pad between the TMC IC and the shield, but it's so small that it isn't even making contact. The only real advantage of the TMC5160 drivers on this board is the higher voltage. I'd definitely like to see a trend towards changing the form factor of these TMC chips for better cooling as I find it pretty cool. But, the best way forward is probably just having ICs built into your control board with heat shields mounted from the factory. Thanks for your comment!

whats the point though? buy a rpi, throw on klipper and move on with your life even the decade old boards work just as well

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

Hey! Fair points! My good engineer buddy has the same mindset. As to the point of the enclosure and stuff, I had fun making it, learned a lot, and thought it was a cool idea! I think the point of a control board is quite obvious, I think you're asking why the Manta specifically. Like, why a CM4? The main reason I chose it was to reduce the amount of wiring that was required. I didn't like having wiring between the Pi and the printer and having to find space for a power plug. It's super compact and clean, which I liked! It's not a huge change, but one I was interested in. My 3B ran things perfectly fine for months with no major drawbacks, but I can definitely tell the difference in WiFi/camera performance from switching to the CM4. I'm sure using a Pi4B would bring the same difference. Thanks for your comment!

@jonmarler

4 ай бұрын

I used to think the same thing and limped along with an old 8-bit board from an Anet A8. Upgrading to a BigTreeTech mainboard resolved so many issues and allowed me to get rid of the endstops, even while re-using the old stepper motors. The difference in performance was night and day! Some of the older 8-bit boards just aren't snappy enough to get even basic Klipper running 100%, much less the high speeds you can achieve with input shaping. I can totally understand wanting to simplify down to a setup like this. I'm still running Klipper on a separate Pi 3A, and something like this looks very nice.

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

What’s your experience with sensorless homing? I definitely agree with upgrading the MCU. I gotta say, I’m thoroughly enjoying the Manta so far and don’t really mind having to shutdown the pi before asking ALEXA to shut the printer off.

@jonmarler

4 ай бұрын

@@SpencersDesk I have had good luck with sensorless homing using the BigTreeTech boards! I have what used to be a very cheap Anet A8 printer, and the sensorless homing works perfectly with the original stepper motors. You have the vast majority of the work done already. You should be able to do that pretty easy. It might take a bit of trial and error with Klipper, but it’s not super complicated. You will need to have the TMC2209 drivers on the board.

@SpencersDesk

4 ай бұрын

This has been something I've wrestled with for a little bit. The only concern I've seen with sensorless homing is the repeatability of it. I don't think this would affect print quality unless you had a power outage and had to resume, potentialyl causing a difference in the previous and current coordinate systems. The only way I think it would be an issue is in your bed mesh and actual position possibly being misaligned due to the homing being slightly different for both. Easily corrected for if you run a mesh before every print. I recently got a Prusa Mini and realized that it uses sensorless homing. If it's good enough for Prusa, I think it's good enough for me. Maybe I'll do a quick investigation of it. Thanks for your comment!