I have been waiting for someone creating this kind of detail steps, thanks man!

Thanks john, now my own can charger lihv

Very useful. Thanks

Thanks John! This is really useful information, and you've taken the time to show all the steps. I've just returned to flying RC Helicopters and multirotors after a break of about 6 years, and to my surprise a lot of the LiPo batteries I'd kept in the fridge at storage charge were still within 5% of their original capacity. However, with 3 microhelis, 2 quadrotors, and a pair of 450 scale helicopters and room to fly them at my house, the batteries have quickly had dozens of cycles and are now being retired. A shipment of new batteries arrived, and in the time I hadn't been flying HV LiPo become more common, and I have accidentally found myself with a number of extremely affordable HV LiPos, but my Junsi iCharger 106b+ pre-dates HV LiPo and will only go to 4.30V Imagine my surprise to discover that the iCharger has been cloned by everybody, and that there's now Open Source firmware for it. Thank for the video. I've subscribed because I think you do some very interesting stuff.

@johniii5776

Жыл бұрын

Thanks! Glad that the video could help!

Thanks for sharing

Hi John III, thanks for the very explanatory video, I loved it, and I also updated my original Imax B6 which also worked very well. I also made updates for several of my friends who also liked it, only one didn't like the update and I need you: Can this update be reverted, do you know if it can? Do you know how to reverse this? Thanks in advance for any response...

Hi! Thanks a lot for sharing this video, you know, since some weeks ago I'm loosing my comfidence in my charger calibration and more than flash it with a Cheali firmware I was looking for some steps for with comfidence reading the existent firmware on my chargers (I have 2 identical, GT Power X-Charger B606). This, just because some chargers has on it a 'once time calibration option' and I want to check this on mine having a copy of the firmware of the mcu of my charger. I didn't read anything yet, but just watching your vid can solve 2 questions that I have previously, 1st how to identify the mcu without desolder the ide connector of the screen (if I didn't watch you doing that probably I didn't dare it on my own charger :V ), 2nd, how to identify just what connector (the isp connector) is the one to start on (if exist even) without check on the cheali github page. Thanks again your vid is very explanatory and your advices are great! regards from chile,

@johniii5776

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your feedback I am happy I could help! :D

yep i would like to under charge a few battery's

hi John. do you think I can charge LTO battery with this firmware upgrade?

We have to choose the com port of the arduino as isp?exemple mine is port com 3?

Hi can we flash it using USbasp programmer?

After update do you facing any issues

hey john, I was wondering if we could get in contact about your 3D printed rc cars steering. how did you make sure the joints where fluid and smooth? what recommendations do you have in the case that I cant use bearings/bushings? thanks for helping bro

@johniii5776

Жыл бұрын

Hi thanks for showing interest in my projects! I the trick is to use low layer heights (I use 0.15mm for the car). For connections between joints i like to use wire about 0.6-0.8mm thick. I design holes in the parts and connect the 2 moving parts with the wire (slide wire through the holes and bend the 2 ends so it cant slide out). It is very smooth, easy to assamble and has quite good tolerances. Direct connections between 3d printed parts without using wire or screws or something else will have friction, worse tolerances and be more fragile. I recommend the wire trick it works really well. Also I use 8mm×5mm×2.5mm ball bearings for the wheels. I design a 8mm hole where the bearings can be pressed into. The wheels have a 5mm lug on them and can be pressed inside the bearing itself. I can do an update video about the car, there are quite a few changes and it works really well by now. I may have time im the following weeks but time is very scarce at the moment :) Again, thanks for your interest and have a nice day!

Hi, thank You for sharing this!...I don't have Arduino but a CH341A programmer. Can i use it to flash my Atmega32L Turnigy Accucell6 50W charger? Thank You in advance...

@johniii5776

Жыл бұрын

I am not 100% sure but I think it should work. I cant provide any specifc steps, I have never worked with the C341 programmer. But you can try to connect the wires the correct way and see if AVR dude can flash your charger. Maybe there is already some documentation on this on the internet aswell.

@bleak0218

Жыл бұрын

@@johniii5776 Did You use the 5V power pin for VCC?

I have a sky rc imax b6 version 1 and the voltage calibration is off. I did the calibration by pressing the Dec and enter key simultaneously and powering on the device. I connected a 3.7v battery and checked it's voltage with a multimeter and accordingly calibrated the charger. But the problem is i had to set to +20 and still the calibration is off by around -0.07 volts. Do you have any idea on how to fix this or do i need to reinstall the firmware? Will this upgrade also work?

@johniii5776

6 ай бұрын

Hard to tell the problem based on your description. The firmware upgrade might help, but if the charger is broken or you do the calibration in the wrong way, it won't. Also, i am not sure what the calibration process for the original charger firmware looks like. It might work differently. Anyways, here are my thoughts: Did you use a battery with enough cells for calibration? I think you need at least 3 cells to calibrate all measurement circuits. I also can imagine, you may have calibrated the wrong cells. Cell number 1 in a lipo pack is the two first black wire pairs on the balance lead and cell number [max] is the red and black lead. You may have interpreted the enumeration the other way which would lead to wrong calibration. Follow the calibration part of the video closely and make sure you calibrate the right cell number on the charger for the right cell in the battery. I hope this helps! Edit. I see now, you calibrated using only one cell. In that case, I do not see why the calibration should not work. If you calibrate till the displayed voltage on the charger matches the displayed voltage on the multimeter then the calibration should have worked fine.

@lebanrifordrndohling

6 ай бұрын

@@johniii5776 Thank you I'll try with a 3s pack. Also in the video you Flashed using the clone imaxB6 (cheali-charger-imaxB6-clone-50W-4.5A_2.00-e10.3.12-20160613_atmega32.hex). In the Github page there is also the original imaxB6 (cheali-charger-imaxB6-original_2.00-e10.3.12-20160613_atmega32.hex). will it make any difference using the original???

@johniii5776

6 ай бұрын

@@lebanrifordrndohling It may be that i accidently showed the wrong hex file in the video. Use the file that suits your charger

Hello , do you have information for Connector for GE Power B6 , ?

@johniii5776

2 жыл бұрын

I think if there is any you will find it on the official cheali charger github page

@xaviergerard2656

2 жыл бұрын

@@johniii5776 yes, I found thank you it was almost the same card as an accucel 6. but in the end I don't like the cheali at all. it's not pretty and you need a too precise multimeter to adjust the calibration. and there are problems on two output of the balancing voltage drop when I connect the connector.

Hi, what mA fuse have Your multimeter that You can measure 300mA without blowing it?

@johniii5776

Жыл бұрын

My meter has an option for 400mA and 10A I always use the correct fuse. If your meter only has a 300ma option there is no reason to put a bigger one in it. You can damage your meter. You need a meter that has a bigger current meter in it.

@bleak0218

Жыл бұрын

@@johniii5776 Ok, i see. My meter has a 200mA fuse for the mA resolution, but when i try to calibrate in this resolution the 50mA charge current it blows the fuse all the time. I noticed when i hit the enter button to start the current, it starts with around 850mA for a second or less (enough to blow the fuse), and then suddenly decrease to around the default point. So i'm not able to measure the accurate current in the

I don't have an Arduino. I guess I'll have to send my charger back. Stupid of me ordering the wrong charger.

Can this be done on Hitec x4 AC plus?

@orojasp

2 жыл бұрын

You know, probably that charger is not listed on the ones that support this modification. This because the cheali firmware is for that generic kind of '4 button lipo chargers', idk if you know it but they are like a big family of chinese chargers, all very similar among them. I think to get confirmation you can visit the cheali page.

Hi John can I use Raspbery Pi 4 instead of Arduino?

@johniii5776

Жыл бұрын

I would not know how. I dont think so

@JayWalker2222

Жыл бұрын

@@johniii5776 thanks anyway.

You showed, that you have an original B6, then you downloaded a clone version's HEX file?

@csongor48

Жыл бұрын

Hoppá a videón tényleg rosszul mutattam :O ezt a klippet csak utólag vettem fel, a töltőn egy másik file van.

@mec-rc

Жыл бұрын

@@csongor48 Köszi a videó alapján én is frissítettem, jó lett. Nem mertem az unstable verziót felrakni úgyhogy a 2.0-t töltöttem le és rendben működik, csak szokni kell a logikáját.

@bleak0218

Жыл бұрын

@@mec-rc Szia! Meg szeretném kérdezni, hogy milyen töltőt flash-eltél? Illetve valamiért nem látom ennek a beszélgetésnek az előzményeit. Az unstable-t miért nem merted választani? Előre is köszönöm!

@mec-rc

Жыл бұрын

@@bleak0218 Szia, nem mertem felrakni egy unstable verziót, mert félek a lakástűztől. A videó szerint csináld végig, a töltő alaplapja szerinti verziót tedd fel. Azóta is rendben működik, LiHV töltés is jó.

@bleak0218

Жыл бұрын

@@mec-rc Értem, köszönöm! Én a 2.01-et tervezem ráapplikálni az Accucell6 50W Atmega32L töltőre, csak nekem most az Arduino helyett egy CH341A programozó áll rendelkezésre erre. Még most kutakodom hogy működik-e ezzel. Úgy néz ki van rá megoldás...