I own a UT210E and as far as the offset is annoying I appreciate the price, also understanding the principle of measuring. It is not only earth's magnetic field the source of offset or disturbances, it is any ferromagnetic material around it. So when I have to measure very low currents it is specially useful but have to keep the meter in place and zero it. About Dave being biased XD have you noticed the times he slammed the uni-t on the table? 😀

The bias is high. The Uni-T's jaws don't need to open more as it's meant for thinner cables than the Brymen is.

On the inside of the back cover of the UniT there is a feature that gives the spring extra support, so not a fail.

@necbd8893

Жыл бұрын

I have used many models of uni-t meters, lowcost simply better, but not industrial grade, still I'm facing lower contrast issue, too higher offset null

@JAKOB1977

Жыл бұрын

@@necbd8893 look up Extech MA63 230USD device. Unit-T is a hit or miss. some of their tools are suppresinly good and some of them are garbage, even at the low price. Unit- 210E is a classic and was a steal for the 25 to 30USD that most people could get them for 5 to 8 years back. the 211B also seem to be pretty good.

Here's the actual biggest problem with the 210E (dont know how common that is in others): On DC, if there's ever a higher current spike during measurement, that changes the magnetization of the iron-core clamp and therefore the zero offset. So if the current is the same after the spike, the measurement is offset by some amount dependent on the size of the spike. You can verify this by taking the wire out of the clamp and observing the new no-current level, and possibly re-zeroing. Not hard to test either, just pass constant current through the clamp and discharge a capacitor through a second loop going through the clamp. I really like the 2A range on it regardless though, you can totally measure the current through a single 5mm LED with that, and it has a lot of other uses. Even more so at AC. Try measuring the earth leakage current of an appliance for example with any other type of meter. Or small AC loads in general. No zeroing problems there. Although it does get confused by magnetic fields from big iron transformers nearby. You just gotta know the limitations like with any measurement tool.

@brouwereric644

Жыл бұрын

Point taken. Out of experience, I normally "demagnetize" our clamp-on meters after measuring high values of DC current. I do this using a variac, ramping op the current to 8A (my limit), and slowly reducing current back to zero.

@Basement-Science

Жыл бұрын

@@brouwereric644 Yeah you can do that if you want to reduce the zero offset temporarily, but it doesnt really do much. You'd still want to zero it before measuring anyway. If you demagnetize it, you dont have to ramp down the current slowly btw, it technically only takes a handfull of AC cycles to do it, so you can turn up and down the variac as fast as you can.

@2009dudeman

Жыл бұрын

You have the fluke 368/369 FC that are designed to measure leakage current. They have a range from 3ma to 60A with the 3ma range you have a resolution of 0.001A with an accuracy of 1%+5 digits. So the price is a demerit, but its a quality clamp meter. For $800 though you really need to have a good use, which is where the Uni-T shines. For the price you can't beat it. But ignoring price, it's not a first choice for anyone that needs it for work. I wouldn't trust that it's telling me the right thing, that is an instant deal breaker. I cannot be questioning my equipment when working on a customer vehicle. If I cant trust it, then it goes in the trash. Otherwise I could spend a hour tracking something down that was never there in the first place wasting everyone's time in the process. For hobby stuff, yeah i'd buy it any day.

"The Brymen only has a 10mA resolution" - Sorry, but the comparison was already over for me at that point ^^' The 1mA range on the UT210E is absolutely crucial to me and what I do. But you have to be careful with correct zeroing, because just turning the device in the earth's magnetic field can change the reading by a few mA Very nice teardown as usual, I enjoyed this video. Thanks!

27:00 It can be seen that it looks like Bryman has similar offset, but automatically zeros it out.

@wbfaulk

Жыл бұрын

The way it counts down feels like it's calculating the offset. Maybe there's an offsetting sensor in the body that takes a little while to come up to speed?

The uni-t is super helpful for checking battery charge currents on the commercial equipment I use. Constant float charge currents on small systems can be as low as 40ma. Full load discharge currents on large equipment with massive battery sets can be as high as 80amps. Yes its a pain having to switch it to DC and Zero it, but I've learnt to re-zero it just before I clamp around the cable I wish to measure. Like ANY test equipment you need to intuitively know what sort of numbers you expect to see and ask yourself does the number make sense and if not what common effects could be throwing the reading off. The uni-t does have a small amount of drift over time, something I've noticed and expect to see. Reading the comments about stray magnetism below have been super helpful because I now understand WHY this is happening. The sideways screen is a slight inconvenience and I often lay it on its side. That said, I'm super happy with what it does for the price and its capabilities seem to well match the equipment I work on. Your milage may vary.

@ytrew9717

Жыл бұрын

does tit bip on diode mode?

I've had a UT210E for about 3 years. It has proved very useful and easy to use. Sadly, the red ring around the selector recently perished and fell to bits, so it's not so easy to turn now.

I've got Brymen BM037 just last week, great clamp meter, thx for the tip.

Hi Dave Thank you for this review. It helped me in making a purchase decision... Might not be what you will expect :). I work in the Electrical Protection environment, and most of my current measurements in on CT's, with a full load current of 1A AC. Also, on the metering side, breaking into transducers circuits of 0-20mA, 4-20mA and 0-5mA DC is an issue with our equipment at work. For the mA ranges, I am not interested in accurate readings, and only measure to determine if the transducer is working or not. With no DC clamp-on equipment at work, we need to break into the mA circuit for measurements using a Fluke 87 V, which when the mA loop is open circuited, can result in a 618MW generator trip. Worh the low cost and "hopefully"DC mA measurements. Apart from my Electrical Protection, I am also actively involved in electronics, batttery charging and DC power supply repairs. Occasionally, I do some home electrical repairs ( The UT210E seems to fit my work purpose. As with most things in life, there are 1000 options at 3000 prize tags. It all depends on each person's requirements. Keep well, Eric Brouwer From South Africa

I've got the rebranded UniT as a Voltcraft VC-330. I like it. Works well, but the Brymen has some nice features.

5:19 Stretching the digits vertically and putting them so close together only makes the Brymen harder to read. I highly prefer the way the digits on the Uni-T are displayed.

The flexing of the plastic for the return spring is addressed by the back cover. It provides the needed support needed. Take a look. The u controller chip says DM1106EN.

My UNI-T has a DC offset ~460mA and I don't care. For the price and my use cases it is a great meter. I often use it on 2A DC mode to roughly measure/check the current, often +/- 10-20mA is not an issue. I could use standard current measurement method to get higher precision but additional resistancies in circuit could change the current much more than measurement error with UNI-T. Or there are cases when you want to get an idea about current in circuit but you can not disconnect it (and measure with standard DMM) because it would cause internal state change of the device. On the other side, I wouldn't use that meter to take measurements in big distribution panel in a factory. But for home usage (electronics, car measurements) I think it is a good meter.

The UT210E and UT210D are very nice devices after configuration mods. I paid 30€ in 2019. Joe Smith shows nice modification to an UT210E too.

@jimmybrad156

Ай бұрын

What capabilities do these said mods provide? Thanks

I think the Bryman is a better meter by quite a margin. But, I bought the Uni-t and I'm glad I did. I have learnt what an "instrumentation amplifier" is. I have also learnt about the difficulties of measuring low DC current with sensors influenced by Earth's magnetic field. Uni-t 210E-Pro is a better choice. You can also pick off the signal where it is applied to the MM chip and apply it to a scope. I appreciate what I have learnt from this totally 'hackable' meter.

@EEVblog2

Жыл бұрын

What does the Pro add apart from frequency?

The UnitT 210E does have "com" to probe NCV feature. (just tested it) and it works great on my unit, it peaks at 3 out 4 of intensity bars if I am directly on a hot wire with my probetip., with the dialed down and way more useable sensitive that are on the 210E versus my other clamp meter with NCV feature that often are to sensitive to a point where you can decipher one EF reading from the next.-. so if that doesn't work on yours, then something aint right Dave.

Honestly the 2 amp range is pretty shit on DC but I've used it before. If you have barely any tools on you and you have to figure out a problem on a car, you can follow a startup sequence step by step with it if you have it on the + terminal with no movement. Used it to chase a ground fault in an engine bay before and it was a huge help. In AC it also saved me when I got a SOS call from a friend after work where an RCD kept tripping. It's decently good for chasing leaks.

the NCV (EF) on my 210E is one of the best I have seen.. it picks up from around 50 cm and its surprisingly linear with its 4 intensity graded-values both on beep and on the display.(not sure what is going on with yours). the other clamp tools I have with NCV (EF) is way way to sensitive and often a problem to sense which EF its actually picking up and from which wire/device, and why I often prefer the 210E. I do have a crude EF-specific meter, so I can check the values where these devices trigger.

I got a UNI-T because it's cheap, small and just works and it's not the end of the world if I lose it. But I do have two main issues with it, the narrowing clamp shape makes it difficult to put even slightly thick items, an example is the UNI-T AC power breakout, it only just barely fits. The other is it doesn't have a *peak hold* which is often something I really wish it had, was disappointed when they didn't add it on the Pro refresh.

@EEVblog2

Жыл бұрын

Yeah, the Pro should have peak min/max

I have a UNIT 210E and I am pleased with it. Very good! I can measure dc and ac current with the clamp meter. Obviously on the 2Adc scale the offset may be high and also it feels the magnetic field of the earth. So, don't complain, it has to be like that.

@vadimlvs

Жыл бұрын

This is the effect of magnetizing the core of the clamp, Hall sensors fix this as DC. It can be seen that there is no magnetization on Brymen (or it is very small).

NVC DIY FIX: use Bounce sheet (the sheet you put in your drying machine) and rub it on the meter and the test lead and the housing... it will prevent the meter from getting statics and beep for no reasons...

Yeah.. I like it... I have the Pro version I believe only difference is that have Hz capability... the ir also a "D" version that incorporates thermocouple

Having to open the case, is dependant on normal battery life, so interval of needing to change battery to determine how bad or good a battery compartment is.

2 amp DC range may be good enough for automotive parasitic drain checks, far more convenient than breaking the battery connection to put in a shunt or DMM you're willing to risk.

@mysoap23

Жыл бұрын

Yea but then if you are pulling fuses under the dash to see which circuit is causing the drain you cant see the meter in the engine bay when its around the negative cable.

I guess this turned into an interesting demonstration of accuracy vs precision!

mine had a huge offset as well. but i was able to get rid of it using those demagnetiser things

I use a fork fluke t6 1000 for work, but would like a dc clamp obviously for dc and vvvf drives with the frequency. For the bench electronics the small dc current would be handy.

Depends on place you stick it

Just tested my UNI-t210E \, it seems to be much more sensitive than yours on the NCV mode. Perhaps a little production variance issue? Well, I guess for the $46 CDN I paid for it you might expect that there might be surprises. Edit1: Finding the existing thread is a good idea with any kind of self tapping screw media .. plastic, aluminum, steel, etc.. Just make it a habit, especially into any kind of sheet metal.. Edit2: Yeah, no. I have no issue using it with my left hand either. Maybe my hands are bigger and stronger than Dave's, but using it in the left hand is trivial for me too. Edit3: Yes, mine came with RA probes.

I've got one. They're a decent meter for quick jobs

Oh, i think this was live amd you fave this shit to us.

extechs have the same issue with high DC offset in low current DC mode. They can also give bogus readings even AFTER zeroing it. The best bet it to crack it open and adjust the pot to get the resting state closer to Zero.

The offset changes constantly. S0metimes its 30 milliamps sometimes its 150 milliamps. Someone said use a demagnetizer on the clamp to reduce some of it.

I have an Extech that also has an offset in DC and is more or less useless for measuring a few A because it reacts to much on the magnetic fields around the clamp. I tried to measure charging current in a car. As soon as the car starts the display goes all over the place (It is a TRMS clampmeter I bought like 12 years ago for something around 250 euros) so I am curious what the Uni-t does in such a situation

@pa4tim

Жыл бұрын

@@johng4527 The meter is in my sailboat and I do not know the model number from the top of my head. Next week I am on the boat so I will look if I remember it ;-) I repair measurement gear for a living so I have seen/used/repaired other clampmeters. Maeby something is wrong with it. I never looked because I seldom need it. For work I use a few AC+DC current probes for my scope, a AC+DC powermeter (all repairs run via that meter) and a vintage tubes-powered HP DC current probe+amp that does 10 A down to 10mA full scale and is spot-on (I aligned it on a calibrator).

Are Mastech part of Kane/UEI? That Klein meter is clearly a rebadged Mastech MS2108A (which isn't a bad meter, for a cheapie)

The uni-t is made for right hand use ? (You operate the knob with your left hand.)

I have three UNI-T meters including this one. They're GREAT. Most of the things you think the Brymen one does better, I disagree with. The right-handed, rubber coated thumbwheel is excellent. The ergonomics is great, the narrow nose makes it easier to get a cable into it. I'm doing electronics (not an industrial electrician)

I have a 210d and it definitely has some weird behavior. It can’t figure out AC if there is a DC offset, it gives really odd readings. The current clamp wanders a bit and the NCV is all over the place. I got it for 30$ so I’m not really complaining, I just always think of it as “for reference only” and it lives in the glove box of my car for all the times I’m on the road, need a meter, didn’t plan and bring something better (which is pretty regular for me). The brymen seems like it’s a “real” meter that you can actually trust and might be the minimum viable one at that so it’s a good choice for your store even if it ends up near 3x the price landed.

replace the trigger spring for a weaker spring job done

HALLO ! Can you tell me how to calibrate the brymen bm65 and bm65s??

Comparing wrong Uni-T model to Brymen. Should compare Uni-T UT216C. The UT210E is smaller for tight spots and single wires or small bundles, and 1mA resolution is spot on. I have about five of these things; super handy. The bigger clamp has different applications.

Yeah, some UNI-T love :o)

The clamp 1mA resolution is pretty much essential for domestic RCD/GFCI testing and tripping analysis. Don't ask me how I know!

Nice 😃

3d print/injection mold a thumbwheel to fit over the Brymen's knob

Dave, I have the UT210E too - and mine has about 140mA offset on 2A DC range. So I guess that's normal for that meter.

@ssalient

Жыл бұрын

I have one too but it has an offset of just around 20-ish mA

does the UniT 210E bip on diode mode?

135mA offset here and varies with around +25mA difference with a horisontal 360 trip. Its varies a tad more with vertical roundtrip where it goes from 110mA to 190mA DC offset. it does not much sense to compare offset in one unit guided for 6x higher amp-peak and less reso. Would be a fail to praise one meter, if its in fw they reset-it to a certain extent' when changing to DC ranges, just as some do with a hack on 210E.. and then critise the other, if that is au natural values and its up fully up to the user to do that, zeroing .. you really need a magnetic reference and apples-to-apples if you wanna praise one's unit offset vs the other. Hmm.. funny how you wont test low current stuff to see how that BM037 stacks up with fx sub 150mA. as that is where the BM037 could excel and surprise me, after all its a 600 A clamp meter, so usually its not good at the lower current even at the 60A range, and you need to have a certain load for it to be somewhat accurate, and it aint like it will pick up from just +10mA, usually far from it. you often need in the triple digits of mA's for it to be somewhat accurate, and its here these 1mA DC really comes into play. You can check Lygte-info test on the 210E, also in regards to drift-over-time as it does drift.. also tested other alternatives like ACM91 with dual display. Go ahead Dave I would invest all your money into this limited budget BM037 and try to flip it to your viewers for 100USD before shipping and VAT.. (its clearly the answer your looking for with this display of confirmation bias, where you over and over are concluding wrongful conclusions on the 210E features & ablelities and likely also why' a relative big portion is sadly downvoting this vid (+13% thumbs down) as it does seem like objectiveness' is out with the bathwater and things are getting cherry picked according to your bias) same with the NCVand probe to comport and using the probe-tip as an extension.. if that doesn't work on your 210E then yours is faulty. I think you gonna have a hard days night flipping them, even at 1/3 of that...why should people purchase it?? It got two thing going for it.. the Brymen name, and perhaps the EEV label (is that enough??), as a clamp meter it's as limited as they come and even just changing batteries, is a f4cep4lm, and CAT-ratings don't meen a lot - as its a clamp meter, and where the bananajacks often takes a backseat on such a device. BM037 is a boring device. that brings nothing interesting what so ever to the table.. budget entry AC&DC clamp meter, and I do understand your incentive, as you can likely pick them up from Brymen to like 1/3 but I also sense that you are not familiar with the clamp meter market and you think that UT210 is unreal low price at 60 AUS locally.. the reason is that they are even cheaper in CN and most people got them from CN quite a few years back.. To put it into perspective a feature packed modern clamp meter, look up HT208D that is a 40 US 1000A AC/DC clamp meter 1k A, 600A, 60A (with Habotest label) also with 10mA res, that I picked up 1 month back from BG and that 40 US are with incl. 25% danish VAT and shipping and its packed with features., like fast Inrush-peak/100ms, LoZ, VFD, Max/min, dual colored display.. rubber molding, casing etc. - and c'mon Dave.. its a DC clamp meter.. with high sensitivity.. you need to reset it..Its the "hall-sensor-name" of the low current game.. you gotta be new to DC low current clamp meters with hall sensors - if that is a huge problem for you, and almost a dealbreaker, - the lower the current the more important it is..

Not a fair comparison for price points. Try the UT204+. 600/60A, bigger screen, bigger clamp, min/max, and probe NCV. Also it has capacitance up to 60mf.

For the price my Uni-T does what I need it to. But does anyone else's have vampire issues? I swear the batteries are dead everytime I pull it out.

i have a cheapo clamp-meter from bangood and it has the same crap behavior as the UNI-T 😀 also what's the point of the 3. decimal place when the 2. one is just rough guess ? 😄

how about Mestek CM85C/ Aneng PN100? anyone tried? at least on paper looks like a good alternative.

Flashing backlight on continuity mode, what a load of bollocks and I'm sure our deaf friends will be reading the value off the display anyway. Continuity has always had a beep and dosent need backlight backup and you were as surprised as the rest of us when you switched OFF the backlight and the bloody thing still flashed !! superior continuity my arse. Sensitivity isn't a problem that's why they both have a 'zero' button and yes that extra digit is useful if take into account your environment and use it accordingly. Did you check whether the UNI-T flips its screen over ? because that would sort out the left/right handed crap, not that anyone gives a toss. The Bryman screen looks like a toy in comparison. For your shop ? yes go for the Brymen, you couldn't make any money off the UNI-T. Great video Dave....cheers.

I just had a burger and brussel sprouts!!!

Agreed on the side display; imagine an electrician doing some work in an electrical panel, grabbing a wire with the clamp and having to turn the meter to get a good reading... Nah, bad usability. Why would they even do that? On the other hand, I like Uni-T's display more than Brymen's, it's a lot clearer and easier to read. Right angle probes... if so, why are these sockets not on the top? Those springy contacts for the battery compartment are pretty prone to fail, making the meter show a false low battery warning even though it's perfectly OK. Got this issue on a cheap UT890D+ and modded the meter by soldering in a pair of wires connecting these two parts. 19:09 that's a well known service tip, I guess. I learned it during my campus radio time, 2008 or so. No EEVBlog or FranLab back then... LOL

@Throckmorton.Scribblemonger

Жыл бұрын

You have to turn the Brymen to read the display, as Dave shows in this video.

@EEVblog2

Жыл бұрын

I don't get the right angled probes, why?

@Throckmorton.Scribblemonger

Жыл бұрын

@@EEVblog2 Because those are cheaper for Uni-T; they use angled probes for all their meters.

I wonder why you want 600A range for electronic. I generally use a Benning CM11 clamp meter, it only goes up to 10A DC, but has 0.0001A (Yes 0.1mA) resolution and can measure a few mA fairly reliable (Better than UT210E). One of my Keysight clamps has a 1A offset.

@littlejackalo5326

Жыл бұрын

It can measure down to 100 uA on the clamp or with the probes? This is more of a meter for industrial technicians, not for circuit boards and small electronics. I think having a clamp meter that only goes up to 10A on the clamp is even more awkward of a range than 600A for a clamp meter. My Klein will do AC/DC 40A/400A max and 0.3A min on the clamp and DC 0.1-200 uA in 100 nA resolution. 200 uA max is kinda useless on a meter that goes up to 400A. So between 200 uA and 0.3A (0.0002-0.3000A) it's useless. I don't even know why they included a 0.1-200 uA range. I don't want anything that low on a meter that goes up to 400A. I wish they had a meter that was AC/DC 10A/100A max and 0.01A min ranges on the clamp and AC/DC 0.0001-1A on the probes.

@henrikjensen3278

Жыл бұрын

On the clamp, it means I that for many circuits I can just clamp it around a supply wire and see the current consumption. I have other clamp meters with much higher ranges, but I very seldom uses them for electronic.

@EEVblog2

Жыл бұрын

>60A is common on modern battery storage systems and other high power things.

@JAKOB1977

Жыл бұрын

CM11 One of the few with 0.1mA on both AC&DC on the clamps but its also a meter in another priceballpark, its like 450 euro here in Denmark. Unit-T also has an 0.1mA clamp meter, as in the 211B but that's only in AC, the DC is still 1mA for the clamps. but these UniT 210E/211B style clamps meter, have been quite popular over the last decade, aint Flir/Extech rebranding it with their Extech M63 (230US MSRP) and MA61, though I haven't seen board to board comparisons. Are the Benning CM11 test on Lygte Info?

@henrikjensen3278

Жыл бұрын

The CM11 is not a cheap meter and is much better at measuring mA than UNI-T. Is is worth the money? For me the answer is yes. I have not published any review of it.

I like both of these clamps, but without a 1000V range they're pretty useless for any sensible sized solar install.

The UT210E's thumb wheel is too easy to move accidentally, catches me out sometimes.

two different devices. one is a low current device and the other aint. and it doesn't matter if its 10mA res.. the AC&DC clamp I encountered when they are able to go high in peak like 600A they are often not good at the lower lower ranges and not goof sensitivity below a few hundred mA's even though they in theory has 10mA DC res.. The UniT 210E 1mA AC & DC and the UniT 211B 0.1mA AC and 1mA DC.. is actually actually useable at the lower DC ballpark. and also believe, that these models have been so popular that they have been rebranded.. even Flir /Extech are carrying it. aint the Extech MA63 just a Unit-T211B.?? but costing many fold more like 230USD MSRP. The UnitT210 was a steal at the 28USD I got mine for 5 years back with incl. shipping and that unit also have dual molding rubber layered housing. all these other things. you can do with the bananjacks.. is a i hit or miss, as its a clamp meter, and having cables dangling on it. is annoying as, so I tend to just use my clamp meter, for what they are.. a clamp meter and use my DMM for all other aspects. IMO put clamp-features in a clamp meters.. like inrush peak etc and perhaps some filtering and max and min or average and perhaps a Bluetooth chip, as wireless logging over time' could also be handy from a distance so you can just have the clamp meter in place and monitor it from a distance, but likely a reason why they haven't gone down that road, and if the BT-signal flukes the hall sensors readings.

@JAKOB1977

Жыл бұрын

Just spent 40 USD on a new AC/DC clamp meter, that one also has 10mA res.- Its the HT208D 1000A color display clamp meter with a lot of features- inrush peak (100ms), LoZ, VFD etc etc. I reckon the entry and quite limited BM037 will be hard sell. at around 70 bucks even at half of that, (before VAT and shipping) I reckon will be a challenge, but then again I also don't understand "influencing" and the aspetc people will pay for merch's and show loyalty and be connected with some "social media influencer" - so Im likely not the best to judge such rebranded EEVblog devices. put a harald blåtand LE-chip in it and make the BM037 piggyback ride on your BT-app, as that could be handy.. being able to datalog clampreadings over time from your phone, if that is even possible with such sensitive hall sensors or if the BT signal would fluke the values..

"the Earth's not flat after all". ROTFL

I knew there was going to be anti cheap bias straightaway when you said you needed a 'lot' of force to open the clamp.. (unless it is faulty; come on, you must be kidding) also at 1:50 where you said you can operate the dial 'the same' on the Brymen.. yeah... half way. After that you need the other hand or put it down! No you can't do it the same. You then criticise the UNI-T for having a low amp measurement that the Brymen doesn't but praise the Brymen for an amp setting the UNI-T doesn't. It depends on why you need a tester isn't it? High amps capability but and missing milliamps capability is not for everyone is it? Both have something the other doesn't but only the Brymen wins? I then gave up after you criticised the UNI-T for no ability to do micro amps through the leads (fair enough)..but neither does the 037! Then you just say but the 039 does.. LOL not the one you are comparing here. OMG

How easy is the UNI-T meter for left handed operation? It looks awkward.

@Okurka.

Жыл бұрын

Left-handed people are awkward.

Don't forget to zero the meter

Crystal bigger than MCU!

Ah sh..t here we go again.

👏🙏👍✌️👏

Bryman appears to win outright

@Okurka.

Жыл бұрын

It's more than twice the price.

biased against the selector 🙂

LOL, talk about being undermined with tons of "confirmation bias". its sounds like your trying to convince yourself Dave. (its much better, this is better.. yes yes yes, look everybody.. that is definitely better etc etc) If your asking for 100 USD before shipping and VAT.. It gonna be a hardsell with such an entry clamp meter in today's market. its a very basic entry clamp meter the BM037 when all is said and done. a person from fx Denmark wanted to purchase it, the price would be closer to 200 USD after shipping and +25% VAT of both shipping and product, + a VAT handling fee of 25USD. its a sub 45USD clamp meter, and that solely from the Brymen label, without it its more like half of that, and put that into perspective with the UnitT210E that many people fgot for 25 to 30USD delivered thrueout the last 5 to 6 years and that unit has 1mA res and just seems better build with thicker plastic and dual rubber molding. the only think this BM037 has going for it, is the Brymen label, and now you want to add a EEVblog label.. maybe that is enough.

I'm not buying what they told you about needing bryman on the front or it will lose certification. What "certification" will it lose. I'm skeptical. Maybe on the back it could say "manufactured by Bryman For EEVblog," but I don't think the branding on the front, if anything at all, is necessary. Also, the uni t firmware having seems to be more difficult and more obscure than customizing the firmware of something like the TS80 soldering iron. So I don't think it's a legitimate feature.

Am I first for a Dave Jones video?

biased af

uni-t meters in my experience are not reliable, they die on you

Mkey, now german. Mf youtube devs fucked up sg again.

First comment!

@jessiepooch

Жыл бұрын

Don't be such a clown Nic.

Totally biased review. Just a paid spokesperson for the Brymen brand. . Lost all respect for this reviewer. Why don't you just tattoo Brymen on your forehead and be done with it? Shameless.

I hate it, when people tell you have to screw in the false direction to get the screw on the plastic thread. Threads are 360 degree, it always lays on a thread, nomatter how you put the screw in. The only reason it makes the sound by turning it in the false directionis because it jumps from the highest thread to the next. If the thread is damaged and the screw doesnt lay on the highest thread, then turning it backwards wouldnt be helping eather. Instead you damage the highest thread or make it worse.

@jessiepooch

Жыл бұрын

Nope

@wbfaulk

Жыл бұрын

If you turn it backwards, you get more engagement with the existing threads, which means you're more likely to get the screw in the correct axial orientation. It's pretty easy to recut plastic threads when it's started pointing in the wrong direction, especially since the screw is intended to cut threads.

For measuring perrisitic losses the uni-t with just a 100 amp current measurement has better sensitivity . Good for car repairs .🚙🚙🚙🚙🚘🚗🚖🛻🚚🚛