Great to see another video! I will have to try out this method the next time I'm imaging. Thanks Ian!

Very thorough and complete Ian. Nice!

Thanks Ian! I always enjoy your tutorials. Easy to follow along and to the point.

@LonelySpeck

6 жыл бұрын

Hey Aaron! Thanks for the shout out!

Ian, so good to see another of your vids!!! TY. I have been bitten by the Pano bug for astro (but really everything), and this was just ideal to see your workflow and how you use it...so helpful. Keep them coming!

Always happy to see a new video from you. Thanks for this one, I've been thinking about trying this for some time now. Great job as always.

@LonelySpeck

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks Tony!

This tutorial has been the most helpful tutorial I have ever come accross for Milky Way shooting. Just the hot pixel removal was life changing for me. Also, I had been trying to figure out the best sequence to shooting MW panoramas and this video answered that. Thank you!

this is exactly what I've been looking for a tutorial for, thanks!

You're awesome, man! Thank's for sharing your knowledge 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

WoW 🤩! I’ll listen to this many, many times … this is AWESOME 👏👏👏👏👏

Love these tutorials! Thanks

You are the best! Thanks for helping me take my shots to the next level!

Awesome. A very well done tutorial. Thanks.

Awesome tutorial! I like it! Hope to see more fun stuff like this!! :D

Super interesting tutorial! Thank you!

Awesome tutorial, crazy to see the workflows before more advance masking features were added but just a ton of great tips in here.

I’ve been eagerly waiting for another one of your videos, thanks Ian! These tutorials are so helpful.

@LonelySpeck

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks Octavo!

@garrymee589

6 жыл бұрын

Great tutorial Ian, im interested in astro pano work. And all issued cover by you are very much where I'm at. Many thanks

Wonderful video and information. Thanks so much!

Thanks Ian - Great tutorial! That's just the ticket, well explained and easy to follow (Y)

Finally!!! Ian, please make more videos, I love to se you nightscape videos!! Have a awesome weekend! - iLofoten Photo

@LonelySpeck

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Pretty nice tut. Thumbs up!

very great video with detail steps from shooting to editing. I learn a lot from your videos ^.^

This was sooooo helpful. Thank you. 🙏🏼

Great video, thanks Ian! Using dark frames would help to further reduce noise without having to use NR so heavily

Seeing the notification announcing your video made my day! Great video Ian

excellent tutorial, thanks!

Awesome. always love it when I get that rare push notification on my phone that you have a new video up! Great work!

@LonelySpeck

6 жыл бұрын

I feel so privileged to hear that! --Ian

@RoadtrippinwithTakacs

6 жыл бұрын

Lonely Speck It's so true! Keep it up. Your videos are excellent. 👍

Very well described. Thank you.

Very helpful Tutorial Ian.. Sterling work .. Just starting my journey with Astro photography .. Already had some great results . However always looking to refine and search for perfection...Very much appreciated.. Subbed..

Awesome work thanks for sharing

big,big thanks!

Really helped me😃😃 Great video and exelent photo😊

Hi Ian... love your videos. Seems you have stopped making them...? Please start again you are amazing!

Great video! Recently bought an A6000 and Samyang 12mm f2.0, A couple of cheap 35 and 55mm lens too (Meike f1.7 and f2.0 although not sure of astro capabilities). Your blog and these videos are a great help! I of course wanted the a7s but budget and being my first camera I didn't want to totally break the bank. I had a small play in my light polluted village the other night but fighting moonlight it was difficult work and I focused on the ETTR technique. I did take a few exposures but now need to look at stacking them to see what happens so thanks for the tips :). Keep it up!

@LonelySpeck

6 жыл бұрын

Definitely delve into some stacking if you have not already! The quality improvement from the noise reduction can be like buying a new lens.

Loving your tutorials, they are immensely helpful. I'm wondering how you were able to get the pin to appear that you were able to pinpoint custom axis locations for alignment. When I go into free transform that pin does not show up. TIA.

brilliant

Great tutorial thanks a lot Ian! Do you simply focus on the stars for all your images ? If so, how do you manage to also get your immediate foreground in focus at 55mm f/2.8?

Great video as always, Ian. Could you do a tutorial on polar alignment? I'm having issues with my tracking mount for exposures longer than 45 seconds and I have a feeling its because I'm not aligning properly

Great video. Curious as to the technique you use for the multi row without a gimbal.

Ian, Thanks for a very useful tutorial. I plan to experiment with a shoot of the MW in a couple of weeks from a location up on a portion of the Pacific Crest Trail overlooking the Emigrant Basin Wilderness at about 11,000 feet in elevation. Quick question: I noted your samples were referencing Alabama Hills - so, shot down near Lone Pine, California??? Thanks again.

You're a fucking master. Your videos is amazing, and make me dig into the Astrophotography. Keep the good job.

Fire

Have you used a Star Tracker yet? I bought one earlier this year, and it's made a massive difference in my Milky Way photos. No more noise, amp glow, or photo stacking!

Hi Ian. Great video. With your setup, how do you adjust the camera vertically to get more than the single row?

Excellent tutorial, did you pick a high ISO and short shutter speed to reduce the time between the first and final shots and therefore reduce star requirement for star alignment?

SUBSCRIBED! Brilliant video. I currently have for my setup the A7rii, Batis 18mm 2.8 and Zeiss 55 1.8 - Pros and Cons for switching my body from A7rii to A7s or A7sii?

Yay, new video! Ian, how come you don't have a Patreon page? I would totally support your channel there!

@LonelySpeck

6 жыл бұрын

hmm, I guess I've never thought of it. I'll check it out and maybe set one up.

@andreashoherz2055

6 жыл бұрын

good idea, I'd also donate ... I learned so much on your channel, thanks!

@FRZNGLSRBM

6 жыл бұрын

I'd support you, too. Just looked if you have one. 😁

@miklschmidt

6 жыл бұрын

Yup, count me in!

The pano stuff you are using has a better price point than Really Right Stuff, thats great. You describe all your setup both here and in your gear of the year review, but you did not mention one piece that is in between the indexed rotator and the nodal slide. Is that a small ball head?

Sequator is excellent ( and free) for PC users to stack stars..

How did you take the multi row pano without a gimbal head?

U def got a sub from me. Great information. I assume u can also merge in Photoshop CC as a pano but still save as a DNG or Raw file in order to still edit the image? Thnx

please upload another video, can you please please please do one about astro with the a6000. ive been saving up for a a6000 for 4 years now and im nearly there! i would love to see an astro review on it please please please due to the fact that there are no other videos about it anywhere on youtube. thanks a dozen! liam

We haven’t seen a video posted in a while. Hoping everything is going great?

Tutorial is excellent as always. One Question. You take your RAW files, export then to TIFFs. Combine the stacks and convert back to a DNG. This DNG is no longer a true RAW file then? Is that the case? What are you loosing from this method?

Hey Ian, after watching your video again. How come you never use dark frames on your astro photos. I mainly shoot with a Nikon D3300 which always has this pinkish look you're talking about; especially on the edges of the photos. Dark frames eliminate all of this plus reduces some noise, too.

Is there any sort of external power that can be used to operate the camera for all night sessions in lieu of just using the cameras provided battery? I have a Can 5D Mark iv

Interesting techniques. A couple questions: 1. Why not use a star tracker mount? You spend a lot of time denoising in post and money on ways to avoid it when its a tool that works well. The problem is you just arent capturing enough light at 5.0 sec exposures @2.8. You are cranking your iso ridiculously high to compensate but thats only a post process. Its not real exposure. Exposure is light and time. Exposure is king. This rule is no more the case than in astrophotography. 2. For the foreground, why not take a separate panoramic long exposure and then stack it as a revealed mask aligned layer with your sky pano? You could get a hotter exposure and lower ISO. The details of your foreground would be much better because lower noise and the details pushed further up. Not saying your results are bad just that they definitely could be better. I really love the 50mm lens you are using its a stellar lens. It can resolve way more detail than what your 12MP sensor is allowing. Get that sucker on a 42MP sensor dude!

Thanks Ian for an excellent tutorial. I will be trying Astrophotography for the first time ever in few weeks. One question - How did you mount your camera in vertical (portrait) alignment to the nodal slide without a vertical rail? Is there any special attachment that enables such a mount?

@DiegoTerzano

6 жыл бұрын

I believe he is using an L Plate to mount the camera onto the Nodal slide. Something like this: a.co/bzu4Utd

Quick question: when stitching the stacked frames, do you stack the overlapped portions of the frames? You see, in the overlapped 50% of every shot you actually have information in 8 photos instead of just 4. That would reduce noise even further, wouldn't it?

Could you do this with longer exposure of the foreground? Would you do it the same way in the video or perhaps do what you did in the video and then take extra photos of the ground with a longer exposure? Then clean the photos

Noob question.....is there a specific mount or plate to hold the camera vertical/90 degrees on a tripod?

Ian, are you just guesstimating where the nodal point on that 55mm lens is just to get some reduction of parallax error, or did you know the exact nodal point and how far to slide it back? I'm trying to find out the exact nodal point on the lens to use with a slide too.

@LonelySpeck

6 жыл бұрын

nykwan1 I did a parallax test to find the nodal point. That's a bit of a tutorial in itself... I think I'll try to whip something up but in the meanwhile a Google search should help you along.

how did you decide your exposure time?

This seems like a great tutorial, but I'm missing the commands you have in your software (2019). In Lightroom I don't have the option to "Edit as layers in Photoshop" so I opened each image in Ps then copy-and-pasted each one as a separate layer in one session. Then in Ps I don't have the option under Edit to "Auto-blend layers" .. so I'm a bit stumped. Do you know if these are called something else these days, and accessed somewhere else in the software? I'm using Ps CC 19.1.7 and Ls CC 2.2.

For anyone looking for a pano head, I purchased a Nodal Ninja 6 to use for 360 photos and panos. It allows you to do multi-row panos and of course 360 photos. I've done several 360 astro photos so far which have turned out pretty cool. If you think you might want to do 360 photos eventually, but also use it for panos, I would recommend the Nodal Ninja 6. Some example 360 photos here - www.flickr.com/photos/neal_grosskopf/albums/72157682664764513

@LonelySpeck

6 жыл бұрын

Ah yes, the NN6 is probably my next step. I'd love to do some larger panos with it. Not having a vertical axis makes more than about 3-4 rows a but cumbersome.

I do not know where to write, so I apologize in advance for offtop and for bad English, because I translate using google. Hello from Russia)) I wanted to ask if you used stabilizers for shooting timelapses. Recently learned that zhiyun crane added a new feature, "NightLapse" to his stabilizer. This is a very interesting topic, could you make a review or write your opinion about it?

Are the lightroom adjustments necessary to do before the stacking? The reason I ask is because most astrophotographers agree that it is better to stack RAW photos before making adjustments for better accuracy of details like color. By then saving as a TIFF, you are effectively taking it out of a RAW or linear state. The errors compound after that, albeit, very minimally between a RAW and a TIFF. I suspect that panoramas are more artifact free and create a final image with fewer distortions if the vignetting is first corrected. Is this why the adjustments were done first before stacking and is it necessary to save as a TIFF when you can still save in the RAW format after adjustments? Sorry for the confusing questions but its hard not to sound confused when you are confused!

Very instructive video, thank you. But ... with your tripod, levelling base, rotator, nodal slider, l-bracket, camera setup, how do you point the camera up and/or down for the two overlapping rows, and how do you ensure the horizon remains straight after you've pointed the camera up or down?

@LonelySpeck

Жыл бұрын

As long as the leveling base is properly leveled, the camera will always maintain a level horizon, regardless of the tilt or pan position of the pan-tilt head.

@rodneytopor1846

Жыл бұрын

@@LonelySpeck Thank you. I didn't notice that you had a tilt-able ball head between the rotator and the nodal slider. I understand now.

@LonelySpeck

Жыл бұрын

I have an updated guide on the panorama head that I use here: www.lonelyspeck.com/diy-building-your-own-large-format-panorama-head/

@rodneytopor1846

Жыл бұрын

@@LonelySpeck That's a wonderful guide. Thank you!!!

Maybe longer exposures and lower ISO to fix the noise issue?

Hey Ian, I really enjoy your videos about taking night sky pictures. What kind of a timer you use or you can recomend to take timelapses ( With an a7 Camera) on a tripod with out moving the camera on slider or some thing else? Thanks for the great content :)

@TKettle

6 жыл бұрын

The A7 has a timelapse app that you can download for 10 bucks. Cheaper than buying an intervalometer, and does a decent enough job if you practice with it a little.

@eugenepictures6950

6 жыл бұрын

I known the apps for Camera only on my Sony RX100 M5 can you told me there i can get it or how ? I'm new using a A7 III.

@TKettle

6 жыл бұрын

I have an A7II, so I don't know if it will be exactly the same, but on mine, I open the menu, go to the application page (the 4 squares), "Application list", "Playmemories Camera Apps", then find the time lapse app and download. Then it will be in your applications list. BEFORE you do any of this though, you want to set up a Sony Playmemories account on your computer and put your card info in, so you can buy it from the camera.

@eugenepictures6950

6 жыл бұрын

This Sony play Memories App's are not avilible for the Sony a7 3 Series :( I known there work only on 6000 series and the smaler one Camera's. Thanks for reply me :)

@TKettle

6 жыл бұрын

Oh yeah I think I remember hearing that they got rid of apps on the new camera. Bummer. Well, you could get an intervalometer for about $25, or, you could connect your phone to it with one of these. amazon.com/dp/B074DZ7NK2 if you use that, I think you can do exposure tracking so you can shoot a timelapse from day to night. A standard intervalometer remote can't do that.

Thanks Lonely. It was very helpful to study. But If you give me yopur sample files, I can study them actually.

I guess i don't know that cameras sensor range is but 12,500 iso seems high . Like 6400 makes more sense

Get a tracker. Saves both shooting and processing time and generates much cleaner photos.

@LonelySpeck

6 жыл бұрын

Ah yes. I used a tracker for a season and decided that I preferred the workflow and quality I could get untracked. Less equipment, less setup time, less cost and there are actually distinct advantages to the untracked stacks as the sky exposures get natural dithering from the movement of the earth, making it even better than tracked exposures at eliminating fixed pattern noise in the sky.

If we do more than 2 rows panorama , Ps and Lr will struggle stitching the images? providing that we do overlap at least 50% in each shot vertically.

@LonelySpeck

3 жыл бұрын

Since there is not input control on PS and LR stitching modes, the more images, the more likely they are to fail auto stitching. If you need more control for large panos, I suggest PTGui Pro.

@akkarparkiamopas3401

3 жыл бұрын

@@LonelySpeck thanks Ian

3:07 Oh that's why my image looks terrible when stitched. I forgot a small detail that play huge roll: WHITE BALANCE.

Is the exposure settings the same on every group?

@LonelySpeck

4 жыл бұрын

Yes, same exposure setting for every photo

Hey are you still replying to this yrb channel i got a question for you !

If at 5:58 you are exporting with ProPhoto RBG as your colour space to preserve maximum gamut, shouldn't you also set your camera to AdobeRBG, rather than sRBG (with its narrower gamut)? By setting the A7S to AdobeRBG, the filenames would start with an underscore character *_* - but yours don't.

@GioFar

6 жыл бұрын

A bit late but, setting sRGB and Adobe RGB will bake the colours space only on jpg, not raws.

Why did you stop making videos?

thats a lot of effort to be honest :D and the final result doesnt actually differ too much as if you shot one single shot for each position. if you increase the expsosure the sky will move more within the Frames, but can you not just compensate this by shooting a larger area, lets say 2x7? the other Thing is, with all the Software we are able to get, do we really need ISO-Monster like a7s, a7sII, a7III and all the models from other other manufacturers? of course it makes life easier but is it really worth it?

@jensdanbolt6953

5 жыл бұрын

Agreed, this is way overkill for most people and is way too specific. Any decently sturdy tripod with a good, wide aperture lens will do, just be aware that you need to work around misalignment, vignetting and so on. Check beforehand if your lens has significant vignetting or distortion, and whether your tripod head doesn't always stay level. If you know the characteristics of your lens and tripod, these things are quite easy to work around and correct for. All this gear he shows off eliminates all of these issues, but if you know the basics and your gear well enough then you don't need any of this.

RIP Ian

@LonelySpeck

4 жыл бұрын

New videos incoming.

@vedantgoydani8402

4 жыл бұрын

@@LonelySpeck Yay!

Why did you use a shutter of just 5 sec and not 25

@stekovi

5 жыл бұрын

Because he was using a 50mm. 25s would have had considerable star trailing

back to sony?? :)

@LonelySpeck

6 жыл бұрын

Haha, I never left my a7S. Pretty disappointed that the newest bodies are still star eaters...

I get a headache when someone's messing around in a picture like that. Something like this can only happen if you are too happy and don't need to extract the smallest amount of information from the pictures. The dust and scratches filter is quite a disaster for fine details and there are much smarter ways to suppress hotpixels, which cause almost no artifacts.

Hello?

That is not a Desmond DLEVX Leveler , just saying

Thanks for another great informative video Ian +1 from me about at patreon page too.

Dead channel?