You are a complete legend. Thanks so much for all you tutorials. I think i have the right to say this as you uploaded this on my birthday. That is all

@DiyguitarpedalsAu

10 жыл бұрын

Thanks Jarrod, hope it helped mate! (Happy bday for the 9th of may :D)

Great info, thanks mate!

Hey man. You print onto the decal first, then clearcoat over the printed artwork. Apply to the enclosure, then clearcoat over the decal + pedal. The reason you clearcoat of inkjet printed graphics is because inkjet ink is water soluable and will wash off when you immerse it in water. You dont have to do this step with laserjet decals because laserjet toner is not water soluable. Hope that clear it up for you!

Thanks Paul ,for showing how its done. What can I use to seal it on the enclosure . It reminds me of when I applied a Strat head stock decal .

Brilliant! Thanks so much.

This is a great demo! I have found that using a slightly moistened playing card can smooth out wrinkles in one go. Just thought I'd share.

Thanks! Good tip! I'll give it a go next time!

Nice vid mate

Some dust / dirt spots will show through, once you add another X number of layers on top of them, they become more obviously. Really depends how bad they look, you might be able to inconspicuously sand off the dust? I have never sanded on the last coat of colour so I'm not 100% sure whether you will see the sanding marks

If you want to get ridge of the decal edge you have to use heat which will also help bond the decal to the pedal. I put my pedals in the oven. Just don't set it too hot. If I had a heat gun I'd experiment with that.

great tutorial!!!!!!!!

@DiyguitarpedalsAu

8 жыл бұрын

+Diego Castioni THanks Diego

I think alot of the visible edge problems arise because of the extra layer of clearcoat needed with inkjet decals. Its always been the issue i've had, but its quite possible im packing it on too thick! Thanks for the compliment.

Thank you! Do you use glossy or matte clear coat?

Cheers mate & thanks for the sub! I have read laserjet decal paper may be more resistant to browning then inkjet (as the laser printer has a fuser in it). Dont need to print in reverse manner, just print as normal. The only paint / powder you should cover the decal with is clear, other wise you wont be able to see the decal! I buy my WS decal paper from a seller on ebay unfortunately i think the seller has stopped selling it it!! good luck!

hey man, nice tutorial!! how do you make the decal to be exactly the size of the enclosure?

Thats exactly the sort of result you want! nice! Let me ask, did you use a laserjet? I've found they turn out with no edges consistantly.

Hey Paul. what about laserjet paper? I used on my telecaster and you don't need to clear coat, it worked quite well. on this video you've showed an example with no much of graphics on it.Would not be easier to cut the little words and attach them separately? maybe it would shows the edges after clear coat? do you see an advantage of printing the entire enclosure in one entire decal? cheers

No problem, thanks for the comment.

What about using toner transfer method like when you make pcbs?

Do you think it would be ok if I applied the decal and clearcoated, and then drilled? The problem is that I bought the enclosure pre-painted, and drilling it leaves a really jagged edge that would lift up the decal.

thanks! Print it off on plain paper and hold up the plain paper over the enclosure to a back light.

Very helpful tutorial. Just a quick question. I have been reading that if using an inkjet printer its wise to clear coat the deal before putting into water. If I use a laser printer and the laserjet decal paper, then I don't need to clear coat the decal before I immerse it in water - is this correct? Many thanks. Iain

I've only ever had one come off (my first attemp) buecause i didnt apply it correctly and i didnt put enought clear coat on it. It was a bit of a disaster. Never had problems with any of the others ive made since then though.

Cheers, hope it helps and good luck!

I’ve been trying to do this recently and for some reason when I try to apply it it doesn’t let me move the decal around as one piece it tends to stick and crinkle. Anything I can do to fix this?

Should I clearcoat the enclosure before applying the decal paper?

Wow. Thats pretty intense lol

But I was wondering if i should through a coat on beforehand too?

can I use an activator on it?

correct. If you put an inkjet decal into water, the ink will wash right off, so you need to clearcaot it to protect. laserjet toner is like a plastic, it wont wash off (so you don't need the layer of clearcoat).

Can you PLEASE TELL ME HOW DID YOU GET 4 OF THOSE ON ONE PAPER??? Im going nuts figuring it out. I cant for the life of me.

You could probably do it on a bear enclosure, infact i recall seeing a thread about this recently. Prob have to be a polished enclosure. Paints obviously going to melt.

I believe pappilo is a common choice (ive read on the forums in the past other people having success with it). Havent tried etching (yet).

laserjet decals do not have the 'edge' problem as inkjets do because of the extra layer of clearcoat. I don't see the advantage of sticking each word separately.

I get mine from a (aus) seller on ebay called "sounds-creative". Not sure if the ship internationally though. Maybe ask your question on diysb if you are stuck for a supplier. GL!

I have now had 3 unsuccessful attempts - needless to say, I am very frustrated. I have followed all tutorials meticulously using exact materials and methods etc. Its bizarre. I have narrowed it down to two possible problems. Either I have poor quality decal paper that warps and shrinks as it dries, or there is a problem with the surface of the pre painted 1590BB's I am buying. Before putting the decal paper into water, I give it a light spray of acrylic clear coat and allow it to dry. There is no negative reactions, and it dries out nice and smooth. Then I put the decal in the water - all good. Then I apply the decal to the surface of my white 1590BB. At first, looks superb. I then push out the bubbles, water and wrinkles. Then as it begins to dry, the whole surface begins to look 'cracked' with wrinkles all over. Like the way old dried out leather goes. When its dried I re-apply acrylic clear coat spray, and the bad reaction is worsened. I've ruled out the spray. Its as though the decal does not like the surface. Today I might try applying blank decals to random surfaces to see how they dry out. This is very frustrating and I am interested in hearing from others with the problem. So far, I haven't had luck on other message boards. Have you (or anyone else) tried other methods - ie clear transparent stickers? I would guess it would look a little more obvious though. Thanks for your help and time, Steve. 

Thanks! Well i use Adobe Fireworks but its not free (i use it for web stuff as well). Most people use GIMP, its a png editor and its free. GL

Haha, it's cool, thanks anyway. I went for it, they're drying in the shed. I guess I'll find out soon enough if it works!

No problem. Not in the short term but dont be surprised if you see one in the future. I will need to learn a free png editor to make it worthwhile for everyone.

I use Adobe Fireworks because im familar with it. Alot of people use Inkscape or any free png editor.

Here in Germany you can get problems with that. You need a License to sell things like that and another license for.. "taking back the thrash you sell" (dont know a better english description) and a ceee registration (enviromental thing) and so on and so on :D

Thats a problem i have had. There are a couple of things you can do to minimise it. Sharp drill bit and painters tape can 'help'. Do a search on my channel, a video called "Drilling Pre-finished Enclosures (DIY Guitar Pedals)"

You should clearcoat after you apply the decal

gloss enamel

Um was said 245x

Why on earth would it be illegal? Ive designed the PCB myself, its my own circuit, my own construction? You cant use someone elses PCB. Or use trademark names to advertise your pedal. But if you design your own PCB and dont advertise it as a cheap knock of of someone elses circuit, your fine...

getting rid of the decal ridge is easy. Just load clear over the top and sand it down. gone.

Isnt it illegal for you to sell these? Here in Germany its f*cking illegal and you can get sued etc..

Three light coats... of what? Wouldn't that be a thing to mention in a tutorial?

@DiyguitarpedalsAu

10 жыл бұрын

Clear coat because you asked so nicely

@hadley101

9 жыл бұрын

DIY Guitar Pedals Wow, you said clear coat three times before you got to the point of where Bonzilac seemed to lose focus. Don't know how you are able to respond so calmly to some people who you can't help even if you try. Thanks for making these videos mate.

Oh i see....to be honest. never tried that, wouldnt have a clue of the results you will get, sorry.

man you do it wrong, first you have to put spray clean coat on the decal paper, than you have to put the decal on the pedal

This dude keeps smacking his lips...LOL. Pretty bizarre I must say.