I bought an old RCA 1600 for $9. The sound went out shortly after I got it. The exciter lamp worked but the sound was extremely tinny and barely audible with the volume turned all the way up. A little research revealed that these projectors were known for their unreliable amps and I don’t know enough about electronics to repair it. I opened the machine up and found the shielded coaxial cable connecting the photocell to the amp. I unsoldered it from the amp board and connected it to the input of my guitar amp. It instantly produced big bold sound! To make a permanent connection I disconnected the amp’s output from the 1/4 inch phone jack for the loudspeaker, rerouted the coax to the jack and soldered it on. Now the jack is a photocell out not a speaker out and I can connect it to the guitar amp with a conventional guitar cord. The output gain of the photocell is nearly identical to a dynamic microphone, so it doesn’t have the gain needed for a line level input. It sounds great in the hi impedance unbalanced mic input on my acoustic guitar amp.

I have an exciter lamp that won't light on my B&H FoS and I was really glad to have the information for further testing. One further test is run the projector with the exciter lamp pulled and shine a bright penlight into the optical tube and if you get sound.... well that's something. I do get sound that way; so the amp isn't completely shot. And the exciter lamp and fuse have continuity. So now, armed with your video, I can probably resolder errant diodes. Or, as one of your commentors said, the board is rebuildable.

Thanks for this video. I have an EIKI NT-0 that works beautifully - except for the sound. No light. Fuse is good so I'm working my way towards checking on or repairing the amp - seems to be similar. I actually also own two other 16mm projects - both are not working for various reasons but haven't dug into them yet. I think they are both B&H - a 1592 and a 2580 model. I want to get at least one working - I have some awesome old Disney B&W cartoons - about 20 of them, a couple of John Wayne's and other films to show.

pretty good video, but it also sounds like that dreaded worm gear is very noisy, and needs to be replaced.

I have a 1692 model. The exciter lamp went first then the whole thing went. Replaced fuse which is on the outside. Projector goes. Still no exiter. Yet to open it up. Thanks

Hey Mike, thanks for the video, was very useful! I was wondering if you plan to upload one on bell and howell projector's maintenance and cleaning

@mp5802

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Actually, there's little or no maintenance on a B&H 16mm projector. Inside, the bearings are permanently sealed. Yes, there's some grease on the sprocket and drive gears and an oil wick above the sprocket cam, but that's about it. Truly, those typically only get cleaned and lubed during complete disassembly, like when one installs a new worm gear in. Outside, the film path (guides, aperture and pressure plate should be brushed out and wiped down with a clean cloth with a little alcohol after running old films, but never oil these parts. If you run a lot of films (I don't), use a good film conditioner on them. Refer to pages 22-24 in this typical owners manual: www.film-tech.com/warehouse/manuals/BH258525902592OPER.pdf

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@@mp5802 I see, thanks! I just got one from a yard sale, and it was a little dirty, that was the reason I was asking. Another question, what can be the reason of perforations breaking when going backwards?

@mp5802

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@ These projectors and 16mm films are typically 35-60 years old or more. Like my 71 y.o. body, many of the parts are worn out (and parts are hard to come by). Most film enthusiasts NEVER run films backwards just for that reason. It's best to run films to the end then rewind them, preferably on a manual rewinder, looking for worn/broken perforations that need to be mended or spliced. Most commercial films had "do not rewind" labels affixed precisely for that reason. Many vintage films are worth more than a projector. I'm late to this hobby, and I don't run film much anymore. If you want to learn from the original experts, go to 16mmfilmtalk.com/ for years and years of topics and solutions. Please don't barge in with a bunch of newbie questions at first, but use the search first to find solutions already posted. I learned a lot from this forum. BTW, these guys are dying off fast, and many of the best posts are from deceased members. Best of luck!

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@@mp5802 Thanks Mike, learned something new today!

One could also rebuild that amp by finding a schematic and ordering the new component values. Sometimes the caps leak, diodes go bad, and resistors go out of tolerance over the years

@praestant8

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No schematic required, just replace like for like.

mike, did you repair the amp you removed?

@mp5802

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Nope. Maybe, someday.

Now do the model with a tube amp. Please. I can send you mine! ;-)

Those electrolytic capacitors, not condensors there is no condensing happening here, really should be replaced. These are very rebuildable cards.