Training Endurance On A System Board
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Climbers typically think that endurance can only be completed in a few ways; on a route, a circuit board, horizontal traversing or some kind of sub maximal fingerboard protocol. In a way, this belief and practice is a function of what works best and also what tools climbers typically have at their disposal. Some of you however, may only have access to system boards (homemade, Moon, Kilter, Tension Board etc) or bouldering walls that don't easily allow for a lot of terrain to be covered at the right intensity. In a nutshell, if you complete more than a couple of minutes of climbing on this terrain you're going to be close to failing! We certainly don't want this for endurance sessions...
This is where we get Ollie Torr to step in and explain how we do things!
1. Feet on the ground "French traversing" is our favourite, simple way of reducing the intensity. Yes, it may look a bit silly, but it's REALLY effective! It works well on anything from 20-60 degrees overhanging.
2. Beef those holds up! Get a nice selection of bigger holds on your wall or if you're in a commercial wall choose the sections of wall with the largest holds.
3. Aerobic Capacity training in an "high intensity interval" style, where you break your climbing down into much shorter blocks and run multiple reps/sets of them. You'll have less issues with metabolites building up in the forearm and you'll be able to complete much more volume in your session by using this. The key is in keeping the work blocks short... you really must stay away from intervals too much longer than 1 minute if unfit or the intensity relatively high and up to 2 or 3 mins if you're fit and the intensity is lower.
Don't forget that all of this is available for free on our Crimpd App!
Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: latticetraining.com/plans/
Download the Crimpd App:
App store - itunes.apple.com/us/app/crimp...
Google Play - play.google.com/store/apps/de...
Пікірлер: 15
You can also pick a height on the board and points on the ground to determine the degrees "overhang" that you're climbing when feet are on the floor. That way you can roughly gauge how difficult the training is and potentially progress. My home wall is 35 degrees overhanging and I've got markers for 10, 15, 20, and 25 degrees to help me gauge intensity well.
The first exercise u showed looks like a great way to work through finger tendon injury. Will try. Thanks!
@LatticeTraining
3 жыл бұрын
Paweł Ziemiański ah yes, it’s a useful tool for that...
thanks for the tips :) i think this is also a good way to get used to a system board as a beginner
Love all your vids, but this is one of the best! Keep showing off the app while you speak, it really helps and will encourage app usage!
This is absolutely amazing. What an eye-opener. I have a 60° circuit board with quite a lot of crimps that I've hardly ever used. Just putting my feet on the ground, I've been using holds as underclings, side-pulls, bi-doigts, you name it. This just increases the number of possible moves by a factor of 2-3. I'm using a weighted vest now to increase the difficulty. Thx a lot guys. Keep up the good work.
Really helpful thank you. My body just can't handle climbing on the steep home board every day full force. I felt some of this pump when just "feeling holds" trying to make circuits. Interesting to see you use it as a real exercise. I'm excited to try it.
@jsparger
3 жыл бұрын
Just to report back, I did 15 cycles of minute on, minute off on a 40 degree home board. I got really really pumped and even fell off a few times (imagine falling off while standing on the ground!). I have never trained for endurance before, so I don't know if this is effective. But if getting pumped is the goal, this works.
Oh I just tweaked my knee a little bit so this might just be the perfect alternative for today's boulder session! Thank you!
Great ideas. Thanks.
I'm quite familiar with how forearm pump feels like, but could you guys elaborate and give some physical hints on how being "powered out" feels? I just want to know what I should be looking to in order to know I'm training at the right intensity
I dont understand the "powering out" part. How can you power out without having a pump? As a beginner, am I always going to have a pump by the time I power out, or am I doing something wrong if I do?
Can we get a power endurance one
Hey Lattice, just wondering if you guys could do a video or write up on your thoughts about ice climbing training. I would love to hear your thoughts of which of your programs would be suited and staple exercises. I follow components of your training (7/3 x6 x10 rounds) on ice tools rather than 20mm edge, and do things like 30 second max hangs. I do several other things as recommended by training of the new alpinism, Will Gadds book, and various other things I've found online. There's a lot more info out there about rock training than ice, so it would be great to hear another professional opinion on training for it.
@LatticeTraining
3 жыл бұрын
Jim Jimmah we don’t really have any expertise in ice climbing I’m afraid!