Another tip is let it idle a few minutes before shutdown,to cool the turbocharger valves and pistons

@headhunter306

4 жыл бұрын

This could actually help all motors but no one does it

@centuryfreud

4 жыл бұрын

Yup! I do it all the time. Service manual says 2 minutes minimum.

@tenawilson2409

4 жыл бұрын

Get a chip and it will do it for you

@Bos742

4 жыл бұрын

Mr Wilson - a chip? I think a turbo timer will do it but I dunno what this “chip” is

@customerservice5088

4 жыл бұрын

walmart $3/gal www.walmart.com/ip/DEF-Diesel-Exhaust-Fluid-2-Jug-Bundle/384243022 free shipping

Cheers bro thanks for taking the time to share all the best.

Outstanding job at explaining what not to do to a Diesel engine thank you for the advice we need more people like you to release that knowledge we all diesel owners need that information specially when we are in a tied budget thank you again friend

Thank you for this information. I am new to diesel engine ownership. I bought a 2000 7.3 Ford 250. I am learning about these engines as I go.

Great points..I used either a few times when I got my first IDI diesel but it was through the air filter..luckily no damage occurred that I know of...gosh was I diesel dumb back then haha!

@michaelbenoit248

3 жыл бұрын

If you use ether do a short shot of it before starting, & TURN OFF the glow plugs. If your glow plugs are turned off it won’t pre-ignite, & do damage. Fowled glow plugs doesn’t count as turned off glow plugs. Any idi w good glow plugs will start without ether, I’ve never used ether on her, & hope I never do. If you need a starting aid use WD40.

One thing I've learned to do, especially in cold weather (like here in Canada) is that if it's going to be idling for awhile, bump the idle speed up to 1000-1100rpm or so, if you're able to set it to do that. It helps keep some heat in the engine and the engine oil, which is good for the engine. I had a truck with a 466 that would drop the temp right off the gauge if you let it idle on cold winter day in about 20 minutes, even after driving it at operating temp. Bumping the idle speed up to 1000 or so helped keep the engine temp closer to where it should be. Also, just don't run them cold in general, running too cold doesn't let the oil heat up enough to work properly and evaporate off contaminants like condensation.

@2fuzy

Жыл бұрын

Upgade exhaust tips lol nothing stupider then a giant exhust tip

Thanks for informative well made vid straight to the point. Cheers brotha.

As a former GM Mr. Goodwrench mechanic, we always used WD 40 instead of starting fluid on diesels. Much safer!!!

@wushock92

4 жыл бұрын

I just heard about this a few weeks ago from Bus Greese Monkey. Who would have thought? Lol

@stevedresen8497

4 жыл бұрын

Good for gas engines too! A "shot" to dry the ignition components (when needed), and another down the intake. The WD-40 isn't just fuel... it can help bring up the compression (by "sealing" rings and valves) in extremely cold AND/OR worn gasoline engines allowing them to start easier.

@donmartin9640

4 жыл бұрын

Starting fluid is like crack to diesel

@Bos742

4 жыл бұрын

Don Martin well except for crackheads don’t spontaneously explode when using it

@carwashadamcooper1538

4 жыл бұрын

@@donmartin9640 yep. Give them one hit and they need it every time.

I have an Espar heater in my 5.9 Cummins so it always is 155F before I start it so I only wait a few minutes for oil to circulate. Reduced idling is always good.

Both my diesel John Deer loader and road grader came from the factory with on-board ether tanks with remote solinoids for cold starting injection systems. And both came with block heaters and very cold days I use both but prefer ether. I rarly use it on my 7.3 for reasons you point out.

You know what your talking about I wish more people followed those precautions

Thanks for bringing up the ether do not use. So far you are the only one I’ve seen mention this issue. One thing I do is if needed assistance is required I use WD-40 instead or if possible pour a tiny bit of diesel into the intake manifold and lite it on fire then crank the engine vary effective

@TIMEtoRIDE900

Жыл бұрын

You cant lite Diesel on fire

Four 7.3ltrs 4 aux (secondary) manual Glow Plug switches all still workin fine. The only control pre 99' (SUPER DUTY) Is the size of the wires. The computer cannot control the resistance due to solenoid comes on when pcm goes to ground. Same way I hook my solenoid/switch and switch lights up when glow plugs are on. Lit switch will flash when you have more then one dead plug. A secondary solenoid I control has got my truck started when the factory unit melted down on a frigid below zero day. I also supply more current with larger 6-0 wire. You should get a glow plug and see how long even a 350,000 mi glow plug will go before you are damaging it. Glow plugs will suck the battery dry before getting the element too hot. Figure all the cast iron and fluids it is buried amongst? Be real tough to get it hot enough to carbonize.

Good info! I recently acquired an abandoned sailboat, and there was water inside the Perkins engine and fuel. 4.5 years of abandonment. After cleaning the entire fuel system and bleeding, flooding with Marvel MO, 2 x 20sec cranking, with no effort moving or firing up, i sprayed 1 sec of ether inside the engine and waited 20 sec. It cranked up with a massive tonne of white smoke. Would never do it again, but it got the baby started and hopefully very little of any damage to get it alive again.

I ran a bone stock 91 Dodge Cummins (the ones without the intercooler) and it is fine and another vehicle I got is a 96 Dodge Ram 3500 and I had it for maybe 2 days and the piston ring went on it and it’s parked now and my last vehicle is a 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 with a brand new engine directly from Cummins and it is mint. Thanks for the tips btw

2002 7.3 still strong 💪. Great video thanks for the information. 197,000 on the od. 1979- to what ever GM had garbage 5.7 Lt. engine gas conversion terrible. I did many head gasket repairs. Either the Block had a crak, or the heads were worped GM. I went AIS intake Valvoline Blue 15 w40 year round. Plus extra fuel additive safe of course. 48 is the fuel. Diesel is first to be distilled the gasoline grades come after.

@Rnddiesel

5 жыл бұрын

It sounds like your 7.3 is still running strong! I've only heard bad things about the GM 5.7 diesel. Supposedly it's a common problem for the blocks to crack, they messed up with the casting and didn't let it cool properly or something like that. It stinks that you had to do so may repairs on the 5.7. At least you've got a good 7.3 now!

@Thedoug369

4 жыл бұрын

@@Rnddiesel Im pretty sure the GM 5.7 diesel was based on a standard 350 cubic inch gas engine. I think they actually did go to four bolt mains, but that block was never designed to handle the much higher compression ratios and cylinder pressures that diesels create. These things were born to failure!

@Rnddiesel

4 жыл бұрын

@@Thedoug369 I really don't know all that much about the Olds 5.7 diesel other than its terrible reputation and lack of power. I had the impression that the displacement was the same as a 350 gas engine simply because GM already had the tooling to make everything that size, but that the block and cylinder head makeup was different to account for the diesel cycle. Supposedly if the 350 was just converted to a diesel cycle, it wouldn't have even had a fighting chance of living. The Olds 5.7 was beefed up at least somewhat, but apparently not enough...

@supersteveize

4 жыл бұрын

@@Rnddiesel I read a report years ago about the 5.7 olds Diesel and what it said was that the biggest problem was the fact that the compression levels were not close enough and what it would end up snapping cranks and cracking blocks. cylinder compression with vary from 17 to 1 to 21 to 1 so you can see what would happen there. Once they got the compression levels even the engines held up. My brother had one back in 79 + it ran like scalded dog. Not much good in the mountains though. It could have you used a turbo. It got low twenties for fuel mileage.

Cool deal man. I tuned and deleted my dpf def. I didn’t change my stock tips tho. I didn’t realize that cools down the Egt’s.

Make some good points for people who have never owned a diesel which is a good thing most people that go out and buy a diesel truck have no common sense on how they work warming it up as a very good idea for any vehicle really cause engine parts are made of steel and aluminum nowadays and both those metals heat up at a different rate I like the fact you talked about your Your engine exhaust gassed in other terms your Pyrometer I know these things because I'm a commercial truck driver and all my tracks about all these gages and there to keep an eye on these things another good thing he should tell people is after they have run their truck if they run it hard or were towing let it idle until exhaust gas temp gets down to 300 or below or they could melt the wheels inside the Turbo if you have electric fans with a switch turn them on to help cool down Or you can put an alarm on their with a remote start and a cool down mode and have that cool down mode set for a certain amount of time to let the engine cool down while you're not in the vehicle and the keys on the Ignition I have one on mine and they work very well

My dad used starter spray in his early 97 7.3 and the factory air box blew across the yard. The engine wasn’t damaged but we had to buy after market because the stock ones cost more than after market ones

@Cyrix2k

2 жыл бұрын

LOL, I just bought a 97 7.3, flooded it, and blew the airbox up with ether :-/ $350 on ebay for that air box!

You can also run a lower weight oil to help combat that viscosity issue during cold weather

In my 7.3 I use the Lucas additive & a quart of the heaviest weight oil I can. Max of a 40wt oil. On my 7.3 I never need my glow plugs, so I turned them off, with a switch so if it’s too cold I can turn them on when needed with the relay, I just spliced a switch on the relay that triggers it on the front of the truck. On any diesel put diesel fuel caps, cuz someone is gonna see the cap & put diesel in it.

I have 5.9 dirty Cummins and luv it

Thanks for the great tips!

With your later model gas motors, you can pretty much start em up and haul ass immediately, regardless of outside temp. ( I know, who cares about gassers ) not me for sure, but just some info for the masses.

@juliogonzo2718

3 жыл бұрын

It goes to below -30° here. I run my gasser for like 20 min so I don't have to drive with gloves on. Your power steering pump sounds like a sheep passing a kidney stone when you start your vehicle.

@juliogonzo2718

3 жыл бұрын

Here is me starting a Cummins ISX in the cold. It was plugged in and still made nasty noises kzread.info/dash/bejne/qYGiyZKggdi-gbA.html

I have my glow plugs on my 97 switched on the dash. The reason I do this is to save this new set of Motocraft glow plugs. I’m at 125,000, so with the switch and a standor relay it sure saves on the plugs and batteries. When it’s super cold out one cycle and start, I shut he plugs off and let her warm up. I was curious about what you said regarding the resistance on the glow plugs and the truck monitoring that ? Great info you have! I always thought it was odd that the engine will run the glow plugs if the system voltage goes too high while you in down the road.

@Rnddiesel

5 жыл бұрын

You've got a switch that turns the relay on or off or are you completely bypassing the computer controlled circuitry with the switch to manually engage the relay? 'Monitoring' probably isn't the best term to have used in describing the setup, I probably should have set 'regulating' more or less. For the sake of being more general, some engines have what's called a 'post glow' function. Essentially the glow plug relay is left on for a certain period of time by the computer even after the engine is running. This helps it run better when warming up especially for folks who are less patient about waiting for the truck to be warm enough to drive. The 7.3 psd does this to some extent but it's not as sophisticated as having 'monitoring' capability from my understanding. I could be wrong in that regard, I haven't had the chance to crack into the ECM programming and see how it determines glow plug on time. Based on sensor readings like engine oil temperature, the ECM determines how long the glow plugs should be set on for. This is partially why the wait to start light stays on longer when its colder outside. Glow plug on time is done very carefully to prevent the glowplugs from overheating. You may also notice that the glowplugs may kick off and back on if operating properly. Basically the glow plug control system switches the glow plugs on and off to ensure they don't overheat. If you left your glowplugs switched on for a significant period of time when the engine is running, odds are you'll generate way too much heat in the glow plug and cause serious damage to them. While many modern glow plugs have a self regulating functionality to them, it still isn't good to keep them switched on. You may be able to get by with manually controlling the glow plugs, but for someone who's never done it before and may not know from experience what an adequate amount of time is, odds are they'll mess up the system. I definitely don't feel comfortable enough to manually control the glow plugs because the ideal glow plug on time is a function of temperature, and I don't know what that functional relationship is. Either way the original system is designed to be 'foolproof' or darn near close to it. This way bingo players like up can just turn the key and let the computer handle the proper glow plug on time for cold startup. At least that's my understanding of the system!

Some diesel engines use either for cold start standard for example John Deere and some Caterpillar, so check with the manufacturer recommendation first though because major damage like cracked pistons may occur.

An intake heater is best, The old Massie Ferguson starts every time no matter how cold.

@sanfransoho

3 жыл бұрын

Which motor? Oil warmer? We had have MF, but some of them are a pain in the ass in winter times.

I’ve used starting fluid for years to start multiple diesel engines. Many industrial and farm diesels had a ether injection system plumbed in to the intake from the factory! The key to using it safely is that, as you mentioned, the glow plugs or intake air heater cannot be functional (not even a little) so they must be disconnected, and the starting fluid must be administered upstream of the intake air filter so that it can be diffused evenly throughout all cylinders. Obviously this isn’t something that just anybody should be doing but I have started my 96 7.3l for the last two winters and my 6.9l IDI before that with 2 or 3 quick squirts into the front of the air filter and it starts nice and smooth every time. As with many thangs in life it is all about moderation.

@Rnddiesel

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the advice! We've got a couple old tractors with the built in ether button as well, but go figure that doesn't work on a 50 year old tractor. I think a lot of it depends on the design of the engine. I'm sure the built in ether mechanism is designed to administer the stuff in a somewhat safer manner. Definitely being cautious when using ether is a good thing, though ideally the engine would start without it!

I have a 1988 Ford F250 with the 7.3, its old but the beauty of it is that about half the stuff you mentioned doesn't apply to that old engine. It does have a glow plug issue it is not firing. I'm debating as (I know you said not to) to whether or not to bypass the glow plug controller on the truck and install a switch to manually ground out the relay and make them work. I've heard people do it and have no problems as long as you don't activate the plugs no more than 8-10 seconds. I bought the truck back in August as a project, I'm debating also would it be worth it to install a pyrometer on the truck as well.

@tcmtech7515

Жыл бұрын

Years ago I worked for a guy that had an old Ford that had a bad glow plug controller and had thus done the manual conversion. I did not know they were short-duty cycle plugs on those engines at the time and did the standard 30 seconds to a-minute burn time before starting. A day later we found out I took out all the glow plugs doing that and he had a fit and told me I was stupid and knew nothing about diesel because nobody ever runs glow plugs that long on anything to get it started. I then commented on every diesel-powered piece of equipment he had from the old forklift, and skid steers on up to his big cranes, tractors, and old heavy trucks and asked him how long he runs the glow plugs on them to get them started. His answer, at least 30 seconds to a minute or they will never start. 😋

@kman-mi7su

Жыл бұрын

@@tcmtech7515 I decided to add the option of manual control to the truck by wiring in a switch under the dash. It's not hooked up though as I fixed the factory system and its been doing ok so far. If it fails again, I'll have the option.

Been using starting fluid in all my old diesel engine's now for many decades no issues, but I wouldn't recommend using it.

@lfrankl53

4 жыл бұрын

I've never used it in a smaller diesel, but have used it hundreds of times in the past in the large engines. You need to understand that it usually only takes a quick shot or two to get one started - preferably by a second person while someone else is starting it. A little is OK. A little more can be destructive. And whatever you do, once it starts, resist the urge to hold or pump the accelerator at WOT until it smooths out (seen it many times). Use just enough throttle to keep it running because there is a lot of weight slinging around inside the block that may not be getting enough lubrication to be run at WOT until it warms up a little.

Someone I work with started a 6.7 power stroke with ether, I felt bad for it lol

I agree with waiting before driving on a cold engine. Even in the summer I wait for 30 to 60 seconds before driving.

After start, I.mmediately place in Drive to slow engine rpm. Under that slight load, thengine will warm faster. Then I move up the street with no throttle - just idle - until a few hundred yards. Then gently accelerate.

@jcpage305

3 жыл бұрын

Idling in gear while holding the brake not only puts the engine under a slight load and causes it to warm up quicker but it also warms up the trans oils quicker as well. I do the same thing myself.

Sometimes a visit from the ether bunny is better than walking. I would sparingly ether a 7.3/6.0 I have no experience with 6.4/6.7 (they may be same) but the older ones were fine if you leave the key on for a while first to let the preheat cool off as it won't heat again until you cycle the ignition off/on again. Cummins/gm I wouldn't because once it starts it preheats again and could blow the top off the prick if there is still ether in the manifold. You could always disconnect the preheater circuit if you needed to use ether to be safe. Occasional use of ether wont hurt fuckall unless you use too much and it runs away, or it ignites in the manifold. Old heavy trucks used to have ether start systems with a spin on little bottle like a propane torch and a button controlling a solenoid in the cab for winter.

I have tried running a couple junk diesel engines on gasoline and due to how thin the consistency is of gas, the lift pump cavitates as soon as the gas washes away the oil from the pump internals resulting in a pump stall condition. The gas never made it to the injection pump.

I had tuning on my 7.3 and got tired of watching the EGT gauge all the time. Keep it stock and you can keep your foot to the floor all day long without worrying about burning it up. Ford tuned these things for maximum performance and longevity from the factory. Also, the transmissions which are already the weakest link will only be stressed more than they already are if you are tuning these engines beyond factory specs.

@billypma9080

4 жыл бұрын

IDAK Mr. jjj

@brucedressel4523

4 жыл бұрын

On my 02 7.3 van fortunately i have the 5r110 trans ...

@melrobinson6919

4 жыл бұрын

@@brucedressel4523 So you got that swapped in from the factory 4R100? I would like more info on this. I have an 01 7.3 and, yes, the 4r100 is trhe weak link.

@brucedressel4523

4 жыл бұрын

@@melrobinson6919 The van already had the 5r110 when i bought it used from culligan water company ...

@melrobinson6919

4 жыл бұрын

@@brucedressel4523 Nice... Always thought the 5R100 came out with the 6.0, so during the 03 model year. Would love to have that extra gear.

At least with older diesel engines, if it's extremely cold outside, you have no access to plug in the block heater and your glowplug relay is not working, you can safely used a small shot of starting fluid without damaging the engine. Been working with diesel engines for almost 28 years and my dad for over 45. I've personally had to do this more than once on my F250 7.3. You just want to make sure you're using a very limited, small amount. Too much will cause damage. Likewise, if your glowplugs are working, you don't want to do this either.

@charlesbunting1790

2 жыл бұрын

I was always told that th more you use starting fluid on a diesel th more youl have to to

Damn good advice, thanks!

Bullet points are all good ones, some of the reasoning is a little shaky but all in all good point. Coaxing power out of a 7.3 is just disappointing, don't try to turn a pickup into a race car, you don't train an ox to be a horse, you just buy a horse.

11. Always check to see if you can see around the cracks in your windshield.

You can use silicone spray instead of ether it has a specific gravity similar to diesel fuel

@ZILAwelds

Жыл бұрын

Or you can use brake cleaner, it cleans your brakes AND starts your truck at the same time 😂😂😂

What’s the recommended time to warm up a 7.3 diesel (I have a 99 f350). I usually wait 5-7 min when it’s not cold outside and when it’s cold cold I wait 10-12 min until I leave. What’s your opinion?

My old 86 Mercedes 240D diesel manual said you could add a ratio of gasoline to the fuel tank to thin out the diesel fuel.

@juliogonzo2718

3 жыл бұрын

I've seen that for vw too

@ZILAwelds

Жыл бұрын

In germany you can do that, no problem …. To prevent gelling of the diesel …. @32F = 0C no gasoline …. For every -1C after that 1% gasoline …. Up to a max of 20 or 25% The American’s on the other hand say oh no, no gasoline …. But the manual of my 91 cummins said, in an emergency you can run it on kerosene 😂🙄🤦‍♂️ Now with modern (2007 and never) personally i would not put gasoline or Kerosin mix in the diesel….

On my 7.3 idi I had one glow plug fail and it was the one under the turbo which sucks to change so I installed a manual switch so that I could utilize the other 7 glow plugs that worked, I noticed shortly after that it would belch out a lot more smoke than usual. This was because the glow plug relay controller wasn't able to light the glow plugs after start up as was designed. The last straw for me was when I lent my truck to a family member and told them exactly how long to hold the switch, they didn't listen to me and fried the rest of them. Shortly after I just replaced all the glow plugs and returned the controller back to automatic control. Plus It is nice not having to hold the switch Every morning as well.

Excellent advice especially the part about NEVER USE ETHER IN A DIESEL ENGINE. If it's negative 25 degrees and you need a truck. (Rent a gas powered truck instead.) If you try to start a diesel with ether you may be looking at $5,000 -$20,000 repair bill if that pre-ignition goes the wrong way. Call the rental company instead. Also never use anything flammable if you don't have ether. WD 40..no way A spray bottle with diesel in it ..nope. Some guys say that WD 40 is safer. Don't listen to them. Pre ignition doesn't care what is being sprayed into that engine when the piston is before TDC. If it doesn't start and you don't know what is wrong and you don't know how to fix it . Bite the bullet and call a tow truck.

When oil is cold it has a low viscosity of 5 and gets to the top of the motor extremely quick, but it does not have the full protection qualities needed until the oil reaches 87 degrees Celsius, this is when it's viscosity is up around 30,(5/30w)

@alexkram

4 жыл бұрын

This is not at all correct. When oil is cold the viscosity is higher, not lower. Watch a Project Farm KZread video where he tests oil and you will see it flows very slowly when cold.

Really, Really Good Info

Diesel engines have more compression than a gasser they will ignite the gas many people ran a mix of "hot diesel" which is diesel gas mix normally like 18 gallons diesel to 1 gallon gas in their diesels to keep the fuel from jelling up and in instances that your injection pump is weak 1 or 2 quarts of used 15-40 per tank of fuel to up the pressure since its thicker

The animated drawing is awesome!

Very enlightening, thanks for sharing that. I learned a few things.

I know guys that always use ether on their diesel, in alaska it hits -50 degrees every winter. Diesels hate it.

@AKredhed

4 жыл бұрын

Austin Sparks yeah our international 4400 hates the negative weather... but I can’t bring myself to use ether. We plug in the block and have a tender on our 3 batteries.

@sutton13151

3 жыл бұрын

Once you use it it is dependent on it

There’s a little hook inside of your gas cap cover to hang your gas cap on so it doesn’t rub on your paint. I just noticed in the video.

@alericjohansen6775

3 жыл бұрын

Not all vehicles have that. It's a nice feature when you do though. My old van, a 1995 G20, didn't have a gas cap hanger like that. But my 2006 international pb105 has a feature like that, the cap has a chain on it which holds the cap near the neck of the tank. SUPER useful feature.

I didn't experience heat increase by putting a different exhaust tip on my 16 6.7 stroker. I can put my hand on the exhaust tip. It is uncomfortable. But doesn't hurt. I could not do that to my 7.3. You put gas in your diesel tank... you have a very high chance of blowing up a injector. I agree about the ether... don't use it on these pick ups. If you have to do something like this in a pinch use something like wd40 where it has lubricants. I have seen diesels that after ether has been uses on them... they become reliant on it.

In the winte or below 40 you cant start a 2 stroke Detroit without starting fluid.

@wushock92

4 жыл бұрын

Not entirely true. If the block heater is plugged in, it should start without it. Done it many winters.

@althomas6496

4 жыл бұрын

@@wushock92 not practical for the machinery and trucks that are on location without power

@wushock92

4 жыл бұрын

@oShane Kasper LOL. Reminds me of a story about the founder of Cummins having to light a fire under his fuel tank on a road trip to Washington, D.C. to display the motor in an automotive application. Up until then, diesels were primarily used in marine applications. The book was called My Days With the Diesel.

@tomstarros3189

3 жыл бұрын

@@wushock92 can u do that on my aircraft running diesel. jet.A...in the dark.

Nice video!

Good tips . Sir. If ever one really needs to use a starting fluid in a diesel engine, than I advice to use break cleaner as it's closer to diesel than ether . Still only to be used as a last resort

@juliogonzo2718

3 жыл бұрын

Fuck no. Starter fluid has lubricants in it. If it wasn't my engine I would use brake kleen

@bigdaddy7119

2 жыл бұрын

Brake cleaner is the WORST thing to use! Not only can it damage paint, and plastic but it also washes away any oil in the cylinders. A lot of big diesel vehicles and equipment have a bracket and line under the hood for an ether bottle (same size and type as a propane torch bottle). All of our 5 ton trucks as well as others when I was in the Army had that feature with a “cold start aid” button on the dash to spray a metered amount into the intake.

@pauls466

2 жыл бұрын

@@bigdaddy7119 And Ether doesn't wash away the oil . I think you mean brake fluid .

@pauls466

2 жыл бұрын

@@juliogonzo2718 Starter fluid is PURE ether.

@bigdaddy7119

2 жыл бұрын

Paul S no sir, brake cleaner will eat up paint and plastic. And as someone else posted, your starting fluid ether has a small amount of oil in it for lubrication. Spray some on a piece of concrete and when it dries, you can see the outer ring still there because oil doesn’t evaporate

Great list! One thing that gets me is these guys that brag ''my truck will start right up at so and so temperature without plugging it in or unhooked glow plugs/grid heater. Yeah the truck may start right up but you could be knocking off MANY MILES of life off of the engine, fuel system, and starting systems because of the added stress the cold puts on them. I plug my trucks in if the temp is 40f or below, but do as you wish with yours.

Man. Starting fluid is life 🤣

Nice little informative vid, enjoyed it , thanks.

You can use either but you have to do it right unplug your glow plug relay so it doesn't destroy your glow plugs turn the motor over until you see smoke out of the exhaust then you can give it a small shot. But better yet while you're turning it over when you see smoke out the exhaust have someone else give it a small shot will you turning it over period and all will be good

Understanding you're a Ford guy but I'm searching everywhere I can for some answers of what happen to me with my cummins 5.9 with 133K miles. Just took the truck for an approx. 2500 mile road trip with my approx. 13300 pound travel trailer. I purchased the super tuner on my way out, around 25% of the miles. Also installed a cold air intake K&n. I noticed what was described to me as "axle wrap" with the tuner so took it easy with that in mind. All in all, the truck gave no mechanical issues and ran fantastic. When home I took it for a ride with tuner still on "TOW/PERFORMANCE" mode, doing 80MPH on the freeway when sudden engine shut down. I noticed, what felt like the axle wrap just before/during the engine failure. All guages still operating, speedo, etc except the engine. Atempted starting. Engine didn't/doesn't turn. At this time I've removed the oil and filter. I can't see any kind of "shavings" or metallic particles in either of the oil in the container or the filter after tearing the filter apart carefully so not to CREATE shaving. I opened the housing for the flex plate to attempt to turn by hand with the engine solid. Removed the serpentine belt still no turning of the engine by hand or starter. All guages in the stock dashboard of the 06 Ram 2500 SLT were showing good at the time of the failure. No over heating. Engine just seized up on me with nothing to show of a reason to do so. I do not have any after market guages showing anything more than stock guages. (That will change when this thing gets up and running again...) Can you or anyone who read my post here give me any ideas. I'm desperate and attempting any info from those I find might be educated enough to assist. Thank you all Chris Chapman 2006 Ram 2500 SLT 5.9 Cummins stock other than metioned/super tuner/K&N. 133,300 original, well maintained miles with me owning for 8000 miles, not knowing the previous owner.

@Rnddiesel

4 жыл бұрын

I'm sorry to hear about your truck! It's certainly going to take a lot of torque to turn the engine over. It may sound obvious, but have you tried charging the batteries and then cranking the engine over? Basically rule out that a bad alternator would have caused the truck to die. If your batteries are low on charge from a bad alternator your starter won't be much good. Diesel engines are hard to turn over by hand already. Assuming that's not the case, you may want to try taking off the valve cover and seeing if there's anything obviously wrong there. If you were really pushing the limits of the engine with the tuner, and 13300lbs is a heavy trailer, you may have damaged the engine with excessive exhaust gas temperatures, which there is no factory gauge for. I'm hoping that's not the case as the engines are fairly resilient. It could be any number of things, and without personally being there I'm afraid I won't be much help. Also make sure the transmission isn't causing the engine to be locked up.

@johnsanders7012

4 жыл бұрын

On my 7.3 my ac compressor locked up and shut my engine down and locked her down. Had good batteries and a new engine but was shocked that that would stop it.

I'm surprised you didn't mention the term "run away", especially for the ether tip. A run away diesel is terrifying, and every diesel owner should be at least aware of it.

@debspeakes9750

Жыл бұрын

What’s runaway?

@jamesb1988

Жыл бұрын

@@debspeakes9750 basically it starts to use oil as fuel and starts a reaction that ends with the engine exploding. Taking the key out of the ignition does nothing, it's pretty insane. Reason I keep a fire extinguisher in my truck.

Been twisting wrenches 40+ years.you talked about it but to me it should be #1 and that the bit of starting fluid. I guarantee I will never use that stuff. Seen too many motors ruined, busted pistons, rings, bent rods and once opened up a perkins four cylindet and took the crank out in three different pieces....sad thing indeed. If you just have to help a diesel s5art my favorite is to spray just a quick spurt of wd-40. If you were to visit my place, I'll give ya 20.00 if you find a can of ether........lol....

@Rnddiesel

4 жыл бұрын

40+ years of turning wrenches, that's impressive! Its sad to hear stories about engines being ruined with ether. It's my #1 thing to not do as well, I probably should have numbered them in the video, but I ordered them from not so bad, to worst in the video. So you've never had WD-40 give you issues with ruining an engine?

My ‘84 Golf Diesel I learned not to shoot WD-40 down the intake while the engine is running. That got the neighbor’s attention 😀

How does your turbo cool down

Ive always thought there should be a pedal that you pump a few times before start that primes the engine with oil (gas or diesel engines ) but why prevemt the main cause of long term damage

Here's a list of other things you should NOT do to a diesel (courtesy of commentators): 1) Don't add Diesel Exhaust Fluid to the Diesel Fuel tank. 2) Don't immediately shut down the engine without letting the turbo cool down. - Give the turbo time to cool off especially after heavy use, otherwise the high temperatures can burn the oil stuck inside the turbo and cause premature bearing failure.

@cbmech2563

5 жыл бұрын

When you shut the engine off you cut off its oil supply. Not a good thing if it's hot and spinning at 200,000 rpm.

@chanseormon

5 жыл бұрын

Rnddiesel If you live in a cold climate plug in your block heater this is for everyone who has a Diesel truck

@Rnddiesel

5 жыл бұрын

@@chanseormon That's definitely not a bad idea if you have access to power where you park!

@chanseormon

5 жыл бұрын

Rnddiesel use the Archoil AR6200 and AR9100 Fuel and Oil Additives

@Rnddiesel

5 жыл бұрын

@@chanseormon I've heard good things about the Archoil products, and I probably will try them out one of these days. It's just hard to justify at the time being, Archoil isn't cheap!

I got 99 7.3 why does everyone say my pickup will be fine to literly squirt one second shot of either to save on battery and starter for wich I'm out in the middle of the boon docks no power to plug it in other than to a generator that will just die if you plug block in to it?

any additivesyou would recommend 2006 E350 6ltr?

Nice video. I would definitely say gas in a diesel is far worse than diesel in a gas. Especially in common rail diesel fuel systems

I had a 1980 Scout 2 with the Nissan SD-6-33T turbocharged diesel. It had manual glow plugs of which I had to push in the glow plug button until it went out. IF,on the few occasions I used Ether, I'd spray a very short spray of about 3 seconds., It would rattle a few seconds and then smooth out.Putting too much ether in a gas engine can also harm it. The railroad club I belonged to used to have a loco with EMD/GM 12V567A two stroke normally aspirated with a roots blower on both banks of cylinders. I'd start that in cold weather by squirting a 10 second spray into the intake of the roots blower(Scavenging blower, not supercharger). Then we'd crank it over using the full hand throttle.It would rattle, then start with a huge cloud of black smoke. EMD's are a big version of a Detroit diesel.Regardless the least amount of ether, the better. Also in cold weather, the fuel can gel in the fuel filter. I had to pour Hot water on the fuel filter, then prime it until the fuel melted the wax. I'd recommend Winter Blend or a fuel treatment with Anti-gel.

I liked this video...but much of it can be summed up by: "Think twice before second guessing the manual and/or the decisions made by the professional engineers who designed your truck.

Great breakdown and explanation of multiple issues. But what does the exhaust fluid do? Just add to tank? Plus does sea foam really work and not harm engine?

@Rnddiesel

5 жыл бұрын

I see your points! Cheap exhaust fluid can leave minerals deposits on the surface of the SCR catalyst which will definitely be detrimental. Also I'd imagine that some minerals could react negatively with the precious metals as well, though I'm no chemist. It definitely wouldn't be good if you added DEF fluid to the diesel tank, I know the Ford's have the DEF fill next to the tank, so it wouldn't take much to accidentally add DEF to the diesel tank. Regarding the Sea Foam, I have no idea! I've heard good things about it working in gasoline engines, though I'd need to do more research as to whether or not it decreases the fuel lubricity if added to diesel. Thanks for the input!

@cbmech2563

5 жыл бұрын

Def is used in the catalyst to eliminate nitrous oxide after the egr screwed up the combustion process to lower temps to reduce formation of nitrous while increasing smoke because of incomplete combustion , requiring a particle trap that needs to be burned out . There are reports out of Europe saying that this system is causing new pollutants that are extremely carcinogenic . All of this was brought about by manufacturers getting laws passed to require it (follow the money trail). I used seafoam in a 97 diesel that had been sitting for 7 years when I put it back on the road . It runs great and no problems .

@Rnddiesel

5 жыл бұрын

The SCR did make a difference in fuel economy too from my understanding. Running less EGR probably helps the engines last longer as well! I hadn't heard of the new carcinogens being caused by the SCR. That's definitely concerning. If it's not that I guess its the diesel particulates that'll give you lung cancer one thing or the other.

@cbmech2563

5 жыл бұрын

It's primarily the egr that screws everything up , the scr and the trap are just taking care of the problems . I was talking to the Detroit diesel rep in 2009 and he said that they expected engine life to be cut by about 500,000 miles and milage by about 2 mpg. How that is supposed to help the environment I have no idea .

@Rnddiesel

5 жыл бұрын

@@cbmech2563 Holy cow, that is ridiculous! Most vehicles don't even last 500,000 miles! I can definitely see why a lot of 6.0 psd owners delete the EGR.

Never have had diesel, so this is all new to me. Sounds like many of your suggestions pertained to older diesel engines. To these pertain to the newer (maybe, last 5 yrs or so) diesel engines? Really enjoyed your video and presentation. Y'all Be Safe!

@Rnddiesel

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah a lot of these do pertain to older diesel engines - at least that's the reference I'm coming from. I did try to throw in a mix to account for more modern diesel engines as well. Though frankly most of these topics are also applicable to modern diesel engines.

Do you know what a KBI dieselmatic is ? Just asking

Good video

I start plugging it in in oct on till it gets warm in the spring other wise ther pigs to start some people change ther oil from 15 40 to a thinner oil in Canada I don’t do that I’m usually plugged in if I go somewhere all night I take a extension cord even a motel and it’s starts right up

@mattyboy7272

4 жыл бұрын

Jeff Leblanc 0-40 is wicked for winter, definitely easier to start in -40 lol

Love the vid, BUT... You kinda botched the explanation of octane rating vs diesel fuel ratings. Octane shows gas' RESISTANCE to detonation under high compression. High compression for a gasoline engine is anywhere north of 10:1. Diesel fuel doesn't ignite, it combusts, and only under EXTREME pressure, comparatively. (Diesels run well north of 20:1 compression ratios) Trying to run gas in your diesel will cause what amounts to 'precombustion'. meaning it'll ignite WELL before it should, and it'll be an explosion, rather than a burn, which would effectively wreck your diesel engine. (Oh, and yea, it strips the lube from all surfaces) Other than that, great vid.

@benjaminconnolly5655

4 жыл бұрын

There is absolutely NO modern diesel engine running "well north" of 20:1 compression. That being said, gasoline will indeed destroy a diesel engine, due to BOTH detonation and lack of lubricity.

@Wr3ckZ

4 жыл бұрын

@@benjaminconnolly5655 Forgive me, I was raised on the older/naturally aspirated diesels, which sit around 25:1. Modern turbo diesels are between 15:1, to 20:1. I humbly apologize for my mistake in clarification.

Just found out how bad ether is 😅 I have to use it to start my tdi whenever i take off the fuel lines off the injectors

Why do heavy equipment and buses have ether injection systems for cold weather application.

Theres this other youtuber that i watch, his name is zip ties and bias plies. He is another ford diesel guy and he does all the opposite things that you said its hilarious to watch. You should check him out

@Rnddiesel

5 жыл бұрын

I have heard of the guy! Awe man, maybe I'm weird, but when I see any of these things done, I can't help but cringe. Heck even when those Honda Civics fire up in the morning and its 20 degrees outside, I still cringe when the 'owners' immediately romp on it after start up!

@lubesiron-cslfarmsllc2751

4 жыл бұрын

He is minty

Love the square body 7.3 diesel best diesel ford even had

@chevytruckman34

4 жыл бұрын

Very true, but gets stuck in wet grass. Had to get rid of mine for that very reason. Garbage when you're trying to actually do something rather than look pretty.

@gizmo7050

4 жыл бұрын

Ford diesels are junk, just because the 7.3 won’t blow up doesn’t make it close to the best.🤦‍♂️ Ford diesels have been screwing over their owners since 2004 😂

@Nikkk6969

4 жыл бұрын

Alex Kent what’s a better diesel then? Not ram or a duramax

@gizmo7050

4 жыл бұрын

12 valve Cummins, 05-07 5.9 Cummins, LBZ duramax. Take your pick

Actually Cummings, Detroit and international all mention the proper use of state fluids in diesel engines. It is not harmful if used correctly.

@Bos742

4 жыл бұрын

Al Killian I have no idea who Cummings is

Ether is ok to use, BUT…you only need to spray a tiny amount. Most damage that occurs is because people spray half the damn can into the intake before trying to start it. Have someone crank the engine over while you spray tiny little shots into the intake. Like about a half second duration of spray.

Newer Rams with Exhaust Brake/ Jake Brake..always have it ON. If you dont run it for a long time..it will build up soot and when the time comes to engage it..it may not fuction and or burn out the Variable Actuator motor..And since the Chip shortage looking at $700 to $5000 for just that Actuator..ask me how i know..Dealership $5000 and $600 direct from cummins..and unless you are in a serious bind..and depending on who you get at cummins they don't deal directly with the public..I was fortunate enough that they sold it to me.

Just out of curiosity what is your take on pulling off the red wire to the wastegate on a 2000 f250 7.3? Is there any real advantage or dis advantage? My 7.3 is stock with an intake and muffler delete.

@Rnddiesel

4 жыл бұрын

I'm not too familiar with wastegated 7.3's, my OBS with the stock turbo is non-wastegated. From my understanding though, pulling the red line either limits the functionality of the wastegate or disables it all together. The wastegate directs exhaust gasses around the turbine in the turbocharger. This basically allows Ford to get away with using a smaller A/R ratio housing on the turbine to improve low end response. The disadvantage to that is that the smaller housing becomes a restriction at higher flow levels (i.e. at high rpm and boost pressures). The wastegate allows exhaust to bypass the turbine to reduce restriction up top and to keep the turbo from over-speeding. You'll probably see some increase in boost on the higher end but at the cost of decreased turbo life (due to over-speeding) by disconnecting the wastegate red line. Also disconnecting the red line will decrease turbocharger efficiency on the top end as well. It really wasn't designed to spin that fast and work well. I have heard plenty of stories of people doing it anyways and everything remaining okay. It's basically just a band aid to getting a higher performing turbo. That's just my two cents though, best of luck and have fun!

Excessive idle time on vehicles equipped with a particulate filter. All the soot gets captured and isn’t burned off and can add more soot to the oil. Also let the exhaust cool down if the after treatment system just went through an active regen, failure to do so could result in damage to components. Use oil rated for a diesel, keep the air filters clean so you don’t start sucking oil out of the turbo and in to the exhaust, the after treatment system can’t handle it and the DOC will not work right which will lead to you DPF overheating and melting. Change your fuel filters and don’t put unfiltered fuel in to the secondary filter because contaminants can lead to clogged or leaking injectors.

Another tip. work your diesel. short trips empty are not good for it.

I know this video is 3yrs old but that boost gauge is nice. how much was that I didn't see it on their site?

@Rnddiesel

2 жыл бұрын

Looks like they're running around $190 nowadays, usually you can get a 10% off coupon from Glowshift though: www.glowshiftdirect.com/3in1-black-analog-egt-w-digital-boost-temperature-gauge/

My 03 dmax started in less then 3 seconds at -40 not plugged in don't need any starting fluid

What do you think about the propane injection systems for diesel engines?

@Rnddiesel

3 жыл бұрын

I don't really know enough about propane injection to have an opinion one way or the other. Anything that does push the limits of the engine beyond its design power level however is likely to decrease the life of the engine. Of course that only applies if you use that power with your right foot.

Caption wrote out “derp max” lol

@Micro13bk

4 жыл бұрын

only OGs remember what derp means lol

My dad taught me that, if a diesel has problems starting in the cold, take off your air cleaner and blow your heat gun into the intake.

@Rnddiesel

5 жыл бұрын

It sounds like that would work! The only thing with modern diesels especially, is that they tend to have plastic intakes tubes. You'd have to be careful to not melt those in the process!

@joshuaborland7751

5 жыл бұрын

Rnddiesel just put it on low. And don’t hold it right in the intake

@compactc9

4 жыл бұрын

Basically this is what the Cummins uses instead of glow plugs. Has an air heater in the manifold entrance. Definitely works if you do it right!

@peterbremner1731

4 жыл бұрын

Traditional way was a rag soaked in diesel and burn it beside intake so flame is sucked in, it does work but I once saw a forklift with cylinder head removed and cylinder was nearly full of half burnt paper and rags

Question. My glow plugs are dead and it won't start unless its atleast 50°. I've used starting fluid a hand full of times to start it, which I will not do anymore but my question is, what could cause it to not want to start under 50°?

@Rnddiesel

3 жыл бұрын

It's likely the glow plugs or the glow plug relay, I wouldn't really count on my truck starting under 50°F without glow plugs. The older 7.3's really need all the help they can get to start when it's cold.

I started putting an additive in my fuel for my carbonator to clean it and I would put it in every time I fill up with fuel. And man did I regret that it start staling out and backfiring and I had to take it to a shop . But thank god it only blew a censor and after a new one was put in I was good to go and never put anything in my tank again!

Good to learn that starting fluid is a no no...

One you have hot exhaust going through it all the time then there's cool air coming out of the air going through it that is warmed by the hot temperatures under the hood so tell me how do you cool a turbo down that has very hot temperatures running through it it's not it's going to be the same way as it was when you were driving down the highway

@Rnddiesel

4 жыл бұрын

It's all relative, by cool that really just means in the range of only 200-300°F or less. I've got an exhaust gas temperature probe in my truck and steady state on the highway it'll reach 800-900°F. That's how hot the air is going into the exhaust side of the turbocharger. Depending on how much you're on the gas pedal, the exhaust temperature can get well above 1000+°F. Letting it cool down at idle exposes the turbocharger to much lower exhaust temperatures in range of 200°F more or less depending on a bunch of other factors. This helps cool down the turbine side of the turbocharger from several hundred degrees to a much lower range. In theory it'll cool off much faster by having some lower temperature air flowing though it. Also keeping the engine running keeps oil flowing through the bearings so it doesn't overheat and turn to sludge inside the turbo bearings. I hope this answers your questions!

@juliogonzo2718

3 жыл бұрын

You should let it idle for a bit after running. The oil flowing through the turbo cools it sufficiently to prevent "turbo coking" where it burns on the bearing

I run the 7.3 wide open within one minute of leaving the house Rotella T6 5w40 full synthetic 16mpg Dually straight pipe 275,000miles ZERO breakdowns since new

Dont be afraid to give her some good ol cosby sauce

I have a stock 93 7.3L IDI non-turbo F350, It gets sluggish when towing heavy loads, It has a very small air intake, like two slices of bread stacked on each other, and the exhaust is grated to restrict air flow. Would I be in risk of damaging or bogging down the engine with higher air flow on both ends?

@Rnddiesel

4 жыл бұрын

You shouldn't be at any risk of ruining the engine by reducing airflow restriction. A common thing folks do with the old IDI is to get rid of the old soup bowl intake in place for a better flowing option. As for the exhaust, I'm not so familiar with the IDI's, but I believe the exhaust is pretty small like 2-2.5 inch out of the manifolds, so opening that up a bit bigger should help some. The grate you're talking about, is that the grate right at the exhaust tip?

@ZILAwelds

Жыл бұрын

Put a hypermax turbo kit on it … that will wake it up ! Advance the injection timing and maybe the injection amount too