Most intelligent & Informative for the progress of Mankind.We like it very much with regards.

nice job! learn a lot

Thanks for this

Bro,,,,How r u,,,Once i used glossy paper and pressed it with iron for 5 mins,,,it worked,,then on the second occasion i pressed it with the iron for 30 mins,,,it doesnot work,,,,,

Thanks got it

Did you try something with very narrow lines and small spaces between them?

@queuerious

7 жыл бұрын

Yes Vatsek. The laser printer can create very fine lines (say 1mm line and 1mm spacing) with the toner on glossy photo paper. This transfers very well to the copper when using the laminator. I have etched such fine details for a surface mounted 8-pin IC. Even the very fine circuit outline (a thin line box that encircles the circuit layout generated by my Frizing software) ws etched as a complete circuit (tested with a continuity tester). The challenge in etching such fine detail is the length of time needed in the etchant. This process has hardly any "undercut" whereby the acid eats the copper underneath the toner edges. I have always had good success and am impressed that this method can produce some very good results. Good luck!

amazing. I have a laminator and I used glossy photo paper and was not able to get it to transfer but i didn't pass it through 15 times, it was more like 5 or 6 times. I think I did not allow the heat to transfer enough I guess. Regular paper and an iron worked but it left paper lint stuck all over the toner and after etching, the traces were plagued with pinholes and voids. I removed as much paper under water but was never able to fully remove all the fine lint that was embedded in the toner.

@queuerious

7 жыл бұрын

Heat is important, as is a clean copper surface. Try again with 10-15 passes to get heat into the toner and pressure to the copper. I have very high fidelity transfers, no rough edges on the toner, no paper lint. This process is very effective. Goid luck.

@Mike-ff7ib

7 жыл бұрын

Queuerious Guy I tried 20 to 30 times through the laminator and the board was quite hot. The toner still would not transfer at all which leaves me to think there may be two issues. 1) The glossy paper brand may not be releasing the toner causing the toner to stay on the paper rather than the board. 2) the toner brand may have a much higher melting point compared to other brand of toner materials. I did sand the board completely and then cleaned the copper prior to the lamainator step. When I used an iron using regular paper, it did fuse the toner to the copper, but not without paper lint issues. I have not tried using an iron and photo paper to see if this will work. If it does, then perhaps the laminator is just not hot enough, we will see.

@queuerious

7 жыл бұрын

Sorry to hear that you are not having success. It may be your paper: I use A4 sized sheets of 150gsm gloss inkjet paper, using for inkjet photos from Ryman stationers. Using a laser printer with black toner (samsung model 2020). The laminator is an A4 with operating temperature 130C according to the instructions.

@Mike-ff7ib

7 жыл бұрын

Not to worry, I will find a way to make it work. I have the same printer which is a Samsung 2020. The laminator is an Apache from Amazon and Im sure the temps are similar since they are designed to laminate plastic sheets but I haven't checked for sure. www.amazon.com/Apache-AL13-Thermal-Laminator-Pouches/dp/B0012UEXTQ/ref=sr_1_30?s=office-electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1483303678&sr=1-30&keywords=laminator I could not find the paper you used on Amazon. I may try toner transfer paper.

@Mike-ff7ib

7 жыл бұрын

This photo paper wont work. I just wanted to share with you for your information. I thought the 4 x 6" paper would be perfect for the size boards I make, unfortunately the coating is tough and will not let go of the toner. www.officedepot.com/a/products/937389/Office-Depot-Brand-Standard-Photo-Paper/

Using iron is easy to use and not complicated and not costly

@queuerious

5 ай бұрын

@victorb22622, you are right - an iron can work well and is pretty straightforward. My experience with an iron was that it was too variable to continue using. I found the laminator much more consistent and predictable.

@user-th7gd7ge4p

4 ай бұрын

"not invented here"

WOW I have little heat tolerance maybe gloves would be a good idea, I am curious will any Laminator do the job or are their some types to avoid ? My Budget is under £30 any suggestions ? thanks

@queuerious

8 жыл бұрын

+Ortorea Screenname I think any laminator will work: they all operate with the same principals I believe. I paid £7.99 for this A4 sized laminator in a sale on at the local stationers store. There are various videos and websites that state you need to alter the temperature or pressures - I did nothing and used it straight out of the box. Thanks for your comments!

@aerotro

8 жыл бұрын

+Queuerious Guy Cool thanks I just heard some were having problems with not being able to get the thick board into the rollers but thanks for the reply I will have a look around I am sure I can make mods if it won't fit :)

@queuerious

8 жыл бұрын

+Ortorea Screenname The boards I used were 'standard' 1 or 1.5mm thick, single-sided copper. There are infact thinner 0.6mm boards that are easier to cut with a paper guillotine (paper chopper!) that means you can etch a number of similar boards in one large piece, then cut up later. Cheers.

What kind of paper did you use?

@queuerious

2 жыл бұрын

Glossy ink jet photo printer paper. Nothing special. The important thing to note is I used a laser printer (which uses a plastic toner powder, not ink) using this ink jet paper. Thanks for watching!

The sound of cheap plastic gearing beginning to slip.

@larrybud

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, the inside of these things are pretty cheap. Generally 3 reduction gears and a heating element.

care to share the brand of paper you're using?

@queuerious

8 жыл бұрын

+mysweetmeat4u I used this stuff: cheap and cheerful, and works well for me. www.ryman.co.uk/ryman-photo-inkjet-paper-152x102mm-gloss-180gsm-100-sheets?&istCompanyId=724692e0-2f99-4874-9565-6fc82074fe86&istItemId=pxxxati&istBid=tzxm&gclid=Cj0KEQiA5dK0BRCr49qDzILe74UBEiQA_6gA-sNRiHLT_EfldCAhughyFUG-yJeWe5b4axGYdhKeXgYaAprc8P8HAQ

can you please mention the laminator model and its price?

@queuerious

7 жыл бұрын

Hi Javed, the laminator was bought from Clas Ohlson stores in the UK, called the Exibel A4 laminator. It seems to have been discontinued (as of Feb 2017), but don not be too concerned. Almost any laminator that you can find will be designed around the same principles and will work with the same laminator plastic sheets. This means the laminators will heat up to similar temperatures (say 130 C) and can apply this heat under the pressure of some rollers. This is all you need for PCB making at home. Best of all, laminators are readily available from any well-stocked stationers stores at a very reasonable cost (made in China). Good luck! Matt

@EricMintaAsare

3 жыл бұрын

@@queuerious does the roller type being metal or plastic. I'm told there are these 2 types.

@queuerious

3 жыл бұрын

@@EricMintaAsare I am not sure. The heat the laminator creates is passed 'into' the object being rolled somehow. I think the roller is heated, so likely is metal with a plastic/rubber coating.

Hi, how to print part names on the circuit board

@queuerious

6 жыл бұрын

Hi Suresh, I think this is similar to another question you have asked. I've tried to answer the other one.

@sureshlingabathina

6 жыл бұрын

Yes, it is similar question but how to imprint names in solder mask template. I have seen software prints only solder mask print, but how to add names to it

what the maximum thickness this machine can take

@queuerious

6 жыл бұрын

This specific laminator is designed for laminating pages or card inside 250micron plastic pouches. But I have used it well, with no lasting damage, on PCB boards that are 1.6mm thick. Your mileage may vary depending upon your laminator. Good luck!

@sureshlingabathina

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks, I have brought one similar to it

Nice job,, just wondering how many times your poor laminater will groan be fore it totally calfs,, LOL,,,,,

@queuerious

6 жыл бұрын

It's still rocking and rolling! Besides, they are cheap and easy to replace, completely unadjusted and straight out of the box. Thanks for looking!

@terencekaye9948

6 жыл бұрын

No worries,, Thank you for posting it,, I may buy one if I can find one,, Takes licken,, Keeps on Ticken,, :)

I forgot to ask, what printer did you use?

@queuerious

2 ай бұрын

@terencekaye9948, my printer is an old Samsung M2020 laser printer. They stopped making printers and sold the business to HP. But it still works well, using toner (incredibly fine plastic powder)…

Nice :). I'm planning to buy a Laminator as well for my DIY pcb. By the way the photo paper you use has very good transfer result. Is it a regular glossy photo paper?

@queuerious

9 жыл бұрын

Hi'gak Iya Yes, it is was a cheap brand of glossy photo paper with no special properties.

@alanflood8162

2 жыл бұрын

@@queuerious was it glossy paper used for inkjet?

@queuerious

2 жыл бұрын

@@alanflood8162 Hi Alan, yes. I use a laser jet printer (which uses plastic toner powder) to print the images onto glossy photo paper meant for ink jet printers.

@alanflood8162

2 жыл бұрын

@@queuerious thanks for the info, I'm an artist etcher, Iv been using film but it has a tendency to bubble with an iron, so Zim planning to use a laminator

@queuerious

2 жыл бұрын

@@alanflood8162 I think this technique could serve you well. I experimented with the resolution of text and found very high fidelity with font as small as 4pts. Your mileage may vary, but fine, thin traces in circuits down to 0.2mm have been reproduced continuously (no breaks in the trace). Good luck.

Does this transfer work on silver?

@queuerious

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Eric, I have not tried toner transfer into silver. But the reason the plastic toner sticks to the copper board is purely from heat and pressure. Silver behaves the same (gets hot if heated) so I expect it would work too. Once transferred, the toner on copper adheres reasonably well, but comes off easily with acetone. I expect silver adhesion to be similar. Good luck!

@EricMintaAsare

3 жыл бұрын

@@queuerious thanks for replying Many content creators do not reply. Thanks for the knowledge shared

How to print overlay component names on pcb

@queuerious

6 жыл бұрын

Hi Suresh, I would recommend the following: 1) etch the component names into the board, e.g. R1, C2, Q3, etc., and you can do this with most of the circuit design software packages, or 2) Coat the board with UV cured solder mask (typically a green or blue paint that covers the etched board and is hardened with UV light). In the solder mask step, you can imprint component names by adding the names to the masking template. I will be releasing a video on solder masking a board in the near future.

@sureshlingabathina

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks for quick reply I got it , but how to imprint names in solder mask template. I have seen software prints only solder mask print, but how to add names to it.

@queuerious

6 жыл бұрын

Solder mask is created by painting the entire board in special UV-cured paint. Then, on top of the painted layer, I lay a transparent plastic sheet which has black images of solder pads. When exposing this 'sandwich' of layers, the light hits the board, but does not reach the board under the solder mask (pads are black, so stops light). After curing, remove the board and wipe the surface with acetone. This removes the WET paint that remains on the solder pads and does not remove the DRY paint. The result is solder mask with copper solder pads showing through. If you add the component names to the transparent overlay sheet (so this would include solder pads AND component names, shapes, etc.) then after curing and wiping with acetone, you will see copper solder pads AND component names "written in copper" on the board. I hope this makes sense! Diptrace allows you to print out traces, pads, vias, holes, copper pours, mask names, etc in any combination.

is laminator modified?

@queuerious

6 ай бұрын

No, this is a standard A4 laminator. The PCB boards are at most 1.6mm thick, and while the laminator does 'groan' with some noise, it works well to evenly press and heat the copper and toner printing. Thanks for watching and good luck!

Have a look at the Apache AL13P! hackaday.io/project/3363-apache-al13p-laminator-one-pass-pcb-toner-xfer

What is temperature please

@queuerious

6 ай бұрын

@mohamedrasheed201, the laminator I use is a standard one, designed to laminate paper or card (not pcb 😀). The temperature is somewhere between 110C-130C I believe.

there is a method of transfering the toner heatless here on youtube. no more laminator needed.

@queuerious

7 жыл бұрын

That's really interesting. Hopefully that new method can offer this technique to others that do not have a laminator.

@EricMintaAsare

3 жыл бұрын

@@queuerious it requires acetone, which is hard to find in my country Ghana

@queuerious

3 жыл бұрын

@@EricMintaAsare Acetone is found in nail varish remover, so look for it in a store that sells beauty products. Good luck!

I was worried about your laminator

Poor laminator. Great work tho

Why not just put the paper and copper into a microwave and heat it up. This it will be faster

@putinscat1208

8 жыл бұрын

+SalesTag developer Cute!

@ingeniossoluciones

6 жыл бұрын

No, Avoid putting any metal into the microwave! It´s a high risk for your safety

@user-th7gd7ge4p

4 ай бұрын

@@ingeniossoluciones plenty of yt videos of melting metals in the microvawe furnace

How many times?? Stupid to show and waste of time.

@queuerious

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the feedback Dirik. I appreciate that you took time to review my video. As a real-time recording, I did not edit it and felt it was useful for some viewers.

Jesus Dude, change that noisy ,,cheapo,, laminator and buy something a bit more (less squicky) It sounds like Thriller that does. Ahhhh....mate..!!!!! That is more that torture to listen to. I would not be the one to endure that kind of mind boggling noise F. that.