knew an old fella that was into precision shooting etc. Fist time i met him, he had his 6m BR on range. had about a 2inch x about 20 inch long barrel. Asked him why so short, he said a wasp built a nest in the end, so he cut it off with a hacksaw and re-crowned it with a countersink metal bit. then i noticed the cheeky glint in his eye. Im not a machinist, but even i see some backshed practices going on here. was kinda waiting for that countersink bit to come out.

Quick tip, when threading a 5/8 24 TPI, the correct diameter is actually .620". If you do it to .625 the top of the treads will be too sharp and cause them to stick into whatever you put on it

I could watch this stuff all day

Thank You, Enjoyed the post. Reminded me how much i loved using the lathe in 'Metal Shop' class at school,, back in the day. Pondering the idea of fitting a 'muzzle guard / crown protector' on the 'farm / truck' gun; may be even a 'muzzle brake' , to help wife and mates possibly better enjoy 'plinking' ? I will have your demonstration in mind when asking for quotes on the possible work. Cheers mate.

@precisionmachineshed

7 жыл бұрын

Sounds good. Thanks for the comments. I may do a better quality remake of this one in the future.

That's some pretty rough looking threads! Might want to take a lot of advice from comments below and have a red seal machinist teach you a few tricks of the trade to get better and faster results as well as moving over to carbide helps with cleaner cuts in smaller places especially with threading

@thetoecutter13

5 жыл бұрын

Joe MacPherson didn't look like the cutter was square to the work either. You will definitely have a wonky thread if your 30 deg cutter is 5 degs off in the tool holder...

I sat and I watched and I drank two sierra nevadas and am richer for the experience. Is all America like this? Wonderful!

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

+Aaron M Sounds good! It's been a while since I've had a Sierra Nevada!

Good stuff. looking forward to watching more videos. I like the double camera view too. all around good

@precisionmachineshed

4 жыл бұрын

I am in the middle of getting my "new" shop put together and once that happens I'll start making more videos.

Thanks for taking the time to make videos There awesome.

I am not a machinist, but I know as much as this guy. I reckon I have been watching too much of Joe Pie.

Great video. It never ceases to amaze me how many "experts" are commenting on KZread videos. If you don't do it their way then it's not a good way. I've been cutting threads in barrels for four years or so and I learned to set it up as you did by a gunsmith who has been running a shop for almost 30 years. Thanks for taking the time to put all this work on video.

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

+Mike Dittman No problem, thanks for the comments! There are a few other ways I do these depending on the application, but this is just a basic demonstration.

@samrodian919

6 жыл бұрын

Look at Joe Pieczinski (Advanced Innovations, Austin Texas)videos and especially his method of cutting threads AWAY from the headstock with the lathe tool upside down and the lathe in reverse. That's how to do it properly. The man is a brilliant engineer/toolmaker and designer. its a joy to watch his videos and to learn new things AND how to do it safely.

5 жыл бұрын

@@samrodian919 MD said it all, they learned to do this from a gunsmith. A machinist don't call himself a gunsmith for a damn good reason, he ain't. Every gunsmith I've ever met said they were machinists too.

Thank you for mentioning not using compressed air on a lathe. Great video. RG

@precisionmachineshed

7 жыл бұрын

No problem, Thanks!

@quickdrawmcgraw4394

Жыл бұрын

Yeah but jo pi does it so idk bout alp that.

Always wanted to learn lathe and mill ops. Never got the chance. Thnks for training session

When i've done my relief cut for threading i've used a profile too. A VNMG 541 if i remember right. I just set my angle to be parallel with the shoulder and plunge and cut to the shoulder. It leaves you with a slight angle at the end of the thread (beginning of the relief) but the threading tool cleans that up just fine. I just don't tend to have the chatter with a VNMG that i do with a groving/part off tool. Just a thought! Great video.

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

+Theren Boster hey, that is on my list of tools to get is a nice cut off tool. I do target barrels a little bit differently, but the cap is a little different too. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Considering all the negative stuff on here, i actually like the entire video. I get what some are saying but this was good! Thanks for posting and taking the time to make a good video.

@precisionmachineshed

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks

enjoyed the vid been a minute since I've been in a machine shop!

As a tool and die maker I would like to point out some things you are doing that are not safe. 1. Never wear gloves while running a lathe. If the gloves get caught, you will get hurt. 2. Do not grab the chips with your fingers, it is a good way to loose a finger. 3. Never stop a lathe chuck with your hand, especially when wearing gloves. The machine is not forgiving. If your hand gets caught, you are in a whole world of hurt. 5. Never reach over the chuck to do you filing. Always work from the front of the chuck. Once again if your arm gets caught, you will be in a world of hurt. Just for clarity, it is not called a back cut, it is called an under cut. I thought I would let you know these things, because I never want anyone to get hurt.

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

+T Hall Thanks for your concern!

@jiggers75

8 жыл бұрын

+T Hall Don't think rubber gloves are going to "pull you in". If you are so concerned, why not make a video on the absolute safest way to do this, then we can critique your methods sir.

@adamjeppson7677

8 жыл бұрын

+jason fazenbaker I am concerned that perhaps you are of the ilk that has to put your hand in the fire to see if it really will burn you. Stay as far from danger as possible and you greatly increase you chances of remaining whole for life. It only has to go wrong once.

@perrystephenson7425

7 жыл бұрын

T Hall I'm pretty sure a LaTeX glove won't pull your fingers off :)

@augerprecisionfirearms3247

7 жыл бұрын

Sure it won't, but it will jerk your hand VERY quickly into a fast moving part wedged against a sharp tool........I know I know, you are stronger than a latex glove, but when one is not expecting it your hand will move too fast in the wrong direction.

I think I just got a piece of metal in my eye. Good video I will be sure to send off my barrel to the pro's.

@precisionmachineshed

6 жыл бұрын

Not fun

Excellent job. 👍

Thanks for posting; and thanks for leaving it up. 😉

I'm glad that's not my gun

@precisionmachineshed

7 жыл бұрын

Me too! I did this video several years ago on the fly with a junk barrel after just getting my first worn out lathe set up. Had a few issues but #1 was a poor (or dull) cutting tool. Before this I always did this work in other gunsmith shops with much nicer lathes and tooling. I've since upgraded all my equipment and always cut nice sharp threads and much smaller back cuts (if needed). Never thought this video would get that much attention, but it did. I should really make an updated video.

@sammyfoister3677

4 жыл бұрын

the site name really need to be rethought on the precision part

Nice work!

@precisionmachineshed

5 жыл бұрын

thanks. New and improved video turned out much better though.

Great video 👌

I concur with T Hall. Enough said...

The middle spit in the die is suppose to be in the middle! That way you have some thread adjustment

Great video/info...glad I found you! (I subbed)

@precisionmachineshed

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks, I've got more gunsmithing videos coming up soon. I've got two barrels to install.

@djbennett6616

5 жыл бұрын

@@precisionmachineshed are you still doing this do you do work for anyone or just friends I'm located in Indiana where you located I have a Remington 700 I need some lathe work done on

Great job bro

@precisionmachineshed

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks

Thanks for this video and the followup one you did, they really helped with my school assignment.

Thanks, looks easy enough 😁 The machinist in me thinks your tools are dull and thread length was always taught 1.5 the diameter 🤓

@precisionmachineshed

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, Tools were dull.

Outstanding

Please upload your videos and show us how you do it the proper way.. he is a amatuer machinist and i dont recall him saying anything to imply his way is the right way.. its his way.. and i thank him for the content.. now im gonna go make something my way.. why dont you all just go comment on more videos about people doing it wrong... while we actually do it

Dude, you scare me to death. Your flagrant disregard for safety will eventually maim you. 1. lose the gloves. 2. Buy a compressor and blow the chips off with a controllable air nozzle. 3. Keep your hands off the spinning parts. Period. 4. Respect the power you are playing with; a lathe that smoothly cuts through metal will not even slow down when it sucks you into it. No shit, seriously! If you've not been trained in the safe methods of machine work spend the money and take the safety courses. It only has to go wrong once.

Remarkable I would like to learn more in detail .

@precisionmachineshed

4 жыл бұрын

This is an old video. There's an updated version of this video a few years back that is much better. kzread.info/dash/bejne/hZOYr7eGXdi7hNI.html

Thought I left a comet but I dont see it. heres another any way!. I like watching your videos your calm and just being yourself the quality of the video is very good too. two questions. On the brass crown lapping tool you made what degree did you use 11 or 60 degree. I would think 11 so it stays closer to the face of the lands #2 I have a 1940 south bend heavy 10 L what do they have for a spider I can buy for the back of my spindel, and who sells them. I heard reference to it called the spider the thing that holds & adjust the work center in the back of the spindle. Thank you and thanks for sharing your adventures Mike

Nice video, you made it look easy.

This is a lot more complicated than I thought

outstanding video.. showed all info needed. major and minor dia.. just curious if you'd reveal the o.d for a guide pin for a rem. 700 .308

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

+Randal Surdyk Are you referring to the pin I used in the bore? I'm not sure exactly what it is without measuring, but usually I fit each one to each bore if I don't already have one that fits. When I make one they are usually within a few 10 thousands end to end, which in most cases better than the play you get from a range rod with a bushing.

Very interesting !!!!!!!!!!

You could move that parting tool out a little further. That way you could maintain a C#

@precisionmachineshed

4 жыл бұрын

This is an old video. There's an updated version of this video a few years back that is much better. kzread.info/dash/bejne/hZOYr7eGXdi7hNI.html

Awesome watching this guy work! He does a nice job explaining every step and actually makes sense!

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

+J Rob Thanks!

@samrodian919

6 жыл бұрын

That must be an ironic piss taking comment, coz surely you ain't serious

At my job we just stand back and watch then laugh

If I had a dime for every time I read "As a ___________ of [so many years] . . ." as some sort of authoritative lead to a laundry list of KZread comments, I could retire tomorrow. It's pathetic and unnecessary. What many of you should instead be saying to the owner of this KZread channel is something along these lines: "As an individual whose lack of self-control is equaled only by my felt need to correct everyone: [insert your uninvited critiques]." After all, it's all about being accurate and correct, right?

@onazram1

5 жыл бұрын

It's sickening and happens everywhere on KZread

@daverodwell3508

4 жыл бұрын

Kinda reminds me of a quote by Will Rogers" There are three kinds of men, one that learns by reading, ones that learn by observation, and others who must pee on the electric fence for themselves" If you have been advised several time by tradesmen with many years of experience, what could you know about safety that they don't? Why not take their advice to live a long and healthy life?

Tight work

Darwin award coming up.lol

How much do you charge to do this because ive been wanting a comp on my Remington

I worked with a guy like that. he thought he knew everything. he wore gloves, before I could yell at him to tell him to take the FN gloves off he lost Two Fingers. Pulled them right out . at the knuckle at the hand.

@martycat437

4 жыл бұрын

I saw the same thing. A fabricator polishing a shaft with gloves on. At least he had something to carry the fingers in when he went to the ER that day. Sick!

Very Good! Now to see what size the pass-thru is on that lathe :D

@precisionmachineshed

9 жыл бұрын

+RGRundeRGRound That lathe was 1 3/8". I could do just about everything I wanted to with it. Thanks for watching!

@Jane4fish

8 жыл бұрын

i have a set of threading kit, it includes 5/8--24 threading die, threading alignment tool and handle, i purchased it at more than $50 and sell it at 30 dollars. it works very well, i only have used once. email me at jbptla@gmail.com

That was a great video, and you made it look very easy! Can you give a guy like me some info on what kind of lathe would be good for starting this kind of work at home? I imagine they're pretty expensive, and I can look on Craigslist, but I don't know what to look for in a quality lathe. Thanks!

@precisionmachineshed

7 жыл бұрын

That's a lengthy answer. There are several good videos on youtube that talk about what to look for when purchasing a lathe. In general 10-14" lathes work good for gunsmithing as long as they are heavy and not an atlas/craftsman. US made machines are good, but usually have some wear. Short headstocks help when going through headstock, or a steady rest. Craigslist is usually your best bet. Do a bunch of research and when buying one if you know someone that knows a thing or two about them, that helps. It all comes down to a bunch of research or experience. A smaller machine at first would work too if you wanted to upgrade later and learn the basics, or take a machining class.

nice vid. thanks

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

+jason fazenbaker Thanks, I appreciate it!

What will you charge to put half inch unf thread on airrifle barrel and cut new crown?

For suppressor mounting (including muzzle screw-on accessories), wouldn't overall concentricity between the barrel ID bore and threads, and the perpendicularity of the shoulder to the ID bore, be more precise if the barrel was first mounted between centers - to start from that kind of a setup since a lot of barrel ODs are not concentric with barrel ID bores? Can't remember completely, but I saw a barrel first mounted between centers, where one center was in the receiver end of barrel at the end of the through hole in the lathe gearbox housing and the other center in the end of the barrel where the threads were going to be machined. Don't remember all the steps taken after the centering of the barrel bore, but it would seem to me that setting it up between centers would be more accurate than indicating off of a mandrel stuck partway down the barrel. I was told that setting up between centers would assure everything (threads, shoulder, etc.) machined on the OD of the barrel would guarantee an accurate alignment of the centerline of the suppressor (when mounted) with the ID barrel centerline.

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

+Dennis Varnau Well, first, most guys that builds high end benchrest and target rifle are currently cutting barrels similar to how I do it with there being several different variations. I am basically doing the same thing as running between centers, except I'm indicating off the lands on both ends of the barrel with a tight fitting rod and it leaves almost no room for error. When you run between centers, to do it right, you must first cut 60 degree relief cuts in each end. You can do this a few different ways. You can indicate each end as I did, then cut with your compound and cutter of choice. Second, you can chuck it up in a steady rest and then cut each end, third, you can buy a piloted 60 degree cutter, which I have also, and cut your centers there. Only problem with the last two is that in a steady, you are running off the OD, which can be bad even with a floating reamer holder, and using the tight fitting piloted reamer, you still have to have some clearance for that pilot to work correctly. Would the average guy notice this? No, but when you are shooting at 600-1,000 yards, every little bit helps. There is also the problem on many barrels are not straight! when you run between centers, and you cut your threads, that bullet could be coming out at a slight angle and your brake or whatever you have on there will be off. Again, most guys won't notice. Gordy Gritters a highly respected gunsmith and builder of some extremely accurate rifles only indicates his barrels with the first 4-8" of whatever side he is cutting. He mentioned that sometimes when he indicates his barrels on the chamber end, you can see noticeable run-out on the opposite end and these rifles are match winners! There are several different ways to go about indicating a barrel, and many of them work well. The guy I learned from was an accomplished BR shooter and traveled the US and Canada in the 60's, 70's and 80's winning a lot of matches. He chambered all of his barrels by chucking one end of the barrel in a 3 jaw chuck, then running out to a steady rest on the OD, threading, then reaming with the reamer held tight in a Jacobs chuck in the tail stock. I actually have a couple of these rifles and I built a few this way and they are all 1/2 MOA or better rifles out past 600 yards! He also had several targets that were 5 shots though one bullet diameter hole witnessed by several friends on his private range! Tell me how that works! I'm going to be doing a barrel in the next month hopefully if my reamer arrives from PTG, but I have yet to decide which way I will do it. I'm confident to do it any way I want, but just figuring out which one is the problem. Just saying there's several ways to do it and depending on who you talk to, I do what I do based on other peoples experience, a lot of research, and what I feel works best.

@jhareng

7 жыл бұрын

And still got runoutYour only measuring at one point, in effect can often swing eccentric towards breach and have same effect as cutting on the piss.

Aside from less bearing area for the threads, are there any drawbacks to having such a large relief cut?

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

+ericbc7 To a point, yes it will affect it the less threads you have the weaker it will be. You want as small of a relief cut as possible and as many threads as possible.

That was the best horror video I’ve seen in a long long time, not to mention the clanking of the drive gears too give it effect! It appears that you have developed many bad habits that “will” bite you.. you’re body will never recover from it! Go back to square one and undo the bad habits.

@precisionmachineshed

4 жыл бұрын

This is an old video, thanks

@precisionmachineshed

4 жыл бұрын

First time with my own old worn out lathe and minimal tooling. Other than the threads being very rough from a dull cutter the rest turned out as intended. Prior to this video I worked with newer lathes and carbide, switching over to hss was a little learning curve along with hand grinding cutters. You must not have watched the updated video of mine on the same exact topic.

running the lathe in reverse, with the threading tool installed upside down, would allow for a much narrower thread relief. And please don't pull the chips with your hand, you'll end up loosing a finger one day.

@precisionmachineshed

4 жыл бұрын

It was the only parting tool I had at the time. I've since changed quite a few things and get much much better results.

@trek1654

4 жыл бұрын

yes dont use your hand and dont use any kind of gloves. even latex will pull you in. nice video.

sir, sorry for being off topic. is it possible to extend a glock barrel? just bought a sjc compensator. extend the length with a thread?

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

Without purchasing a new barrel, no. You can screw on anything you want, but A) a true barrel extension would be very hard to accomplish, and B) unsafe. If your barrel is to short for your comp, then you will most likely need an aftermarket barrel. Based off your info, that's my opinion.

Thank you sir for our thorough answer. I have several barrels to be machined for new Sig Sauer silencers I just purchased last year (but I have plenty of time to get them done with the months wait on getting the tax stamp from the AFT) and want to make sure they are threaded correctly first time around. Please correct me where I may be wrong in my understanding of your explanation. You said you used a "tight fitting rod" on both ends to indicate in the barrel. Essentially that takes the place of using a center on both ends (if I am comprehending correctly). A "tight fitting rod," depending on how tight of a fit there is between the lands and rod, I would think is not as "tight" as using centers on both ends, since there could be tenths error (probably of little or no consequence really) in using the setup indicating off the rods, whereas using the centers would eliminate any indicating errors and place the accuracy completely on the lathe's inherent accuracy. But either way, using the rod indicating method or putting the barrel between centers, it would seem to me both would exhibit the same end result when dealing with a "bent" or "curved" barrel. Then again, thinking about it in more detail, maybe using a "rod" that is really "tight fitting" (no play at all) inside the end of the barrel bore even two inches in depth down the bore, just might be more accurate on a "bent" barrel because when the bullet leaves the last engagement of the rifling it is probably on a trajectory straight out of the last quarter inch or so of the barrel, thus making it more in line with a suppressor screwed onto the end of the barrel using that rod indicating method, whereas indicating between centers would produce threads somewhat skewed, depending on the total "bend" or "curvature" of the barrel from one end to the other. The more I think about it, the more it seems like you would not even have to consider indicating both ends unless you want to find out how "bent" the barrel may be, which really doesn't matter when threading the muzzle end because the bullet will be going straight from the last few fractions of an inch it is last engaged in prior to free flight through the suppressor. So, the way you have shown in the video now seems to be the more accurate way to do it. And, probably making the rod of the "tightest" fit possible into the bore, with the exposed diameter of the rod being much larger than the diameter of the rod inside the barrel, would make any indicating off the larger diameter of the rod much more pronounced on the readout (like being magnified) than indicating on a smaller diameter like say a .22 or .17 caliber. Just thinking and checking. Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

+Dennis Varnau The more a guy thinks about it the more he second guesses everything! LOL.... The problem with relying on the lathes accuracy is that unless you have a brand new machine, or a newly rebuilt one (as I do) and you spend hours lining everything up, you can't rely on the lathe to be where you want it every time. That is the whole reason for indicating a barrel. If A lathe has been around for a while they usually need to have their tail stock aligned ether by a radial gauge, or a test bar which is usually 18-24" long. The problem with that to me is that it might line up next to the head stock with a radial micrometer, or at 18-24" with a test bar, but will it line up at 26+ inches if you are doing a longer barrel? How about a 12" barrel? I know my lathe would because everything has just been ground, but a 30-40 year old lathe that's been in use? Who knows? On top of that if you run between centers without first cutting a new bearing surface you are asking for run-out! Running on factory cut centers is not a reliable method. I know you can cut the face of ether end of the barrel, then run your centers on that, but some guys will argue that with the tiny amount of bearing surface in this case, you run the risk of having one side of the lands softer/harder than the other and when you tighten your barrel down, it will deviate to one side. When you cut centers with a piloted reamer, you will get much more (relatively not that much) error vs the tight rod, due to the clearance the bushing needs on the pilot. My rods only move on one axis, the X axis in and out of the bore. There is just enough clearance to get the rod in the bore and no more. Here were are talking about a few ten thousands. 0.0002-0.0004". Now the trick then becomes how close can I zero that out in my lathe with my indicators. When I was installing a lot of muzzle breaks for another gunsmith, most of the time, I would leave the action on, and run the barrel through the headstock and indicate the last 3-4"" of the barrel. You indicate close to the muzzle, then out on the end of the rod, which was usually about 3" out past the muzzle. I figure at that point, if I could zero everything out here, There would be a 6" straight path for the bullet to travel and would exit the muzzle at a concentric point to the bore of the muzzle. Most times the barrel ended up pretty straight in the lathe, but I also did a lot of Remington factory barrels, and they are horrible for being both "bent" and having horrible OD concentricity. The same gunsmith also would have me cut piloted centers, and turn the shank of the barrel so it has a concentric OD relative to the new center. He would then call these barrels "blue printed", which I guess technically is true, but using pins will get you closer to zero run-out. Don't get me wrong, these were all great shooting rifles, but like I mentioned before, my most accurate rifle, which has shot in the 0.2" range 5 shot group at 100 yards on several occasions, and consistently shoots in the 0.4-0.6 MOA range, is a 7mm Mag with a palma contour barrel which was done by chucking up in the three jaw, and out on the steady as I mentioned before! It's a hunting rifle too! Anyways, personally I would be a little scared to thread for a silencer by running between centers. Not because I would be afraid that the bullet would hit it, but I would want to make sure everything was dead concentric if I'm shelling out the cash for a silencer. It sticks out past the muzzle quite a bit further than a muzzle break which are usually no more the 2-3" out. There are better ways to do it in my opinion.

@dennisvarnau8340

8 жыл бұрын

+Precision Machine Shed Thanks again. I'm going to have my brother read over these paragraphs first, before I give him my barrels to machine. He's been doing machining since high school (then Cincinnati Milling Machine [Milacron], Cincinnati), now 61. He has several patents dealing with workholding fixturing (PROHOLD Workholding). Problem was, he's more of an inventor than business man, and his shop was more of a hobby than business really. But when it comes to working up the best way to hold something to machine, I'd put him up against anyone in the business anywhere in the world. His three jaw chucks and hydraulic vises, used in tombstones, are the most versatile and operator friendly for production machining. The IRS put him out of business and now others are making his original products. Not only were they good for manual loading, but could also be completely automated into horizontal machining cells (one I remember most was for machining the finger holes in bowling balls). Anyway, I'm sure he will be able to thread my barrels well enough for use with these new Sig Sauer cans. Master machinists are a disappearing breed of skilled craftsmen, for sure, in the US of A. We knew Ross Perot was telling us the truth back in the 1990's while we watched manufacturing in Rochester, NY (where we did a lot of workholding business) literally dry up almost completely, and head for Mexico. "I love it" when Ohio Gov. John Kasich says he's bringing back jobs after he as a U.S. Congressman at the time voted for GATT and NAFTA. Typical politician - works both sides of the problem to benefit himself only.

@samrodian919

6 жыл бұрын

if you want it done properly don't get this guy to do it! lol

can you make one for a 40cal s&w how much wood it cost for outside threaded

How much should cost total? An would that be enough space to add a suppressor ?

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

Most prices I've seen are $75-$100 to thread plus any extra parts. Prices may vary depending on where you are. Most suppressors use a standard 0.600" long thread. The one in this video would work, but it's a little short.

Nice

Well done video, good sound and the dual views are nice. Can I ask, when running at 1200, how much material are you typically removing at a time early on? The deep cuts? Obviously towards the end it's very little to get a good finish. Thanks.

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

+Jason Keim about .020-0.030" per pass. When you know you need to take 0.150" off, you can take a few HEAVY cuts, remeasure, then decrease your cut depth the closer you get. On your final couple passes you should be taking 0.002-0.003" per pass to get to your final dimensions. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching and commenting.

@jasonkeim2061

8 жыл бұрын

Great, thanks again for the info!!

Nice work and vid. Is the gloves not a safety risk?

@precisionmachineshed

9 жыл бұрын

Chrisjan0 Hey thanks. As far as the gloves, they are tight fitting nitrile gloves that would tear away if they ever got caught, so I'm not worried about it.

I'm not a machinist but I did stay at one of those motels?!🤣 But seriously, don't sweat it, just don't be reckless with the hands and digits.

This guy needs to watch AboM79 channel to see how to use machines, measure and cut threads properly

@Laser3303

4 жыл бұрын

ABSOLUTELY!

is there a link to your website? Or a place to talk about services that need to be completed? Thanks

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

You can email me at precisionmachineshed@gmail.com or check out my facebook page and message me. Thanks

When I was doing my apprenticeship, it was safety safety safety. The instructors told the story of a lad with a baggy shirt who got towed in by the chuck. The tool in the post ripped his arm open to his armpit and broke it in several places before anyone could get to him and turn it off. No gloves, same as grinding, no gloves with moving parts, period. Use barrier cream if you're worried.

What are you using between the chuck jaws and the barrel? What is the rod you use to indicate the bore?

@precisionmachineshed

5 жыл бұрын

I can't remember what I used here. I now use a Copper #4 gauge wire. The rod used is a PTG indicating rod. I think I used a home made rod in this video though. There are also several other ways to indicate including using a long stem test indicator, and Grizzly Rods.

what about the crowning

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

+sea man In this case, I left the original crown. Another way to do it is to cut a concentric relief cut on the outside edge of the crown. I haven't seen an accuracy diffence so ether way works.

What thread size/pattern would be good for a 9.3x62 Mauser? Bullet Diameter is .366. My 223 Rem is 1/2"-28.

@precisionmachineshed

7 жыл бұрын

Hey, I would throw a 5/8"x24 brake on there. Should be plenty of barrel after threading.

I'm curious, what happened to the barrel? Did you hand it back to the customer? Has the customer provided feedback on the work? Enough comments have been made about the video here and I've seen the link for the updated version. But I'd really like to know if that barrel is still in use?

@precisionmachineshed

4 жыл бұрын

It was my barrel. Other than too long of an undercut and some tear on the threads, it worked fine and the thread was still in spec. There are tolerances for barrel diameter that need to be followed when making those undercuts. This was the first one I did in about 3 years after I had purchased a cheap lathe, and not the best tooling. I upgraded my equipment and made the second video. I've again upgraded my tooling since that second video. Top notch stuff now.

Thank-you. ~M~

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

+Mike A Drover Sure, thanks for watching and leaving a comment!

Thank God for Quick Change Tool Post and tool holders! No chamfer on the end to ease threading?

@precisionmachineshed

7 жыл бұрын

Yeah, they are nice. No chamfer, but if you wanted to do a really nice one you would recess the threads and match a cap so it is all seamless and invisible.

@MegaTattoo69

5 жыл бұрын

Which god Bob? I don't think Thor gives a rats ass about your barrel =_)

is it possible to thread an 25 acp barrel? thought it would be kinda funny to put a silencer on alil 25 lol

@precisionmachineshed

6 жыл бұрын

Possible, maybe but your barrel might not have enough meat to put a thread on.

@8.0 or so, 'I'm going to slow it down some more, the bit...'. I'm thinking how about lubricate the damn work!

@precisionmachineshed

5 жыл бұрын

Ah, yes...... how things have changed.

Did you use a travel indicator for your tool travel stop point?

@precisionmachineshed

7 жыл бұрын

no, everything was measured.

Could you show opening a bolt face for a 98 Mauser?

@geraldknapp4958

4 жыл бұрын

Why would you want to try open up the bolt face for a 98 Mauser what are your Wylie Coyote

How much does something like this usually cost for a customer?

My freind i have an heavy barrel AR15 24” stainless still no thread so can you do the work also more info of you SHOP thanks i want to instal an flash suppress THANKS

@precisionmachineshed

Жыл бұрын

apexcustomrifles@gmail.com

Flip your threading tool upside down and run the lathe in reverse. Thread from the relief out and in high speed. I've converted to this and its much easier and faster. Threads turn out better with the higher rpm and carbide inserts. nice trick using the scotch brite on the ends of the brush

@precisionmachineshed

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks, I've thought about that, but I just got rid of the lathe, got a better one, and learned to sharpen HSS. Life is good now. The new video I did on this subject shows the results. thanks!

good video brother

I ENJOYED THE PROCESS .....WHEN YOU WORK FOR YOURSELF .....YOU ONLY HAVE TO PLEASE THE CUSTOMER 😎

thats really cool. nice job. I wanna learn how to do this stuff. i inherited a late 90's model cnc lathe and milling machine and I have no idea how to use it. Do you know where would I get advice on a good gunsmithing or machining school to learn how to do this? Im in Atlanta Ga.

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

There are a few ways to go about learning. The easiest would be to find a local gunsmith that would be willing to teach you. You might have to work for little to nothing at first. Another option is to take a local machining course at a technical school to learn how to run those machines. Finally you could enroll in a gunsmithing program. I'm sure there are a few around but a couple of the more popular ones are Trinidad Tech in Colorado, and Pine City CC in Minnesota. I was fortunate enough to have a few guys teach me and I read and practiced a lot. Most of gunsmithing is doing repairs. If you want to become a builder, that's another game. I'm into building and don't really do repairs anymore. I also am not currently doing work for other people.

@southernwaytransport

8 жыл бұрын

Thank you very much for taking the time to explain that. Can you make a good living doing repairs and custom jobs? I looked at a few schools around me..it seems the better ones are several months long. And I will contact all the local gunsmiths to see if they can take me on...maybe even have a place to setup my machines. Im willing to work for free a couple days a week for a few months to get started so I'll shop that idea around. I meant to ask.. I have an Acer dynamic 1740g 17" engine lathe will that do gun work? Again, thank you very much.

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

That's a large lathe. It will definitely do barrel work, but you may run into a few hurdles with the length or your head stock if you want to go through the head stock. You can always work around that though. As far as making a living, everyone I know started doing it as a hobby and eventually went full time into it and made a decent living.

How much does something like this typically cost? I have a rem 700 with a 26in heavy barrel. Would like to be able to add a muzzle break or suppressor.

@precisionmachineshed

4 жыл бұрын

well, if I did it, it would look much better than tthe one in the video. Usually around $100. Takes time to set it up and indicate everything before actually cutting it.

@TBone0865

4 жыл бұрын

@@precisionmachineshed thanks for the reply. Good to know. I wish you were in Phoenix, Arizona!

That is some rough cut thread.

@OldTooly

4 жыл бұрын

Dear god they looked like they were cut with a garden rake. Oh I would have been fired 48 years ago when I started training in tooling, for turning in work like that. 30degree thread form tool, compound set at 30degrees(some guys swear by 29degrees), clearanced across the cutting edge 10 degrees on the front edge and about 15degrees across the top. The trailing edge(back edge) should not cut but I have been known to do a wipe at near 0 by moving the saddle (not the compound) about .0002"-.0005" with a well lubed up tool. This has been beneficial on some ornery stainless steel that just resisted finishing nicely. Honestly I have used the same tool for decades so precision of those angle numbers isn't that critical, other than the thread form itself. Tool height EXACTLY on center, Above will rub and tear, below will scrape rather than cut. Good cutting oil or specialty fluid helps. Nice easy slow speed, based on the material you are cutting. Cratex (rubber impregnated with abrasive) type abrasive to polish and remove the wire edge points on the threads. There are many other thread forms used in the world. I am speaking about standard UNC/UNF threading. ACME is quite a bit different as is British Associated, and forget Whitworth which is close to UNC/UNF but not exactly. Proper use of thread wires or if you've got the bucks, a thread measuring micrometer is needed to do threads correctly to size. Just fitting to someone else's work might get this one job done, but might not fit someone else's work you might want to use at a later time. This was for those who said they wanted some constructive advice and not just critiquing the OP's work. And the gloves are a recipe for disaster on any machining process or machine tool. But that's a talk for another time as it involves a lot of detailed discussion. And thanks for the video anyway.

what is the advantage of using a lathe for this rather than a tap and die set? Other than cutting the diameter for the threads..................

The main reason he wears gloves is so that the ambulance driver can find the fingers easier.

@precisionmachineshed

3 жыл бұрын

Yep, keeps it from getting dirty when it falls on the floor.

@jaymac1022

3 жыл бұрын

I think the rubber glovers are fine man he looks strong enough that the glove would probably give way before his fingers fell of haha

I have a question..I`m teaching myself how to be a machinist. In the close up of your threads it seems as though the sides or flank(I think they call it) of the thread is not a clean(crisp) cut. Why is that ? Is it chatter ? Your lathe ? or the tooling ? I`m not trying to be critical because I can`t even cut a thread yet..I`m just wondering what causes that ?

@precisionmachineshed

7 жыл бұрын

Yeah, was a couple things, but mainly a dull cutting tool, and deep cuts instead of taking more lighter cuts. Having a really sharp cutter, correct height, and a solid setup helps. This was a bad thread, but the video got popular quick, so I just let it fly. Your first couple cuts can be 5 thou on the compound, then usually drop down to 3 thou until you get close, then 1-2 thou per cut when you are getting close.

@georgemesser5655

2 жыл бұрын

I’m not a machinist so forgive the lack of vocabulary please. I think the thread cutting tool should be advanced at an angle (maybe 60 degrees?) . This keeps the chatter down because you’re not balanced between the left and right thread faces equally. I think there’s a good book called something like “the machinists handbook” If that’s too thick for you try YouTubing “this old tony” for some seriously entertaining machining.

Wow, what a perfectionist. Nicely done ✔ 👏

Very entertaining and educational. Great video.

I like the video even with all the know-it-all's chiming in at the bottom=_) The only thing I didn't understand was why after this nice job, you cut the thread protector? It felt to me like an artist that didn't know when to stop and call it finished... ???

@precisionmachineshed

5 жыл бұрын

I didn't want the crown recessed into a threaded protector, which would then cause the inside of the thread protector to become part of the muzzle. Not good for accuracy.

I liked the thread protector when it was longer.

@precisionmachineshed

4 жыл бұрын

This is an old video. There's an updated version of this video a few years back that is much better. kzread.info/dash/bejne/hZOYr7eGXdi7hNI.html

Which cold blue process and product do you use?

@precisionmachineshed

6 жыл бұрын

Oxpho-Blue www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/paste-cold-bluing-chemicals/counter-displays-prod41612.aspx

This is going to sound stupid to a machinist but I've got a 1/2-28 die, do I turn my muzzle down to .500 before I thread it?

@precisionmachineshed

6 жыл бұрын

Yes, that's correct.

@shanek6582

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks man.

This was hard to watch.

Amigo muy buen trabajo, solo mi opinion, no trabajes con esos guantes te va a jalar el torno

Rip Remington

Hell with gloves I need to feel the heartbeat of that lathe.....if u ain't wet u not swimming

@precisionmachineshed

6 жыл бұрын

I'm a doctor and work with my hands every day. Patients appreciate not being worked on with dirty greasy hands.

don't wear jewelry,, gloves or long sleeves while running a lathe. keep you fingers and hands away from a turn chuck, use the stop.

@raymundoortiz7269

3 жыл бұрын

the use of protective gloves while working metals is always correct and mandatory ... but there are people who like to put their hand in the Chuck while is turning, that is the problem ...

Does the barrel need to be taken completely out of the Rifle or can the treading be done with the barrel in the Rifle? The reason I ask is because a gun Smith would charge about $100 bucks to take the barrel off and an additional $100 to reinstall the barrel and space it correctly. The barrel treading and tread adapter would cost about $100. Is that about ? So. We're looking at about $300 bucks for this job.

@precisionmachineshed

8 жыл бұрын

If someone is charging that much I would recommend looking elsewhere for the service. Removing a barrel and putting it back on in 98% of the cases is a pretty quick and easy job with the correct tools which if they are a good gunsmith they should have. I think we used to knock barrels off and on for $20 a few years ago. If they needed to be headspaced (like a Savage) maybe $40 to do that. That doesn't take long ether. If they were old military actions (Enfields, 1903's, or Mosins) there is a potential for an extra charge because they are a higher risk of pulling a barrel and usually require more effort than say a modern 700 Rem. Then again, sometimes they just screw off without a hitch! There is really no need to pull the receiver off the barrel to do this. You can, but it can also be done with the action on. I've done a lot of Muzzle brakes with the receiver still on the barrel. You just need to indicate the muzzle end properly which should be done regardless of what's hanging off the other end. Many barrels other than the Savage type lock nut barrels can be marked with a witness mark to indicate the barrel on the receiver. When it is put back on, then eliminating the need to headspace it again. This job minus the muzzle brake work if needed, was like an $80-$100 job when I was doing it. Installing a muzzle brake was usually around $200-$250 with a brake.

@jackwayne2993

8 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your time in explaining that.

Sawtooth threads, too.

Measure twice, cut once. Ok for personal use, but cutting the threads short and then cutting the thread protector short to fix the problem for a customer is a no go.

WHY DIDNT YOU MAKE THE CUT .750 DEEP?