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These Cranks Are BETTER Than Shimano and SRAM
Do the stock Shimano and SRAM cranksets not work for you? Here are some better alternatives!
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Пікірлер: 348
Link to mentioned Nerd Crank Database: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1XEFMbNAjIo2FQ2t3yVPH7yIvtJSfcWGx9Q9jpq9dduk/edit#gid=0
@davidstaudohar6733
Жыл бұрын
I've invented the zero gravity bicycle, and was Rob blind by the patent companies, I also invented a single sealed crank, with a grease fitting in the bottom of it, I break out my grease gun pump the cylinder up, watch the grease lose from the seal and I know that I have a packed Crank that will never rust because air can't get to it, my next endeavor is to make sealed hubs for the wheel, 3 Zurich fittings can keep your bicycle rolling a lifetime maybe five lifetimes ♦️♦️♦️ Diamond Dave ❤️‼️
@mydearriley
Жыл бұрын
How do we join your discord?
Great video! I love the Silver low/low in 34/24, perfect for an old guy like me who turns 61 this month. If I max out 34/11 I just coast. 😅 I installed the VO Grand Cru 46/30 on my daughter’s Pass Hunter. It’s a beautiful crank but one thing to be aware of is the minimal clearance between the crank arm and the outer ring, which is great for the knees but pretty severely limits which front derailleurs will work. Another classic is the Sugino XD2 triple, probably my favorite of all time and still a super deal. I don’t believe it’s rated for off road use, so it may not be useful for many in your audience, but it’s hard to beat for road use. Remove the big ring and replace it with a guard and you have a really nice 34/24 + guard.
for heavier touring, I set up my Surly Troll for Latin America trips with an old school 44/32/22 and 11-34, Gevenalle shifters which work great. I have spent months on the bike on all kinds of roads, all kinds of gradients, all kinds of surfaces--and still feel a triple like this works so , so well for the type of touring I've done riding through Central America, Mexico or France or wherever. Gearing range 17- 103 g.i. I dunno, with front friction shifting being so nice, smooth, silent, etc the positives of a triple still really appeal. And I'm not a grumpy old retro grouch, I love riding my STI bike, and my 1x fatbike too, but I have always had the same view as yours regarding lower gearing. Been touring since 89 and even lightly loaded, most bikes have stupid high gears, so these smaller doubles really make sense.
Long live Square Taper!
@Jacob99174
Жыл бұрын
Objectively, why?
@slowwerthensnot
Жыл бұрын
@@Jacob99174 doesn’t require anything crazy for bb , cheap bb last quite a long time, I seem to get a year plus without creaking, fine tune chainline with different bb spindles…..
@Jacob99174
Жыл бұрын
@@slowwerthensnot limits your options for cranksets, however I can dig that!
@Ferrichrome
Жыл бұрын
I have a 20 year old bike that does not creak, I don’t know what type of crank or BB it is though
@ZhengZL69
Жыл бұрын
I feel like square tapers are harder to maintain because you need more tools (the spindle extractor) and I feel something like Shimano's hollowtech system is more efficient. You can do everything with an Allen key and it is usually both lighter and maintenance free as long as the tolerance on the bb shell is good and the bearings are well sealed.
I have been using spa cycle chainsets for three years now and find them excellent, unbelievable value, very versatile and well made.
Square taper has been around so long, it just works. Looks better than hollow cranks imo. love my old 130/74 triple. I run it 39/28 with a 44 outer chainring as a bashplate. I can manually shift to the outer ring if I really want to use it.
I'm in a big triple groove right now. Got a 52-42-30 on my all road bike and a classic 42-32-22 on my ATB, both used from my local co-op. Middle ring and largest cog is a good combo for max efficiency, and shifting to a smaller chainring after that as a bailout gear makes for an easy shift
@lunam7249
Жыл бұрын
triples!!!❤
I have created my own Campagnolo 46/30 sub-compact from a Record Triple crankset. 46T 135bcd ring in the middle position. 30T 74bcd ring in the inner position. Of course, I can go much lower with 74bcd. To keep things looking nice, I have a chainguard in the outer position. Looks lovely 👌
Another option, especially if you want/need true low gears for loaded touring, is to buy older Suntour XC Pro/Expert MicroDrive cranks with the 94/56mm BCD, then you can easily achieve a 6:1 or greater overall range of gearing. I have this on my 531ST touring bike, and using a 12-34 cogset and 20/32/46 chainrings I have a 15.9" low to 103.5" high with a 6.5 overall range, just right for getting heavy loads over the mountains without destroying my knees, yet the higher gears are good for unloaded rides as well. The 56mm inner chainrings still show up on eBay, and being steel they last a very long time. I rode across the US many years ago with a SR Apex 5TG crankset (a copy of the Stronglight 99) with 52/36 rings and a Regina 14-28 freewheel, and my knees are still hurting from that. By the time I later toured India and Nepal I was using 44/28 and 13-34, so my present gearing is just a logical evolution from that.
@imrevadasz1086
Жыл бұрын
Yeah I'm I'm currently trying to find a crankset for 94/58 (5 arm mount, whatever the exact mm are), because I have 40/30/20 chainrings left from a used crankset with extremely seized pedals, and that would be just perfect for long days in the Alps with a 12-36 or 11-40 cassette.
I splurged on the René Herse 46/30 and have no regrets. I'm at 12000 miles and still on my first set of sprockets, first cassette, second chain. These suckers are lasting! I did recently buy a replacement 46T ring when they came in stock, just so I'll have it when I need it. I'm in the 46T 95% of the time.
@SurpriseMeJT
Жыл бұрын
Which front derailleur are you using?
So glad to hear you mention a 42-28 on a Salsa Vaya. I have been running a 42-28 with an 11-36 cassette on my Vaya for about 8 years putting thousands of miles on this set up including 6 loaded tours (yes of course replacing chain rings, cassettes and chains). This gearing has been perfect for me. Anything bigger than 42 teeth on a chain ring is unnecessary for party pace. Unloaded I spend most of the time in the 42 tooth chain ring and loaded I spend most of the time in the 28 tooth chain ring.
@lunam7249
Жыл бұрын
yep my friend..you have discovered true cycling...not that fucking corn cob bullshit on tour de france bikes!! megarange 34 tooth forever!!
A GREAT vid Russ. A badly needed overview of non aspirational/realistic cranks for adventure cycling. I’ve not seen such a great synopsis anywhere else. Thanks.
Glad to see Spa getting a mention! I have a set of 42/26’s from them. Excellent value and great quality crankset. Lots of other very useful stuff of their website.
The Sugino cranks and Stronglight chain rings from Spa Cycles are excellent and very good value too. I used them to fit a Powertap C1 power meter to a 1991 Rossin Matrix. So that's a left/right power meter on a square taper crankset with toeclips - and it works a treat! My Audax bike had a Stronglight 80 crankset running 46+32T, long before it was fashionable. Those cranks will allegedly take a 28T inner also available from Spa Cycles.
I like triples. Sugino offers beautiful cold forged cranks in 48-38-28 or 46-36-26 and other combos. These have been around for decades. Price is around $200 to $300 . Also, Shimano makes the Sora trekking series crankset that comes stock on the Salsa Marrakesh touring bikes 48-36-24, as I recall. Not the most beautiful but works well.
I just wanted to say that while I agree that the SunXCD crankset is a fantastic crankset. I have one on my Bridgestone RB-T set up 3x with the 110 BCD spider with a VO Drillium 48t, TA 36t, and an old Suntour 24t in the granny spot. I'd like to get another one to run 1x on my Gorilla Monsoon, which is how I know they are not available seemingly ANYWHERE. I really hope SunXCD does another run of them, because I love them and that 50.4/110 BCD spider is also a great piece they should make more of. With it, you can use old TA and Stronglight 50.4 bcd cranks with the vast array of 110 and 74 bcd rings on the market. The VO Grand Cru 50.4 is a reasonable alternative, but they don't sell it without the rings, so you'll have to pay $200 and throw away the rings if you want something different than what comes on them. I wish VO would sell more chainrings, but also I wish they would sell their cranks sans rings so we could buy our preferred combo elsewhere, and I wish they would sell a 50.4 narrow/wide single ring in 38t or 40t for 1x
Splurged on a Silver 2-piece 32/22 a while back and am delighted to no end. Spends most of its time on the local singletrack trails (which are expansive, technical & year-round here in Gorham, Maine thanks to our local army of NEMBA volunteers :), but also commutes/runs errands, etc. Outer guard is thick enough to bash into occasional fallen trees without issue while smooth enough to slough off my slacks with nary a tear as well, and was able to align chainline to my 11-spd BridgeClub no problem (plus included rings run 11 without issue). Paired to albatross bars (with pogies:) & microshift thumby (indexing a bit touchy with Deore, but a fraction of Shimano's 11 plus multiple adapt's: $$$). Happy, happy! My other fav is the samox crank for direct-mount rings. May be a square taper but cost me $25 and I was able to mount a WolfTooth camo bashguard spider with elliptic s.s. ring! Sand it down and drill a few holes with shallow countersinks and it even looks retro-modern!!
Glad you have addressed this subject. Gearing has always been a problem for some of us, especially us mules that wind up hauling trailers or other people's stuff on tours. I gave up on aspirational gears after considering the tourist's number one rule: "Never go faster than you are willing to crash". I'm running a Shimano triple 46-36(?)-22 with a highly modified rear cassette 14-50. People who don't pull trailers don't know why I'd want such low gears, but when towing 100 lb. (45 kg) it is absolutely necessary.
The Spa cycles are a touring triple crank adapted into a super compact double with a chainguard in the outside position - great quality for the price and the square taper allows chain line to be easily adapted
@eph.merelta9664
Жыл бұрын
It is, too bad they won't ship to the EU. It's comparable to the Albion crankset (or even the same-ish?). Edit: they do ship small items again!
Interesting video Russ, I am still running 3 x 9 on my tourer as it just refuses to fail! this has 11-36 Shimano on the rear and 42 - 32 - 22 on the front. This gives a huge range even running 29" x 50mm tyres but I rarely use the 42 apart from on the road and unloaded. I keep threatening to convert the bike to a super low two ring x 11 speed mtb setup using one of those huge rear rings but this system just keeps going!
Thank you for talking about the tremendous overgearing on bicycles. My 1x10 has a front 34 tooth, rear 11-36. Yes it is low geared but I have spent more time in 34 11 while riding. I spends my money and want to use all those gears instead of saving them for the day I plummet off a cliff. Keep up the good work demystifying the hype.
Great video! I agree that MTB double works absolutely great for touring or bikepacking. Not that long ago you could get Shimano MTB cranks in 38-24 which was spot on in terms of low-to-high gears. For some reason Shimano recently switched to having 10t space between gears, so now you get 38-28, 36-26 etc. Still, 36-26 will let you climb any gradient you'd ever need (even with panniers) and 36 isn't that bad for flat too (unless you use super skinny tires, then it becomes a bit low). It is also possible to use brifters with MTB front derailleurs, a bit tricky to set-up but with careful adjustment it can be done and works fine. That being said, without bags or panniers "standard gravel" 46-30 should be enough to climb anything.
Cool piece! Square tapered is a no go if you are a hard charging (MTB/Gravel) rider over 85 kilos. It’s a mechanical standard because it’s the cheapest way to interface cranks with a bottom bracket, not the best way/better way. All the square tapered cranks I tried failed (came loose, deformed or broke at the interface). I have been on the 24mm Shimano threaded bb interface for more than 20 years. Cheap, simple and effective. Never a problem and all the gears you want cheaply available.
@LammersQuarter
Жыл бұрын
@@PRH123 they didn’t jump their bikes to my knowledge…
Hi, Russ - The Spa Cycles compact cranks are copies of the Sugino Alpina 2 triple (mentioned in Frank Berto’s history of derailleur gears) for a fraction of the Japanese maker’s prices. They are eminently versatile, from 24 teeth on the 74 BCD inside lugs, to beyond the mid-50 tooth on the outside of the 110 outside spider. Rings are produced by Spa, or you can buy pricier kit in the form of TA rings. On my bikes I use them as a triple (with Dura Ace 7700 derailleurs), a double (with Campag Nuovo Record derailleurs), and a single (middle ring with shims to take the place of the outside ring on the spider) on a converted Kona 90s MTB with a Shimano Altus 8 speed rear derailleur and an 11-34 rear cassette. I would not use any other crankset . . . Perfect! The Fossill
The White Industries Eno crank uses a square-taper bottom bracket and is compatible with the VBC chainrings. I love my square tapers!
Agree Russ. A smaller chainring is lighter than the 11 & 12 speed cassette cogs. One can also use 10, 9 or 8 speed cassettes for weight savings and use a shorter & stronger chain with the benefit of a better chain-line. The longer life and lower expense of less gears is another benefit. One can also eliminate the front derailleur and use the smaller chainring for only the anticipated steep climbs as you once demonstrated. 👍
I you are not afraid of triples, the Sugino XD2 500 is still available, and you can set it up easily as a 46-34-24 (smallest middle is 34, smallest 3rd is 24). Again, another square taper bottom bracket (JIS) is used, but these are not hard to find. The cost is reasonable, and the finish is good.
@Fatbutnotflat
Жыл бұрын
Is sugino mighty taper = JIS?
@kimstrickland65
Жыл бұрын
@@Fatbutnotflat I just tried out a Sugino Mighty Comp that I pulled from a bike recently, and tried it out on some JIS and ISO (Campy) bottom brackets. It fits on both, which is not surprising, since they have the same taper. The taper extends a little bit farther on ISO, so the narrow end is a little narrower on the ISO bb. With a bit of wear on the crank tapers, you might run the risk of bottoming out on an ISO bb spindle when you tighten the crank bolts, but for one in very good condition there should not be a problem. I would still use anti-seize compound on the flats before assembling. The reason I did not mention the old Sugino Mighty is that the BCD of the crank is 144mm, which limits you to a small chainring of 42 teeth (there were a few 41 tooth 144 BCD chainrings, but those are a bit rare), which is a bit large for the small ring for touring or poorly paved roads.
Two thing; 1. You don't even have to rummage through a bin for the 50.4 chainrings. Spécialités T.A. still makes them to this day! 2. Another 46/30 crank is made by the British Chater-Lea.
I went with Velo Orange and also found other parts at the local co-op and it went great. The BB width has been a little challenging due to my ignorance but it’s gettin solved easy enough now.
@lunam7249
Жыл бұрын
most BB are in between 67mm - 73mm this will fit most cranksets with or without spacers..
I have a Sugino-made White Industries crankset (44-32-22) on my Riv and it’s both cool af. It’s supremely practical as I live in a hilly area and so climb and descend quite a bit. I think Silver or RH would be my choice were it not for my WI. Great vid dude!
@davidhale1568
Жыл бұрын
Ha I’ve got one of them on my old titanium airborne works a treat
My Trek 2020 520 Grando came stock with 42/28 and 11-36 10 speed. I think it's a fantastic combo and probably the last of its kind that you can get off the showroom floor from a major manufacturer.
Another boost for Spa Cycles' TD-2 cranks and custom rings. I run a 46-30- bash guard on a Shimano 113 square taper and a 2x Shimano l05 fd on my Homer. 38-24-bash guard on 118 Stronglight square taper with a Shimano Exage 3x fd (28.6 readily available and cheap on ebay), for the day I go triple on my Atlantis (max 2.4 tyres). Spa Cycles can give all the chainline/bb options advice you may need. Unless you get the boss on a bad day, the staff are superb! The opposing reviews you may find always make me laugh but having spoken directly with staff, they are very friendly!
I tried the Rene Herse crankset two years ago and love it! It is a high price but the quality is unbeatable. I bought the crankset to tour, I am setup with an 8 spd cassette with 11x34. The rings I chose are a 46 and 26. Last year I was on a long tour of 8159 miles crossing the US east-west and then west-east. I carried 50 pounds of gear on my bike and the 24 tooth ring lasted 20,000 miles before replacing. I will be touring again this year and wanted a fresh set of rings so I changed them with life still in them.
Feel like joining the biking Contras against the Eagles! There are so many more great crank choices out there using square taper bottom brackets than there are for press fit or external bearing types. It took me a while but after too many times having to tweak a Box 9 or Eagle GX system while my resto-mod 2x or even 3x keep spinning, I am a convert. This is great peek into your experience. I have also watched some of the pitfalls with Henry Wildeberry.
I used square taper cranks for years because that was all that was available back in the 70's and 80's. When Shimano came out with Octa-link, I switched in a hurry because it was the first time I didn't have to live with "chainring wobble" that made trimming the front derailleur frequently necessary. Sadly Octa-link is history now. If one is contemplating a crankset that uses a square taper spindle, make sure the bottom bracket and the crank are compatible. The current standard is JIS spindles and cranks that provide a more stable connection, that's to say, less wobble.
If you’re doing a vintage road… never forget the Campagnolo gran sport 116bcd. They are a great way to run a semi compact on a vintage super record. I hoarded a bunch of 50t and 35 t chainrings before people discovered them.
@lunam7249
Жыл бұрын
most campanolo vintage is 135mm BDC , very expensive and hard to find along with suntour biopace
You can swap GRX chainrings only - this is probably the cheapest option - for instance company Gebhardt in Czech republics makes GRX chainring in wide range for 1x and 2x drivetrains. I am using 26/42 from them with no issues
I got a Silver 32/22 on my RivGus and it's been perfect: I can spin up nearly every grade I've ridden (except the insane ones) and with standard 9-speed in back I have plenty of top end for my retrogrouch legs to play with.
Old school 110/74 mtb cranks work perfect as doubles. You can find these practically free if you look. I run 24/42 on one bike with a newer mtb double Deore front derailleur (m616) Shifts great! Best thing you can do is get an adjustable chainline type BB like a Phil Wood or older Race Face. IRD's newer BBs are fine as well. I just set up my monster cross/bike packer with 94/58 mtb cranks. I'm running seriously low 20/36 c'rings on this one for all day loaded big mountain trail rides. On these sort of set ups, finding the correct front derailleur is the KEY. The mtb double derailleurs work well because they allow getting the cage close to the big ring without the bottom tip of the cage touching the chainstay. Triple or road derailleur won't allow that. It took me quite awhile to find this front derailleur and dial it all in. Front derailleurs can be tricky on a custom set up. Friction shifting is also the bomb! You're not limited by silly unnecessary clicks for 2 gears. Friction allows infinitely trimming the derailleur. There's no point in indexing two freakin gears. Triple cranks are truly the best for long mixed road/singletrack, all day rides. But you need to understand how to shift!
@ehounshell
Жыл бұрын
What are some MTB double FDs to search for? Would be grateful for Shimano parts numbers, for example.
@rollinrat4850
Жыл бұрын
@@ehounshell Shimano M616 for standard round seat tubes on my bikes. I believe it works as top or bottom pull. They include shims for different diameter seat tubes. 28.6-34.9mm I think. Anytime you install a custom, non stock gear set up, there can be fit issues and fiddling around required. You may need to buy extra parts to find what's perfect. The Deore series is affordable enough to buy a bit extra. You can always sell it later. If you have direct mount, e type or other proprietary type front derailleurs, good luck. Those are a certain challenge for custom non stock gearing. If I set up custom gearing for customers, they will pay extra for my time and the parts involved. Front derailleurs can be trickier than rears. Rear derailleurs are more 'standardized' in regards to how they bolt on. Frames tubes, geo and gearing are all different. Tube diameter, tube shape, frame geo, pull direction and other variables effect what front derailleur you can use. It took me a bit of experimenting to find out what worked on my bikes. The front derailleur you use depends totally on the frame and your crank. For my normal and very standard, old school metal frames, I use standard round clamps. Some of the front derailleurs I still use are over 40 years old. I hate proprietary junk and avoid it like the freakin plague. It's why my bikes are mostly decades old and many are custom built EXACTLY the way I want them. I never ever use my money to purchase compromise. I get exactly what I wanted and it's perfectly reliable for really long rides.
My 2x bikepacker is setup with 34/24 and 11-42 with 29x2.5 and has been pretty decent, but I agree it is not hard to spin out when unloaded, or on any sort of downhill. I also recently picked up a 90’s 26er, despite your warnings, with 44/32/22 setup with 11-34 out back, and it has reminded me that triple rings are pretty great at both ends. At $100 it might be cheaper to buy an old bike than a new crankset if you want to try things out (if you ignore the couple hundreds bucks in parts and a few weekends to get the rust heap rolling nicely again).
@ehounshell
Жыл бұрын
Love my 44/32/22 * 11-34 dadbike. 22 for hauling the kid trailer over the mountain. 44 for zooming across town.
With my vintage bikes and even a neo retro one, I ALWAYS go with square taper. I’ve had some for almost 5 years and they still spin silent and fast. Plus how easy it is to adjust the Q factor if you have a few laying around when going from frame to frame!
I've used the VO, IRD, and René Herse cranks. They've all been great in my experience. I also have a '53 Galmozzi Super Competizione with the Stronglight 49D crank that the VO is based on -- modern materials are a lot better! I like the Herse cranks the most for elegance and the sheer range of options. I'm also in the process of turning a 3x Sugino Impel into a double - 36t Spécialités T.A. "middle" ring (Wolf Tooth narrow chainring bolts) and 22t Vuelta inner. That might be too spinny but we'll see!
I find crank sets to be difficult to find and very expensive. Difficult to find meaning I don't want to buy anything from outside my country (Canada) and get stung with rediculous shipping and duty. You've given some great options, thanks. I've actually bought second hand bikes just so I could get the crank set.
I use the Velo Orange its great looks great on a retro bike and gives good low gears for older riders
Maybe someone already noticed this detail, in comparing the Sugino XD2 to the SPA CYCLES TD2/RD2, the SPA TD2/RD2 has all 5 chainring bolts exposed, minor detail, but worth noting. Didn't know about the TD2/RD2, wow, an insane price point, wondering if there's some sort of hidden catch? Love that you can get a silver set with a black bash guard.
I changed out the chainring on my Liv road bike. Went with FSA SLK. Very pleased and didn’t break the bank either.
Square taper all the way. Last 10x longer than the dross that was supposed to replace it. A big thumbs up for Spa Cycles. Their web site is like a time warp to 1990's homespun web design but a solid company that know their stuff. Also a shout out for Middleburn cranks (UK company) that make some great options. A well timed video as I am just mid-struggle deciding the transmission for a new build. Glad you made it back from Europe safe and sound!
Thanks for pointing out these great choices! Apart from being functional I think the chainrings are a defining part of the design of a bike - so don't be afraid to try something different!
Can vouch for the Spa Cycles crankset! Got the 40/24 on my 90s MTB gravel grinder and it's great!
Russ you know I've been preaching 2x, four bolt mountain forever!!! Thank you for coming around! Now just take my other advice and run a 11-36 in the back with your 38-24 front combo!
SRAM high end double MTB cranks were very nice. With XX,, they had carbon cranksets with several different lengths, two q factors and chainring choices. On my touring bike, I use the 42/28 with a dropper link and a cassette with 11-42. So I have low enough gears to tour with a load and I use road double tap levers because 10 speed in SRAM can go back and forth between road and MTB shifters. Exact actuation is what they call it. It also uses a regular GXP bottom bracket.
Thanks Russ. I’ve decided to give the New Albion Clipper crank a try. Should be arriving this afternoon.
I've recently custom my Stronglight Impact triple (110/74) to 40/24 without a chainguard. It has been hard to find a suitable front mech to use with shimano brifters that has a short enough cage to mount close to the outer chainring without fouling the chainstay. I might add a large chainguard to allow use of typical road front mech. Currently using an XT 2x10 front mech but the cable pull is wrong - fortunately my brifters are 3x so there is plenty of additional pull to shift, which is rare and predictable. It's fine because the shifting is infrequent but I am keeping my eye out for a well priced short-cage front mech that will not foul the chainstay e.g. IRD sub-c, Microshift 74s, BURD, Shimano CX70. I totally agree with Russ that 40/24 is spot on for recreational all-road riding.
Great video! I recently tried to find a budget friendly sub compact double and the spa cycles kind of crank (Sugino XD2 copy) was what i decided to go with, if i would set up my old trek 970 with brifters. Well i probably wont, because the bike is unfortunately a bit too small and just doesnt justify the investment but thats another story. Here in Europe there is also the Stronglight Impact Crankset available, depending on where you can source it for under 100 Euros, too.
I've been shopping for an XC hardtail for bikepacking and it's virtually impossible to buy anything with a double nowadays. I was looking at the Trek Police bike online, it has a 10-speed 11-42 cassette with a 26/36, I thought "wow! that's the perfect setup!!" And it comes with 29x2.2" tires and a rear rack!!! It's very telling about the industry that they would build such a practical bike and not offer it to the public.
30t small ring w/ the huge cogs available today will still get you a gear that is slower than getting off the bike & walking. Back in the day Triples often has a 28t granny gear paired to much smaller big cog on the rear.
@lunam7249
Жыл бұрын
yep. correct.. a 30 tooth nice for road bikes....some mountains are super steep and older people dont like the knee pain so prefer a a 22 front with 34 rear ....yes, maybe "slower" that walking up mountain, but wayyyyy more effficient and less tiring....😮🎉❤
@rollinrat4850
Жыл бұрын
It's good to get off the bike sometimes and walk. Use some different muscles. Smell the flowers. It's not a race. It's party pace!
@lunam7249
Жыл бұрын
@@rollinrat4850 yes, sometimes i go to the gym and do deep squats to get the different muscle groups worked...
TA / Stronglight /VeloOrange cranks can go 44/26 lowest plenty of chain rings available brand new. I retrograded my rando bike about a month ago from a GRX 46/30 to Stronglight 49D cranks with 46/26 rings and OG loose ball bottom bracket. The VeloOrange cranks would prob be the best option for most people as Stronglight is ISO taper, TA is the same iirc, while VeloOrange is JIS - the most common type of square taper.
@PathLessPedaledTV
Жыл бұрын
Please link to these plentiful 50.4 chainrings you speak of.
@justin10054
Жыл бұрын
@@PathLessPedaledTV Peter White Cycles sells brand new TA chainrings for 50.4 BCD cranks. I bought a nice set from them last year to use on the Sugino PX crank I got for my Ebisu. They stock chainrings as low as 26t.
@robbykills
Жыл бұрын
@@justin10054 yep came here to post that
@cosinus_square
Жыл бұрын
@@PathLessPedaledTV already replied but not sure what happened to my comment?! SpaCycles sells them in UK
l ve been running 46t single with 28t bail out and changed to a 44t this for easier pedaling into the winds last summer and biking with kids alot too :) This is mounted to my old steel miyata via deore 175 mtb cranks 12-32 out back
Great content on practical alternatives to the mainstream, as always. Worth noting that if you like SqTaper (like I do) and also like the look of the White Industries VBC double, or even their single ring options, they also do a SqTp version as well as the 30mm spindle External BB options.
For ~$100 MTB single cranks offer modern bottom bracket options and chainrings down into the 20's
Great, but what about crank length? Shorter cranks are crucial for shorter riders but some of those you mention don't go below 170 and none below 165.
@PathLessPedaledTV
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🤷🏽♂️
@lunam7249
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crank length is overated....important to triathelons
@PathLessPedaledTV
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@@lunam7249 Crank length is more important than frame stiffness IMO.
@lunam7249
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@@PathLessPedaledTV your opinion is duely noted....
My square taper BB spins better than most of my hollowtech cranks. For my leg length, I prefer 165mm cranks...I actually swapped out my Vision cranks for modestly priced track cranks. Shimano 165mm and 160mm are extremely rare and tend to be like 5-7 times more expensive.
@kirstenspencer3630
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Yes for us folks with 27 1/2 inch inseams the 165 and 160's allow us spin out comfortably and for touring extra ground clearance. Nice
Sugino! or eBay 90's MTB triple.
Nice video Russ - glad you cover realistic gearing and the stuff you use. Another good budget choice is the Dimension Cyclocross crank arm set (110/74) that can be setup as a triple or double. I run it as double with 38 - 24 Origin8 chainrings. You can find it online at Modern Bike.
I can personally pledge for Spa Cycles and ordering chain-rings from them! I have a coveted pair of Stronglight 99 triples, got a great deal on them brand new C$125 but with an awkward set of ratios for mid and outer. I bumped the mid (46t) up to the outer, and use a 40t, which I ordered, for the mid. The existing 28t inner remains. (I have a brand new pair of SR 30s if ever needed, SR being the only other known user of 86mm BCD rings) I replaced my TA Cyclotouriste Pro V set, couldn't get replacement rings anymore in North Am. And here's the upside: Spa Cycles not only carry all the replacement rings (even tooth numbers only) for TA, they do also for Stronglight, and have an exclusive supply arrangement with SL to distribute all the SL and TA rings (SL made and continue to make TA rings), and at a *very good price*! Even with postage, the price was cheaper than I was getting the rings here in Toronto when they were available by local distributors. Remember, the UK prices are advertised with VAT included. For export, that is taken off the advertised price. I called Spa before ordering, incredibly helpful and informed folks. They mail by airpost, it took less than two weeks to arrive.
@stephensaines7100
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If and when the mid ring wears to the point of replacing, I'd order a 38t instead of 40t just to more evenly spread the ratios.
thanks russ, I got VO crankset and couldn't be happier. It's funny how many myths there are about square taper vs modern outboard bbs. The only reason outboard bbs exist is just to make manufacturing easier, theres really no performance gain, although one place it is better is hardcore mountain biking with a lot of big jumps. But since im road and gravel i'll take the tried and true. Renneherse actually made an article on this too, if you wanna make a "why square taper is awesome" vid :p
Word of warning about sun xcd cranks Is to put Loctite on the chainring bolts I have heard multiple accounts and personally experienced all the chainring bolts loosening while riding
The Sun and the René Herse look nice. I am missing a Stronglight triple, though! They look nice, and with the triple, offer plenty of range. So you can have a bailout to get you up really steep and loose stuff, a medium ring (39 up to 42) to spend most of the day in and a big ring that is actually useful downhill or with a tailwind (i.e. not smaller than 50). Z-Light triple looks particularly gorgeous and slightly retro. I am currently undeicided whether I should re-use my grandfathers Nuvo Record for my randonneur restauration (but that would necessity finding smaller rings - 56/42 seem a bit impractical once climbing or hauling stuff is involved), or whether I should go the triple route.
Shimano has been offering 46/30 with the FC-CX50 crank set for a long time over 10 years at least, it's cheap and uses the hollow tech bottom bracket.
@markxkovacic
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46/36
@The2808erik
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@@markxkovacic No, it's also available in 46/30, or it was idk if it still is. I have this crank set on my bike. The most important thing is it's 110 BCD it means you can get a lot of different chainrings for it.
VO drillum w/campagnolo 10spd record on the litespeed. IRD 46×30 on the 27×1 1/8 wheeled nuovo record vintage bike. Both work perfectly and look proper on an older bike. Superglad these companies exist
I run a XT 10 speed double crank, 26-36. It works well with my 11-42 cassette on the rear with a Microshift rear.
Hadn't heard of any of these until you got to "Spa". (I'm UK) They are the solution as far as I am concerned and can vouch for them. I've been on them for years.
The mentionned crank (so I don't have to re watch the video): Vélo-Orange Grand Cru IRD Defiant (or Vortex for external bearings) Rivendel SilverCranks Soma Clipper (heard that right?) Sunn XCD René Herse Doubles White Industries Cranks Spa Cycles TRD2/RD2 On conclusion : don't forget the Mountains Double
Shimano 600 38/26 and DuraAce 7403 42/26 with chainrings porteur Stronglight (tripleizer).
Sugino OX2, which fits a modern (Shimano 24mm) bottom bracket. I'm running a 44-30. Apparently it can go as low as 27 on the inner ring. Very happy.
My eyes have been thoroughly opened. Thanks a ton for that
US cyclists in 2022: there are some alternative options other than shimano/sram! Cyclists from poor countries: ordering parts from aliexpress since 2010, because Shimano doesn't even let you order cool stuff to these countries.
I have a 54T chainring that works just great on my Zizzo folding bike with 20" wheels. LOL The Liberte model comes with a hollow crank, 8 spd cassette.
Thanks! For Germany, I can recommend Mr Moskopp and his "radplan-Delta". I got an absolutely beautiful 2x square taper crankset ("Dolomiti II") equipped with 42-26 TA-chainrings to run my 29er touring bike on 2.25 inch tyres. I could freely choose w/e combo. Dolomiti II uses 104 and 64 as diameters. I use a 107mm Token on 68mm BSA standard. Rear is 142mm.
Just put the New Albion 46/30 on my Diverge. Great value for the extremely low price. Solid so far. I have a vintage White Industries mountain double that you have inspired me to break out for my Frankenstein gravel bike. Had been running it 1x, but having a bail out gear is a great idea! Thanks for reminding me about them.
@rollinrat4850
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You can even run a 1x set up like that with a bailout granny gear and no front derailleur/shifter. Use a 2x or 3x crank. I like old mtb triples because they're cheap or even free! When the climb gets too hard, Stop, catch your breath, enjoy your surroundings, 'shift' the chain by hand. Move on. This usually isn't a race. It's supposed to be 'party pace'. No stress, no rush!
@gabrielleavitt1838
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@@rollinrat4850 great idea!
@rollinrat4850
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@@gabrielleavitt1838 Russ talked about down shifting with his toe. Years ago, as a teen I first started riding my dads '50s Raliegh road racer. The front derailleur broke, so I pulled it off and started shifting by hand without stopping. I still do this once in awhile, but I ride offroad mostly. I'm also not nearly as flexible as I used to be!
Built a bike once for a shorter rider with an origin8 crankset. A nice looking 110mm bcd square taper crank which start from 140mm arms. Don't know how well they are available today though.
Great summary Russ. I’m about to upgrade our two bikes that we keep in France (yes 90’s mtb’s with 3x7) to something a bit more capable as not only do we go out gravel riding on the D and F roads in the Pyrenees, but we also need rear racks and panniers to do our grocery/wine shopping and it’s pretty hilly. I like 1x and my bike is going to a 40 to 11-48 setup (microShift advent x with 104 bcd shimano z- crank and a hollowtech bb) but the gearing is still too high for me getting up places like Rocacorba in Banyoles. My cheap fix would be to move the 40 ring to the outside of the 104 bcd spider and fit a 30T ring on the inside. As you mentioned you spend 95% of the time in the larger of the 2 rings anyway - and as the rings are n/w - a front derailleur is no use - I would simply stop - move the chain to the smaller front ring by hand - then pedal up the hill. Once at the top I’d stop and move it back. My wife has solved her problem with the hills by getting a used e-bike as her mtb has a 7 speed freewheel and cannot be upgraded. I’m hoping to sell that one for a few euros when we are back in France next May.
@michaelhayward7572
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Difficult to find a 30T with a 104 BCD...
I love square taper - adjustable chain line to suit your Frankenstein build, comes with whatever chainring combinations you desire with a touring triple 110/74 BCD crank arm, and if you want it light you can go for Ti BB. Think it's not as stiff as a "modern" external BB crankset? How often do the great majority of cyclists sprint out of the saddle?
Another vote for 110/74 cranksets. Stronglight Impact triple for example. Use a longer spindle bb to use as a double (using only small/middle rings). For chainrings, look at the company called Specialities T.A. Thankfully by being in France, I find an endless supply of Specialities T.A. rings on the used market for cheap.
@ehounshell
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what's the best French online marketplace?
@lunam7249
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yep 110/74 mm BDC lots of choices!
I don't like using cogs smaller than 13t, because below 14 the efficiency losses start to mount up nonlinearly due to the lessened tooth engagement.
I tell peeps unless you are racing or riding a travel/folding bike, square taper is the shizz.
50 tooth is fine. Why? Because at regular people speeds the chainline is straight and you're on the center of the cassette. So the wear is lower. 53 tooth is too big for most people, but 50? Nah. For gravel 46/30 chainring with an 11-34 cassette is fine for a lot of people. Not saying smaller chainrings don't have their place , but this generalisation is not really warranted.
"aspirational gears" is the perfect way to describe 50x11. Lol.
I want to try some of those Rene'Herse double cranks they claim are compatible with modern 11 speed and Di2. I currently use a 50-34 Shimano 9000 Dura-Ace and it seems perfect. I'm willing to drop to the 48-33 I guess. As you say, the larger rings are just a remnant of an old era. I've heard that a common problem with riders of the old days was they blew out their knees and other problems from the big gearing. I'm not a racer and don't do group riding so this crankset might make cycling even more enjoyable.
Spa Cycles, Harrogate UK. Great shop. I renovate old Dawes bikes and although their website looks old fashioned, the service is excellent. I must have spent a small fortune there over the last 20 years.
If you already own a GRX crank just get the newer 44/28 chainrings from TA Specialtes and combine it with a 11-40 cassette
@tanguy4235
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But how to fit a 11-40 on a GRX ?
@dakwhitehead
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@@tanguy4235 just buy a 11-40 slx cassette. Works great.
@tanguy4235
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@@dakwhitehead ok I may try. I've been told by my LBS that the derailleur cage would be too short for this (GRX 400).
@dakwhitehead
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@@tanguy4235 not sure if there is a 10 speed cassette. I'm using the 810
The Velo-Orange crank is a copy of the very long-established and super-high quality TA crank. TA pattern chainrings are still widely available new. 94 BCD dates back to Suntour "Microdrive", originally manufactured by Sugino (the most popular model being the Impel).
@PathLessPedaledTV
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TA rings aren't "widely available" in the US. Literally one dealer with no online shop, who you have to order thru the phone or email.
I just put a later set of (used) later (NJS - 9/16-14) Stronglight arms on my singlespeed. Square taper is life.
Thanks for the great video, always like alternative gear ratios. I am running GRX with a Wickwerks 41 tooth big ring. The Wickwerks 41 tooth big ring bolts right up to the shimano grx crank. I end up with a 30x41.
Square taper is great. Can't say I miss cotter pins though.
@NotALizardPerson81
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You don't miss custom fitting/filing every pin to the crank/bottom bracket interface? What! 😂 Seriously though, some of those old pantographed and chrome plated thin cranks are really cool.
Most cranksets inspired by Stronglight from France. I had one, really great. Not anymore, I ride a Santos Travel Light with Rohloff.
Got the IRD Vortex for my bike for randoneuring. I am loving the step down to 46/30 for more spinning up those climbs.
I down-geared an old 90s road bike with the New Albion SC 42-26t cranks - works pretty well, though sometimes the chain likes to fall between the rings.
Big up to da Square Taper Massive. Toot Toot. ♥️ Blessings from a Brit in Berlin 💎
my wheels are 26 and 40t BT 16t works fine for me . . . i already converted it to single speed hehehe . . . my crank size is 170mm . . . i am planning to buy a 175 next time