Years ago I had a steel 383 crank with a seriously damaged rod journal, and I did some trading with my crankshaft grinder towards transmission work on his GF's Camry, and he made me a 3.50" offset ground stroker crank. Standard BB Chevy rods and .010"-under B-mains, and we lathed the counterweights down a little (to reduce mass). Used 7.100 rods with a shelf 499B stroker piston with a 1.12" compression height. ULTRA low bobweight with an over 2:1 rod/stroke ratio in a 400 block (4.375" bore). Had a custom REED solid roller cam ground to use with this combination and a shot of nitrous oxide. Indy Cylinder Heads used to offer a crate motor with the same crankshaft setup but they used shorter Chevy-spec rods with a taller, custom piston they had made by JE Pistons.

Twenty years ago Indy advertised "the best engine on the market." It was a 400 based assembled stroker, or available kit, with an "Indy" steel crank of 3.53 stroke and 6.385 rods. With a 4.380 bore, it was very similar to your build concept. I imagine the crank was also offset ground to 2.20 rod journal. Wonder if anyone bought that setup back in 2003?

Some more comments Have you drilled/ reamed the oil galleys? I've found broken drills and short drilled holes as Mopar resharpens their drills and sometimes get too short. The main with the broken drill in the hole looked great- from an Imperial oiling only from the groves in the drill- not for a high rpm build also 1/2 inch oil pickup or better in the pan with a stroker Scat is good With a high spring cam rotate the cam oil feed to 2-3 oclock grooving the block Icon pistons are great I consulted with John Erb Chief engineer onthe quench dome pistons a must for a open chamber hear or cut the dome to fit unfortunately they did make 383 so I used custom pistons when I did 426 B motors, today I'd use stroker for a 383 so far so good thin gasket a must to get quench which is a must. You can get same top end hp as bigger motor at higher rpm long rod wears better and easier to cam MOPAR cams wear well good for a baseline lookingfwdto next video cheers

Following closely. Have a couple 230 blocks and a bunch of 383 cranks.

You can get the BBC rods in 2.10 journal like a small block, offset more and bearing runs cooler. In Buick strokers we do 2" rod joirnal on stock cranks and make 700+hp. (It's the block that fails, nothing else😂)

i brought a high performance factory short block - balanced forged - nitrited - chamfered oil holes x drilled - with forged rods - flat top coated pistons. put the big sump baffled kit oil pump pick up ! makes me feel safe .- brian crower head gear .

I'm a chevy guy myself but I love all muscle cars I only owned 2 mopars in my lifei have a 427 big block that's bored 0.60 over that makes it a 438.8 it's got around 10.7 to 1 compression it's got a Howard's hydraulic roller that is 235x241 @ 50 with 618 lift ground on a 108 lsa it's got AFR 265 roval port heads that's right roval....lol it's got a Victor Jr intake with a atm 950 it dynoed at 661hp and 605 torque. For a mild combo it makes pretty good power I know guys with 468s and 496s that make less power I built my engine to show people that you don't need a bunch of compression or some big crazy cam shaft to make good power it's more of what works with what I've built motors when I was younger that had way to much cam and the engine was a dog below 4500 rpm. Also not having enough flow in the heads to support the cam or compression simple things like the wrong intake will kill the proformance of the engine or to big of a carburetor it all about picking the right parts. You need to do research when building a engine and not just buy parts cause they look cool I like this engine your building and I just watched a video yesterday nicks garage I don't miss any of his videos his friend mavrick was saying a 400 block is the strongest Mopar block there is he has a 451 that rips I like your channel so I subscribed thanks for the video Rick 427

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Rick! I’ve definitely thrown parts at an engine in hopes of big power in my younger years. I thought a stock 350 sbc needed a big cam and a Holley 750 DP to move my old 78 Camaro along. It was an absolute pig and barely achieved 10 mpg. It’s all about the right combo!

OH, and that camshaft is NOT 238*@.050" duration, the MoPar Performance literature at the time of that grind's release said 230*@.050", as the previous "Street Hemi" grind was 228*@.050" and 108*LSA. The "284/.484" cam" might be 238* like the old Racer Brown SS-H-25 that it was copied from. The Comp "Magnum" and "Mega" Isky cams were threatening their sales, and they wanted a smoother idle and the same top end power, so they cut the advertised duration from 284* to 280* and spread the lobe centers to 110*LSA. Better bottom end and driveability with the same top end was the goal. We ran 8.20s in a full weight '67 Coronet with the new grind (the one that you have), using a stock '71 Imperial 440 with an RPM intake and cheap 1-3/4" headers, in the 1/8mi, shifting at 5600rpm (ran the same times shifting at 5400 and 5800, so really broad powerband). I love the sound of the old original .471/.474" split pattern Street Hemi, and it was the first cam I ever used in a engine I rebuilt myself. I still have the engine with the cam in place!!

Thank you I should have know that I’ve done magnifluxed but no sonic maybe because most of my motors are 60s or 70 that I’ve owned and standard bore

@sorta_stock

2 ай бұрын

Most of the time it’s not necessary. I would say it’s more important for blocks with known core-shift issues or high HP builds.

280 Mopar degrees are more duration that Comp@.006 or Crane@.004 degree. That cam in a 440 costs 60ft time with stock gears and converter but more mph really works out on the road when you hit passing gear Stock Road Runner cam is 268 mopar degrees which is much more duration that a 268 comp Mopar is not measured at .008 but close for comparison. I'd use MAGNUM lifters and oil through the pushrods pushrods for less wear on the rocker (stock or adjustable) I'd also convert to smaller valve stems when you do the guides and go to one size larger valve as you can get a nice radius on the exhaust and better angles on the intake. Use modern conical tapered springs with the much lighter retainers Should rev well I do not know what heads you are using but stock open chamber heads suck on the street/ towing'/ truck only work if you keep the revs above the torque peak (like superstock) Try and score some aftermarket closed chamber heads Edelbrock and clones do not have the best chambers- start looking TQ carb works best on the street If that cam does not work out call Mike Jones

I like the 426 end result! If I had my 440 to do all over again, I'd have done the crank the same way - would've ended up with a 464 instead of a 470, though. And I'd have used a custom roller cam profile that I can't remember now, but I think it was a 256⁰@.050" on a 112⁰ LSA. But alas, I was young and stupid. 😩

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

I thought long and hard about going with a roller cam. In the end, budget and nostalgia steered me towards an old fashion bumpstick. Maybe I’ll change it in the future 🤷🏻‍♂️. Best part about these projects is that they are rarely ever “finished” lol

@ericstites9470

Жыл бұрын

True that!

Ssuper cool best home builds are a real mastered art .so you lighten the reciprocating mass an increased ci.?by lift the piston higher while maintaining a the stroke in a smooth fasion and now you are try to get a longer valve opening ..what kind of cam over lap will keep your valvetrain from floating at high rev....your having alot of fun aren't you..i subscribe so i can see what the final fantasy procures..i will guess that your gonna get about 475hp to a cool 525hp depending on your intake an head work..😊 youve gone mild wild..+++awesome 👍👍👍👍👍

Any 400 based stroker build is a "win win" imo. The ultimate B mill, with all of the pluses of a RB in a smaller somewhat lighter package.

I like it 👌

LSA should be either 107 or 108 according to David Vizard.

They called them wedge motor for a reason. Squinch is everything. Dennis Mauer used to offset grind to ensure deck height. Were is yours at.

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Deck height is at the factory 9.98. These pistons will end up 0.022 in the hole. With a 74cc head, I’ll be looking at around 10.5-1 CR.

Very cool build. I have two (2) 400 c.i. B enginesin the back of the shop that i picked up for $150 each and now looking for a project to put one in. Any chance you could post a written list of vendors and parts specs?

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Once I complete the build, I’ll post the full spec sheet. Still piecing it out for the top end. Good score on those two 400 blocks 👍🏻

that was my nickname in junior high

Same size rod as me

Very nice. New to the channel and a new subscriber. It's always nice to see more Mopar guys on KZread.

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Thanks man! Really excited to see how this big block performs. Still not sure what it’s going into.

Did you check your lifter before spending any money, have you removed casting flash, Scat good choice 6.7? 1.485 3.545 stroke LAST B BLOCKS I built progressed from RB cranks with LY rods, to stroker cranks, 7.1 rods I never did one like that- interesting. Mopar performance cams were designed to wear well lobes are better than generic chevy lobes following did not post measure

Definitely a solid plan working the bottom end over. Love the stroker 400 base and if the piggybank wasn't already in danger, might have looked to build one of the 400's hiding in the corner of the shop! Looking forward to seeing how your build plays out.

My expert advice is building a 400 Chevy

Well, since you splurged on the bottom, do all indy on the top 😊

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Lol if only. You’re pitching a 10k build, my friend.

Very interesting love to see new ideas cant wait to see finished product

Not sure who in San Diego would or can do it, but while the Block is in the shop, a good idea is to include the Rotating Assembly so it can be Square Decked. A warped Deck of even .004 inch is not good. Also, if you grind .010 off the crank throws and/or mains, you should have it Renitrited. Debur the entire Block, inside and out from all casting slag. The deburing can be done at home. Not sure if Big Blocks suffer low oil pressure issues as Small Blocks do, but research whether opening up your oil galleys at the Mains need attention. A chamfer would be minimal. If cost is a priority, don't sacrifice quality machine work from a reputable shop. Do it right the first time. Good luck and hope to be see your Mopar on the road soon.

This is going to be a sweet motor, hope you followed just Mopar Joe his 400 budget build motor can crank out over 500 horse and over 500 foot pounds of torque he's running aluminum heads and intake his 400 weighs about the same as his 340 stock motor that came from his Cuda drag car.

Also 10.5:1 CR is optimal on pump gas.

Chicago Bluesmobile is a 400 car.

Interesting ideas and choices. I've built a couple 470s and a 468 in a 440 block because I found some really cheap Eagle rods and had a chewed up forged 440 crank to regrind anyway. They have all made good power.

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

3 years ago I was planning for a 470. I know of a few people who have had A LOT of success with that combo. Hoping to see similar results with a small block feel.

@bw3506

Жыл бұрын

@@sorta_stock I think you're right on the SB feel. Even the street 470 I'm running revs very freely compared to the 440s I've used and this has more cubes and stroke. I feel mostly due to lighter pistons and smaller bearings. Will be interesting to see how your idea works out. 👍

First off - Love your channel! Why? Because I'm a Mopar Freak, of course! I hope you're not too busy to answer this question... I own a '72 RR/440/4-spd. I've owned the car since 1986. It wasn't stock when I purchased it... headers, HR Edelbrock, 850 Edelbrock carb, which it seems the engine easily handles. My question... if I wanted to 'start' with 440 Source parts on the TE... heads and cam, that I could build upon at a later date, what would you recommend? I'd like a more aggressive exhaust rumble initially and would like to do a 512 Stroker down the road. I won't be racing, just occasional drives in the spring/summer/fall. What say you? Thanks!

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Thanks man! If that 440 is still rocking the low compression pistons than the head swap would wake that 440 up significantly. If a 512 is in the future, I would look at Trickflow 240 heads and the .509 cam for the rumble you’re after. Many ways to get there though

@davidt9841

Жыл бұрын

@@sorta_stock Thanks so much for the timely reply! I appreciate it! I will look into your suggestions and let you know how things work out. Mopars4Ever!!!

interesting build - the cam seems to be bit mild for this combination, especially if you get the compression up to 10:1 or so. Interested to see the numbers it makes.

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Hoping to score some 1.6 rockers to help with the cam 🤞🏻

Nice build plan. The engine should be very strong and durable. Have some nice parts with the Icon pistons and Scat rods. Thank you sharing. Take care, Ed.

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Ed. Excited to see how this engine will behave.

@ghostrt1608

Жыл бұрын

​@sortastockmopars ...didn't the 383/400 have a 1.88:1 rod/stroke ratio stock from the factory

Fun build! Your piggy is squealing! 😂 Excited to see it come together

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Figured I’d abuse the piggy in the beginning then befriend it towards the end so we’re on good terms come dyno day 🤣

Just picked up a 1972 400 complete engine not seized for $500. Getting a 440 crank ground to the 470” goal. Likely going with trick flow heads if the budget can bear it. Eagerly awaiting your assembly video!

@bw3506

Жыл бұрын

I've built a couple of engines with offset ground 440 cranks. A low deck 470 and a 468 in a 440 block. The last 470 I built I bought a forged 470 crank. I'm running it in my 68 Dart. Using cleaned up Eddy heads a RPM manifold and a Hughes hydraulic cam in it. It's not a race motor like the other one but it sure makes that Dart fun on the street.

H beam rods would be better choice for a stroker engine in my opinion, but you know what they say about opinions, like to hear how it sounds when done can't go wrong with Mopar

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Typically H-beams are desired with strokers due to the shorter rod ratio and additional stress on the rods. This combo is still utilizing a long rod ratio.

Hopefully your compression will be around 10.5-11.5 if you're chasing 500whp. And also that rod/stroke ratio!?!? That's literally F20C Honda engine rod/stroke ratio! lol you can rev that engine if you have the head flow and cam profile to 9000rpm. 😂😂 that would definitely be a nasty engine

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

If I go iron head, I’ll be targeting 10/10.5-1. If I can somehow get some aluminums, I’ll be aiming for 11-1. I would need some good rockers to squeeze 9k RPM lol. I’m hoping to hit 7k

@eliasmelendez1271

Жыл бұрын

@@sorta_stock technically you'll need a bigger cam and more duration if you want more rpm range. Thats why Honda's rev so high on low lift because they have alot of duration.

That’s how you do it I don’t trust the cams at all especially a certain cam not naming no company’s but find a good bunch of parts on the guys that plan on building something it’s on the shelf in buddy’s garage and it will be ther for years but he says I’ll never build that hey let’s sell it on eBay maker place whatever that’s the route I have to take this summer and winter on a 440 six build got a 68 motor and a complete six pack setup standard bore 440 hopefully no cracks or nothing bad inside but I’ve got all that for 3000 for complete aircleaner to all the lines linkage everthing and the 440 not apart yet been setting in buddy’s shop out of elements for around a thousand I made a trade a old 95 diesel fully that was junk for a dirt bike dirt bike for motor so I value truck at a grand prob worth more but needed gone so I traded for dirt bike that needs a coil

@sorta_stock

2 ай бұрын

Tons of good quality parts are sitting on people’s shelves just waiting for a build that never seems to come. There are so many good deals out there right now (2024). A 440 build, done right, can be completed on a very low budget.

I'm An Automotive Machinist .In the Gunshine state.23 yrs exp.Deep core plug fan.

New Subscriber. Great video! I ran the same Purple Shaft cam back in the day (early 80's) in a 383. Sure it's an old cam. It pulled pretty strong for a "mild cam" and well past the 6,000 rpm. It's pretty fitting for your 426 build as It used to be called the "Street Hemi Grind" in the Direct Connection catalog. Easy enough to change down the road if you're not happy with it. It sounded pretty good too. Can't wait to see you put it all together!

Big NO on the cam! How do you know if the lifters was kept in order?

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

They’re each labeled

So, you were talking about the rod ratio. Here's my take on rod ration and stroke in a B block. The problem with these engines is that with a shorter stroke crankshaft, you can't get a rod in there that gives you a good rod/stroke ratio without having a piston that's super tall and heavy. In order to have a lightweight piston with a compression height of 1.3" on the stock stroke, you're going to have around a 7 inch long rod which gives you way over a 2:1 ratio. I'm personally wanting to take my 400 and put in the 470 stroker crankshaft with the 3.91" stroke and a 6.768" rod from the RB block so that I can have a piston compression height of 1.254". This will require custom pistons of course, but I know a guy who's helping me plan this and has numerous connections in the automotive aftermarket.

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Instead of going the custom piston route ($$). I planned the combo off of an off the shelf 440 stroker piston. I wanted to stay at or above a 1.5 CH piston to maintain some stability. I’m currently at a 1.89 RR.

@jmflournoy386

Жыл бұрын

@@sorta_stock 4you are good and good reasons I built some 452 SBC with 4.25 stroke and 6" rod and less than 1" CH you do NOT want to do this Did win top Fuel at the 62 AHRA nationals at Cado mills TX greasy track and the blown fuel guys could not hook up. WE took the injector stacks off and tightened down the valve adjustment to kill the low end Was fun back then You CAN make that 2:1 rod ratio work takes a different cam and MUCH different than the 452 chevy talk about opposites I can say that a 3.75 stroke and stock RB LY rods with DC rod bolts is bulletproof in a B block

Nice! I went with a 440 source stroker kit for my 400 but I bought it back in 2006. It’s a 500” stroker kit with flat top pistons and I’m going with closed chamber iron 915 heads

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Out of the offered kits, I like the specs of the 499/500 best. Good score on the 915 heads 👍🏻. I’ve got my eye out for a pair.

@lisam4503

Жыл бұрын

@@sorta_stock Believe it or not the 516 castings work pretty good! A lot easier to find and are closed chambered also. I built a 1966 440 that they came stock on. It was in a 1966 New Yorker. Left a lot of people scratching their heads how it could do so good drag racing. Eventually you could see the torque twisting taking a toll on the car. I didn't put subframe connectors on it.

Great build. cant wait!!!

Im confused. Big money reciprocating assembly w/ ancient cheap cam, stock valvetrain, and focus on rod ratio for power? The goal is 100k miles making 425 hp?

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Not big money. It’s actually half the cost of a stroker kit. The cam is a tried and true grind and the focus on rod ratio is to see the characteristics of the engine when finished. All while aiming for >500hp and a good amount of reliability that didn’t destroy the wallet.

@turkeyboyjh1

Жыл бұрын

Some people like throwing money away I guess, stock bottom end and spend the money on head work and valve train you know the parts that make power

@realblakrawb

Жыл бұрын

@@turkeyboyjh1 rigid well balanced bottom ends make more reliable power instead of being grenades. Don't be a poor.

@turkeyboyjh1

Жыл бұрын

@@realblakrawb oh come on you and me both know that bottom end is 10x more than what he needs to make the power that cam is going to make could have at least used a more modern grid and some head work than spend 3000 on a rotating assembly just to use a little better than stock top end

@HerrPoopschitz

Жыл бұрын

@@sorta_stock What method do you intend to employ to conclude any potential gains from rod ratio after all is said and done? Scientifically speaking?

When the 383 in my Uncle’s Polara was acting up ( bad cam, it was the 383 Super Commando out of my fathers Barracuda but the original engine in the polara was a Stage III 426 wedge ) we built the same engine with the same 383’s crankshaft and aftermarket big block Chevy rods and Arias pistons. ( which was out of our windowed drag boat engine) After we were done we were able to find someone that too the time and built a “conversion” set of intakes to fit a low deck . We had stickers made up saying “ Stage IV “ . LoL. It ran well with a 4 speed .

Would like to stuff one of these with a good set of heads into a little post Valiant with a 4-speed w/ 3:91 /8.75 rear

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Trying to do 4th gear burnouts huh? Lol. That would be a monster

Love the idea, I'm in Indiana so E-85 is EVERYWHERE (lucky me) but not sure in your area but if so run it with aluminum heads and at least 12.5:1 cr it will sound great, throttle response, and of course more power. Not sure what heads your planning on but .474 lift is pretty tame but you could use higher ratio rockers to up the effective lift and gain a smidge of duration. 106 LSA would sound even better. Just some thoughts.

The 1.86 plus rod ratio is far superior for torque production. Good call on the old MP grind, we know they are outdated, but they work well and live!. I was able to score a .509 and a .590 that were new in the box from the 90's

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Heard a lot of good things about the .509 cam. It seems like a lot of popular YT channels have been in favor of rod ratios in the 1.5-1.6 range recently. Excited to test the opposite

@vincentenk4449

Жыл бұрын

Want to sell the .590? 😁

@vincentenk4449

Жыл бұрын

@@sorta_stock I know my .508 292 flat out worked in my 340! It was a 12 second "recepie" motor from the old Direct Connection days.

@gregtough9055

Жыл бұрын

@@vincentenk4449 No sir

Seven liter combos are the bomb.

Cool build

Worked stealth heads prolly best money per hp. You don’t need huge heads for that combo. Maybe if you found a cheap set of 906/452 casting heads that don’t need work, they would be an option too. Make sure you back cut the intake valves, exhaust don’t need that. Radius the bottoms of the exhaust valves. Work the bowl to about 91% of the throat if my memory is good. ( check that %)

@christopher5585

Жыл бұрын

91% max for a Street Motor.

Very cool its going to be a great revving good torque engine for the street. That would have been a great for my 72 Demon 4spd

Solid Build.

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Thanks man. Hopefully my theories are correct and this 426 will be as rev happy as the old 340

Doesnt a 440 crank in a 383 equal 426 cubes?

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

A standard bore 383 with a 440 crank does create 426 cubes but, it’s a completely different build than a 400 based 426.

Definitely different than the other contestants.

Should have called Gregg at JE and had those slugs made for less with better parts. Rod ratio has more effect on the torque and where it has it. OH I know all the bs and people saying the rod ratio doesn't matter but they haven't got the trophies and long living motors that have proven it does matter. A shorter rod will spin to higher rpm while the longer makes more down low and doesn't like to have the twist put to it. Regardless each must be designed in balance with the other pieces. Your bigger cubes means natural grunt so a short rod will fill in where the lack of high rpm is in a big ol rat. I do like how you went off the res with the 400 block. There is much better desktop dyno, comp, JE, and so many more than that stuff at summit. When it doesn't even ask about ring height I'm going elsewhere. Also, the ring package. You didn't even touch on it or maybe I just tuned it out because of reliance on Summit. I hope you find some B1 heads. Loved working with Roger on the development and racing them with Sheldon in KingKong. The cam info, I realize it's a popular and easy pick but you'd do yourself a favor to have a look at the cam timing card. Also, what trans is this thing going to be bolted to makes a huge difference in cam choice. I've been known to take advantage of "race junk" and just suggested you look for some heads from that source. Cheap horsepower I always say. Racing cost wompom. Tim Wilkerson is the king of used race parts IMO and if he can win in TF why the heck not I say. Induction and fuel, what ya gonna use for the kaboom ?

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Truth is I bought these pistons a couple of years ago when they were only $650 but, I’ve got to use today’s prices for the competition. The 400 has been awaiting assembly since 2020. I’m using this budget challenge to help motivate through the finish line. It’ll be going in front of a 727 and be fed by an unknown sized carb. Still have a few items to figure out

@irench

Жыл бұрын

@@sorta_stock The reason for asking is that the converter, gears, and cam all must be balanced for a solid performer per the application. I'm sure you know a race car isn't a street car and not every race car works in all racing. I love the idea of the stroked 400. Strokers are easier to target and application, truck, red light racer, marine. The cam events would be an important piece of information to give to the converter builder and any that just says 3500 stall, RUN fast if you're truly after the performance end. TCI and Yank are the two I think of though TCI does make the saturdaynight converter just like B&M Good luck with the motivation, I feel ya there. My nova has been awaiting the execution of my big plans for a couple years now.

Is sonic testing same as magnefluxing

@sorta_stock

2 ай бұрын

Magnafluxing will identify cracks hidden within the block. A sonic test will measure the material thickness itself.

Here's the Drill Your car's Your Rules.I have a 450 Build in the works.

I enjoy your content, thank you for posting. What made you choose the ancient single-pattern .474 grind when more modern cams can be had that offer greater performance and better driveability/response? For example, a 224º/228º cam with 552"/565" lift will eat the old cam alive and with 10 degrees less duration will be way more responsive.

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

I picked up the purple cam for a couple of reasons. 1. A good deal was presented that helped with budget. 2. Because I elected to spend as much as I did on the bottom end, I’ll most-likely be using factory valve springs and rockers. The .474 cam is compatible with the factory stuff while still shifting it’s operating range higher to take advantage of the rod ratio

@scottwheaton9689

Жыл бұрын

Just a thought on stock valve springs with a perf build. Yes they may handle controlling valve train at top end rpm gir a while but they will weaken over time & that’s when you could float a valve at higher top end rpm & lunch the motor. I’d rec going going with valve springs that have a bit more seat pressure & rpm capability to reduce chance of valve gloat at higher top end rpm when stock springs get a bit worn as street miles pile up. Don’t overdo it but maybe go with 15-20% heavier stronger then stock springs but no so much you get into trouble with the flat tappet cam setup. Also ,don’t forget to use proper zddp fortified oil for breakin @ post breaking when running a flat tappet cam. Lastly,as already mentioned your really selling yourself short with more modern flat tappet cams mfg’d today from for example lunati that could put out 25-30+ more hp with same drivability costing $100-150 more then the old school 30-40yr old design purple cam you have which imho is not the best choice by far for this type 426cid stroker street perf build. Good luck with the build & happy motoring!

There is no replacement for displacement, except boost

Also what rocker ratio you're going to use? If you want more rpm with that cam you need more lift and duration to get the rpm range you want.

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

I’ll most-like use the standard 1.5 rockers and see how it responds before jumping up to 1.6s or even 1.7s

@eliasmelendez1271

Жыл бұрын

@@sorta_stock the 6000rpm on your cam is telling you thats the limit on stock 1.5 rocker ratio. I would do is a 1.65 rocker ratio so your lift would be around 512 and your duration around 29x something. Take risk but make sure you have the valve springs to control that extra lift given by the longer rocker ratio. Any advice don't hesitate to ask, I'm a machinist by trade here in Rockville Montgomery County Maryland.

is the crank offset ground to achieve the extra stroke with chevrolet pistons

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

Yes, they’re ground to a popular Chevy size to utilize off-the-shelf rods. The pistons are 440 stroker pistons.

I have 5 400's 3 383's and a 440. Just waiting

@johnwilburn

Жыл бұрын

Waiting for what?

Why is all the videos, posters, decals, photos in fact everywhere are alphabets are reversed ??? Strange !!!! Oh, why not make a 4.400 bore by 3.500 stroke which makes 427 C IN or 3.75 stroke for 456 / 7.5 litre engine ??? Just a thought.

@sorta_stock

Жыл бұрын

It’s a mirroring effect from the front camera. This block would need a sleeve to bore out to 4.400. Plus, that would be punching the rest of the cylinders to the max. The 3.75 stroke is a very common mod for these 400s. I’m after a heavy oversquare with a high rod ratio.

e.g. 11:40 Check your phone/camera settings. Yes, when using Selfie mode the image you see (locally, on your phone's screen) needs to be mirror-image, so that what you see is like a mirror and you know how to hold it and turn it. But that doesn't mean that you need to *record* mirror-image reversed backwards video; that's unnecessary. Somewhere in the camera settings will be a selection to *record* the Selfie mode video either normal or mirror-image reversed (which is utterly silly). There's no reason to have all the background signs being recorded in mirror image.

@sorta_stock

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Yeah I try to adjust that when I’m showing the audience text of some sort. I end up missing it in scenes like that where I’m just talking. Thanks for the pointer 👍🏻

I don't have to tell you to put the rest of the budget in the FLOW of the heads , right , good luck from what it look you got this maybe 10.5 on 93