As a Yank Climber whose backyard was Yosemite Valley & climbed through the incomparable 80’s .... the British scene was by far the most interesting. Their combination of boldness & technical difficulties & willingness to push standards were second to none. In particular I loved the wildness & commitment of the Johnies; Johnny Woodward, John Redhead, Johnny Dawes & John“One Tonne” Dunne ..... and we’ll never see their like again

@briseboy

4 жыл бұрын

I clicked on it because i thought the title meant the Rupal Face. But English climbers were the first fun climbers, and a huge proportion of the greats, until people caught onto their own Alps. We'll never see anybody's like again - treasure ALL your moments. We won't see yours- but just knowing you are, will be, were,, is pretty much more cosmic than any nirvana or satori. Salud, amigo.

@robertnewell4054

4 жыл бұрын

@george mira ...... 😂Indeed, The Cosmic Eternal. շնորհակալություն ընկեր shnorhakalut’yun ynker Thank you Friend

@robertnewell4054

3 жыл бұрын

@@CreamRepublicPufffin ..... Bugger off Mate, there’s no wanky froggy 🐸 mustard ‘ere. If borrowing Mustard is your aim, then it’s COLEMANS HOT MUSTARD....Now that’s spot on

@johnnydawesofficial

Жыл бұрын

Johnny Allen too of course

11:06 - when Joe Brown compliments your bravery as such, you have been paid a MASSIVE compliment.

Thank you so much for putting this together I was at Manchester the same time as Johnny - he was (supposed to be) studying Geology (poss as a joint degree) and I was doing Geography so we shared a lot of lectures and practicals. Various memories include him wandering around the uni carrying his boots, traversing across any available vertical surface, rolling his van (I think a Bedford Rascal which was quickly replaced) and being the first to walk out of most exams. He certainly had plenty of self confidence which brought with it the potential to appear arrogant, as can so many uniquely talented people. Sadly those of us who were around him on a daily basis did not fully appreciate the talent he had and, at times, he could be a bit of an annoying distraction to some! Even though I called myself a climber in those days I had no idea of the level he was at - he just appeared to be very enthusiastic and bouncy. Although sharing a similar taste in mullet hairstyles (which were very much of the time) and climbing I was far from the rock athlete that Johnny was - at best I could lead HVS/E1 at Stanage, but I managed to get in two seasons in the Alps in 1984 and 1985 which seemed to at least register. So much so that I was once asked if I wanted to accompany him on a Sunday trip to Wales (I think in February 1986). I misunderstood what the day held and turned up with my then ice boots (early Koflachs) and was somewhat surprised when he brought out his Fires. Turned out that I had been asked along to act as ballast whilst he practiced further on the route - and I was the heaviest muppet he could persuade to accompany him on a freezing Sunday! That was a long time ago and many memories too - hope life has treated you well Johnny, and that you have stood the test of time better than I perhaps have (I'd currently struggle to get my harness on let alone do any climbing)!

@johnnydawes7099

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for taking us back. I was likely an arse. Wanted to do certain things. Most don't quite. Determined to do it.

Johnny Dawes was the name I heard most mentioned when I was lucky enough to be involved in the North Wales climbing scene in the late 90's/early 2000's. Legend.

This is even more of an important document now Joe Brown is sadly no longer with us. What a film.

@24934637

Жыл бұрын

I'm really out of touch with the climbing scene now. wasn't aware that Joe Brown had passed. Massive respect to one of the top climbers in the world!

Great video and great climb (NOT that I've done it, or anywhere near that grade!). There was a time where climbing at that level was one of my life goals, but I was never good enough. E5 was my limit. I honestly never had the commitment to risk almost certain death for climbing. I met Johnny (Dawes) a couple of times at the Foundry wall in Sheffield, probably in about 1993. He was just there having a laugh with his mates, on the bouldering wall, doing some absolutely crazy moves. Massively inspiring to watch.

@johnnydawesofficial

10 ай бұрын

That was a great period for me.

A painting where the rock has gone when you know how it would pss someone off? No wonder he was annoyed.

Great climb Thanks for sharing All the best to Johnny

@johnnydawesofficial

Жыл бұрын

Thank you Paul

25:21. “How do you describe the presence of essential feeling within yourself?” I find this to be a true, profound question…

Brilliant. Good history I never knew about aswell.

What I enjoyed most about this video is his perspective on the climb and why he did it

Absolute Classic Cheers Johnny

Cool music. Thanks for posting this guys xxx

"Using sports climbing tactics"... after placing a bolt! 😂

@johns3106

2 жыл бұрын

There is a lot more to “sport climbing tactics” than just placing a bolt!

Makes what ‘Joseph Smith‘ has done look even more impressive!

Bloody brilliant. Thanks for posting

Excellent film, brilliant.

There is something truly inspiring about the climbs and climbers of this era that the latest, “greatest” modern sport climb will never come close to touching.

@gallanonim6535

Жыл бұрын

Agree, it's called sentimentalism. Why greatest in parentheses? Are you implying that climbers of the 80's could climb 9c, 8B+ Flash, 9a Onsight etc.? They were the best at their time but as in every other sport, people improve the craft and develop the sport. In basketball people always say that there never be someone like Michael Jordan again. But in the early 80's same thing was being said about Dr. J. In terms of bold trad Macleod surpassed Dawes (with all due respect) by a lot.

@johns3106

Жыл бұрын

@@gallanonim6535 “Greatest” is in quotes (not parentheses) because each generation seems to think what they have done is new, groundbreaking and will not be surpassed…which, if you’ve been around long enough, you’ll realize is a load of crap. Many times young folks forget that they are standing on the shoulders of their predecessors…there would be no 5.14 climbs without Royal Robbins having climbed 5.9 in the ‘50’s.

This film was made 14 years ago. I hope the “artist” Redhead has got over himself by now. Oozing with bitterness and envy, oh how he wished it had all been about him.

@TrackpadProductions

2 жыл бұрын

Breaking a flake isn't willfully damaging the rock. Painting all over it _definitely_ is.

Dave climbed it, right?

Legend.

I like how John Redhead was criticising Johnny for using sport climbing techniques when Redhead was drilling bolts and at least defending chipping.

Mr Redhead is like a naughty elf 🤣

Hardly seen any protection so I can only presume any fall would be a long one?

Great climber no doubt, but talks in riddles

@richardbradley8535

4 жыл бұрын

I think he climbed in riddles as well. Have you tried any of his slab routes :-)

This is not new but, its brilliant!

Good

great vid. great english history

@UFCSTARS

3 жыл бұрын

@Pete is never wrong Easy fellas...it's British history. :)

You’ll never forget what a raspberry tastes like

LIKE 78, ,dear friend ♡ have a good day 🤗

@johnnydawesofficial

Жыл бұрын

78? Intriguing..

❤😁🇬🇧 my arse is making buttons.

Nails ,🤟

Interesting nobody remember you if you climb e9 in a climbing wall

Borderline alcoholic on half a bottle of whiskey a week. I guess times have changed.

It's Diffwys Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. The rock on the right is Ystlys Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.Why the need to put foreign names on this Rock and many others in Eryri The gully is called Hafn Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Not blaming Johnny of course but this whole renaming of everywhere in our last stronghold of independence has an air of final colonisation

@johnnydawesofficial

Жыл бұрын

I called it Indian face. A name given by a Welsh friend. Gabwt.

@eilianwilliams7219

Жыл бұрын

@@johnnydawesofficial oh he didn t know the traditional name then

@eilianwilliams7219

Жыл бұрын

@@johnnydawesofficial I remember a Gabwt from years ago from Trawsfynydd or nearby I think.He must have been smoking something strong if he saw an Indian Face on Clogwyn Du 'r Arddu!

Johnny Dawes looks like a bit like Chris Sharma here. Not so much anymore...

@asquietas

4 жыл бұрын

... and?

@johnnydawes7099

4 жыл бұрын

It sounds like you're glad I'm ill.

@onsight2822

4 жыл бұрын

@@johnnydawes7099 best wishes dude , i didnt know you were ill ! hope your back to yourself soon Brilliant film and I watched a lot of this footage hundreds of times, ;-)

@Rhythm24inch

4 жыл бұрын

@@johnnydawes7099 Really sad to hear this, we met and spoke once in Pete's Eats 4-5 years ago, we chatted about becoming good at climbing by breaking down the task and a small persons learning gym/toy amongst other things, I enjoyed it, and went to play in Dinorwig afterwards, marveling at Rainbow slab and The Quarrymen. Positivity of the mind is powerful and the placebo effect is the way forward, be good to yourself, your a massive hero to me!

@elizabethwinsor-strumpetqueen

4 жыл бұрын

@@johnnydawes7099 - My oldest son was born the day you did this route ...I remember reading about you in a climbing magazine not long after , you seemed like a pretty driven kind of guy ,but very likeable ...33 yrs ago

Wtf is e9? Weird English metrics system....

@charliestubbs4569

3 жыл бұрын

Stands for extreme 9. The highest is 11 but 9 was at the time