as someone who had old timer carpenters in the family all the issues brought up about this saw are subjective. safety wise, it boils down to understanding the inherent safety issues of your power tool and fully understand how the tool operates and what its limits are. Today, people want simple. they don't want to read instructions, or have a deep knowledge of how the thing works. they want to plug it in and use it. Too many people think they're master carpenters because they watch shows/youtube but they shouldn't even be operating a screw driver, let alone a saw. be knowledgeable, take your time and pay attention and you'll be fine.

I think the whole issue is that everyone always says the radial arm saw has no place in a modern shop and then proceeds to compare it to the table saw. There's room for both. The table saw is 100% the clear victor when it comes to ripping just due to its capacity. The arm saw really should be compared to sliding miter saws in videos like these. The radial arm saw is not a jack of all trades, it's a crosscut master that's also able to do some other things, just as the table saw is a ripping master that's also capable of crosscutting with the right jigs/tools. The best way to use an arm saw is to keep it at 90 degrees and align it for that, put some miter slots in your table and use it with a miter gauge. What I love about the RAS in particular is the sacrificial table. You can put clamps, hold downs, stops etc wherever you want and always have a workpiece that is secured hands free. Your hands never need to be anywhere close to the blade. I feel a lot safer making crosscut with a radial arm saw than I do with a table saw or even a miter saw and my cuts are way more accurate as a result. Just like with a table saw there's jigs that let you do just about anything. I've never ripped with a RAS so I can't even really say how functional it's ripping is, because I've always had a table saw. Table saws are also incredibly dangerous. Ripping in general is dangerous, both on an arm saw and a table saw. Caution needs to be exercised with all machines. And most importantly, and I think it's something that gets seriously overlooked sometimes... it's currently the cheapest way to get a powerful saw. Due to the stigma, people are practically giving them away considerably cheaper than table saws and with the right tuning you can get a saw capable of building most things. With attachments you can also use it as a shaper/jointer. It's a great way to break into the hobby when everything is so expensive these days. I just get annoyed when I get attacked or belittled by people for mentioning I use a radial arm saw. My radial arm saw is easily the nicest piece of equipment in my shop and it makes the cleanest, most accurate cuts. I spent a lot of time getting it to that point. I bought it, restored it, built a new table and cabinet for it all for less than the price of a decent table saw rip fence. It's the piece of equipment im most comfortable with. I bought into the hype and got a 10" hitachi sliding miter saw with the space saving design and wish I wouldn't have wasted the money.

@enduringcharm

Жыл бұрын

I don't disagree that it's silly to compare a RAS to a table saw, but that comparison is often made by the hard-core RAS proponents, which is why I brought it up. And, I hope you don't feel belittled by my video--as I said, if you enjoy working with vintage machinery and the RAS works for you, then more power to you. While I still have a spot in my shop occupied by the RAS, I rarely use it anymore. I used to mount a dado blade in it for crosscut dadoes, but even that has limitations in width and I can do the same job more quickly and cleanly with a router and a jig. For actual crosscutting my 12" sliding double compound miter is far more accurate. The width it can cut is a little more than 13 inches, which is less than the RAS of around 17-18 inches. However, dimensional lumber sold in lumberyards or box stores doesn't exceed 1x12 anyway. If I'm cutting a wider strip of plywood, it can be flipped to finish a cut. Ultimately I think it depends on the type of work you are doing and whether you are working professionally (speed matters) or on an amateur level (speed is a secondary concern).

@garychiuminatto917

7 ай бұрын

I own a DeWalt 12” contractor grade radial arm saw. Purchased in 1978 or 1980. Works as good as when I first purchased it. It will rip 24” or a sheet of plywood right down the center. Yes I have to support the piece hanging off but I own two tripods with rollers on them that work excellently. When I purchased it I had the table saw guys telling me I would get rid of it. Still have it. I also have the jointer/shaper accessory and some others. I firmly agree you should know you owners inside and out. Also it never hurts to purchase publications on how to use it. A tool is only as safe as the person using it. You are 100% correct when you say the younger generation just wants to buy it, plug it in and use it. The owners manual is for the not known it alls. If someone looses a finger on a radial arm or table saw it’s because they made a costly mistake. Now days everyone wants 100% safe equipment direct from the manufacturer. If you believe that stick with a crosscut and rip hand saw. That way you shouldn’t do to much damage to yourself maybe???

Well, my dad left me his shopmaster radial arm saw when he passed. I have a very small shop space. I don't have room for another floor tool like a table saw, but I don't miss it. The radial arm saw is the most versatile tool I could have in my shop. It does almost everything. It is very accurate if I set it up properly. it is perfectly safe if used correctly, with a clear understanding of it s limitations and habits. You can do very accurate rip cuts on long stock if it's set up and used correctly. I will never get rid of it.

Always makes me laugh when people say a ras is so dangerous, tries to launch boards across the room, when a table saw is trying to do the same thing. I have a miter, table, and 2 ras, the miter saw I don't really use much, I don't think it's really good at anything, and my table saw is just that...a table to put stuff on. I don't understand how anyone says a miter saw is better, other than the ability to bring it places, with its very small table that forces you to get your hand close to the blade, that you can also bring down on your hand easily. My shop teacher always said if you're gonna be afraid of something, be afraid of the table saw. Easily the most dangerous machine, I watched it throw a board into my friends gut one time. It's the only shop tool that I hate using. I've never felt like a ras is dangerous, I feel like its much safer for everything. I've ripped some twisted nasty wood on tables and ras, ras didn't care, table was trying to kickback non stop, and it's properly aligned. No I dont use guards but who does. I respect everyones opinion on a ras, but you're all missing out. Coolest looking machine, fun to use, very handy saw to have, much better built than saws of today, many still working 70+ years old, it will always have a place in my shop, ALWAYS!

@enduringcharm

Жыл бұрын

I'm curious, then, how do you handle a full sheet of plywood? Or, is your woodworking confined to smaller workpieces?

@joshuadiiorio3917

Жыл бұрын

Circular saw or the ras fence can be moved to the back of the table for a wider cut

@jeysonbraun4250

Жыл бұрын

same, i have a sliding miter saw and two radial arm saws, plus a table saw. I pretty much havent used the miter saw in over a year but use the Radial arm saw all the time. Table saw gets mixed use for some things.

@enduringcharm

Жыл бұрын

@Jeyson Braun What type of woodworking or building do you do? I think the type of work you do probably influences your thoughts on the RAS.

@hosoiarchives4858

Жыл бұрын

What a great post. I use the RAS at every opportunity. It’s probably my favorite piece of equipment.

I recently got rid of my miter saw and replaced it with a radial arm saw. I find the radial arm saw is a better option.

Generally accurate description. However, you didn't show the entire setup for ripping. The rod on the front of the guard is not a hold down. It is an anti-kickback pawl. Some late model RAS came with a clip type spring or other hold down attached to other end of the guard (the rip feed end). I disagree with the notion that a RAS is always less suitable for ripping than a tablesaw. This is especially true if it is built into a bench that provides both infeed and outfeed support for long stock. However, it is clearly more difficult to setup for ripping and less safe because there are more things that can wrong if you don't follow proper procedures. Here are the six steps you must follow to safely rip on a RAS. Step one is to raise the blade and turn the motor for either an infeed or outfeed rip depending upon the width of the cut and lock the motor in place. Step two is to set the width of the cut andlock the carriage in place. Step three is to lower the blade so it cuts about 1/8" into the sacrificial top. Some users will cut a trough in the table so they don't have to raise the blade to pivot the motor. Step four is to tilt the guard so the feed end (rear of the guard) barely clears the thickness of the top. If the guard has a spring, it is lowered so the spring pushes gently on the wood to hold it down. Step 5 is to adjust the anti-kickback pawl so that the stock will run under the fingers but still grab it if it kicksback. NEVER RIP WITHOUT AN ANTI-KICKBACK PAWL! Step 6 is to use a pushboard when the rear of the stock approached the guard. The board should be long enough to push the stock beyond the blade. Needless to say, a RAS requires that you have a set procedure that you follow each operation because there are so many moving parts. Otherwise, you will get hurt.

Still have my Dad’s SawSmith (circa early 1960s) and it came with us when we moved to Florida from New York. I don’t use it much and, while I am still in possession of all my digits, I’ll likely part with it when we move to our new home which will have a modest shop primarily dedicated to woodturning. I will say that Dad used the heck out it back in the day. Very much enjoyed your post …

Thanks John. Question for you. Since your area is northern NJ, do you have any suggestions or recommendations for bathroom remodelers in southern NJ area near Philadelphia? Just curious.

@enduringcharm

Жыл бұрын

I get this question a lot, as well as wondering how far I'll travel. I'm afraid I don't have a name for you in your area. Your best bets are to stop and get a card when you see good work being done nearby, asking neighbors, or perhaps stopping in to a local lumberyard to see if the salespeople there have a recommendation.

I don't agree. All saws are dangerous. I work with my father as a helper and later as the operator of a RAS. I think it taught respect for the tool more than others get using a table saw. And while RAS are not as popular as table saws, I've seen many injuries from table saws.

I have the exact saw model 113.29401. Everything works fine except the arm latch knob (the big knob in front of the arm). This knob turns really hard. And the latch release lever (lever behind the knob) works but is sticky..doesn’t return quickly. Whenever I engage the release lever the arm will move right or left but whenever I try to tighten the knob to lock the arm at a certain angle…the arm won’t lock. However if I move the arm to the 45deg (right or left) stop the arm will lock. I just can’t lock the arm in a any other angle. Do you know what is wrong and how to fix this problem? 14:55

@enduringcharm

7 ай бұрын

It's difficult to guess without looking at the saw in person. It could be worn components, it could be sawdust or other debris in the mechanism, it could be both. All you can do is disassemble the saw and see what you find. That's the problem with decades old machinery--often it hasn't been well maintained, or it has just outlived it's lifespan. Once in a while you get lucky and it just needs a thorough cleaning.

@Kathyskollectables

2 ай бұрын

I have the 113.29410 ras. It has a few cosmetic differences but all in all it's a fine saw. My dad was diagnosed with dementia 3 years ago and now I have the saw. I use it for many operations. The locking lever and knob are as yours is. I need to take it apart and see what is causing it. It's the time I don't have. I'm off this upcoming week so I will find the time. It needs done.

Yes, what Rick said, very informative. Many things that one should consider if one were to think of picking one up.

I think I commented on your old video way way back lol. I had the same saw til about 5yrs ago. But in a cabinet shop it did have a place and I do miss it. It was strickly a cross cut of rough materials. While yes you can use a sliding miter, but in production it makes since to have multiple saws. For a small shop or a hobby woodworker its a tougher sell for dedicated saws. In the end that moulding cutter head is a tad spooky haha

@enduringcharm

Жыл бұрын

Yeah, I only mentioned in passing the moulding cutter/router type head. That's just flat out crazy! I'll stick with my router tables, thanks.

@roberthibberd5362

9 ай бұрын

I have a couple of hand held routers, and a proper shaper. I've only used a craftsman shaper head on my table saw, have never put it on my RAS. Im a bit intimidated by the molding head, also; instead of making several passes, I have bevel sawed away a decent chunk of the waste. But that entails switching blades, adjusting fence, changing throat plates... Easier to just use the shaper, though cutters tend to be more expensive.

Wow! Thats the eaxct same one my dad still has. One of the first real tools he bought doing work for someone and used his profit to buy it. I remember growing up, him always using it and the distinct sound it makes when starting up. I had it at my house for several years in the mid 2000s to do some work before i could afford the newer stuff. Scared the hell out of me. From time to time it would catch and climb (launch) at me. Figured the motor was getting REALLY old and didn’t have the power it needed to cut like it used to.. Maybe needed the brushes replaced or cleaned. But this exact saw is definitely a childhood memory

@enduringcharm

8 ай бұрын

It does make a distinct noise on start-up!

The history of the RAS is pretty cool. They built post WWII America. When I was just a young laborer/carpenter wannabe, the BIG 16 in DeWalt was the first tool on site and the last to leave. We gang cut stud, rafters, stair stringers, door and window headers, just about everything with it. Dimensional lumber was cheaper and usually better quality than pre-cut studs and we'd get our blocking and bridging with the off-cuts. The boys upstairs would call down the dimensions, the saw man would call them back. Mark, cut, toss it to them, and go back to his cut list. That old man on the saw lit 2 cigarettes a day. One when he woke up, and one after lunch. He jump started the rest. We didn't worry about the saw getting stolen, it was too heavy. We just put a tarp on it at the end of the day. I used to know how to figure the differences in length to pre-cut jack rafters and rake wall studs for 3 or 4 roof pitches off the top of my head. I'm much dumber now. haha! The table saw didn't even have a fence. Snap a line and follow it freehand. This wasn't finish carpentry though. Good times.

@enduringcharm

Жыл бұрын

For many years I used an Atlas table saw which I inherited from my grandfather. It was a 1949 model, and it had an excellent fence as well as a mount for a riving knife. I put more board feet through that saw than I care to remember, and it was still running on the original bearings when I sold it. Anyway your comment reminded me of that saw because it was also so heavy that you didn't have to worry about it being stolen!

It is impossible to get kickback on a RAS because if boards pinch the blade drives the board into the table whereas the tablesaw lifts the board and throws it toward you.....but both RAS and table saw can cause ejection (throwing board directly back)....and you can safely do thin cuts with a proper long push stick and your hands arent anywhere near the blade...

@enduringcharm

Жыл бұрын

Well, if the board lifts and comes back or if it is driven back, isn't that a distinction without a difference?

@chrisdzisiak7540

Жыл бұрын

Kick back paul’s prevent ejection on a RAS, they work well. Some modern RAS actually have Riving knife also.

Great video.

From what I've researched in the past the number one reason Radial Arm Saws are not popular any more is because they have been outlawed due to accidents. They have regulated them so much that they are now "Only" 240v and I've hard only 3 phase power. This drives up the price and limits who can own them. I would love to have one as they provide some greater flexibility over the table saw. The miter or chop saw doesn't have the reach that a Radial has. To me a miter saw is limited.

@enduringcharm

Жыл бұрын

I don't think there was any conspiracy to outlaw radial arm saws, but if you really want want one they are readily available. Try facebook marketplace or similar listings. You'll find working RAS listings for $50 or even free. As for crosscut reach, most sliding compound miter saws cut to around 14 inches, and some over 15 inches. Since you won't find boards in lumberyards or box stores wider than a 1x12, this is typically plenty. When I cut plywood or glued-up workpieces I use a table saw or a handheld saw with a jig. You can't drag a RAS to a jobsite, typically.

I've used DeWalts for over 60 years, the one my Dad bought, I still use. 50 years ago I learned the hard way, first off, Craftsman mechanic's tools are a yay, Craftsman woodworking tools a nay, and Craftsman electrical tools are a complete waste of money. Damm that Sears card ! Any 10" saw on a household 15amp 120volt circuit is woefully underpowered. For many decades all brands of skilsaws were labelled 12 amp at the most. That 15amp is merely a Craftsman number. And that's with only 7 1/4" or 8 1/4" blades. An underpowered saw will bog down, jam ,and jump at you. Use a thin kerf blade and a 15amp 240volt circuit. The other thing, a DeWalt has something like dozen adjustments for set up. When set, they are easily capable of 1/128" precision. Who wouldn't want that ? No tablesaw cross cutting has that level of precision . ( I have a Delta Unisaw) With all their swivels and pivots they are truly a wonder weapon. But above all PULL WITH YOUR LEFT, HOLD WITH YOUR RIGHT. that gives you the 12" of safety.

I have RIDGID RAS..I'm a Realtor and a former client gave it to me after I sold his house and he was moving out of state. I'm clearly an amateur and l've never felt 100% safe using it. I use my miter saw far more than I ever use my RAS. Recently I've been seriously considering selling it and buying a table saw. For my limited use, it's probably all I need. Your video didn't tell me anything I didn't already know, but it reinforced my beliefs thar it's too dangerous for an amateur, weekend warrior like myself. Thank you.

If you have a cabinet tablesaw it owns the space in the middle of the shop. When the space is limited and a 1x4 needs ripping the RAS is usually set up on a side wall out of the way.

@enduringcharm

3 ай бұрын

I think you've touched on one difference between fans and non-fans of the RAS. If you are a hobbyist, then you may well have a small shop and you may not need to rip anything very big. For the pro, the ability to quickly rip a sheet of plywood down the middle or go through significant LF of trim or other boards make the RAS impractical and the table saw far more attractive.

Very few of the larger tools did I buy new. The radial arm saw was one. Sears in Westfarms Mall. A bunch of years later I kicked it to the curb and gave it away. I never really bonded with that saw.....Do they even sell them these days?

@enduringcharm

Ай бұрын

Radial Arm saws are not widely available new, I'm not even sure they are available at all. They have been replaced with double compound miter saws, among other modern tools.

@Dancing_Alone_wRentals

Ай бұрын

@@enduringcharm .....awh...heck...I can cut a compound mitre on a Boston hip roof with a left handed circular saw......while whistling Dixie, ( I need to run and edit.....Have a super evening)

The full quote goes like this: Jack of all trades master of none, though oftentimes better than master of one.

I have a 10” craftsman RAS and a 16” delta RAS in my shop. In a pinch, I’ve ripped lumber a few times on the 10” if my table saw was set up with a dado stack. I find it awkward to rip on RAS especially if you have long support tables. I wouldn’t want to rip lumber on 16” RAS. I’ve heard of some bad stories about people trying to rip on a RAS and feeding the lumber in the wrong way. I agree that a RAS is best for crosscutting and it’s safer to rip lumber on a table saw.

Thanks for an informative video. I admire your ability to put the negativity behind you and describe the issues without unnecessary passion.

Love mine and added a shop vac & solves your concern.

Every tool is dangerous. I remember these from when a kid, but today I've got a small table saw and a miter saw. They work fine for my little projects. While i love these from a nostalgia point, honestly, i just wouldn't have room to put one if i did have it.

😀 I suppose your critical assessment of the RAS would likely get a lot of RAS users riled up. Like it has been said, any of these tools can be dangerous and one needs to use caution, know the proper operation of each and have a healthy respect for them. I have both myself, but only use my RAS for cross cutting and like the ability to use a dado stack (when compared with my miter saw). I have the Forrest Woodworker I on my 10" Delta and always am away of the possibility of climb, though with that blade its not an issue. That said, I do use my table saw more than the RAS. Though any saw can be dangerous, perhaps the least dangerous is probably the band saw. Thanks for video. Btw, your poor old saw seems to be a little overdue for service! 😉

@enduringcharm

9 ай бұрын

Yeah, I really don't use my old RAS anymore, so I haven't bothered to do any restoration. I suspect part of the controversy relates to the type of work people do. Professionals who need to get work done with speed and efficiency in order to get a paycheck are going to have a different perspective than hobby woodworkers who can afford extra time or the indulgence of using an old machine they enjoy.

Bought my RAS in 1976. Not a professional but I have used it very extensively. Point? I'm used to it. I learned how to use it, and use it properly, decades ago. A table saw OTOH, I am NOT used to. I cringe every time I see someone reaching over and around a spinning table saw blade! I do not disagree with much of what you have said. Definitely not the best at breaking down sheet goods, although I have done it. IMO, unless a large, high-end model, tables saws ain't great at that either. That is the realm for those new-fangled track saws! I use my RAS mostly for ripping these days. When I do, I use the antikickback pawls, adjust the nose of the blade guard and set the splitter. I agree the splitter is a poor substitute for a riving knife. I nearly bought a Sawstop cabinet saw a few years ago. IMO, only that is really a major step up in safety from 50 year old RASs. I do not see non-flash-sensing table saws as inherently safer than a RAS. The machines are different in operation and pose different hazards. There is a risk with these old saws . . . and not what you have covered. These saws don't generally fall into new hands replete with manuals. New owners may not know how to use them safely. Case in point . . . a young fellow in a video here on youtube was refreshing the table on a saw handed down to him from his grandfather. He was not feeding against the blade! In short, he did not know what he was doing. Much of the horror we hear about the RAS is simply attributable to unfamiliarity with how to use these machines. Fingers are lost daily in TS accidents! Both the RAS and the TS will happily chew through human flesh in the blink of an eye! Although I have not done so, only a Sawstop will replace my RAS. Am considering one of their portable saws. Might do that yet. But my RAS continues to do yeoman duty for me and I am reluctant to let it go. One thing . . . for whatever reason, the marketplace has spoken! The RAS isn't coming back!

@KevinCoop1

4 ай бұрын

Well said! I have a 9.5” and a 12” Craftsman RAS. I love using the 12”. I can cut 16 1x4’s exactly the same length in two pulls, and 32 in three pulls if the boards are long enough. I can cut at 48 degrees with no jigs or issues.

Great points! Thanks for the video. I believe that all power tools are dangerous. Frankly, a free hand router scares me more than either an RAS or a table saw. I have both an RAS and table saw in my shop use them both a great deal. I have fashioned dust collection on my RAS that is almost as good as a table saw, and NEVER, NEVER rip on it. To me, the issue is education. An RAS should not be considered a jack of all trades, but it is very useful. I run a lot of lumber through my RAS for cross cutting tasks and for dadoes. It is excellent for that work. Again, thanks for your video. While I don't agree entirely with your point, you make many that are valid and I appreciate that!

I think the basic problem is most people have forgotten the meaning of "opinion" . Many people believe that only theirs is correct. I also have that exact saw for 40+ years and can still can count to ten on my fingers.

@enduringcharm

4 ай бұрын

Agreed--people do tend to get caught up in their own experience. For me as a professional, since shop efficiency affects my paycheck the RAS has limited utility. Some of the safety concerns (particularly the noise level and the dust) are a significant problem. But, if you are an amateur woodworker with a little more time, or if you just enjoy fixing up old machines and using them then the RAS may be a worthwhile footprint in your shop.

I'm a retired cabinet maker, I started as an appetence / laborer about 1958, I have been using Table Saws, Radial Arm Saws, all my life. I love the Radial Arm for molding cutting, making raised panel' cabinet doors, and as an accurate compound miter box. You can put peg holes in your table just as on a workbench to mount feather boards, ETC. I noticed soon after I began watching your podcast, that you are biased against this saw, that's your business, but also be honest, a Radial Arm Saw just as with a table saw is safe, providing you make proper preparations before cutting, such as plenty of feather boards to hold your work in place. Thank You.

@enduringcharm

2 ай бұрын

Well, not so much biased as I have determined the saw just doesn't add much to my shop, never mind the jobsite. Routers have taken the place of the RAS for functions like crosscut dadoes, a dual bevel compound miter saw does all manner of crosscuts AND it's portable, and the table saw can handle full width plywood sheets with ease. So, I still have the RAS, but I rarely use it. The two safety concerns I have most with the RAS, though, are the noise level and the dust. I've tested the RAS as the loudest tool I own: kzread.info/dash/bejne/rIKHma-dYJDLZ6Q.html. And dust collection just isn't efficient on these older machines. You came of age during the heyday of the RAS, so you became comfortable with it. Nothing wrong with that.

@leroyolson4349

2 ай бұрын

@@enduringcharm We all have our preference's, I have found that a well adjuster Radial Arm Saw, replaces a compound Miter Saw, and is an excellent choice for raised panel cutters, and trim cutters, and just like a Table Saw, Finger boards, and guides are required for save, and accurate cutting. Back in the 1980's I made enough trim for a big Timber Frame Home, that the total linear footage, of this trim came to equal over 14 miles, in length. all with trim cutters.

"A jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one" would be the correct saying. These saws are absolutely subjective as far as usefulness goes. In my shop it's very useful, tho it may not be in yours and rhat is fine.

An negative hook blade is only marginally "safer" than one of standard configuration. At the expense of cutting efficiency. I don't use them. Good work habits and awareness will mitigate any hazards much better than specialized blades. When cross cutting, i carefully line up my piece, then, put one foot 20" behind the other, lock my right elbow, and rock backwards for my cut. The limited power of the saw isn't going to overcome my aligned body! I don't use mine to rip, but COULD, if i didn't have quality table saw, either infeed or outfeed.. For really small pieces, I nail my piece with 3d finish nails to a sacrificial plank, and make my cut with a power saw. The most annoying thing (not dangerous) about mine is crap along the fence preventing me from really accurate cuts. I just keep my table swept up, and, I put a little 1/4" bevel along the bottom of my 1 inch "fence". I rarely use my miter saw in the shop! Then again, i don't have the space for both the RAS and miter saw, with long work tables for both.

And I totally agree.

It works best for cross cuts.

You can buy a reasonable RAS for much less than a tiny DIY table saw. Neither are really suitable for ripping large boards as they come. But I will rather equip the RAS with supports to handle the work piece size, than do the same with that tiny table saw. There are many things you can do to enhance the safety also. It’s nothing to do with the inherent design- it has to do with the vintage. You’ll have to do the same to make old table saws as safe. What stops a RAS from having a blade rider for instance- nothing. It’s just in those days nobody did it.

@enduringcharm

9 ай бұрын

It's true, the RAS belongs to a different era when safety concerns were not paramount. But, they were never updated with better safety designs because they fell out of favor and stopped being manufactured.

Just so you know “A jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one.”

@enduringcharm

Жыл бұрын

Ah, yes, but "often times" doesn't mean EVERY time!

I'm going to "rain on your parade" when you said at 7:10 "radial arm saws are not anywhere near as safe for ripping as a table saw." That's just NOT true, in fact, a RAS will not kick back like a table saw because of the blade being above the work and the rotation is downward at the rear, unlike a table saw where the rotation is upward at the rear. Physics always plays an important role in high speed rotating cutters. Yes, there are 2 feed directions depending on the head's position, in rip or out rip. However, the work is always fed into the blades rotation, never with it, or a climb cut. That's the RULE no.1. The second rule, no. 2 is to always rotate the blade guard around to where it's just a 1/64th off the work piece to keep it registered against the table. If you obey those two rules, you can rip safely. You should also make a push board to complete the cut all the way past the blade.

@enduringcharm

21 күн бұрын

Ripping is a big subject, and safety is more than just kickback. For example, what about ripping a heavy 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood for cabinet carcasses or shelving? Or what about ripping short workpieces under a foot long? What about ripping a sixteenth off of a thin quarter round moulding? What about ripping multiple angles on a single workpiece to duplicate an historic railing? These are all routine tasks for many of us, and I would suggest that heavy/wide sheet goods can pose a problem for the RAS, keeping hands clear when ripping short pieces can be more difficult on a RAS, a thin moulding can be a danger since your blade guard isn't effective in that instance, and cutting multiple angles on a single workpiece can lead to exposed saw teeth right in the path of hands or push stick. Safety? Kickback can be one concern, but what about the lack of effective dust collection on a RAS? What about noise level? The RAS is by far the loudest tool I've ever tested with a decibel meter. What about a riving knife to protect against case hardened wood? What about a switch with a safety shut-off you can hit with your knee if needed? What about Sawstop technology if you are so inclined? As I've said before, if you enjoy keeping old tools running or you have a fondness for the RAS, that's great. But I would not recommend one to a new woodworker over a table saw.

I find it interesting that someone preaching the dangers and horrors of a radial arm saw has a table saw without a blade guard or anti kickback pawls. I'll assume you don't do a lot of cross cutting on your table saw

@enduringcharm

3 ай бұрын

Well, my table saw gets reconfigured depending on the task at hand. I have a variety of feather boards I use for both the top and sides of workpieces. I also have several push stick styles I keep hanging at the edge of the table. As for cross cutting, it is the primary tool I use for cutting tenons on smaller pieces in cabinets and furniture, often using a dado blade. In that case I set up a fence spacer to clear the opposite side of the blade. I will also cross cut smaller pieces on the table saw, which can be safer than trying to use a miter saw. When using a standard blade the saw has a riving knife, and that gets removed when cross cutting and put back on for ripping. I do not use a fence ruler for the cut distance as I find them inaccurate for the work I do, so I measure each cut to the blade tooth. A blade guard is not compatible with my workflow or type of work that I typically do.

Most fairly modern (up to ±50 year old DIY) Radial(arm)saws manufactured/sold by B&D/DeWalt/Elu as well industrial RAS's made/sold by other companies (in Europe as well as in the USA) are not hardly as dangerous as you like your viewers te believe. Most (if not all) RAS of which the motor can be turned 90º (ripping position) do have all the standard features you say RAS's (i.c. your Craftsman-RAS) seem to lack. My over 30 year old ELU RAS-8001 (≈DeWalt DW721) has the following standard safety features: 1) fully adjustable riving-knive ⇒ for rip-cuts; 2) fully adjustable finger-protection ⇒ for both cross- & Rip-cuts; 3) fully adjustable anti-kickback-device (AKBD) ⇒ not just a simple hold-down fotr your ripping-stock but a very effective safety feather with making use of effective anti-kick-back-fingers (AKBF's) even when making beveled rip-cuts; 4) fully selfadjusting guardschields ⇒ placed on either side of the sawblade. Ensures the sawblade is hardly if at all exposed from the side. Even during the cut the blade is hardly exposed from the sides facing the operator. As a 12 year old, over 50 years ago, I had my first encounter with a Radial(arm)saw, it already had all the features of my ELU RAS-8001 c.q. DeWalt DW721. The friendly carpenter who owned the RAS carfully tought me how to use it safely for all types of cutting and especially ripping (as a kid/youngster I was not allowed to come even near the in his view far more dangerous table-saws). So be for any new cut, cutting set-up, I was tougth to adjust the finger-protector to the thickness of the stock. For ripping one was to let down and properly adjust the riving knive and the anti-kickback-device. ========== Looking at both your videos it is clear that, contrary to your statements/and believe, your ¿very-old? Craftsman-RAS already has some (if not most) of those important safety-features, be it in a less advanced design than at least de (European) DeWalt-RAS’s from the 70’s and onwards. But somehow you missed them or at least do not seem to really understand them: 1) Riving Knife ⇒ OK, your machine seems to lack the use an fitting of a riving knive; 2) Fingerprotection ⇒ Your machine has an easily adjustable fingerprotector that consists of the (upper) sawcover to be tilted down towards the stock (so downwards towards the operator when crosscuting and ripping); a feature you mistakenly took for some way to improve the dust output/exhaust away from the operator; 3) Anti-kick-back-device (AKBD) ⇒ your machine already features a quite effective anti-kick-back-device (AKBD) including anti-kick-back-fingers (AKBF), at least for non-beveled ripping. But since, at least in outrip-postion, you mistakenly feed the stock from right to left (as suitable for in-rips) which places the AKBD in reversed (and therefor nonfunctional) postion with respect to the direction of the stockfeed; thisway the AKBD can only serve a a simple holddown. In your video you further push down the AKBD so far that the AKBF's become completely useless even in in-rip-position; this way the AKBF's only 'serve' as ineffective/useless sliders/scratchers over the top of the stock when in passes underneath during the rip-cut. This shows that you did not fully understand haw to make use of the AKBD other then as a (useless) holddown. When usede an adjuted in a correct way your AKBD ensures safe ripping at least for non-beveled rip-cuts. I strongly suggest you look up the manual that shows the correct use of the quite functional AKBD + AKBF’s and as well as the othe features tha make ripping an a RAS at least as safe as on most (modern) tablesaws. 4) Sideguard-shields - your machine lacks them so the downpart of the sawblade ios fullyexposed; I don’t know if your Craftsman never had susch side proitection as standarrd or as an accessorie, but most modern RAS’s have them even though many operators take them of (parcially). ========== Any machine that is not operated carefully or in the way it is intended is dangerous; and sure some of the possible uses shown in older manuals are never save; Nowadays safety plays a greater role in the use of most machines and manufacturers take great care not to propagate improper and dangerous uses of all kinds of statonairy saws, be it bandsaws, tablesaws, radial(arm)saws and even (vertical) panelsaws, but a properly used RAS is not more dangerous than a table-saw, neither for crosscuts, nor mitering nor ripping. So make them safe by using them safely, try to understand how to best use them (safe) and tka advantage of all its features without making unsubstantiated claims about the dangers of either machines, especially where those dangers can easily mitigated by proper understanding and use. And further RTFM, and if it doesn't make sense RTFM again (and again). een vriendelijke groet, Simon Koorn (Netherlands)

Why's it called a radial arm saw? It moves radially and it's for sawing off your arm.

I hope you all dump your RASs on then internet and I can buy them all for $10 each 😅

@enduringcharm

Жыл бұрын

I have good news for you--if you look on FB marketplace or craigslist you'll find that people in most areas are giving away radial arm saws or would gladly take you $10. While you're at it, you can pick up as many pianos as you like for free too!

Look, this tool has its limits. If I had no other way to Rip I would use it for that. But I have a real tablesaw. So what is this tool good for. Cross cutting: All angles, and including Dados. Now the question is why does one need a Miter saw is the real question.

@enduringcharm

5 ай бұрын

Well, one reason to have a miter saw would be portability. You don't see radial arm saws on jobsites.

Alright…alright…we get it. You don’t like it. We won’t get it.

@enduringcharm

8 ай бұрын

Ha! You can get one, if you like. Some hobbyists enjoy tinkering with older machinery, and that's fine. I just don't think the RAS is the best choice for a professional or production level shop or for those with limited space or resources.

I agree with you 100%, and I have had this same argument with many people over the years. I have worked in some sort of woodworking or cabinet shop for 30 years, and the number 1 tool I hate the most is a radial arm saw. It may have had its place at one time in history, but that time has come and gone with all the other option you have now.

@enduringcharm

Жыл бұрын

Yeah, I used mine for crosscut dadoes for awhile, but even that I now do more quickly with a router jig.

This thing looks extremely dangerous

@KevinCoop1

4 ай бұрын

Misuse cause injuries.