Blackie you are a lifesaver I do watch all your videos

Having become a BP pistol junkie (your fault) my choice has become the 5 inch 1858 New Army 44. Weight and feel is perfect for me. Even though I think Pietta's the best manufacturer right now I must have 6 / 8 hours of going through every opening, part looking for burs, wire edges, anything resembling a loose or oddly tight fit and dealing with any I find. All due to your previous videos on what to look for and how to deal with them. I think it is fantastic that you are starting a series on the BP pistol again. Can't wait for the next video. Thank you for all this work in advance. Most don't know it can take hours to video, sound, edit, post a relatively short video. Just thanks!

@blackoracle69

6 жыл бұрын

as soon as the new spring gets here we will do the next video

Thanks Blackie for another great video. Thanks to you I am becoming addicted to black powder revolvers.

@blackoracle69

6 жыл бұрын

glad you enjoy them safe journeys

Thanks for the tip I will adjust my springs accordingly. Looking forward to the new spring video. Have a great Day

thankyou this video helped me troubleshppt my cyllnder timing issues

Greetings from Ireland. I love anything to do with black powder and particularly cap & ball related topics. Thanks for all that.

Just in time for spring. Please spring don’t break. Stay warm till summer. Lol 😆 keep up good work Blackie Stay safe.

Excellent video Blackie. I am looking forward to the spring video.

Thanks Blackie , that was excellent info and made it a whole lot easier to service my 1851 !

I've got a genuine Colt 2nd generation 1860. It's got a real trigger spring and not that stamped crap the Italians use. edit: I also recommend the modern wire springs. I haven't (so far) broken one.

Hi, I'm new to BP revolver and already broke a bolt spring (was tight to death when I disassembled it, thx pietta) and a hammer spring shortly after (bad luck I assume), I've put the new bolt spring back tighten just enough so I can screw back the trigger guard, I hope the bolt spring will ast longer this time. Really nice advice.

Thanks again Blackie, always informative. I always enjoy these videos.

Blackie Thomas, you are a gentleman and a scholar.

Thanks for the heads up Blackie.

The wire spring will also work in the1858 models.

I've had good results using my girlfriends hair barrettes, the long tear drop shape pieces of spring steel that you bend and they open up and then you bend back to shut them, I use wire cutters to cut a general shape out and then usually just have to dremel a wider hole for the screw and bend it like the old spring and good as new, even works with the peacemakers but pardon the pun, makes the trigger a hair trigger

once again, good information, thank you.

great video, great tip! my biggest issue is the beatin my hand is taking! Continues to wear a great deal in spite of polishing internals. doubt it will survive a year.

Thanks for the video Blackie. Got a friend who got an old Navy arms 51 that has a broken spring, I think. Sent the video to him. Love the old colts. Such great shooters with just a few minutes work.

@blackoracle69

6 жыл бұрын

they are great..with a little love and understanding of problems they become very good field guns

@Rumblestrip

6 жыл бұрын

BLACKIE THOMAS Ive taken to using them as EDC the last couple of years. 44s I find if you run a pick through the vent once a week they stay very reliable. Kind of like the powder trys to settle into the vent and fuse off if you don't. My 36s don't seem to suffer that issue. I open carry most of the time. The guys around the yard at work have taken to calling me Yosemite Sam. I don't really mind. I'm actually kind of honored by it. Nice part is, not as heavy as my 1911. Lol Like anything just takes a little knowledge, time and patience. They all have their quirks.

Nice new intro

Blackie Thomas is the only name you need to know if you are talking BP Pistols, he is the Man.

Got an 1861 pietta navy for Christmas… took it apart and removed all the edges and burrs (or so I thought). After cycling the action numerous times it stopped locking at half cock. I took it apart and realized that the bolt wore the cam on the inside face of the hammer. There was fine metal glitter in there from the wear. Needless to say, I have a Dixie gunworks hammer on the way to try out. I’ll make sure that cam is burr free. Fantastic gun overall!

@hewettp9210

Жыл бұрын

I’m experiencing the exact same problem right now. My cam went bad, so I just got a new hammer, but it is still grinding. So I decided to get a new bolt. Hoping that will fix the lockup on half cock, and stop the grinding of the cam.

QUESTION::: Could the same spring cause "Jams?" this is not happening every hammer cock, more like every 6th to 8th hammer pull everything is seized, only momentarily. Once hammer released, back into action we go..All I have done break edges on bolt stop, break edges on ratchets, check hammer/hand fit, smooth out hand track/channel try to de-burr or chamfer that track/channel hand rides in. I also followed Duelist recommendations on polishing trigger bar/bolt stop bar, polishing the metal at ends (not threaded ends) of the screws that hold trigger/bolt stop. My arbor at end where wedge goes was a nightmare burr infested clump, I did polish smooth, 400 grit and hand power. it all is working and back together, still got the one hiccup or Jam. If I did not know better I think my 1851 Navy identifies as Wild Bill Hiccup of the 3 stooges.

Hey Blackie, hope y'all had a great Christmas! Having an issue with one of my 1851 brass frame revolvers where the bolt isn't timing right. I've noticed that the shelf the trigger/bolt spring sits on has a slight angle to it. High in the back than in the front. Is this normal? I haven't noticed that to be the case on any of my other revolvers.

As always, great information, Blackie! I have a different problem, though, with myn1858 New Army; the hand sticks out too far. When I put the cylinder back into the frame I have to use a knife blade to push the hand back otherwise it won't go in. Is there an adjustment somewhere to make the hand go back when half-cocked? Or should I file it down? Thanks.

@blackoracle69

6 жыл бұрын

the way you put it back is to twist the cyl in the direction of rotation..drop in until it rest on hand then twist..and the had will roll up and out of the way..mine does it to..hope this helps safe journeys

The "two legged spring" concept appears to have been used on many Colts, including the 1911. I knew about the compatibility of the 1851, 1860, 1861 & 1873; but I have never heard of music wire springs available for the 1911. (I think the 1911 has three legs.) Is such a thing available? Or even is it necessary?

Blackie, my 1851 Navy is about 20 yrs old, and the cylinder gap is now at .022”..! It’s gotten so that I must hold the cylinder back when shooting to insure that the hammer contacts the cap; otherwise it won’t fire. I am trying to file down the arbor to get that gap shortened.. is that the right approch? Or is there another way to solve?

piano wire spring 1851 navy ok.....put in ebay stamped for now....snug... not tight...used small dia screwdiver... works fine...

Someone was saying on KZread that they used this on their 1858 pietta Remington new model navy/army. Said to look this video up. Is this true sir?

Where do you get the Wolf trigger bolt spring? Mine just broke I need one yesterday 😢

Hi Blackie, Just discovered your videos. I have a remington stainless target model in 44. When pulling back the hammer quickly the cylinder bolt does not come up fast enough and the cylinder travels too far and does not lock up. Is this due to a week trigger/bolt spring? Thanks!

@blackoracle69

6 жыл бұрын

that would be my first look if the bolt is not pop-n into batter in the right place it will miss the fast rotation..if it locks up solid when cocked normal or especially very slowly..then the spring would be replaced and that should fix

@MrDavidTiller

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks! I have a spring ordered and on the way. Just took the burs off my 1861 .36 Navy Colt as you showed in your last video. Going to hone it up on the internals. Thanks for all the great videos.

Well Blakie it wasn't the spring. Not sure what is going on with the Remington now. If I pull the hammer very fast to the rear the cylinder bolt still misses the groove in the cylinder and over rotates out of alignment. Any ideas what may be going on? Could the indents on the cylinder be too narrow below a few chambers? Do I need a new Bolt or did I buy a used lemon? By the way its a used revolver. Too much wear and tear on it?

@blackoracle69

6 жыл бұрын

ok my train of thought would be..take gun apart see if the bolt face will sit into the bolt lock notches if not file edges of bolt until they do ( go very gently with removal fit often) next check the opening in the frame where the bold sticks up and locks the cyl..make sure no burs are making the bolt drag and miss its lock up time..if the cyl lock up solid when you cock very slowly then the bolt is not moving quick enough to catch the cyl during rapid rotation

@MrDavidTiller

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks again! I will check on this. Seems like than back of the bolt may be rubbing up against the trigger. Would this slow it down enough?

@blackoracle69

6 жыл бұрын

it can be sure there are no burrs on any of the bearing areas

My 1851 won't fully cock because there isn't enough tention in the spring to push down on the trigger to lock the sear on the hammer grooves.

@blackoracle69

3 жыл бұрын

i have had that happen before often the trigger spring leg that goes to the trigger is actually cracked and has lost power taylor and co has replacements for sale and so does dixiegunworks

@thevanishingsaxon663

3 жыл бұрын

@@blackoracle69 Funny you mention that, Taylor's is where I got this same spring from lol. I guess it went out of place during shipping. I just ever so slightly bent it and it fixed the problem. After fixing the trigger spring, I then ran into another issue... typically the case. The trigger then would lock up every times I cocked the hammer back. After hours of closely examining the moving parts; I discovered that if I take the barrel and cylinder off, it wouldn't lock up at all, and everything moved properly. Turns out there wasn't enough space between the barrel and the cylinder pin (the piece the wedge slides through the hold the barrel on). I stuffed a little bit of cotton in the hole where the cylinder pin fits to the barrel, put everything back together and now it's working perfectly. It reminded me of a similar issue I use to have with cylinder drag that one of your videos addresses.

:-)

Use Loctite #242, blue to keep the screw in place.