its fun to watch someone who's capable of making as many mistakes as I am.

@Preso58

2 жыл бұрын

Mistakes? What mistakes? 😁 Regards, Mark

Let's turn that frown upside down shall we? Cut the bar in half and face the cut ends, drill and tap tight tolerance threads in both ends, add threaded rod w/locking nuts and now you have a length adjustable bar without the need for more tightening screws unless you want even more span. If you really want to go all out, add a pair of parallel guide rods so the two ends remain planar aligned when adjusting the length. It'll take some time but still easy peasy! Also good Sir... It would have been cool to show (in this video) the anodizing and bluing as it really comes together nicely at the end so to see that process here (though you've made another finishing video) would have been excellent! Thanks for the cool work!

@Preso58

2 жыл бұрын

I did a follow up video on the full anodising process called Metal Finishing With Mark. There was also an earlier one but I was still finding my way with the process at that point. For me, at least, it has been a long, slow, at times frustrating process but I am now getting more reliable results. Regards, Mark

Hi Mark, thank you for showing the making of that Quick Change post dial indicator, with errors and all. The showing of the errors does help people learn the pit falls and traps of designing and this in itself is a good lesson. thank you. I myself have designed a double dovetail holder that uses the one dial indicator and this works fine - modeled in solid works.

Hi Mark, first time watching your video. There are smaller, 1.5" dial indicators available and probably a lot less money than the M&W one. Get two, permanently mounted and quite possibly no mods needed. I realize this is four years too late but like they say "better late than never" or more to the case in question "measure twice and cut once". Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🤔🇳🇿🍌🇺🇦🕊️🇨🇦👍

@Preso58

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Ron. It does get a bit tedious moving the indicator from one end to the other but I was on a fairly strict budget when I made that tool. With Covid keeping us home more and less opportunity to travel now I can afford to stock up on more and better tools. Regards, Mark

Nice anodizing. Quick tip Mark. Drill and tap holes before milling the slot. Saves deburring a difficult to get at burr on the inside. The milling action automatically removes any potential burrs. I use this method all the time, especially when CNC milling.

Still a good build. To fix the length of the indicator holding bar, I would cut it like you said, but then I would drill and tap a large enough hole to accept a short length of a threaded rod and use thread locker to make the bar longer.

I have really enjoyed your videos.

Mark, I have been going through and watching all of your videos. You are doing an excellent job my friend, I really enjoy them! Subscribed and liked! Thank you.

@Preso58

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks for that. I enjoy putting the videos up there. I'm glad you are getting something out of it too.

I amd learning a lot from your work. Thank for posting these. I subscribed as well!! Bob from Virginia, USA

@Preso58

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks Bob. I'm glad you see this as a learning opportunity as opposed to entertainment! In my former career I was a teacher for 35 years and it just dawned on me that I am back doing what I had been slogging away at in the classroom but now I don't have to do any assessment and reporting. Yay!

Thank you, nice tool.

You could try a lever style indicator with a swivel spigot in the tailstock chuck. It can indicate the id + od + face, it will always be on center too.

@Preso58

Ай бұрын

That would be nice. I made use of a regular indicator that I bought for a reasonable price. It works well but having to change it over gets somewhat annoying. Regards, Mark

Great project. Thanks for the video. Suggestion, cut it in 1/2 and drill and tape through the side into the block. They be in a fixed position then. Cheers

The only tip I would give out is to work from center with your dovetail cutter, that way you can it makes it easier to cut each side of the dovetail the same depth

Consider this as being your first article, pre-production. This is the iterative design model.

Great video! I wish all my machining mistakes were like this...

@lcsavi

3 жыл бұрын

@Ulises Julian Thanks for the tip! I'll check it out.

Looks good though.

If you are interested in getting a surface plate instead of using your table saw, you can get a granite one 300 x 200 x 50 from carbatec for $80. I have one and it is very nice.

@Preso58

6 жыл бұрын

John, I have that granite plate on my shopping list. I would dearly like to have one like Stefan Gotteswinter's. It looks to be the size of my kitchen table.

@hughgaynor4320

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you John I will get one from Carbatec now they are listed at $87.

@TrevorDennis100

4 жыл бұрын

@@hughgaynor4320 It'll be too late now methinks, but Carbatec offer a 15% discount to Menz Shed members in NZ. Their up front prices are usually high, but I just checked and they are NZ$30 cheaper than My Tools (via TradeMe) for the 12" X 9" X 2", although the MyTools' price includes shipping. There appears to be no way of checking the Carbatec shipping cost other than actually buying the thing. I'll drop them an email and ask.

Araldite a couple of bits of steel shimstock inside the dovetail of the oversize Al toolholder to reclaim it.

tres bien

@Preso58

4 жыл бұрын

Vous êtes les bienvenus.

Hey good work bloke... Cut it in half drill and tap ends and use a stud to join them together

@Preso58

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks, I hadn't thought of that. It would mean having to get the drilled holes exactly in the centre of the stock. I have sort of committed myself to making a new arm. Think of it as sort of a punishment for making dumb mistakes!

Grind out the dents in that ego, primer and paint. I recommend hammertone...

I think it looks great, I kind see that it's a pity the arm isn't quite long enough but on a positive note you have at least made others aware of the problem if they want to make one. The anodising is impressive is there any change you could make a video of the how you did it? Many thanks.

@Preso58

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks for that. I have already decided to make a new arm but I will have to make it from round stock as I don't have any more square stuff. I have done a video on home anodising which shows my setup. You can view it here kzread.info/dash/bejne/k3aisrVqksLZl7A.html and the anodising stuff starts at 12:30. One thing I have found is that the grade of aluminium has a lot to do with the sort of finish you get and there are some online calculators which are supposed to tell you what current, time and voltage settings to use. In practice, I found they were no good for my setup and now I just limit the voltage to 15V and let the parts take as much current as they want and I leave them in for at least 90 minutes. The last batch of parts came out great.

@modelsteamers671

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks, I'll take a look.

Nice project I would like to build one for my lathe. I know you said it was a 60 degree dove tail cutter but what size did you use 3/8" 1/2" or 3/4" I do not have one and will need to purchase it. I have looked them up and they come in those sizes. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the good videos.

@Preso58

6 жыл бұрын

Hi Anthony. My cutter was a 25mm diameter by 60 degrees. I got mine here www.ebay.com.au/itm/60-Degree-TiN-HSS-Dovetail-Milling-Cutters-16mm-20mm-25mm-32mm-/132254191153?var=&hash=item1ecaf6ce31 I found that the most important thing was to have a cutter with enough depth to get to the bottom of the dovetail in one pass. My tool post is a BXA which takes 250-201 tool blocks. If you are using the AXA or 250-102 tool blocks you may get away with a smaller diameter cutter.

@anthonycash4609

6 жыл бұрын

Mark Presling thanks for the reply Mark that helps me a lot especially being a newbie and just a hobbyist at the lathe. And yes I do have an AXA.

@Preso58

6 жыл бұрын

If it were me I would probably go with a 1" diameter which will give you a depth of cut of over 1/2". I think the AXA dovetail is .381" deep which might be a bit of a stretch for a 3/4" cutter. Good luck!

Hi Mark. This is the first time I have seen one of your videos, so I did not know anything about your mill, and I thought you were running a bit fast with the dovetail cutter. It sounded at least on the verge of chatter, and the vibration was even more apparent in the speeded up footage. Do you use CAD? I work it all out with SketchUp which will reveal any interference errors, as well as make it easy to provide dimensions. I believe SketchUp Make is free, and it is very easy to use. How much did that M&W DTI cost? I discovered wish.com and bangood a few months ago, and now have three 'Chinesium' DTIs all of which work really well, and cost me less than NZ$20 each. I was very impressed with that anodised finish, and will be looking for somewhere to get it done locally (near Blenheim NZ). Kudos for fessing up to those wee mistakes. I retired after 38 years as a toolmaker and later a design engineer at Ford UK in 2003, aged 54, and had a long break from machining until joining the local Menz Shed three years ago. What I found was that I was far more prone to making mistakes, and more worrying, was also more prone to wee accidents like catching my hand with the angle grinder. So I have had to resort to extending the old adage to measuring 'three' times and cutting once, and always wearing Kevlar reinforced gloves when using the angle grinder. I'm looking forward to watching more of your videos, and maybe borrowing an idea or two from you.

@Preso58

4 жыл бұрын

Trevor, thanks for the feedback. With regard to the mill and the chatter issue, the vertical head that came with the Denbigh mill was in bad shape and once fitted and driven off the main shaft of the mill, there was almost no vertical height for a vice and a collet chuck. I made my own (aluminium) castings for a new vertical head which had it's own motor and belt drive but it lacks the strength and rigidity of a proper cast iron head. As such, it is really only for light work and I have to take very light cuts in order to get any sort of accuracy. I am looking to purchase a Bridgeport or similar to replace it some time next year. I do use CAD, mostly Autodesk Inventor but also Fusion 360 and Sketchup. When I was still teaching I had full access to the commercial version of CATIA and my students and I used it for CAD/CAM operations in a programme called F1 in Schools. CATIA really was the bees knees and very few commercial enterprises could afford to purchase the full version. I think Boeing and Dassault were among the few who used it's full potential. Unfortunately, CATIA revoked the partnership they had with F1iS and Autodesk filled the void and made it available free of charge to students and teachers in the programme. Having said that, my design process is often dictated by what is in the scrap box and this means making some compromises with the dimensions on some projects. The DTI was purchased on Ebay and it was relatively cheap. Under AU$50 but it is not calibrated properly and doesn't return exactly to zero. It doesn't really matter to me but I should look into how to calibrate it properly. I do buy my share of cheap Chinese tools and sometimes I have buyer's remorse but I am now retired and don't have an unlimited budget either. My wife and I took a trip out to the local Noosa Men's Shed earlier this month and were greatly impressed with the range of activities and facilities they had. I tend to be a bit of a loner but I can see why they are so popular and I fully endorse the philosophy and opportunities they provide. I hear what you are saying about injuries increasing with advancing years. I've yet to have a really bad one but I know that the odds are increasing. Regards, Mark Presling

Looks good Mark. Can you tell me the make and model of your digital height gauge please? I am rather taken with that over my Chesterman vernier one.

@Preso58

4 жыл бұрын

I just went down to the workshop to check and I cannot find a brand, serial number or identification mark on it anywhere. Even the original documentation gives me no clue about the manufacturer. I do have the delivery docket from when I purchased it on Ebay and it cost me AU $390. It looks like a clone of a Groz gauge www.ebay.com.au/itm/Groz-DHG-12-Digital-Height-Gauge-Single-Beam-0-300mm-GZ-01636/174073759680?hash=item28879ac7c0:g:oooAAOSwqMtdr6Cc but it is very well made and it came from a German company. So if it is a clone it is a good quality German clone. Sorry I don't have any more information. Ebay only keeps your purchase history for three years and I got it back in 2017. Regards, Mark

At the risk of looking stupid, what did you use to form the radius at the ends of the bar?

@Preso58

4 жыл бұрын

I did those on the little CNC milling machine. At the time I didn't have a good touch probe and as a result I was having trouble centring the radius on the stock. I subsequently purchased a 5 way touch probe and changed my control software to MachStd Mill which has much better software tools for touching off on the stock. Regards, Mark

Looks to me like a good excuse to buy an indicator with a smaller face.

@Preso58

6 жыл бұрын

Yes, good idea but it would cost me more than just a replacement indicator. You see, my wife.....Ooooh no, here she comes now!!!!

@Splunkzop

5 жыл бұрын

Wife jokes are funny and I make them too, but my missus doesn't bitch and moan when I buy stuff. I told her I might have to buy a mill but it would cost about $7k. She said, 'Well just get one, then.' I think I did better than winning the lottery when I found her.

It's very difficult to design and build a prototype the first time through.

@TrevorDennis100

4 жыл бұрын

As I mentioned in another video, that's one of the reasons that CAD is so useful. Mocking it up with CAD (I use SketchUp Pro) would show any issues with overlap/interference.

If????? the aluminum ever wears enough to become a bit loose on the tool post you could mill off the two sides with the dovetail. Then use counter sunk cap screws to fasten two steel plates to the back side of the tool holder. Re-cut the dovetail in the steel to size and you then have a lifetime lasting tool Mark. I suspect it would take a great deal of use before that happens though. And I don't agree at all with the poster below about it being easy to destroy an indicator with this type of indicator mount. If your actually destroying delicate tools during use or ham fisted errors your quite obviously doing something very wrong and maybe black smithing might be a better hobby. :-)

@Preso58

4 жыл бұрын

I am always careful not to over tighten the wedge when using this tool. It doesn't need to be super tight like a cutting tool holder. So far it has held up well. My issue is that I find it hard to get decent sized pieces of steel for this sort of work. I get very jealous of makers who have access to big chunks of scrap. The only company close to me who had offcuts went broke years ago so now I have to buy stock from Ebay and it winds up being very costly. I agree that you need to treat indicators with respect. Thanks for the tips regarding how to increase the wear resistance of the dovetail. Regards, Mark

@turningpoint6643

4 жыл бұрын

@@Preso58 I'm in the same boat as far as finding a decent supply of cheap scrap metal in the larger sizes where the project doesn't require an exact grade, type or alloy. Frustrating at times and always expensive for sure. If it's ever needed re-cutting the dovetails a bit wider and bonding some thin steel plate to the sides would also work with some of today's high strength adhesives. But as you said as is it should last a very long time.

Nope, I can't agree with this concept at all.....by being fixed the indicator is vulnerable to being damaged by a simple knock.....better to have the indicator on a mini mag base and stick it against a tool holder side or front either way for shaft work or facing etc. So many people have gone down this path and I've seen more indicators totally demolished by being hard fixed and bumped.

@Preso58

4 жыл бұрын

Ian, I can understand why my approach would be less than desirable in a commercial operation where part turnaround time and tool inventory is an important aspect of the business. However, as a hobbyist, I have the luxury of being able to take my time with setups. I may only use that indicator 10 times a year and it's nice to know that it can be set up on centre with some degree of precision. I do have two mag bases but they always seem to be in need of lots of adjustment to get them to bear on the part I want to measure. My lathe also lacks a flat surface where I can leave the indicator close to the work. I was also keen to see if I could machine a dovetail with the necessary accuracy to make it fit my QCTP. Regards, Preso

@gangleweed

4 жыл бұрын

@@Preso58 In any environment it only takes one knock....we'll have to agree to disagree.....Chow.