The most efficient advanced max strength hangboard routine!? (Article linked!)

June 30th 2024
Re-uploaded this as I messed up the audio, my mic was recording in mono but I set the audio channel in davinci to stereo.
As always, adjust the routine as it fits you! :)
Reference (via Eric Horst)
(no.3 under MAXIMUM FINGER STRENGTH PROTOCOLS, I slightly amended how I did it)
physivantage.com/pages/the-ul....
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#climbing #bouldering #training #hangboarding #fingerstrength

Пікірлер: 6

  • @lostinfailure
    @lostinfailureАй бұрын

    I made a follow up video in reply to a question in the comments :) kzread.info/dash/bejne/pZuMss6vaNHcf7w.html Hope that this is helpful

  • @capacapa9733
    @capacapa9733Ай бұрын

    I've been climbing for almost 1.5 years i have the Beastmaker 2000 and a few months ago i had a realisation that my form wasnt correct. So now with correct form( my DIP joints not bending negative) i can't even hang from the 15mm without weight. How do I build up my fingerstrength with the correct form? I am afraid i will injury myself again with weights.

  • @lostinfailure

    @lostinfailure

    Ай бұрын

    @@capacapa9733 Hey, I would suggest starting with a bigger hold. Perhaps 20mm for training 4 finger crimps, with your beastmaker 2000 u can try to make a spacer that is 12mm thick and place it in the biggest slots (32mm). The aim here is progression so build up your max strength on the 20mm and then ease your way into 15mm. Alternatively u could also use a pulley to take off weight to make the hang easier. You want to as best as possible hang with some shoulder engagement bent arms around 120 degrees Keep record of your hangs as well so you can track progress and good luck! As for injury prevention, always ensure a warm up like I mentioned in the video. Sessionwise u might want to keep max hangs separate from your climbing as you do not want to compromise your climbing. Likewise you dont want to climb hard before hangboarding :) You can also dm me on insta if u need more help, always happy to give a tip or 2 here and there :)

  • @meagherman1013

    @meagherman1013

    Ай бұрын

    Gonna throw in, try doing edge pick ups instead of hanging, you get to actually measure the weight with good form without doing bodyweight.

  • @lostinfailure

    @lostinfailure

    Ай бұрын

    @@meagherman1013 This is a great suggestion too, I personally found that pick ups are a great warm up too for me as it means i can dive into my working sets on my max hang sessions more smoothly

  • @lostinfailure

    @lostinfailure

    Ай бұрын

    btw I made a follow up video - kzread.info/dash/bejne/pZuMss6vaNHcf7w.html :)