I did my first multi pitch last week (stunning views over Koh Tao but I digress), pretty much learned everything from your videos over the last 2-3 years. They are priceless cannot thank you enough!

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

Hey that's awesome, good skills!

Dude these are some of the most instructive vids on KZread. Totally underrated channel. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us.

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

Super kind!

Woah!! This is RAD! We appreciate your efforts to educate the greater climbing community!

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

Pleasure 👊

Fantastic video as always JB, especially someone the background to usage rather than just a video of how to build them.

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

Glad you liked it!

Great video. Much appreciate the advice and honesty throughout. 👍

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

Pleasure 👊

This is an amazing video! I am a single pitch sport climber looking to expand my experiences outside and I have found this very helpful. I will start all my multi-pitch and trad climbs with a guide, so I am not depending on this video for definitive direction on belay rigging advice, but this give me a foundation of understanding that will help me more quickly assimilate what my guide instructs me on. I really appreciate your video, thank you!

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

Glad you like it, enjoy your adventures!

@DerrickNedzelMtnBike

Жыл бұрын

@@JBMountainSkills I’m headed out to do some single pitch sport climbs in Clear Creek Canyon in Colorado USA Today - should be fun! Spring has begun here, this will be my first outdoor climb of the year.

Thanks!

Helpful as always. Could you make a video about "how to use stakes for abseil and belay on cliffs?" Like in Swanage area? I don't think I came across a decent video about that.

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

I'll add it to the list!

@gjefferies

Жыл бұрын

Second that, thanks.

Great videos! Would you not back up the wire gate krab with another wire gate (b-2-b) or just slip a screw gate into the cam sling on a typical belay? Or are you not concerned given it would all be loaded with redundancy anyway?

Good work as usual… (the phrase “combining tactics” would be frowned upon in past years, though). 😂

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

Cheers 👊

Your vids are class ! Thank you :) Can I ask, if you have enough rope on a single pitch what are major benefits of using slings vs. the climbing rope to belay. I suppose it's space in general with the rope diameter going into a DMS and depending on the amount of anchor points you have, but let's say you have 3 anchors all not too far away, one static sling vs. clipping into the rope with clove hitches etc., is there a safety element or just preference for this?

Very useful again

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

Cheers!

Is it fine to just put a carabiner in the overhand knot or figure of eight when building a fixed masterpoint anchor in order to make it easier to untie. I have found it difficult to untie after the knots have been weighted, so putting a carabiner inside the knot, which can then be removed leaving slack in the knot, makes it a lot easier.

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

It's a thing I do sometimes, but I've not seen any testing of it. It would be interesting to see if the knot slips at a lower KN in a pull test.

@apple11117

Жыл бұрын

@@JBMountainSkills Agreed I would be interested in finding out. Thanks for replying!

What you think of a bowline on a bight instead of a bunny ears knot? Again there would be 4 strands in the master point although all should be clipped since I think some make a fake nipping loop

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

Sounds fine in principle but I've not seen any testing...

Please forgive what may be a daft question, as I'm only just learning this sort of stuff! For the quad, or any of the other self-equalising setups, could you mitigate slightly the risk of taking a static fall by clove hitching onto the carabiner? Thanks.

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

Hi, really sorry, not quite sure what you mean?

@Chris-eo5zs

Жыл бұрын

@@JBMountainSkills Sorry, what I mean is, you're tied into your climbing rope, you then tie into the quad with a clove hitch. Would that not then put some dynamic rope between you and the sling, lessening the shock load on the sling?

Maybe I'm greedy, but I often try and get three bits of gear if I can. The only setup here that (I think) can be used in a three-point anchor are the masterpoint (overhand/FO8) ones right?

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

Yeah I’ll often want three, even more potentially. You could use 3 points with a regular y hang, the girth hitch method, the quad, a combo of y hang and clove hitches, there’s quite a few options.

Could I ask why the quad anchor isn't as common in the UK? Just curious, like you said there are different tools for different situations

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

We just don't tend to carry cordlettes and are bit transfixed on achieving perfect equalisation (perfect not being possible of course).

Hey JB I've got a question I haven't seen answered anywhere. If you have a short sling and you need self equalizing with separation. How about a single strand quad? Like you'd do a sliding x with stopper knots, just without the sliding x part, clipping one of the in between knots strands instead. You'd lose the redundancy of the double strands, but it's not like most people clip into the double strands on figure 8 masterpoint anchors either, right? Most people clip into one of the strands and then use the other for belaying (EDIT: just learned this is actually not the case). Is there a reason why the quad always has double strands? Is that two rather than four strands quad an anchor you'd recommend against?

@xaviergorloo8050

Жыл бұрын

I'd be asking myself what advantage does clipping just one strand vs clipping both strands via the sliding x have over the sliding x method? Yeah a sling rated to 20kn is probably fine but if it doesn't hurt to clip both I will. However, quads are often made with corrdelete and the standard is 7mm rated to 13kn. When you have a knot in the system you reduce the strength by 50 percent so your single strand now is roughly 6.5kn and those forces can be generated in a factor 2 fall. Anyway quads are kinda overated imo because they are super material inefficient

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

Good question. I do tend to clip both strands of an 8 master point personally, if I want to separate the belay I'll either utilise the shelf. I can't really see a genuine advantage to only clipping one strand of a sliding x without the x so it's not something I'd do. If I was doing a quad, I'd do it "properly" to keep more redundancy.

@urik

Жыл бұрын

Ha, today I learned I had this wrong assumption for such a long time for the first thing one learns multi pitching. Thanks to both of you!

@coopermetzger5026

Жыл бұрын

I have used (pretty much) the anchor you describe as a top-rope setup. However instead of clipping only a single strand I clip both strands independently, so that there is one carabiner on each strand. Then each of those two carabiners gets clipped into the rope. I would prefer a quad or pre-equalized anchor in pretty much every scenario I can think of, but when I do not have the materials or terrain to allow for one of those options this does the job. Building redundancy in anchors pays dividends when things fail.

Hmm. I am not sure if i get your point. Why would you NOT use slidnig X (with limiter) on TRAD ?

@roryhowett4917

Жыл бұрын

Just to limit extension. If one blows I'd rather not risk shock loading the other one!

@simonrobbins815

Жыл бұрын

Maybe we should use a sliding-X for trad, although I rarely have. Usually I am much more worried about extension and shock-loading (if one piece were to fail) rather than perfect equalisation, so prefer a fixed master point knot.

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

One of the fundamentals of belay building is "No Extension", so personally I'd avoid sliding x / quad on trad. But as with all things, it depends on the situation so never say never.

@KubaDawidChrzan

Жыл бұрын

@@JBMountainSkills even with limiter knots ? I am surprised because for full trad anchors i would put equalization on 1 place.

Do you do private tuition, do you have a website?

@scottlstone

Жыл бұрын

For complete novices (first timers)

@JBMountainSkills

Жыл бұрын

I do have a website: www.jbmountainskills.co.uk