We visit Christ Church Cathedral here in the heart of Dublin. It’s located at the end of Edward street and next to Wood Quay, which was the mediaeval heart of Dublin.
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Aside from the cathedral there’s not much trace of that old Dublin here today as a result of much development in the 20th Century. The construction of the carriageway in front of the cathedral, that’s the continuation of Dame street, severed the cathedral from its medieval streets and surroundings. Other redevelopment in the area, including, ironically, the building of Council offices between the cathedral and the quays, has thoroughly modernised the area largely erasing its medieval past.
We look at a sculpture in the grounds of the cathedral called Homeless Jesus by the Canadian artist Tim Schmalz. It’s part of a larger artistic project that see’s similar homeless Jesus’s installed in North American cities. It is presumably designed to stir the conscience of people in a city where homelessness is a real problem.
We look at the ruins of the old Chapter house - there’s a new one now attached to the main body of the cathedral. But this space is now being used for bee keeping.
This place has a rich history. It was founded in and around 1028 under the Viking king Sitric Silkenbeard. This early church would have been a wooden construction as we know it was rebuilt in stone at the end of the 12th Century by Richard de Clare commonly known by his nickname Strongbow.
Once inside the cathedral we visit this tomb of the aforementioned Strongbow. In fact this effigy may be another Knight altogether since after a collapse of the cathedral’s south wall and arched stone roof in 1562 it is thought the original tomb may have been destroyed. But, if we look hard enough we can still see many existing traces of the medieval building.
The stained glass in the cathedral while based on medieval designs, dates from the 1870s. The glass in the baptistry depicts some of the Irish Saints. The beautiful baptismal font contains a piece of every type of marble found in Ireland.
Much rebuilding had to be done after this catastrophy and much of the original medieval building material was levelled and buried beneath a new floor
In the the 19th century, the Victorians carried out some of the most extensive rebuilding work; to the extent that it can be difficult now to know what fabric is genuinely medieval and what is Victorian pastiche. This is certainly all part of the Victorian gothic upgrade. But, the splendour of the exterior walls remain.
We think that buried under the impressive floor lies the medieval rubble of that earlier collapse. It would seem a shame to excavate such a beautiful floor, but you cant help but wonder what’s under it.
We make a visit to the 12th Century Crypt. This is the largest cathedral Crypt in Britain and Ireland and was constructed between 1172 and 1173.
Since its opening to the public in the early 2000’s after renovations, it really does have the feel of a tourist attraction with its ambient lighting and presentation. You can decide for yourself if this is to your taste, let me know in the comments what you think.
We see a wooden carving thought to be the oldest secular carving that exists in Ireland. It originally was hung outside Dublin’s Medieval city hall, alas demolished in 1806 - still at least we have the carving if not the building!
There’s also a display of costumes and a wooden changing room where it seems to encourage people to slip into some period clothes. I didn’t see anyone take advantage of this offer while I was there, but perhaps this is something that might interest you?
We look at the actual stocks that once stood in the yard outside the cathedral dating from around 1670. The Dean and Chapter of the cathedral could order anyone from the area of Christ Church into the stocks.
There's a gift shop too, such is that nature of the church in the modern world.
There are many old manuscripts on display here too including a copy of the Magna Carta. There is also a tabernacle and candle sticks last used in a service for Catholic King James II in 1690 when the Cathedral was “restored” as a Roman Catholic Cathedral. And, a royal plate given by King James’ nemesis King William of Orange in 1697 as a thanks for his victory over James at the Battle of the Boyne. These are landmark relics in Irish history.