I love my Norita 66, it’s around half the weight of the Pentax 67, entirely mechanical, and a joy to use. 100% my favourite camera in the world.

Man I really enjoy your videos. These are a nice touch to your channel, like you said, just putting out some info on the internet since you didn’t see much online. Also, super calming as well

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

I appreciate that!

Not a Rittreck, but my Mamiya/sekor was also produced in 1968. Got it when I was 15, it’s the only thing I’ve kept for all these years. Still works great.

Another great video Kyle... The focus error may be due to the mirror being a bit mis-placed due to the age of the camera. In Hasselblads, as the foam on the mirror ages, it slightly shifts the mirror location and it causes focus error. This may occur for the same reason on the Rittreck. So if you still see errors withthe magnifier, that could be the reason. Another reason may be that the focus screen is installed incorrectly (upside down, possibly) or isn't shimmed correctly. Basically, the spacing through the mirror to the focus screen frosted surface is off due to the screen being out of spec. One thing that can cause that is if a fresnel lens were added to the camera to brighten the corners after purchase, without recalibration. The shutter is probably dragging one of the curtains because the lubrication is old and gummy. If the front shutter is moving too slow, but the rear is the correct speed, it will cause the exposure to be off and it will be uneven as well, because the rear curtain will "catch up" to the front one slightly. How much this is apparent will vary depending on the exposure duration because on most shutter speeds (except right up at the top of the exposure range, where the exposures are the shortest) there is a subtle lag between the front and rear curtain releases to establish the proper total exposure for the film. Try exposures at the highest (shortest) shutter speed. You may find it is substantially worse up there, and if the front curtain is really slow, you may find that a portion of the frame doesn't get exposure at all because the rear curtain catches up with the front curtain. You can do this without film even, as it is probably visible while looking through the oopen rear of the camera at the light coming through the shutter, but using film will make it very apparent. With the large shutter on a 6x6, it doesn't move really fast anyway, so you should be able to see it easily.

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for this. Yeah, alot of the exposures were at 1/500 and 1/250. 1/500 is max on this camera, so sounds like that's what it could be. This one is getting sent out for service soon, so I'll be curious to see what they find.

Thanks for the test report Kyle. I have a fairly mint Norita 66 with that same lens, as well as the 55/4, regular prism as well as wait level finders, all in a custom aluminium case the original owner had fitted out for it. I bought it a while back but have not used it yet. A waste, I know. I must get out and shoot with it. I love the chrome finish of your Rittreck Revue version. I look forward to what you find out after getting things sorted out.

@KyleMcDougall

10 ай бұрын

Sounds like a nice setup! I can't believe how hard to find these cameras and lenses are. Not even much on ebay.

I have tried the Pentax 67, I do not like the handling of that style of medium cameras, I love the Hasselblad 2000 FC, my favorite Lenses are Zeiss Distagon 50mm 2.8, Zeiss Planar 110mm 2.0, Zeiss Tele Tessar 350mm 4.0 and the Zeiss Mutar 2x, the Haselblad are a joy to use !

This is funny timing, this weekend just passed I picked up a Norita 66, 80mm, 160mm, and 70mm leaf shutter lens for an incredible price. Glad I got in before your video went live and another 100k people know about it 😉

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Nice find! Yeah, the Norita is already very expensive. Cool you found a deal.

Very cool to learn about a camera I've never seen before. I had Arax do the refurb of my Kiev 6C and I highly recommend it. He did a great job and it's very usable now, with no frame issues. While I'd love a lens like that dreamy 80mm f/2, I like that I have access to the relatively cheap Pentacon lens system with the Kiev. I got a Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f/2.8 that's ENORMOUS and so amazing. Roughly equivalent to a 100mm f/1.5, it's a fun artistic choice.

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Glad to hear you've been happy with the Kiev. I was really tempted to send mine to Arax.

Kyle, I have used Orion Optics UK for my astronomy mirror resilvering and they did an exceptional job. Not sure if they would do the prism mirrors but they are worth asking if you don't have another option. Lovely find by the way.

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Thank you! I found a place called Vacuum Coatings here in England which is going to do it. Someone recommended them who have also had two of these prisms fixed.

@drwatsonismine

Жыл бұрын

I’m in USA. But thanks.

cool tool. Background to my eye looks a bit busier than the 105 but unique look to have for 6x6, for which there's always a place to switch things up.

cool find. surprisingly compact for a 6x6 too

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

It is, Brian. I was pleasantly surprised.

Yes, it’s a common problem with fast lenses, when you stop them down sometimes the focus shifts which is a pain but what do you do. Have a good day.

Interesting to see a camera I've never heard of with a lens that interesting. It really does have a nice look, but as every wide open MF shot, you really need to see clearly where critical focus is. So hopefully you can get it fixed cheap! Excited to see if there'll be more from this weird camera!

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Thanks. Looking forward to getting it fixed and then using the Pentax focuser and see how that helps.

@bryanotero123

Жыл бұрын

​@@KyleMcDougalllooks exactly like a Kiev60

@brettrogers8482

Жыл бұрын

@@KyleMcDougall The additional magnifier isn't a bad thing to have for the most exacting work (Eg very close range wide open). Can't hurt. That said the screen isn't at all bad when all parts cleaned, and if all is correctly calibrated nailing focus precisely should not be an issue unaided. Remember that, whilst the f/2 lens indeed has very slight depth of field wide open for focusing, subjects will also quickly pop in and out of focus for the same reason. You'll find some close range images made at larger apertures on Flickr. After checking and calibrating lens and screen to the film plane, all my images on film, to within around a metre working distance, were bang on where I'd set the focus screen. Granted I was working with a waist level finder, but the Rittreck prism is a very good one when in good repair, and nearly as easy to focus with.

Interesting tip: for anyone interested in pano photography, shooting 35mm in a 6x6 camera gives you an almost perfect 1:2.35 aspect ratio (24x56mm), a good alternative to the Hasselblad X-pan!

@dylanvanderjeught9883

7 ай бұрын

And how do you load and compose it in this camera for example ?

@maxrownes7914

7 ай бұрын

​@@dylanvanderjeught9883 An SLR is actually the best thing for this, as you would simply print out a mask, and place that in the viewfinder to get a pretty accurate representation of the shot on film. As for loading, i'd recommend a 35mm to 120 adapter, not one that respools into an empty 35mm canister, but a dedicated 120 spool. In a pinch if you have any 35mm canisters that are empty, rip that thing open and take out the 35mm plastic spool, place the 120 - 35mm adpater spacers on that and it'll work great. This obviously needs a dark changing bagf as opening the back will expose the film. You could probably look into putting backing paper on the film through bulk loading 35mm film. But thats only if you think this is something you want to do long term. Lot of information, apologies, a pretty weird proccess people don't like to do after a while. They usually backle and buy the Hallseblad Xpan to make their lives easier - but I do think the results are comparable, just requires some work of course.

80/2 on 6x6 is darn fast. Compared to other 6x6 gears like Hasselblad or Rolleiflex which only provide you 2.8. I know, bokeh isn't really my thing but sometimes... heck why not? Considering the Pentax 67 is a bit heavy, this one looks interesting. Hmmm...

It looks a bit like an ALPA Reflex. They were made in Switzerland, I believe.

Hello: Thank you for the review! Couple more SLRs with the same body configuration: Pentacon Six- well known especially because of huge lens variety. Exakta 66- modern looking, expensive, great lenses, the same mounting as Pentacon.

I also have cameras with that shutter issue. It happens when one curtains travels too slow or too fast so that the slit widens too much or not enough during its travel across the focal plane. its worse at fast shutter speeds because then the curtains are closer together. Thus that the incorrect slit width has a bigger effect.

@mihalis1010

7 ай бұрын

Shutter capping I believe is what it's called. I have a Minolta X300 that does it at anything over 1/60th speeds. At 1/1000th, it's almost completely black on one side. It can be fixed, but if the camera is cheap and/or obscure, it could cost more than the camera is worth to fix it.

That 80 makes beautiful black and white images. Think it is a thorium lens (someone correct me if I’m wrong) and I think that’s what makes it have this “dreamy” look.

@mjmdiver1137

Жыл бұрын

I don't know if it is a Thorium lens (I doubt it, but possibly), but the very slight swirly look when wide open is due to uncorrected sagittal astigmatism. This effect is much stronger in the Petzval lenses af years gone by, but it did continue to occur in higher speed lenses. Older Leica Summilux lenses (esperically the wider angle ones) show this effect as well. All older lenses had a certina amount of that.

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Very interesting. Thanks for that!

@sodapop9mm562

Жыл бұрын

@@mjmdiver1137 I was more meaning from the way the highlights render kind of dream like (really nice microcontrast). I’ve seen results like that in sumicrons with stained glass from the thorium. I don’t know though. I just mentioned it because some of the premium manufacturers in Japan during that time were using radioactive isotope containing glass. Now I want to try it with a geigercounter lol.

Always nice to see something a little different. Hope you can get it fixed up man, seems like a great camera.

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Fingers crossed!

now im craving for a 6x6 slr, it looks so light and compact! a nice alternative to my Pentax 6x7 when I want to change things up

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

It feels very nice in hand!

Wonderful video! Thanks for sharing.

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching!

Hi Kyle, if you are not convinced by the Kiev66, it is worth checking for the original. The kiev was build after the "Pentacon Six TL". These guys are worth a try, the price tag is still moderate the optics available are awesome.

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

I've eyeballed those many times! Tempting. :)

Very interesting camera and review as well. Maybe the lens is suffering from focus shift and that’s why the focus is off. You could do a test film with a descending focus jig like lens align and this would show you if there is a focus shift. My altimeter favourite camera was a Rollei SL66 and to own a 80 F2 would be a dream lens although they had a 120 F2 which was also a dream lens but really expensive. Thanks for sharing. Regards Gerry

@KyleMcDougall

3 ай бұрын

I recently had this serviced, and got it back and ran some more rolls through it, and I think you might be correct. I'm noticing what looks like front focusing, as it's off even when I'm using a magnifier.

Nice! Also thanks for introducing me to the name "shutter capping", my f1n has that issue on some shutter speeds but thankfully its doesn't affect the frames that much for me!

@brettrogers8482

Жыл бұрын

"Capping" in this context really relates to a malfunctioning shutter totally blocking exposure of parts of the negative. In late 19th century early 20th, shutters were often not "self capping". We take this for granted today. But the photographer would have to cap the front of the lens before cocking for the next exposure-the slit existed during drawing back for exposure not just during image formation. Hence the term "capping". Barnack's Leica shutters were successful, in part because they were "self capping". "Tapering" on the other hand reflects a reduction in exposure caused by the second curtain of a focal plane shutter gaining distance on the edge of the first curtain. As the slit width decreases across the film gate-so must the amount of exposure. As shorter times run tighter slits, tapering is inevitably becomes more problematic the shorter the set speed becomes, rather than less.

Kyle, I’d love to see how you have changed your exposure decisions since your Route 66 project and coming to the UK.

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Hey John, I'm still exposing very similar, just processing different.

@johnstarke7319

Жыл бұрын

@@KyleMcDougall oh! Well now I’m more intrigued :)

Really cool!!! Looks like a Japanese version of the Pentacon 6 by way of the Kiev 60 ... I would love to find one that I could afford!!!

Woah what a dreamy image it makes. Pricing ain't dreamy on eBay though 😃

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Pricing is not fun for these right now, hah!

The example I sorted may well not have been accurately assembled and calibrated by Musashino Kōki in the first place. One thing that was actually OK was the calibration of the focus screen to the film plane (you should check this) however the 80mm Rittron would visibly focus way past infinity before hitting its stop. I measured the error and had to make a shim a whole 0.25mm thick, to shift sharp infinity to the lens infinity stop. Possibly your focus screen has been removed and not correctly reinstalled. It is not hard to do that with one of these. The light sealing foam underneath the screen cover will in all likelihood be shot, too. The unevenness of exposure across the negative is caused by the curtains not running correctly. The virtually unused Six I attended to had exposure issues and I think the curtains were never accurately adjusted. Like yours it looks nearly mint; quite feasibly because it was not working terribly well out of the box and shelved. I fully serviced that example and corrected the maladjusted curtains, after which it began delivering consistently well exposed films. As the slit (gap between the curtain edges) is tightest at the highest speed (1/500), inconsistencies in curtain travel which will be undetectable at 1/60 or longer, will be apparent at 1/500. Possibly 1/250 & 1/125 also if the curtains are wonky enough. Overall I think the Rittreck is the better option. I needed to increase 2nd curtain tension somewhat (unusual) to even out exposure. I was concerned curtain bounce might result however this was not an issue. On the other hand Norita owners have cited issues with bounce on a number of occasions, some even bemoaning the absence altogether of the brake cam that was an original part of the Rittreck mechanism. Coupled with the fact only the Rittrecks have a mirror lock up (a deal breaker for me with a medium format SLR), the reasons to seek out a Rittreck, as opposed to a Norita, become only more compelling. You'll find some more detailed commentary about making one of these function correctly at Flickr under the Tasmania Film Photography account, by googling "Rittreck Six". Also a thread in the repair subforum of Rangefinder Forum (its several pages deep, from a couple of years ago). Terry will do a very good job of reconditioning your pentaprism. It'll just take 12-18 months (probably closer to the former, but the glass will clear, when it clears, he can't control that). He's a good bloke, so try not to pester him too much, he'll get it done but only when the chemistry has done its work can he prep and put it through the chamber. Cheers, Brett

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Thank you, Brett. Appreciate you sharing all of this. I contacted Brett and looks like I'll be sending this to him. Thanks again for the recommendation!

@brettrogers8482

Жыл бұрын

​@@KyleMcDougall You're welcome. Terry will look after you. He's not a camera technician, however so you will need to extract the pentaprism from its housing. But this is not complex. It seems Musashino Kōki used some sort of open cell foam to pack in between the prism and its securing bracket (a thin 90° metal band) and, if the example I attended to is anything to go, by this will have turned to dust. You'll want to give the interior of the prism housing a darned good blow out and wipe down with isopropyl, so that, when the reconditioned prism is re-fitted, your view is clean and dust-free. I really dislike open cell foam. It's never a question of if, but when it will crap out and in some instances (Eg Nikon F) is actually known to be detrimental to the integrity of a prism reflective coating. I also like to take the long view; replacement foam might last a few decades but, eventually it will need doing again-so why use it? (I won't, and generally tend to employ more traditional means of sealing a camera from light or dust such as black pure woollen yarn, felt or velvet. Old tech, but works, lasts, and won't disintegrate.) I painted some thin white cardboard, black (to prevent potential internal reflections) and used this to shim out any play between prism and bracket. It doesn't have the same degree of vibration absorption as foam, granted, but causes fewer long term problems. To be perfectly honest with you Kyle, I wasn't thrilled when a friend asked me to sort his Rittreck Six out for him. They're not so cheap any more-even a couple of years ago-and whilst owners rave about the lenses, the Rittreck/Norita bodies don't have a spotless reputation for reliability. For the investment required to use one today you might buy a perfectly good Hasselblad that will last and last. (I've got one.) Making one reliable sounded like a real trial. And for the first couple of days I had it apart, indeed, it nearly drove me round the bend. (Clearly, it had been thrown together-all components were present and accounted for, and in basically the correct places, but they'd not been adjusted to work reliably). But after much winding through of scrap rolls with covers removed, and all my fingers and thumbs pressing or lifting levers and pivots (to simulate a fully assembled Rittreck), I was eventually able to make it work correctly or malfunction at command, and could see where adjustments were required to obtain consistent operation. Musashino made life harder than it probably needed to be by setting the film counter components on the top left of the body (as held in use), and connecting them to the cocking and wind system at top right (adjacent the wind lever) via linkages going down the left side of the body, across the underside then up the right side. Along the way these connections have to interface correctly with both the counter reset lever in the top sealing slot for the back, *and* a roller rotated by the film/paper- otherwise odd things happen, such as no shutter cocking, no framing or no disengagement of the cocking after frame 12 (or 24). It's a real Goldilocks mechanism-everything has to be "just right" if correct operation is to be maintained. Strangely, the shutter was way off-rather than exposure reducing as the curtains traversed the gate (the usual state of affairs for a working camera that's done some service and needs attention) the reverse was happening. Ie. the first curtain was racing away from the second and massively overexposing the tail end of the gate at the shorter times. Slow speeds such as 1 second on the other hand were pretty good. With this in mind I was reluctant to decrease spring tension on the first curtain as this may have compromised accuracy at slow to medium speeds. It seemed logical to conclude that the basically brand new Rittreck had simply not been calibrated very well. Thus, I slightly increased spring tension to the second curtain until the first would only marginally increase the slit at 1/500 (as found it was 1/3 of the gate width in front of the second by the end of its run at 1/500. The idea is to balance the tension so the first curtain increases the slit across the gate. Curtains continue to accelerate as the expose a gate. If you adjust a slit to a genuinely constant distance from end to end-you'll have actually adjusted a degree of tapering exposure. (The curtains running faster at the tail end of the gate, a constant slit width for a shorter time must yield reduced exposure). (I used a CRT monitor to dial the Rittreck curtains in correctly-and years of experience). Most designs will "bake in" the requisite advantage to the first curtain via Eg very slightly larger diameter take up rollers, to encourage optimum exposure. Subsequent test rolls exposing frames at all shutter speeds confirmed exposure was very consistent across the negatives, even at 1/500. The 80mm Rittron f/2 lens-once shimmed to obtain the correct back focus, proved to be remarkably sharp. The biggest surprise, however (for me, at least) was how pleasant the Rittreck was to actually use. Despite my initial misgivings, I found myself really liking it! (Unfortunately, so does its owner, because whilst I would have been quite happy to keep it-he wanted it back!). The mirror lock up was tested thoroughly over three test rolls of black and white and gave no problems at all. I think it was a serious oversight by Norita to omit the feature from later production. Whether a MLU really makes a lot of difference to a 35mm SLR at typical magnifications used in general photography has been the topic of a lot of debate (for the record, if available, I like to have one fitted). A 6x6 SLR reflex mirror however is several magnitudes larger and heavier with a consequently much more injurious impact on sharpness (potentially). The MLU is reason enough in itself to persist in finding the original Rittreck instead of a more numerous Norita, in my view. (Naturally, if you only ever hand hold a camera this may be of little concern; I'm happy to set a tripod up if I think the image will benefit from it). Cheers, Brett

Hi Kyle. I actually got Kiev 6C recently inspired by your video and my example is perfect condition basically as new. I am careful with the winding and so far had no frame overlap. Also no problems with light leaks or other stuff. I even was able to calibrate exposure meter in the prism, so I have reliable readings now. Hit me up if you want a better version. I might be able to get one. Cheers. P.S. I paid for mine ~150 incl shipping

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Awesome! Glad to hear you've been happy with the Kiev. I don't think I'll buy another, but I did enjoy mine at the time (quirks and all).

Hat game, as always, on fleek. Great content too.

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

🙌

Whether from its original maker or the later version revised as the Norita, this was a very nice and quality camera, sort of a 6x6cm Pentax 67, if not quite as technically advanced. It had a complete line of quality lenses ready to go. The Japanese maker made the unhappy mistake of relying on a distribution deal with Graphlex for its distribution and support for US sales. By that time, it was Graphlex on life support, casting around for partnerships with Japanese makers to get inventory it no longer had the capital to develop for itself. Got to wonder what might have become of the Norita if its maker had partnered with Honeywell, with its prior, very profitable distribution and support deal with Canon. What if they had tied up a deal with Kodak, which had always wanted to cut into the pro-level, medium format camera market? Kodak still had the power and money to make things happen in the early 1970s. One wonders.

@comeradecoyote

Жыл бұрын

Honeywell was a very poor partner, and Pentax was very happy to ditch them when the contract expired.

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

I did read about poor marketing in the US and such. A shame, as you mentioned. Would have been interesting to see what could have been if things were done differently.

Great vid again mate - that lens is lovely. I wonder how it would render on medium format digital? Is it even possible to find a mount converter?

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Yep, I've seen people mount these to GFX before. Could be interesting.

I had two of the Norita 66s and that same Rittreck. Sent all three in for service and keh was only able to save one. The lenses are great but the bodies are crap. Had the same uneven exposure and inconsistent spacing before each body’s shutter jammed up

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Damn. Hoping I have better luck than that!

@lonerangefinder3974

Жыл бұрын

@@KyleMcDougalldm me if you need a prism. I have two extra that I don’t need. Both are the black paint Norita version but they’ll work on the Rittreck

I really love it ..

Would you consider doing a video on the Kowa Six system and its quirks? The lenses are fantastic!

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

If I could get my hands on one I would. But not in the market for that camera at the moment.

Ever tried the 80mm F1.9 on a Mamiya 645? Those are great as well!

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

I haven't, but have heard great things.

I wonder if the focusing issue is due to the finder glass not being calibrated or it being knocked out of alignment. Might be a good idea to get it fully serviced. Looks great and love the 80mm f2 look

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Could be. This will definitely be going for service!

Very interesting find. That Revue logo at the top indicates that this model was sold by German mail-order company Quelle.

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Oh wow, very interesting. Thanks for sharing that. I thought it was just part of the camera name.

I had some shutter issues that I was able to diagnose with the help of my iphone on slow-mo (240fps) taking a video of the shutter firing.

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Interesting idea. Maybe I'll try that.

Good camera! shutter spindle need lube. check at 1/500 to see it is fully open or not. Great video!

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Thanks. I'll give that a look.

cool camera! never heard of it and I've been collecting over 20 years

@andymillican1429

Жыл бұрын

Me too ! The price just went up eh ?

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

The price is already high. Definitely not going up!

How did you trigger the shutter remotely???

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Pneumatic release

Exacta 66 is one unusual of the sort.

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Ah yes!

That yellow tint of the glass shouts, old Thorium glass. You also have it in your Pentax 67 105mm F2.4. That swirly transition from sharp to out of focus ( I absolutely hate to use the word BOKEH or whatever the hell it is called ), is typical of fast lenses with Thorium glass.

@mjmdiver1137

Жыл бұрын

If you don't like the word bokeh, how about saying "out of focus rendering"? Or, you could just use bokeh, since it is more succinct.

Hi Kyle - thanks for reviewing this beautiful camera! Do you know if that lens has thoriated glass? It looked very yellow to me in a still frame in your video, curious if that adds a yellow filter to the lens (favorable IMO).

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

I'm not sure if it is or not. A few people have mentioned that it might be.

Super easy fix for the exposure issue. Not to worry. Enjoy!

Where do you get it serviced?

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

I'm currently waiting to hear back from a place in Amsterdam. I've found someone to fix the prism here in the UK.

you should try the Pentacon 6/Kiev 60 with the 35KP-140 140mm f1.8 to do your self-portrait ;)

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

I feel like I would definitely miss focus with that! 😅

Looks like an oversized Topcon Kokagu

Do you know a good company for fixing analog cameras in general? I may have to get a service for an RB67 back. 😐

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Where are you located?

@ChrisCore93

Жыл бұрын

@@KyleMcDougall Germany

Hlw 😊,What camera are you using to make this videos??

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Fuji X-H2s

So you can’t just take the prism off and focus by looking at the glass underneath? I never had a camera with a removable prism before.

@Dipsoid

Жыл бұрын

You can, but in the sunlight it makes it very hard to see the focusing screen without a waist level finder. I've done this with my Pentax LX since the WLF for that camera is stupid expensive but it's not ideal.

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Yep, as mentioned, you could, but would be a bit awkward. Definitely not a long-term solution.

Looks a little more compact than the Kiev eh, that is quite an impressive feat!

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Yep. Seems like the mirror box is a bit smaller. Definitely a noticeable difference.

@ChrisVidouras

Жыл бұрын

@KyleMcDougall the prism looks similar to the one on the Kiev 88. Might be worth a close look before resilvering.

There's a current Ebay listing for this camera for part only $4999.

@KyleMcDougall

11 ай бұрын

Yeah, I saw that. Have no idea where people get these prices!

Only the Mamiya 645 has a faster lens than this 80mm f/2. You can get an 80mm f/1.9 for the Mamiya. However, I doubt there's any real-world difference in speed between an f/1.9 and f/2 lens. And the Mamiya shoot 6x4.5, of course, so it'll be a smaller frame than the Rittreck, so it's basically going to be equal in terms of DOF for either lens. Wide open, each lens has the same approximate DOF as an f/1.2 or f/1.1 lens in 35mm. So very shallow.

Maybe Pentacon Six is better to maintain.

WHALLOP

If you should get it fixed for one simple reason - you're running out of options on where to get it fixed

And now they are out of price.

@KyleMcDougall

Жыл бұрын

Already out of price.