The delete entails sealing off the Rotor cooling path within the manifold. The flyover tube you are showing is on all motors new and old and stays on the coolant delete part too since it moves coolant from the manifold to the top of the gearbox as in the original.

@NZCUTR

Ай бұрын

Agreed -- this was a misunderstanding from the original picture source that I repeated. The part number is the most reliable way to ascertain updated drive units.

Great information. Thank you.

Agree thanks I have come to the same conclusion .

Thanks for this video too?

I had my drive unit replaced under warranty in November of 2021, they did not install the Updated drive unit as it "wasn't available at the time". Now i'm worried my drive unit is a ticking time bomb.

So does the non performance motor have more reliability? I HAVE a 2014 model a 60 and it seems to be running great at 130k miles.

@NZCUTR

3 ай бұрын

Anecdotally it seems to have less OTHER problems, but the seal issue is what it is. If you have a large rear drive unit (performance or not) it's going to have this coolant seal issue-- and I'm pretty sure the 70 or 75 was the first RWD only version to have the smaller rear motor (which is very reliable). That said, the performance versions are known to eventually crack the motor/drive unit mounts on the rear subframe, which is a significant cost replacement as well. I don't think the early regular 85/60 versions "shock" the rear mounting tabs hard enough to cause widespread cracking. The performance ones can rip them right off eventually (usually identified by loud knocking sounds and/or yawing under acceleration/braking).

This is incorrect about the information on the tube that goes from the manifold to the gear housing, my 2015 model S has the original problem rear motor and it too has the same tube. The actual difference is the water tube that goes from the manifold into the stator on the old design, this is deleted on the U design so coolant now does not enter the stator section where the seal fails and coolant enters the motor, gear box and inverter. I have already modified my model S with the coolant delete and it runs well.

@NZCUTR

2 күн бұрын

Correct-- I addressed this in an earlier comment: "this was a misunderstanding from the original picture source that I repeated. The part number is the most reliable way to ascertain updated drive units." There are a number of low cost ways coming onto market now to DIY a coolant delete. I've not yet seen a truly/easily done DIY-- but if you have a local mechanic with the right lift/tools and desire, this would be a good project to undertake. For shadetrees like me, the lift is the hardest part-- and I don't have a way to get the rear end comfortably and safely skyward enough that I could shimmy under it as necessary to DIY.

I could read any of your screen shots or part numbers.

@NZCUTR

Ай бұрын

Glare and autofocus are a problem-- but if you watch on a desktop computer and freeze frame, they're all visible.

I have a 2019 P100D. It’s making the windmilling noise. What causes that ?

@NZCUTR

5 ай бұрын

Could be bearings? Could be differential? Could by the axles? There's a number of other non-drive-unit parts that can fail/wear out. While it *may* be true that EVs require less maintenence, I think the jury is still out on whether they require less REPAIRS. The high torque of a performance's DU is obviously going to accelerate wear just like any other high performance car.

@PKerusso

5 ай бұрын

@@NZCUTR it’s in for a new RDU. Tesla tech said they just “ wear out”. Well it only has 42,000 miles😳

@NZCUTR

5 ай бұрын

Uncommon... but I suppose anything is possible. Make sure you get a U revision! :)

@pIrkezzz

4 ай бұрын

Electrical discharge inside the inverter. Does not affect your car and will not ever affect function. If you dont mind the noise just keep drive it, if still in warranty just fo and replace it at Tesla

@NZCUTR

4 ай бұрын

Interesting... I think discharge/arcing was also the explanation behind the "balloon noise" when accelerating (esp. when cold) but that it was associated with the main pack contactors. Though my understanding was the noise indicated contactor wear and was to be avoided (lighten up the lead foot!)

My one year old 2014 model A 85 just took a shit. With only 60k miles. My question is, is it worth it to fix it. Tesla wants 9k. Also upside down on car loan.

@NZCUTR

2 ай бұрын

All depends on your use-case, what broke, what your resources are. The trouble with Tesla repairs is that it's basically all cash business. Loan complicates every car decision (I have never had a car loan for this reason and bought only what I had cash on hand for), but a broken car isn't particularly useful either.

EVs throw away vehicles and that's saving the planet Apparently but i fail to understand how

@NZCUTR

Ай бұрын

No argument from me-- the amount of waste I've seen from other Tesla owners is staggering, but the real question I usually put out there (and maybe will do a video on later) is whether or not EVs enable an unsustainable lifestyle. I think they do-- for most people-- and that's because, at least here in the US, the alternative and TRUE "planet saving" move would be to live closer to work... which no one wants to do.