This actually is the first time I bought an item while watching your video about it :-). Thanks Julian, you are really digging the interesting stuff!

i love how nicely and smoothly u explain and break down ur approach :D i get to learn a lot

I've had this D3806 for a long while. I use it regularly. Never knew it had a power and charge meter though! Thanks as ever Julian. Great insight.

Another great presentation. I watched about 2 1/2 hours after posting and you already had nearly 20 commentators. Not sure I could come up with a better measure of success for a You Tube channel. Well done you!

Damn you, Julian! Now I have to order this one too. You are the best salesperson of MingHe Corporation, I must say :)

I never knew about the options you can access by holding the 'OK' button, it works with a smaller Ming He 3A buck version that ive got.. these little PSUs are so versatile!

I don't know what i love more, your videos or power converters :) I bought one after i saw this review hehe. To other D3806 users, DO NOT LEAVE LOAD CONNECTED TO CONVERTER WHEN YOU DISCONNECT POWER, it will send voltage spike to output and fry load. I plan to add few components to pull FB pin of buck section to GND when power is disconnected to avoid voltage spikes on output.

@_Chris_

6 жыл бұрын

I wish I read you comment before, I fried an Orange Pi PC in this way.

@steve6375

4 жыл бұрын

Mine gives a large high current 5V-10V spike/surge when DC input is first connected (even when output is configured to be off on startup). Also spikes when DC input disconnected. Anyone have a fix (apart from using a large 10A toggle switch on the DC output and having to remember to always use it when powering low voltage devices)?

Great stuff Julian. I was fascinated by your demo of the buck/boost unit. I wish they had been out a few years ago while I had still been serving in the Royal Signals. I could have carried a magicians wand round with me and baffled the gunners, infantry and tankies more than I use to do with electronic tricks. "Now for my next trick". I use to use a small fluorescent tube and put it near to the antenna base of my HF radio. With a remote CW key (ptt) to switch the TX on I would demonstrate why it was not very safe to walk close to my vehicle whilst I was sending messages etc., and other such daft tricks. On the serious side these would have been very handy for power for all kinds of things taken from 24/30 volts of the radio supply. They would have saved me one hell of a lot of time making up boosted, zener regulated units for "Phillips" battery shavers, Transistor radios and later battery operated portable TV's etc.

A word of caution about the D3806, don't undervolt the input. I got one after this video and was using it to discharge a 7p3s lithium ion pack by transferring the energy to a 20s NiMH pack. When they say 10v minimum input they aren't kidding, once the voltage sagged below 10 the boost converter section went nuts and overvolted the intermediate bus which blew the buck converter chip.

@speedsterh

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the advice !

perfect timing on this vid, Ive got one of these units waiting at the post office parcels place for me to collect. cant wait for saturday so I can grab it and have a play

Best peace of converter I ever bought for such a price! Off is really off and the display auto off/on programmability - just awesome!

I bought one of these and I do not regret it at all. This is a great power supply, and I'm currently powering it with a 7.4V 1500 mAh LiPo with balance low voltage cutoff to avoid over discharge. Since it senses cell balance, it can cut power when either cell reaches 3 volts. Works wonders, I will be using it to power projects and prototypes. I'm also using those same terminal to barrel jack thingys, both male and female.

another great video Julian, between you and big Clive I've learned a lot and much better than the TV.

@JulianIlett

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks. KZread IS the TV!!

@speedsterh

4 жыл бұрын

@@JulianIlett KZread is what the TV should be !

Renxula thanks for the info,it's great when someone takes the time to help someone

Really interesting video, I purchased one of these about a year ago on a whim of rebuilding my bench PSU but never got around to it, totally forgot about it till I found it this evening as I was going through some bags of 'bits', it was still boxed and wrapped!. I'm not worried about 80%, pfft!... Hmmmm, me thinks I'll be building this into a new bench PSU when I've finished having a tidy up!...

I'd be interested in seeing the output using an oscilloscope as I imagine that going through the boost - buck process is likely to add a fair amount of ripple. You can remove the clear plastic film over the LED display to improve contrast and reduce reflection.

In case anyone is interested, I downloaded the user manual for this converter and used google to translate it to English. (Note that in the manual it states it can only do 5A in natural cooling.) Orginal - drive.google.com/open?id=0B7w1odapcBUhUmlKVWZkbm1uLXc Translated - drive.google.com/open?id=0B7w1odapcBUhdDJtTFZ5LXV6Mmc Side note, just so you know, I did the bare minimum required to make it more legible such as adding tables, so I have added very few corrections on spelling/grammar mistakes.

@JulianIlett

7 жыл бұрын

Excellent, very helpful - thanks.

@vgamesx1

7 жыл бұрын

Julian Ilett Glad to help out.

I got one of these a couple of weeks ago and has been great so far - Also, I just tested the intermediate voltage and mines showing 18.4v, which makes sense as I'm using a laptop power supply to power it rated at 18.5v.

My motto is 'you can never have too many sources of power on your workbench.' So based on that I have ordered one of these as I have hacked an old ATX power supply to give me 12V on my bench and this will make the perfect front end for it. I had intended to build a PSU based on GreatScott's video using the LTC3780 board (I've collected most of the parts but a suitable enclosure for the project still eludes me) but this will make a much neater option.

By the way that "minimum voltage" that you saw when the output was off, is your input voltage minus little drop across the choke and diode.

@JulianIlett

7 жыл бұрын

Yeah, that only dawned on me when I was editing the video

@mrjohhhnnnyyy5797

7 жыл бұрын

Julian Ilett Yup, it's easy to mess up when you are filming the video :)

@Burgduino

6 жыл бұрын

I got one of those about a week ago to make a proof of concept setup for a PC UPS with li-ion batteries inside an old PC PSU with optional external battery packs that will also supply the monitor (19V input) and the modem/router). Anyway, I decided to get a D3806 so once i test my setup i can them replace it with a simpler more permanent converter and use D3806 as a bech PSU... At first all was excellent and worked like a charm.... i did some more tests last night, again, no problems.... today tried to use it to charge some LI-Ion cells on a BT-C3100 charger... As Power supply i used a 12,6V 3S/3P Li-Ion pack which i wanted to discharge anyway so, 12V/3A set, i connect the charger and before i even activate the output.. It started working.... i did some tests and voltage measurements and i found out that the Input went straight to the output... I was lucky i used a 12,6V input which was fine for the charger i powered. But i also noticed that Vin went straight to Vout no matter what Vin would be or the module being turnded on or off.... lowering the Vout setting made no change... funny though, increasing Vout above Vin made no change with the module turned off, it gave about 4V over Vin with module turned on.... I am trying to figure this out with the aliexpress seller and will probably post a video sometime soon..... what is pissing me off though, besides the failure of this much expected module is that i do have another, D3603 a much simpler back only module.... I used it extensively as bench psu and battery charger for months now... today i noticed it starts limiting the output but.... I power it with a 15V laptop brick, output is set to 12V current is set to 2A yet, CC limiter kicks in even at 1A draw...... Ok, some will say "you get what you pay" others "shit happens" but... two MingHe modules failing the same day??

@Burgduino

6 жыл бұрын

kzread.info/dash/bejne/aJyZmaWqY9vgeco.html this is the problem with my D3806

Nice work Julian

DAMN I love your videos. I am so happy that I am leaving for Arizona next month, and I don't have time for one of those to reach me here in South Dakota, otherwise I would have one in my arsanal of power supplies.

@JulianIlett

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks Jerry :)

As always, another great video. But please, can you make more videos about pic programming, rgb led strips with controller in each LED and solar charging etc.? You are one of my favouritests youtuber which are into electronics. I am 14 and I am from Czech republic and because of you now i knew more words than my english teacher. Thank you a lot, keep rolling!

@JulianIlett

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks Marek. Actually, I'm planning to use a PIC to control WS2812 addressable RGB LED strips. So after a few PIC programming tutorials, I'll bring in the RGB LED strips. Cheers :)

@marekcoufal570

7 жыл бұрын

Julian Ilett oh mean! I am looking forward for it!

@speedsterh

4 жыл бұрын

Great story, thanks for sharing

Hi Julian, first thanks awesome videos. Just want to ask what boost buck converter you recommanded now a days. I just building quite simple adjustable power supply with voltage and current adjustment. Inside my diy powersupply case is old atx pc power supply what can handle 30A current on 12voltage line. This video module is ok with all specs, but can you recommemnded something better now a days, or do i just buy this module.

if I want to use a led driver with led specifications 24V - 2.4A or 12V - 4.8A and 15V - 4A for use on motorcycles with input voltage 10V - 18V it is recommended to use D3806 buck boost or LTC3780 buck boost?

I've had this one for months, works brilliantly only issue with it is after a drop it seems to pulse the output when I give it power even though its set to Off at boot. The pulse is only tiny but could possibly kill some low-power device if I forgot to detach it before plugging the unit it :(

the output precision is good? I wanna use solar input to sharge 18650 and they don't like more than 4.2VDC each. solar pannel around max 20VDC 5A to 7s 18650's with max 28VDC to get more cycles life. efficiency is not a problem here because I have sun all the year.

@englishrupe01

4 жыл бұрын

Yes the output precision is very good. I have 5 now and they work perfectly!

Do you think this can endure 40-41v? Thinking of using this as a solar charge controller

I was trying to find the model number so I could calibrat mine and couldn't be bothered to pick mine up yet and I found it and it's better but at some point the read out has just been off by like 2 v but it's still around right like if I'm trying to charge a lithium battery and have it set to like 4.1v that's about where it would go but it would read like 6 or 7 volts it might be time to look at a new one and there are some nice looking ones out these days

I just started getting into these for driving single cob leds. I am under the impression that the amps are really what dictates what these boost/bucks can do? Is this logic correct? 100w 27v cob, 14.8v battery (idx 198) and a 3505 (35v5amp) I assume that because it would take 6.6amp on the IN side that I've already exceeded the converter's 5amp capacity? Even if the OUT is 3.7a at 27v?

Solar chargers tend to need feedback from a battery before supplying an output voltage. I have a 24v (2ea 12v batteries in series) battery bank that I wish to charge using a 12v Solar panel source. any ideas if this Boost converter will work to charge a 24v system?

thanks for this video but since this is now old, is there anything newer to this (new version)?

Excellent! I'm going to use something like this to use a constant 12v to LED grow lights and fans, using my two 80w solar panels. I only just found out that I can power things through the day without using the battery. Hmmmmmm *scratches chin*

Does Ming He have more than one product with the same Model # of D3806, with one being a Boost/Buck and the other being a Buck only regulator? I've seen D3806,s for sale that appear to have identical board layout but are listed differently as Boost/Buck or Buck only/ Any help would be appreciated.

nice unit, could you or how would you connect 2 or 3 in series to get a higher voltage, like 100 volts

So I have now killed 3 power converters lol. So I thought I would get this one. I like the way it is setup and with any luck the one I get will be close enough to the real one or better yet the real deal and it will give me better service. The last one I blew up was based on the XL4016 chip did great work for a month even with some abuse on my part. Went to connect a Volt/Amp meter and just stopped working. I know it was connected right because I connected it to another unit with wires connected same way seeing they were soldered together and it worked just fine on that one. I bought it from a person you seem to get a lot of Post bag items from so I felt it maybe safe to order from her/him as you even have said not sure. I think it is just a name with many people working the system.

Any chance you could put your 'proper' multi-meter across the terminals of your 'LED Voltmeter'? It would be great to know how accurate it is. Thanks.

Does this PSU use a MCU? Perhaps the STM32? If it does, does it include the 4-pin SWD programming connector?

hey.. thx for video.. i have problem and searching for help.. my d3806's out is always open and it is not working as buck module anymore it is only boosting.. what could be caused by?

Hello, I got one of these but mine got damaged during the shipping. Toroidal core of the inductor on the buck converter is shattered in pieces(right one). Can you please help me find out what are the characteristics of that inductor? I want to change it and I have some salvaged inductors, but how can I find the suitable one If I cannot measure the original one, because of the shattered toroidal core and following changed characteristics? Please advice. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for tutorial.

I gotta admit - I too have a huge fascination with these voltage converter devices - tho I am not entirely sure why - laugh !!!

38V*6A=228W? This thing is 228W at max? If you put them in parallel would they increase their efficiency (because when you put stuff in parallel they decrease their resistance) and increase their rated power to more than 228W?

help.i burnt the 5 pin buck thing in my cheap 24vdc to 12vdc step down converter. they had removed the numbers on it.any idea where i can get one?

Excellent video my friend!!! but isn´t the LTC3780 module much better?

@JulianIlett

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks amigo! Yeah, LTC3780 is much more efficient. I'd love to see Ming He design a digitally controlled PSU using that chip :)

@JulianIlett

7 жыл бұрын

Digitally control it with digital potentiometers. But you also have to monitor it feeding voltage and current data back to the display. It's difficult!

@maxhijacker

7 жыл бұрын

Julian Ilett You can use op amp and dac, comparing dac value and resistor divider value from output, out of amp must be connected to feedback of converter

@luongmaihunggia

6 жыл бұрын

LTC3780 is more efficient but this one is rated for higher power?

I'm sure you caught this already, but the intermediate voltage stops at ~13 volts because the boost converter can't lower voltage (of course). Whatever the input voltage is will be the intermediate voltage, as long as you are using a lower output.

I saw the RxD and TxD pins. Does anyone know, if the parameters are programmable via UART?

Big thanks for this video..

i wonder how much more efficient it would be to bypass the shunt resistors and just use as a voltage boost/buck negating amperage

Love the channel and I am learning a lot from you. Thanks. Quick question: . I will be utilizing one of these off of a 12 volt power source. I have the 12 volt power source fused protected but whenever I energize the 12 volt supply into Vin of the converter it will pop any fuse that I have. There appears to be a momentary short between Vin+ and Vin- until the circuit energizes. Any ideas?

@steve6375

4 жыл бұрын

On power up, the output is turned on for less than 1 second and this is at high current. On mine I get 10V spike\surge on power up. Bad design! rmprepusb.blogspot.com/2019/11/is-d3806-boostbuck-dc-dc-power-supply.html See other comments from other people who have blown up their circuits due to power on or power off surges like this.

just ordered one of these units to go with the bst900

If you dont boost the middle voltage is probably the input minus the diode voltage ;)

At about timestamp you start a very interesting subject...The XL4016 is rated at 8A, but the board only 6A--also you mention that probably it is because the heatsink would have to be larger for 8A. SO...could the heatsink be replaced with a larger one (or maybe cooled by making use of that fan plug! Well, another question is will the digital aspects of the board support the 0-8A range?

how many electrons are in 1 amp? and how fast is an electron at 1 volt?

0:05 and I enjoy your vids. If somebody doesn't like it, they should just go search smth they like, it's damn awful to see people complaining in the comments. KZread gives them an opportunity to find a content they like, but instead, they rant in the comments.

@eecatblog7377

7 жыл бұрын

"but instead, they rant in the comments." Hmm... Kind of like what you're doing right now perhaps? If somebody doesn't like reading rants in the youtube comments then they should just move on to the next comment and find ones they do like, it's damn awful to see people complaining about other people complaining in the comments. KZread gives them the opportunity to find comments they like but instead choose to rant about other comments. Have you gotten the point yet? They have every right to complain about something just as much as you have the right to complain about them, which by the way if you weren't aware there IS a difference between a worthless complaint (this sucks) and valid criticism (I think this could be better if____).

@mrjohhhnnnyyy5797

7 жыл бұрын

EECatblog So you are complaining about me complaining about other people complaining :) Maybe I wasn't clear enough in the original comment, I wanted to say that if somebody has a channel where he uploads what HE (or she) likes, it's kinda pointless to bitch about the content. Constructive criticism is for sure the GOOD thing, but there will inevitably be smb yapping "this sucks". Hope it's clear now. Because I like this channel for it is now, and I'll be sad seeing it change because of the POINTLESS complaints.

@SpeccyMan

7 жыл бұрын

Julian has enough followers that make me think it is unlikely he would change his way of doing things. I enjoy all his content even when it is on aspects of electronics that don't particularly interest me (I have no garden so solar power is not something I can have, much as I would like it.) It is all about his relaxed and often humorous presentation and the fact he shares my fascination with dc-dc converters. :D

@mrjohhhnnnyyy5797

7 жыл бұрын

I like that too. I don't have a solar setup, yet sometimes I find those vids very interesting.

@BustersCNCchannel

7 жыл бұрын

if somebody is going to give a thumbs down then they should give a reason for it. keep up the good work, funny how it seems we are both going down the same track and buying banggood stuff to play with

Wont it be only using one of the circuits at a time boost or drop??

it would be cool of they could install a relay or something i guess mosfet would be good but to switch between boost and buck if it needed more it could boost straight to the output and just buck if you needed lower but you would probably loose a couple of volts near your input voltage

t is most likely SEPIC (single ended primary inductor converter), It starts with a Boost stage, then decoupling capacitor, then a diode to output and second inductor to GND. The two inductors could be on the same core. SEPIC topology is driven by Boost driver (low side switch). You appear to have two switches. Had it been 4 it could have been a real 4 switch Buck-Boost.

What does the Rx input on the display do?

I bought a couple of converters, because of you, and your videos, where do you buy those adapters you use to plug into your converters, and what does buck mean, I have one now just don't no that word buck

@renxula

7 жыл бұрын

Buck means to lower, somehow.

SOLD need a couple of these...

Is there a listing of all the button functions? thx

I like to use my 18 Volt Li-on batteries for my old Bosch 14,4 V screwdriver. Is it possible to use a buck converter. Do anyone know wat the maximum current is in the motor?

Does the 12-13V after the boost match your solar supply in?

@JulianIlett

7 жыл бұрын

Yes. That didn't really occur to me while filming this video. Had I fed the minimum input voltage of 10V into this device, the 'after boost' voltage would probably drop to about 9.5V - that's 10V minus the diode drop.

excellent video thanks

I watched this video and had to get me one. Unfortunately the second time I tried to use it, I was trying to float charge a bike battery with CV set at 14v with CC set to 1 amp from a car battery. Everything was wired correctly and I am still not sure what happened but I let the magic smoke out. Has anyone come across a circuit diagram, I really would like to have a go at repairing It. Thanks for your very interesting videos Julian!

Julian, you mentioned efficiency quite a bit here. So I would have liked you to actually measure/calculate it. (BTW the DS for the buck chip did say "up to 96%", so may have been better than 80% overall)

How many buck converts do you own?

What kind of isolation does it have between input and output? Is the negative connected straight through except for the current sense resistor?

@JulianIlett

7 жыл бұрын

Yes, the negative passes straight through (with just the output current sense resistor inline). Most of these DC/DC converters are non-isolated.

god bless buck converters !!!!!!!

Thank you sharing.

I wonder is it possible to make such converter with an Arduino...

Could you use a Buck Boost Converter in place of a solar charge controller? I have a 100 watt solar panel hooked to a 12v deep cycle lead acid battery. My charge controller now has a linear voltage converter and it cuts off charging at 14.2 v. I would like it to stop charging when it hits 15.1 v. Any suggestions?

@danielthechskid

7 жыл бұрын

mppforall No. Solar needs a converter that regulates based on the input not just on the output. At minimum you need it to regulate at the maximum power point voltage of the panel, but since this changes with the panel temperature you ideally want a true MPPT unit. Also be careful about overvolting lead-acid. At the very least you will electrolyze away the water in the electrolyte, possibly cause positive plate grid corrosion, and at worst send the battery into thermal runaway.

Hi, thanks great video, I have a question you suggestion would be great, I have, Solar panel open-circuit Voltage: 40V Battery 12 V (AGM Controller : PWM controller max input voltage 28V Can I use D3806 to step down from 40V to 25V and connect to solar charge controller to charge the battery? Will I lose energy in this converter in step down mode? Or the module will convert in to Amps from Voltage while step down? Thanks ,

@JulianIlett

5 жыл бұрын

Not a good idea

cool, let's continue !!!!

Think I would have left the power meter installed, what the heck... Also a top to pull that power might be nice, be able to use both the boost power and the buck power at the same time for different devices????? No porbably drive the little controller chip nuts adjusting for amp and voltage fluxuation.

The most interesting part is that there is a TX and RX pins on the controller .... that means that Devices mcu must be programmable/controllable from a uart !!! If only someone placed the specs to control the thing with a external mcu (arduino/D1 mini etc) ... that would be a Wonderful way to have a very nice power supply that could be controlled from almost everything anywhere.

IF 80% is TRUE then it is pretty damn good. even though it has two stages. thats an average of 89.4% for each stage!!! thanks for sharing. you did a good test. I subscribed and "Liked".

how about your Microduinos? i almost can wait to see more about ´em :) love your videos - thanks for sharing :)

@JulianIlett

7 жыл бұрын

I'll get back to that when I'm in the mood for some programming :)

I wonder why they aren't just switching the switching of the first stage off and leave it on the input voltage when in buck only mode and the other way 'round when in boost mode. Would raise the efficiency quite a bit. But it would have been even better if the'd just short the input directly to the input of the buck regulator when in buck only mode with a MOSFET.

@putteification

7 жыл бұрын

Transient response perhaps.

I think you are a bit harsh calling it inefficient. Remember, this is a two-stage converter. Given that, 80% is pretty good in my book.

that is a very nice video!!!!!

This thing also has a Serial conneciton, maybe You can make a video about Hacking this thing? Maybe You can control the output voltage and current via pc. Would be awesome if that would work

How stable are the currents in something like this? What is a good way to test that? I want to buy one of these to put in my car for powering a laptop. one of two, a 12 volt eee pc that uses 3 Amps and a 19.5 volt Dell that uses 4.64 amps. but I worry about how unstable the voltage is in an automobile is. Edit: One at a time but I want to be able to use both laptops at various times.

@danielthechskid

7 жыл бұрын

Jessica Myer I would not use this in a car unless it will be disconnected from power while cranking. See my previous comment about it going unstable with an input voltage under 10v which will happen every time a vehicle with a conventional 12v starter motor is cranked. In a BEV or HEV that doesn't crank the engine with a 12v starter it should be just fine. Also there are already buck-boost converters designed for exactly this, I have an HP branded one that was for the HP/Compaq TC1100 tablet.

Nice idea

I think you should have a 3 stage review process for power supplies, introductory post bag type then a video similar to this showing a unique thing about it then scope time! Showing efficiency accuracy and regulation ripple. Anyway I love your videos I just think a little more structure would be nice

@JulianIlett

7 жыл бұрын

I'm planning to scope a number of these things in one video. Problem is my scope doesn't video well - the screen is very reflective :(

@michaeltempsch5282

7 жыл бұрын

Maybe a matte screen protector could help? I find they do wonders to cut down on reflections on phones, as well as not show fingerprints as much as shiny glass or protectors do.

@SuperBrainAK

7 жыл бұрын

awesome cant wait to see! hey seeing a semi bad scope video is better than having no clue at all!

can u help me design 100v p channel mosfet switch

I want to make a grid tie exercise bike using this converter before the inverter itself.

Thanks

you are a teacher

What application is this used for

@englishrupe01

4 жыл бұрын

Only limited by your imagination!

I've this very model and had to replace the mosfet on it twice now as it failed and ended up causing a short heating the tracks up on the back so had to repair them too. When it's working it's excellent though. Should add it was the mosfet in the boost part of the circuit that blew a few times. Oh and the closer to 10v you get as an input the noisier it gets :-)

@JulianIlett

7 жыл бұрын

Did you drive anywhere near it's maximum ratings? They're always way too optimistic!

@Chickey

7 жыл бұрын

No was way off the limit, sure it was just 18v i was outputting. I'm guessing I made a mistake and shorted something accidentally though. I ended up buying 10 spare mosfets for any further such accidents fr.aliexpress.com/item/SSF7509-80A-TO-220/32216810192.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.8YyRVl I could have swore you had one of these as i thought i bought it after seeing one of your videos, it must have been another ming he converter.

@JulianIlett

7 жыл бұрын

You may be right - I seem to have two now!

@Chickey

7 жыл бұрын

I've reached that point as well but more with smaller stuff, buy them in and go to put away and find identical ones there lol. Really enjoy your videos, would love a series on doing a mppt controller, i know you had a series last time but was a tad hard to follow and i don't think it was complete in the end.

@vgamesx1

7 жыл бұрын

What about current? Did you drive it over 5A? Because the manual says it needs added cooling for anything over that, although I personally probably wouldn't take it much higher than 4.5A without a fan, but yeah agree with simontay if it's a recurring issue I suggested a bigger mosfet and/or heatsink rather than replacing it every failure.

Wonder if that would run my mobile Ham radio here in the house? OH well, that would be a great reason for ordering it were we going to be here long enough....

I´d think, the boost-stage just simply doesn´t drive the FET, if the Output is turned off. So the intermediate Voltage is just the input-voltage minus the losses in the components.

@JulianIlett

7 жыл бұрын

Yep, that seems plausible.

You boost doesn't kick in till your past your input. that's clever.

DC to DC BuckBoosters obviously will boost up volts and buck volts. But what seems to be rarely mentioned is what else is being effected? I'm guessing it's the amps? Am I currency?

@eecatblog7377

7 жыл бұрын

I'm not really sure what you mean but yes, you are currency.

@adventureinlife7700

7 жыл бұрын

EECatblog just meaning to say that so far it seems that when DC to DC BuckBoosters are explained in videos usually nothing or not much is said about what you are losing or gaining with the colts are being boosted or bucked. Thank for the reply. So as volts get boosted amps get bucked. And of course as volts get bucked amps get boosted. Which means that there are applications out there that need high volts but low amps and vice versa.

@eecatblog7377

7 жыл бұрын

Adventureinlife Uhh, that isn't quite how it works... You see it all depends on your load, if you have a 10W LED for example then it will only ever draw a max of 10W basically 0.083A at 120V or 0.042A at 240V so either way you're drawing 10W of power (assuming 100% efficiency). However, something resistive such as a heater or a motor the more volts you give it the more current it can draw, so for example a US 1500W hair dryer if it didn't have any sort of transformer would use double that power (3000W) in a country with 240V mains.

@adventureinlife7700

7 жыл бұрын

Ah... I see. Now it makes sense. Too bad we have yet to figure out Superconducting components at room temperature. That would probably be the only way we could actually hit 100% efficiency. Which thanks to you helping me understand this I can see how the decision as to what buck/booster to pick heavily comes down to how efficient it is.

I got this unit myself (what a great find Julian). Two things are rather a mystery to me still. 1) when in advanced mode (flag "1" set to Y) there is an additional, non permanently saved setting called Lo, followed by SA. They seem to be the same setting: if you change one, the other changes too. I suspect it is a minimum current percentage. If the load goes under that, it will switch off, but I am still testing if this is true. Would be very useful for charging Lithium cells. 2) when booting while holding SET, it goes into a a weird mode displaying -F1-. Very stange things happpen. Do NOT try this with a load attached. I haven't figured this one out. Probably a reset to factory and/or test mode.

@JWM-Meijer

7 жыл бұрын

Cancel comment on F1 mode. this is indeed calibration and reset. Description to be found here: www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/b3603-dcdc-buck-converter-mini-review-and-how-the-set-key-could-be-fatal/ LoSA seems NOT to be a cutoff current. Baffled by that one.

@JWM-Meijer

7 жыл бұрын

Lo = Load one of 10 (0-9) memory positions, SA = ditto. Normal save is always done in position 0. Solved!

@steve6375

4 жыл бұрын

@@JWM-Meijer rmprepusb.blogspot.com/2019/11/is-d3806-boostbuck-dc-dc-power-supply.html

@JWM-Meijer

4 жыл бұрын

@@steve6375 A bit of a necro-comment in the current fast-moving times ;-) The other "solution" of course is to only use the on-off toggles on the PCB. By coincidence, this is what I always do.

Nice

Anyone else notice the fan connection on the board?

@RowynOfficial

5 жыл бұрын

Gooberslot and the fact there is only one fan connector

Does anyone happen to no where one migh get t some of those ada¡ptes he use on the power converters for hook up,s.power ,