1. Where TF am I? Getting lost in the moment, conversation, adventure, or fear is a part of solo travel. I normally do a really good job of not actually getting lost and failed in Stone Town. My first two days there, my phone did not work and I had no maps. The winding streets of Stone Town evidently came long before the idea of a "Planning Department." There is no rhyme or reason to the maze and I got lost on several occasions.
2. The Stomach Doctor: Olopiro arranged with his team at Visit Natives for me to have a personal chef on my journey. Food is unpredictable in the bush and it may not be suited for my Western gut. Cue Isaac. Isaac is also Maasai and is living in the town of Arusha as a Stomach Doctor. I am unsure if that phrase is a universal Tanzania one, or a Maasai nickname. Either way, I loved it and Isaac did provide daily medicine for my hunger. His set up would put any Colorado professional camper to shame. They made sure to use bottled water for everything including the powdered coffee. The highlight was breakfast in Ngorongoro Conservation area next to a lake filled with Hippos. It is the same spot the late great Anthony Bourdain had a meal when he was here.
3. Foraging for Root Veggies: When I edited The Lion Spear, the Hadzabe Poison Arrow and Hunt were the main features that I knew I had to include. I felt it was important to highlight the "gathering" part of the Hunter Gatherer lifestyle in this video. While the men are out hunting everyday, the women gather veggies and firewood for the tribe. The women's hands are weathered and tough from constant foraging, they don't have the luxury of gardening gloves here! They always keep a hunter guard with them to be safe and take plenty of snack and smoke breaks while working.
4. A Farm Island: Wowza, Pemba Island is like an agricultural biosphere. They grow just about anything tropical here and have a plethora of goodies from the sea. The first footage is low tide where the locals are gathering seaweed from the "farm." You can see how it is all a grid and organized. You will find seaweed hanging from branches and devices outside of many homes. It is used for oils and soaps they they sell in markets or to larger companies.
5. I smell something: Oh the Msuka Fishing Market. This was terrifying after eating so much seafood on this island already. I must have a stomach of steel if I ate any fish from here. All the fish is brought in and laid out in the sand for hours before it makes its way to a home or restaurant. I know this because we were there for hours and much of the fish I saw when we arrived, was still being sold when we left. They had a wide variety of fish including Ahi and Mahi Mahi. Squid and octopus are a larger part of their diet here and I did devour lots of that. Cooked thoroughly of course. The fix auctioneer was very stoic and all business. Sija said there are more than one, but he was solo.
6. Spicy Spices: There are many commercial spice farms on Pemba and this maze was a locally own one. Always support the little guy! These clips highlight Sija's infectious laugh! The governmental control over the Clove economy is a familiar tale and brings us back to reality. At least Karen jokes always lift spirits!
7. Swahili Sex Mat: There is too much to Swahili culture and history for even 10 videos. Hamis was an incredible curator and a good sport through all of my bs. I learned so much from him and also think Swahili Sex Mat is a killer band name.
8. Naan yo business: The Silk Route was supposed to be the best and spiciest Indian food in Stone Town. I respectfully disagree as the Tea House on Harumzi served me some peppers that popped my eyes out. I did like how this spice was like Szechuan though. And that Garlic Naan? We still keep in touch, though it is more casual now.
9. Solve the Puzzle: I happily accepted instant coffee in the bush because it meant clean bottled water that wouldn't turn my lower intestines into a slip n' slide. It left much to be desired on all other fronts. I finally found Puzzle Coffee that used filtered water for their brews and ice. It was a slice of heaven and of course, on my last day.
10. Night Man Cometh: This famous night market hosts locals and mainly drunk people. I was curious to learn that as the city is mainly Muslim, and religion not known for alcohol consumption. Mr. Mango is very famous for the signature Zanzibar Pizza. It was tasty, but does not satsify a Western Pizza craving.
11. The Aroma of Death Metal: Enough said.
00:00 Tanzania Cutting Room Floor
01:30 Isaac the Stomach Doctor
02:23 Hadzabe Women Foraging
04:09 Pemba Island Fish Market
05:57 Makuwe Spice Farm
13:57 Pemba Museum
18:05 Stone Town Cuisine and Indian Food
21:16 Puzzle Coffee
22:01 Stone Town Night Market
23:10 Mr Mango Zanzibar Pizza