Great video, I’ve used almost half a dozen types including the ones you showed as well as Jomar, RWV and Easyflex. I personally have stuck with the Webstone and typically have press connection. Being able to have it turned sideways to miss the gas line works well and it lines up when I have a recirc setup with another webstone valve. Also one thing that is neat is that you can pull the handle on the webstone and flip it so you isolate the pipe work from the tankless unit. In rare occasions it’s handy.

what is there a way to remove the check valve on the watts cold valve?

Quick question. The installer did not install flush valves on my system or flex hoses so I cannot get to the filter screen on the inlet to clean it of debris. He soldered solid copper pipes directly onto the heater. My unit is a Stiebel Tempra 36 B and it is ELECTRIC... not gas. My question is... what is that RELIEF VALVE on the hot side used for... and do I need it? I only have two pipes; water coming INTO the water heater and water going OUT to the house. Also... if I do NOT need to use it, do I PLUG that hole (and) is a PLUG usually included with the kit? Thank you in advance.

@CarlosMartinez-so3yn

4 жыл бұрын

Hello, I have the same question. What did you end up doing?

@abiseid

4 жыл бұрын

@@CarlosMartinez-so3yn as far as the relief valve goes, I found it was only for back pressure as a safety. My unit has yet to create any drip from there so I just left it as-is for the time being. What I need to do is just attach a pipe to it and let it go down into my crawl space under my house since my unit is inside a closet with the central ac (Miami). As far as the complete setup to fix the fixed-copper lines into the unit that my installer left me with... well... I used stainless braided hoses with shark bite ends on one side and a garden hose threaded connector on the side that goes INTO the valves. Worked out great since I don't have much experience soldering copper. Zero leaks and looks beautiful. By the way... I used 1 to 3 parts CLR (as per recommendations of the manufacturer) and let it circulate for about 2 hours. That is just to soften up the calcium. The trick is in the flush AFTERWARDS. I kept running clear water flush multiple times and it would keep filling the 5-gallon bucket with calcium debris. After lugging the full buckets about 5-times into the toilet, I found that this was going to be a longer task to do so I stopped and came up with a system that would allow me to do whatever I wanted while the unit was flushing. What I did was attach a GARDEN HOSE to the outlet side that was pouring back into the bucket and extended it OUT A WINDOW and INTO THE YARD. I let it pour into a bucket OUTSIDE and would go out every hour to see how it was doing. Since calcium is going to sink to the bottom of the bucket, it would allow me to monitor the process. I would dump the bucket out every hour. Each progressive hour, the bucket had less and less calcium flakes on the bottom as residue. Do not worry that the water overflows the bucket. The calcium floats down. I flushed for about 3 hours. AFTER THAT... and if you want to do a thorough job, remove the filters from EACH SINK... remove EACH SHOWER HEAD... and if you have a THERMOSTATIC VALVE that controls the heat on your shower, remove that also. Clean all screens and let the lines flush out one by one. NOT at the same time as the house water will lose pressure. The most tedious one is the thermostatic valve. Nothing to be afraid of but you must be respectful and learn how to do it first. It's a pretty satisfying job but in ALL the videos that I came across, every instructor leaves out crucial information to get the job done correctly so that you are not just doing half the job. I hope I was able to help and you are well. If not... and you have more questions, feel free to ask.