I'm gonna pick up modeling soon this with be my first kit

@PetesKits

2 жыл бұрын

That's excellent. Being a Tamiya kit, just read the instructions, dry fit before you glue, and you really shouldn't have any problems. Cheers!

Great review once again, mate! Another one I'm still waiting for it to arrive ;) Cheers!

@PetesKits

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks mate, very much appreciated. Always liked the Tamiya 7.5cm, 37mm, and the 88. They have crews, easy builds, with plenty of potential for dioramas etc. Cheers!

Thanks a lot. Nice unboxing.

@PetesKits

3 жыл бұрын

Cheers, much appreciated!

I had all of these models back in the 70's.

@PetesKits

Жыл бұрын

Same here. Probably one of the reason I have these in my stash now. Cheers!

I literally bought this kit today, looking forward to making it. I'm new to modelling, even more so for ground units (I'm more of an aviation guy typically). Thought this would be a great little kit to build confidence, especially with the movable parts feels like it could be a lot of fun for an afternoons work. I've bought the V1 rocket kit too and also the Golliatch and infantry kit. After those and I've got a better understanding of stuff like weathering I'll have a pop at some tanks!

@PetesKits

3 жыл бұрын

Nice one. It's always good to try different types of models, and Tamiya kits are great to start with. Simple instructions, easy builds, and usually no dramas. Have fun! Cheers!

@timmy3822

3 жыл бұрын

@@PetesKits Thanks! I built and painted an Airfix F4F-4 Wildcat as my first kit, which was going rather well until I went to apply the weathering. I used acrylic paints, put a varnish layer on top but when I applied the enamel thinners I must've cocked up somewhere because it stripped the paint back to the plastic which was really disheartening! Something like this is quick and easy to put together (and cheap) so it won't be the end of the world if I end up making a mistake somewhere.

@PetesKits

3 жыл бұрын

@@timmy3822 Yeah, enamel thinners and acrylics don't play well sometimes. Have done similar. Accidently spilt some Tamiya airbrush cleaner on a finished Messerschmitt 109.... at least now I know how to strip paint off a model completely :) Cheers Mate!

I’ve built a half dozen of these over the past few years. I find it more than adequate, and as you stated simple and uncomplicated. I used spare parts from a dragon kit to spruce things up on a couple of them.

@PetesKits

11 ай бұрын

This is why I love these, and the little Pak 35/36 kit. They are easy to build, and despite their age, quite suitable for most modellers. Cheers!

Good review mate I just picked this up for 15.00 AUD thought I did well until you said 9.00 doooooh!

@PetesKits

3 жыл бұрын

Yep, I've had those "Doooooh' moments too buying kits. Swings and Roundabouts. In the end what matters is if you're happy with the kit. Cheers mate and thanks for the comment!

@easyaussietarget3355

3 жыл бұрын

@@PetesKits Your exactly right and that's what I told myself when I watched your review... I was happy to pay for it and I am not disappointed at all. Thanks for the content!

@PetesKits

3 жыл бұрын

@@easyaussietarget3355 No worries mate. Cheers!

Hi Pete, Sorry, hope I'm not bothering you coming back to this one. As I said on another video, I got this kit recently, and have kind of finished building it. But I do have a couple of problems with it (not to mention some tiny little pieces that I see no reason for them not to have been made as part of the larger pieces where these tiny ones have to be glued; an example, piece # A1... If not using my glasses and the Optivisor I wonder if I'd be able to see it!... Why didn't they make it as part of piece # A4?... As for Phase 6... it was a real nightmare...), hope you can help. So, on phase 9, it's the fixing of the gun body to the base/trail. Well, they say that the gun is supposed to rotate (on its axe, that spike that is made with the two parts of pieces # A21 and # A 24, when glued together, which then, on Phase 9 is supposed to enter the hole from piece # B 28), but I find a problem here. There is that rack, from piece # A 14, that is about as long as the spike that is supposed to get into that hole. And with both these parts about the same size, I can't seem to be able to fix (but not gluing) that spike into the hole on piece # B 28. The rack won't let that happen, as being about the same length as the spike, it blocks it from entering deep enough into that hole in order to fix the gun without gluing it! Is this normal, or did I do something wrong during the assembling process? I've gone through all the steps again, checking and double checking what the instructions show and what I've done, and so far couldn't find nothing really wrong that would provoke this result! Should I cut part of that rack, in order to make it shorter and so not blocking the spike from fixing to the hole on piece # B 28 (without having to glue it, so the gun remains movable) ? I really don't know! Can you please help with this? Another problem is the main gun barrel itself. On the instructions, Phase 5, they say "slides forward and backward", so no glue, just insert it into the base of the gun barrel, built on Phase 2. But if I don't glue it... well, it's not only movable forward and backward, but it simply won't stay in place, and as soon as I move the kit, it also moves, and if I turn the kit upside down for some reason, it falls. Weird, or what?... Could you please go through your instructions and check if you can help with some tips or advice? Thank you very much in advance! Chers mate!

@PetesKits

2 жыл бұрын

Hi mate, think I got what your problems are. Lets start with the gun barrel. Okay, Section 5 isn't really clear as to how the barrel fits into the recoil support frame. Had the same issue as you, when test fitting it all. The barrel just wouldn't stay in, then I realised that I hadn't fitted it deep enough into the recoil support frame. How deep the little "ledges" on the barrel base (A19) actually sit is the issue. These little ledges actually sit UNDER that internal shelf within the frame (A13, A14), NOT between it and the top of the recoil support frame. Meaning they have to go deeper in. You will probably have to do what I did, and carefully file down the little ledges/bottom of A19, until the barrel slides nicely. It was a tight fit to begin with. The barrel should stay put after this. Okay, to Part 9, fixing the barrel to the main trail body. The toothed elevating section does get in the way a bit. But the trick is to elevate the gun as much as possible, then slide the "toothed" part under the front of the trail body, (only a small part of that "toothed" piece actually sits under the front of the trail body). Then press the barrels' split "pin" into the hole in the trail body. It should just click into place. It is a bit fiddly, and it would have been better if Tamiya had made this step earlier, so you don't run the risk of breaking any small fittings off. But that's how I managed to get it all set in place. So hopefully this will work for you. And I can see your point about unnecessary small parts. Tamiya isn't alone in doing this kind of thing. Lots of newer kits seem to take it to extremes. Built a Miniart Mercedes Benz Type 170V way back (similar to the Master Box Type 170V in my last video). Loved the detail, but there were lots of small parts that could have been moulded in, and most of these were Photo Etch, without a plastic equivalent, meaning you had to use them. Nice model, just a bit too fiddly in some respects. Hope I've helped with your problems. Glad to help anytime. Cheers mate!

@bluelight3183

2 жыл бұрын

@@PetesKits Wow! Thank you so very much, Pete! I will try the steps you mention, and will let you know if I'm able to fix these problems. Anyway, from your reply I already have a couple of questions. "the trick is to elevate the gun as much as possible, then slide the "toothed" part under the front of the trail body, (only a small part of that "toothed" piece actually sits under the front of the trail body)." How can I do that? I believe that the "toothed" part, being part of piece # A 14, cannot be shortened, it's as long as it comes, and I see no way to slide it under the front of the trail body, because there is a protuberance right there, close to the hole on piece # B 28. And that "toothed" part won't pass through that protuberance. That's where the major problem is. And, how to elevate the gun? That piece, all that part actually (the part that ends with Phase 5) is fixed in place, how can I move it upwards or downwards? Don't think I can move it! As for the barrel, I get what you mean, and will try to see if I can fix that part. I've had a similar issue with the canon on my 88mm, but in that case it was my fault, as I glued both parts making the recoil support frame too much, hence making it impossible for the canon to move along it. So had to slowly sand all those parts until I was able to move the canon into place... I think Tamiya (or any other manufacturer) could do these things better... Again, many thanks, and I'll let you know later if I'm able to fix any of these issues. Cheers mate!

@PetesKits

2 жыл бұрын

@@bluelight3183 Hi mate, from what you have said I think I might see the problem... A question on how you did Step 5. You say " And, how to elevate the gun? That piece, all that part actually (the part that ends with Phase 5) is fixed in place..." When you glued the "Saddle Right" (A21) and "Saddle Left" (A24) pieces together, did you also glue the pins that fit into the holes of the "Muzzle Brake" section (A13, A14) ? If they're glued the gun will not elevate. Hence your problem? Tamiya's instructions fail at that point. And it's a bad fail. They should have marked those pins as "Do Not Glue". Only the bottom joins of A21 and A24 should have been glued, and then Part A6 glued in place. Allowing the barrel to elevate freely. Solutions....if this is the case. 1) If possible, and I suspect it may not be. Try to free up those pins without breaking them. Though, it does seem unlikely you can do this without breaking something. And that will just cause you another world of pain. 2) Cut just enough (prob about half) of the toothed section of A14 off, to allow you to locate the Barrel Section, Split Pin, into the hole in the trail, and then, when you're satisfied that it's all good, from underneath, glue the cut section back on. The barrel won't elevate but it should swivel side to side. Let me know if this is the problem. Cheers!

@bluelight3183

2 жыл бұрын

@@PetesKits Hi mate! You're a genius, man! Thank you very much! You nailed it! :))) "When you glued the "Saddle Right" (A21) and "Saddle Left" (A24) pieces together, did you also glue the pins that fit into the holes of the "Muzzle Brake" section (A13, A14) ?" Yes I did! As per the instructions. As I've no engineer mind, in these cases I always follow the instructions by the letter, and as the instructions say nothing about those two pins (indeed Tamiya's instructions fail badly at this point!), I did glue both those pins to the holes on top of parts A 13 and A 14... So, for the solutions you suggest. Solution 1) might be possible (I've unglued pins and parts before, by putting liquid glue, as the Tamiya's Extra Fine I use, on the glued parts that I wanted to unglue; it may work, but it may take a long time and a lot of pushing and pulling to work; and in this case, as those pins are too close to the rest of the whole Phase 5 construction, it might be risky; after putting glue in the area, one needs to slowly and carefully try to remove the pins, but there are too many little pieces close by, after Phases 5 and also 6 have both been complete... the fixing of the Shield, which was a real nightmare as I mentioned before, because of those 4 pins that glue to the shield itself, the two A 34 and also the two pins from pieces A 21 and A 24... I mean that took me hours to finish that part alone! and honestely I'm not 100% sure that I did it right... my shield seems leaning a bit too much, apparently more than the box art, or pics and videos of others of the same kit that I've seen...), but as I say it would be extremely risky, as I might ruin/brake something, some parts... So, solution 2), yes, I suppose that could work, for temporarily shorten that "toothed" part of piece A 14, then place the spike made by the two pieces A 13 + A 14 glued together into the hole on piece B 28. Now, how deep should that spike go into the hole on piece B 28? I guess not necessarily all the way down, probably just a bit would be enough to secure it in place and make the gun rotate. I see that there is a kind of mark in the spike, see what I mean? If inserting only that part into piece B 28 is enough for it to remain attached and movable, yes, I guess it could be the solution for fixing this issue. But still no solution for the Gun Barrel to move along the Muzzle Brake, but remain fixed in place and not fall if I move the kit upside down, which is what happens now if I turn the kit around. I've tried what you suggested earlier, but so far to no result :(( Anyway, those little edges on piece A 19, they do have like two salient dots on each side. Should I sand those 4 kind of salient dots? Would the gun then go under that internal shelf within the frame from A 13 and A 14 glued together? Or should I sand even more, like as much as possible from those two little edges in order to make it go under that shelf? Notice that if I sand too much, rhen it may go under that shelf, but also freely/easily come up and thus resulting on the same issue, which is the gun barrel go loose. IDK... Anyway, I thank you very, very much for all your help, don't even have words to describe my gratitude! I'll try your solution 2, for fixing the gun body to the trail body, it should work. Wish me luck buddy :)) Cheers mate!

@PetesKits

2 жыл бұрын

@@bluelight3183 Hi mate. Thanks for the compliment. Sometimes I do get those "Eureka!" moments :) So the A13/A14 split pin. Just push it in gently as far as she goes. The pin on mine only sticks out about a millimetre, if that, underneath the trail body. And it should be fine. With the Gun Barrel. If memory serves me right, I carefully sanded both the upper surface of the little ledges, and the bottom of A19 (the part that glues under the breech/barrel in Step 1) with a flat file. Testing it bit by bit until I got it to slide okay. And yes, the the barrel should go under the internal shelf even with A13 and A14 glued together. Just tried it with my own Pak 40. Slid the barrel back and lifted it up, and then back in again. Only thing stopping it from being completely removed was the muzzle brake hitting the shield. So you should be good with that. Hopefully you're pretty close to winning this challenge :) Good Luck! Cheers!

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