This guy knows so much more about filament printing than he does about how adhesives work in practice.

@j.f.christ8421

18 күн бұрын

Also man re-invents grooved dowels poorly, proceeds to make them worse.

@MarinusMakesStuff

14 күн бұрын

@@j.f.christ8421 Yeah, all the presented options really don't blow already existing techniques out of the water. I bet most of the thick glue will not even cure in this way.

A thin channel of glue isn't going to add any substantive reinforcement, no adhesive or epoxy I'm aware of has good strength in tension

@FireGuy90

19 күн бұрын

Agreed, but maybe adding a wire or rod to that channel with an epoxy, could? Maybe add an 90 degree bend at the end and use it to connect to a larger assembly.

@Blackhearts60

19 күн бұрын

@@FireGuy90 Thats where I though he was going to go, like add than metal rods throughout the part would increase its rigidity. Idk what glue is going to do to reinforce a part lol

@_droid

19 күн бұрын

Maybe something like JB Weld. It's not going to be super great but possibly at least stronger than the layer lines. If you could insert steel wires or carbon fiber in to the cavity then fill with epoxy that might be stronger (same concept as rebar). I think we need someone to do testing. @CNCKitchen?

@loginorc

19 күн бұрын

Feeling typical startup CEO vibes here - talking about stuff with 100% confidence, but not always know what he's talking about - put against mechanical engineer he will see that some of the things simply not add up.

@4Fixerdave

19 күн бұрын

I was thinking just a length of filament shoved in the holes. Same material, no expansion issues. And, now I'm wondering if that could work with "tempering" parts... print, shove some extra filament in, put in an oven to let it bind. Going to have to try that one :)

I love these videos and work with 3d printers daily at work and home. However, i struggle with this one particularly. I see glue typically more like the concrete than the rebar, especially with epoxy. And from what i understand of glues and adhesives is that the tighter the surfaces are together the better the glue bonds them together. But the video seems to imply glue is used to bond and fill the gaps, and the filling of gaps is where i think this is flawed.

@SettlingAbyss96

19 күн бұрын

I would think of it more like fiberglass and epoxy. When the epoxy is introduced and displaces the air, we get all the associated benefits. With layer lines we have a bit of a similar situation. Obviously the benefits will depend on the glue you use, but the main idea is the same, and in theory you could use anything as a glue, because it’s just a liquid that will solidify and displace the air (ideally taking the negative shape and locking in with the layer lines: like Paris plaster or epoxy)

@BloodyMobile

19 күн бұрын

It depends on the glue. I for example got some silicone-glue, which is simply silicon you can get in one of those cartridge "guns" but mixed with a solvent to keep it liquid. And it's quite runny as well, for like 15 seconds, then the outer layer starts forming a "skin" and it starts becoming more and more like thick honey. It also "shrinks" a little while drying out, which can be a an advantage. But given the silicon nature of it, this stuff is /really/ sticky and can bond with stuff that normal glue will just snap off of, like PET, HDPT or Glass. It's not permanent either, it's more like "seasoned chewing gum", if you can be bothered to put the effort into it (or find a fitting solvent), you /can/ get it off again. But normally it does /not/ get off again (on it's own), patially because it never fully hardens, which can be another bonus. And this stuff would work extremely well with the examples in the video. Other glue that could work as well would be the nice "smelly" (really aggressive solvent) Pattex kind of glue for example. It's remotely similar to the silicon glue as in that it usually never fully hardens either and turns more into some rubbery stuff, just without the silicone stickyness. But for the examples in the video, the stickyness in combination with turning rubbery could also work.

@Adrian_Fleck

19 күн бұрын

Jea, the rebar theory from his is wild. I think the Video ist great nonsense

@gorbinasvd

19 күн бұрын

I think you are very correct. Let's not forget a few additional things. Most of the thicker adhesives are made for tough joints, which will allow some deformation once set. The problem, especially in the case of layer adhesion, is that a brittle fracture occurs between the stiff but not strong bonds between the layers. So, adding something that is like a thick, tough, but rather flexible adhesive between the stiff layers and loading them in parallel will not add much strength to the part in that particular loading direction. Remember here that the deformation in both materials will be similar. The tough adhesive will not be able to carry as much of the load compared to the polymer with a global deformation.

@trashpanda9433

19 күн бұрын

A lot of their stuff is focused on printing hundreds or thousands of parts and developing an assembly line process that a worker can do. And there's also a lot of exaggeration to make it more understandable, but I agree that it's sometimes confusing

I'd love to see you test the strength of these glue reinforced parts.

@slant3d

18 күн бұрын

Subscribe to the tangled testing channel

Nifty! Some thoughts: 1. If you add rings around the hole itself, then the glue becomes even more of a mechanical lock. Having opposing spirals on the plug and hole is a good alternative 2. For many of those applications, you can insert lengths of carbon fiber/etc. into the tubes before adding the glue to strengthen the glue even more. 3. *FAR* better than using a sphere to form the channels is to rotate a cube by 45 degrees in all three dimensions to turn it into a diamond. That will not only speed up printing because you are using only straight lines, but you don't have to worry about the tops of arcs drooping, as the maximum overhang is locked to 45 degrees. 4. For even more mechanical locking, you can have 1.75mm holes that curve from the top to perpendicular to the sides of the hole and slide sections of filament through them and into matching holes in the sides of the main hole. (Depending on how much force might be involved, if you have even _slightly_ threaded plugs and holes, this would be enough to lock the 'bolt' into place even without glue beyond a bit to hold the filament in place.) You could leave a hex-shaped inset in the top of the bolt so you could screw it flush with the surface, insert the filament pieces through the holes _inside_ the hex inset, then glue a hex-shaped plug to fill the hole, or even just make the plug snap-fit so you don't need glue. Cheers!

@oliverherzog7702

18 күн бұрын

1. it interferes with the control you get if you use 1 dispersion channel. 3. Trapezoidal groves are common for this, if done at slight below max distance the glue can bridge (part to part), it ensures proper distribution while not sacrificing the channel surface for adhesion.

I have use this technique before. For me the biggest advantage is simplifying the part joining process especially in smaller geometries where otherwise it would be easy to mess up your hands with CA glue.

Has anyone used (like shown in the video) "elmers" glue to glue parts together??? I have only used CA glue. 2:40 - Anyone have any proof that this white glue is "stronger" than the layer lines of a PLA part?

@agarza6475

19 күн бұрын

I would not recommend "Elmer's" glue for this type of design. 1) This type of glue contracts as it dries so you would lose adhesion against the walls of the print. 2) This glue would take quite some time to cure since it is enclosed and has no air to dry it. 3) This glue is not my "go-to" for gluing plastic parts; use CA or an epoxy.

@darrennew8211

19 күн бұрын

I have had some success with "wood glue" like carpenters use. But I didn't really use it in situations where the stuff needs to be particularly strong. Just holding up the weight of the parts with an airtight seal.

@fancytableshoes

19 күн бұрын

Also, PVA hardens in wood because the wood absorbs the moisture. In non-porous plastics, all that moisture has to evaporate out through tiny voids, or slowly diffuse through the skin of dried glue. A tight fitting joint might take weeks, months, or may never harden. Like the tight fitting joint between a plastic glue bottle and its lid. Any glue relying on a chemical reaction (like epoxy, PU glue on a dampened surface or CA glue with accelerator) would be a better choice. PVA was probably just used here for demonstration purposes.

@phasesecuritytechnology6573

16 күн бұрын

He is using glue that shows the concept for the sake of viewing footage on camera. This is not the actual glue used to hold the parts together.

@darrennew8211

16 күн бұрын

@@phasesecuritytechnology6573 It *would* be nice to know what kind of glue flows like that would also dry hard. :-)

These videos are fantastic! I discovered this technique when I tried (and oftentimes failed) to print a key for an interior door. Printing vertical was the easiest way to get all the features, but the stem kept snapping off in the lock. On the final part I exposed the infill on the top layer and pushed superglue all-the-way through, thinking to myself: "Why is there no 3DPrint creator talking about stuff like that?"

I am surprised seeing so many (or mostly) negative comments on this idea. The idea is great. I am usung the same idea in a very similar way for years and it works perfectly. Obviously this technique has its limitations just as any technique does. But it works! It works both for CA glues (both for liquid and gel versions) and silicons (I use so called "hybrid" or "MS-polymer" silicons). If you do not like the particular realizations shown in the video invent your own shapes or setups, be creative. Bit the idea in general is clever and VERY practical!

@slant3d

16 күн бұрын

Don't mind the keyboard warriors. Thanks.

@SeaHay

15 күн бұрын

most comments I've read so far that I think you're referencing are definitely critical, but not negative. One really good point I saw brought up was that the channels could be used to fill the print with fibers or some other material for added strength, since glue on it's own isn't likely to have a noticeable effect on strength increases. At that point it may be better to have some sort of matrix that the 3d print makes up with a resin fill for the inside. The other big issue is that there's no testing shown here to compare the designs, which makes this more of a cool idea that still needs a proof of concept put to work. I really appreciate the mentioning of the glues you've used so far, since I haven't worked with any outside of superglue, and using something that would help fill a clearance for loose-fit parts would be pretty nice for a couple of the projects I've worked on so far. Something like caulk where you could inject it like the channels in the bolt had, so you don't go having to mix epoxy and work with its pot life, but not knowing the efficacy of these designs means I'm either working with something that won't actually hold, or I could go with the tried and true method of test printing different sizes until I get a snug fit. It's good to get creative and this video certainly shows a pretty novel idea for printed hardware, I just think people are pretty skeptical that this would work as well as the author describes and would want to see it tried out before jumping right on it.

@spock6692

15 күн бұрын

​@@SeaHay It's nice to talk with a person as interested in 3D printing as I am :) . I invented this kind of gluing by myself some years ago, have never seen it anywhere, so I was glad to see another guy doing the same. The difference between me and the author is that I only (or mainly) use this technique for bonding together 3D-printed and non-3D-printed parts. I did not have a situation when I need to glue a printed bolt into a printed nut as shown in the video :) . I'm joking now, I understand that the bolt and the nut are only an example, but still when I need to glue 3D-printed parts it is always leaning one flatness against another flatness, but never (or very seldom) deep insertion of one part into another. In most cases I simply can print such an assembly as one part. But I realize, In some cases gluing with deep insertion may be necessary. So let's divide the idea into two parts: gap filling and reinforcement. By the way, Superglue that you talk about is another name for CA (cyanoacrylate) glue that I mentioned, so you know this glue. And Superglue is sold in two sorts: the regular glue which is pretty liquid and the gel glue which is like a shaving gel, the latter fits the theme of the video best. 1) Gap filling. I once needed to connect a vintage (but not used) toilet pan's outlet to a modern standard 110 mm sewage pipe. The outlet was significantly thinner and not even round so it could not be sealed by the rubber seal in the standard pipe. I printed an adapter with the standard 110 mm outlet at one end and some throat at the other end. There were eight 4 mm holes around the throat. I put the throat on the toilet's outlet and filled the gap all around between the plastic and the ceramics with my favorite hybrid silicon (or caulk) using a caulking gun. After a day it was impossible to separate them without breaking the plastic adapter. Another example: I did not like standard polyethylene socket boxes for mounting switches and electrical outlets on (into) the brick walls. I printed my own design with channels for the caulk. I Have put a box into a drilled hole and filled the gap between the plastic and the brick using the caulking gun. Now the boxes sit in the walls as solidly as a brick :) . There were many more examples like gluing a polyethylene garden hose nipple into a hook holding it on the edge of a barre l, etc. In every case there is the inlet hole for a glue and a channel(s) and/or gap(s) for distributing the glue where it should go. If the parts are small (like a depth limiting collar on a drill bit) you can use Superglue. In case of bigger volumes and longer channels use other glues as Superglue may cure too early and block the further propagation of itself. 2) Reinforcement. You can use many items to reinforce you printed parts: strong thin rope, metal wire, metal rod(s), etc. The idea is the same: you design and print some channels where you are able to push, suck (with a vac) or insert your reinforcement element making sure there is a proper way and enough gap for your glue. Then you apply the glue. This may even be an epoxy (just chose a kind with longer pot life like half an hour or so). If you use a rope or a metal wire, take epoxy. In case of a metal rod you can use a caulk, but epoxy is still better. You can pump epoxy with a syringe then it goes in faster than when you pour it. A thin (4 cm) high (20 cm) part, very brittle right out of the printer, becomes extremely strong with a couple of 2 mm paracord glued in with epoxy. I tried to break it with my hands and failed to do that (that was very easy to break it right out of the printer). All above applies to ABS printing as I print almost only with ABS. Well, I hope I helped you to get familiar with this gluing technique. Best regards and have good prints! :)

@SeaHay

12 күн бұрын

@@spock6692 really appreciate the follow-up and detailed anicdotals! Definately stared at CA glue when I first read that for far too long since my brain couldn't put together the correlation, and definately think injection gluing should be done for more parts too for multi-part prints. There was a pen I put together a while ago that could've benefitted from a channel being cut into its two halves, but I think the author did'nt want there to be too large a clearance between the parts, so you get to mate them with superglue getting all over your fingers trying to keep it aligned. A jig would've also worked, but would be way more material printed for a simple alignment that some slots could've fixed instead. Having something you could squeeze from a medium to small syringe and have it take a while to set would be ideal for these sorts of projects so long as it bonds well and doesn't need flush part mating. Again, thanks for the info!

@georghartmann6971

12 күн бұрын

@@slant3d well maybe do mind some engineers/scientists, that know what the are talking about... If you claim the glue makes the part stronger : just prove it... It is not hard.. And sometimes it pays off to read some adhesion theory articles, to make a foundation for your argument...

Many make a point that glues are usually not intended as a filler. Even if it did, such as epoxy, one thing not considered for the injection idea is that you need to allow air to escape which many of these ideas don't account for.

@slant3d

18 күн бұрын

Watch the full video

What glues are affordable and strong enough to use in those quantities? PVA (wood glue) is quite stretchy etc. after all

@Pitchlock8251

19 күн бұрын

Pretty sure he was just using white glue for demonstration. Epoxies would be you best bet. But that still a lot of ??? What are you bonding, how thick will the glue joint be

@AuxHex

18 күн бұрын

Modeling epoxy will flow easily and will form a strong solid element inside.

Dang, I thought you were smarter than this. Having giant channels of glue is only going to waste money. Glue is best used when 2 surfaces are very close together. A big cylinder of glue has very little strength in tension and is not going to act like rebar. The more contacting surfaces covered in glue the better. So, your spiral channel is going to perform worse than if you just covered the whole cylinder in glue. The best you can do is just design treads into your part and cover the whole thing in glue, or build wood working joints like dovetails and coat them in glue. This video seems like either a test for your audience or a late April Fools prank.

@JuanAdam12

18 күн бұрын

You couldn’t start your doctoral thesis-comment without a rude remark?

@wesdiezy

18 күн бұрын

@@JuanAdam12 Well, I lost a lot of faith in Slant 3d after this. If he doesn't even know how glue works how am I supposed to trust the rest of his tips and trick.

@JuanAdam12

18 күн бұрын

@@wesdiezy I think you know. Take what works, disregard what doesn’t. I think he’s trying to sell/show the possibilities of 3D printing. I’ve gotten a lot of tips from him and learned quite a bit from this channel. It’s not rocket science-literally.

@AndreGomes1987

18 күн бұрын

Lol you failed the test. He is showing a concept, not telling you specifically about a peg in a hole. Take the concept and use it where it makes sense. There are compromises with everything and having the strongest bond doesn't necessarily mean best. You must be an engineer

@au2075

18 күн бұрын

Yeah, this guy doesn't know what he's talking about. His joining features video was similarly full of poorly thought out design and bad reasoning. Can't really blame him - he's trying to sell the idea of his 3D printing factory - but some of the engineering and design guidance is pretty shoddy / flat out wrong.

In engineering we use systems like this, not for glue, but for greasing and other lubricants

This is an interesting concept! Clearly the size of the gluing channel can be changed to reflect the specific glue one is using. It could come in handy in certain situations, but obviously not every gluing situation. These videos are great, whether or not I have an immediate application or not, because they influence my future designs even when I’m not aware of it. Thanks for sharing them.

I believe these points can be exaggerated even further if you were to say, run carbon fiber strips through the channels that run down the z axis, then fill the channels with epoxy rather than glue. Your z strength would likely improve significantly.

Nice! Another idea to consider is using exposed regions of fully permeable 3D infill like gyroid infill. This could be applied to areas of both parts and increase the surface area for the glue significantly. (Although it might be easiest to accomplish in the slicer instead of modeling it directly.)

This video is REALLY valuable! Thanks for showing your technique; Slant 3D

@slant3d

14 күн бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

Classic "if there is no problem - create one" The way you talking absolute nonsense with so much confidence is impressive

@TomS699

18 күн бұрын

Yep kzread.info/dash/bejne/foV3t5VvoM6uZ8Y.htmlsi=bgLjRJ_DnnhAU_Y4

@802Garage

17 күн бұрын

You gotta remember the video is not about THIS scenario. It is about applying solutions like this to ANY scenario that might need them. For example, the multiple glue channels. What if you print a part in one piece which is like a series of macaroni noodles connected together with thin spots to snap apart, but you make them with a glue column in them? Then you could inject something like a 2 part silicone and after it cures, snap the pieces apart, and now you have a flexible structure with a consistent band through it. Or what about the spiral glue channel? Sure it doesn't make sense for a smooth bolt in a hexagon, but what if you are trying to glue a 3D printed rod into a hole in concrete or similar, where you would like to fill the area around the bolt with epoxy? And what if it's in a wall or in a ceiling, so filling the hole is far less practical, but you want to be able to inject epoxy and rotate the part so it fills the whole cavity? This is just off the top of my head. It's very easy to crap on any idea, but people need to THINK about THINKING and go outside of a single example. Some of these techniques may be very rarely useful, but they may also help you come up with another technique that you use all the time. Think harder. Build off of the information you are given instead of tearing it down.

@TheRealPowerDoge

17 күн бұрын

@@802Garage bro what are you talking about Of course you gotta think to solve problems you are facing. That has nothing to do with the video. Examples presented are lazy half baked ideas thrown together in a day to make a low quality video.

@Antassium

17 күн бұрын

​@@TheRealPowerDoge🤓🤡

@802Garage

17 күн бұрын

@@TheRealPowerDoge LOL never mind my comment was wasted on you. Hopefully it will help others. You agree with my point and then disagree with it in the same paragraph. This video isn't for people who already know everything. My mistake.

The spiral weakens the part and since glue will come out at the end it's the same of putting glue at the bottom and pushing it. A real trick would be to put a cavity at the top to take the surplus glue and still put glue at the tip and maybe also side of the pin

what type of glue do you recommend?

What is that app that you use for CAD?

It's actually crazy for the owner of a successful printing operation to go online and willingly teach people their trade secrets and methods. I've learned some amazing tips from this channel and now I've learned another one. The only downside is that I thought that I was finished with the project I'm working on and now I'm looking at another few days of modelling and testing.

@fellwind

19 күн бұрын

I think it helps them in that if I'm designing my own item, I can prepare it for manufacturing without taking their engineer's time. They can just concentrate on manufacturing the part for me.

@slant3d

19 күн бұрын

Understanding how to create good parts will help the industry grow. We are making a warehouse where the shelves make the product. But it doesn't work if people don't know how to leverage design to use tools like our API and Etsy plugin

@slant3d

19 күн бұрын

It helps the customer. They do not have to pay for engineering time.

@josephpk4878

18 күн бұрын

It makes good sense. Either way, it's a great contribution to the open-source community and I highly appreciate the dynamics that it's added to my learning experience with 3D printing. Many thanks.

@j.f.christ8421

18 күн бұрын

Yeah but this is just... wrong... It's about as wrong as the explanation of heat transfer in the Stanley cup video.

Time for a stress test of different methods including og way of glueing

Some of this makes sense but other parts have me puzzled. Glue works by binding 2 surfaces together. If you just shoot it to the bottom of the bolt it only coats the bottom of the bolt and not the much higher surface area of the sides. I like the curved channel idea but you may want to give it a twist, once the glue reaches back to the top, to make sure it spreads along the sides of the bolt so that you maximize surface area contact. I also have to wonder about glue as "rebar" how is glue helping the print to be stronger? Is it infiltrating the layers and bonding to them? Or is it acting as a flexible skeleton? Does that prevent breaking or does it just hold broken parts together?

@phasesecuritytechnology6573

16 күн бұрын

He is showing creators / designers how to go from one modeling concept into a better more advanced one with mass production efficiencies in mind. He does this same concept in every video. It's kind of a good, better, best approach to teaching which apparently alotnor people here aren't getting.

What glue do you use for pla?

What glue are you using?

What kind of glue do you used in this video and last video?

Hey, thanks for always bringing great tips and tricks. I would never have thought of this. Any thoughts on choice of glue? Perhaps stiff vs flexible glues? Keep at it!

Have you looked into 3D printed molds for things like carbon fiber parts? You just make a "male" and "female" mold with a gap that is like 2mm, then put carbon fiber and resin between them, then clamp it. You can save the mold if you put a couple layers of saran wrap between the carbon fiber and the mold.

The channels definitely lower the surface area in this case (Over coating the whole part) and will produce much weaker parts especially as most glues will shrink a lot when drying and pull away. Additionally not provide any structural reinforcement. (Glues are meant only to used in very thin layers. The one I could see this being useful for is epoxy injections though given the expoxy is so strong and doesn't shrink much.

@802Garage

17 күн бұрын

If you can spin the part after injecting into the channel, as in this example, you could keep spinning while injecting to ensure you get full surface coverage. There are many ways to apply these ideas without critiquing what is very obviously a simplistic example in the video.

instead of glue, you could also use a syringe to inject resin that you've mixed up into the part, strengthening it even further.

Simpler Version: Adjust the clearance to accommodate fuzzy skin surface texture on the glued surfaces. Alternate: Use loose tolerance coarse threads to add surface area to the glued and screwed surfaces.

This is the video that got me to subscribe. Thanks for this! Need to dig deeper into your channel.

Can you make a video about what glue I should use for different materials? Like what should I use to glue par A to part B if A and B are ether same material or different materials. For example gluing ABS to ABS or ABS to TPU.

This is awesome and expanded my mind

I definitely figured out you need a place for the hot glue to go if you want to get a reliable flush surface. Good to see these other ideas too! FWIW, it turns out that wood glue sticks well to PLA and melts if you soak it. So if you want to test-glue something without it being permanent, it's a good start. The spiral groove is such a boss idea.

@slant3d

19 күн бұрын

Thanks

I have Shapr3D and I love it. It doesn't have formula CAD though so gears are a bit difficult for me as a nooby

You're not fooling anyone, Mac

I find just leaving the layer lines on welded faces works perfect for what your doing

@Dan-ry7ql

18 күн бұрын

Like if you were to pick something up with 2 overlapped phone books . Friction :) that or degas in a vacuum?

In the woodworking world, it has been proven to spread the glue on both surfaces first works best. Is your idea that it stronger an assumption or did you test it?

what kind of glue is that?

Great if you're connecting something that could use those. What about flat pieces?

@slant3d

17 күн бұрын

Check out other video on glue slots

You could push this even further by adding features like wedges, clips or other to hold down the parts while the glue is setting.

@slant3d

19 күн бұрын

True. The complexity enabled by printing really gives you a lot of new process options

i sell lamps and make some stands for them, for the first time i tried the chamfer and tried weird angles, also by doing this i could make the holding system embedded instead of glued, this really feels like the right way of doing it, thanks man im really enjoying this ride, thank you for educating us

@slant3d

19 күн бұрын

Thanks

Cool concept, I will include them in my future designs.

For filling the internals of a peg you could have the pressure push against origami folded wedges(or plain drywall anchor style expanding barbs) be forced out into locking holes or grooves, type thing. Not that epoxy wouldn't hold in a groove on its own... over time. This would lock instantly during assembly, etc, etc. Maybe a screw in lock pin like automotive clips but way bigger? And easier to get back open than automotive clips! Thanks for the brain food.

The discord link for the slant api is invalid.

Interesting approach! What kind of glue is that btw?

@makcraft

19 күн бұрын

looks like a generic wood glue - PVA

i guess the real question for me is what sort of applications would use a glue thats easily injectable like that, i think most print on print adhesives dont use that kind of volume and is more reliant on surface to surface contact with little glue being used, i could say maybe an epoxy but if that is more beneficial in this case vs a normal surface to surface i think needs to be tested more

why not just make a screw thread?

@ethangrewe583

19 күн бұрын

Sometimes you don't want parts that are able to be taken apart... Also I would still brush glue on but have the channels for the glue to goto.

@Todestelzer

18 күн бұрын

A glue connection is stronger and saves printing time.

@802Garage

17 күн бұрын

Missing. The. Point. The video isn't about gluing a threadless bolt into a hexagon. It's about knowledge and tools to apply to other problems.

Can you do a glue strength test. IE PVA , wood glue and so on?

@WhyplayGaming

18 күн бұрын

The Rebars Idea is amazing definitely gonna start doing that

April Fools?

Depending on the viscosity of the glue you're using, it would likely be beneficial to put more, smaller channels, but good tips nonetheless

Damn it’s so obvious! I love this

slant3d, have you fully switched from fusion to shaper? and if so, it's interesting to me why

@TheRealPowerDoge

18 күн бұрын

They have been paid by shapr3d

@zrizzy6958

18 күн бұрын

@@TheRealPowerDoge probably yes, but I'm asking if the whole company switched

What is the 3d modeling software you use in your videos? Is it plasticity?

@phasesecuritytechnology6573

16 күн бұрын

Shapr3d

0:44 Ayyo, What is Cosmo and Wanda Doin'?

The way this video was going, I expected the last step was going to be printing just an injection mold in which you pour a liter of glue 😄

Lots of people here claiming you can't add strength to a part via glue. I don't think I agree, but even if they are correct, nothing prevents you from slamming a part with a different print orientation, or even a metal rod, down through the inner channel once you've pushed in the desired amount of glue. Also no one said the channels have to be huge, but it does help demonstrate the concept if you use highly obvious ones in a demonstration environment. Love the channel, always enjoy learning novel solutions to old problems!

The idea of using glue as a peg, or retaining mechanism is a great tip. Combining with lower tolerance mechanical restraint (threads, or snap-in) can ensure both temporary placement, and longterm robustness. The type of glue being used dictates the application method to a significant degree. It's not apparent in this video what type of glue is being used? Looks like a water based white glue, or silicon, which have long drying times as rely on evaporation. Set and drying times is an important aspect that should be discussed further in context of glue type.

@802Garage

17 күн бұрын

Oooh now there's an idea! Have a hole in the part you are inserting that aligns with a hole in the part you are inserting it into. That way when you inject the glue and it cures, it literally creates a retaining pin of glue that would have to be sheared to separate the parts. Make that out of J-B Weld and see how strong it is, hahaha. You could also create concave rings in both the inserted part and what it goes into that align and the glue injects to fill the ridges, creating numerous solid rings which hold both parts together. Is any of this more effective than proper glue itself? Hard to say, but it could be great for gluing parts that will get dirty during install or are dissimilar materials and won't glue properly with conventional glues or if you want to use a cheap glue in the wrong situation.

First! Love learning from these videos

@slant3d

19 күн бұрын

Glad you like them!

4:20 this is absolutely possible with traditional manufacturing

@littlehills739

17 күн бұрын

so is 2:49 drill rod on rotary table thread the end groove and tap hex - tread together

This video needs context, specifically *_what kind_* of glue these tips are applicable to. Because the glues that i am used to using, would cost WAY too much to use in this way, and they work better in thin layers. If there is another kind of glue I should be using, and using in this manner, I would like to know what glue that is.

@802Garage

17 күн бұрын

Or, flip that on its head. The whole point of this video is to be an example WITHOUT context. It's all about how you can apply these ideas or similar to specific scenarios where they will actually be useful. It's not about gluing a peg into a hole, it's about gluing something else into something else and will you have knowledge and tools to solve specific problems in the future.

@charlesstaton8104

17 күн бұрын

@@802Garage i wasn't fixated on the peg in the hole, but the whole concept of pumping 50+ml of glue into parts, through channels and ports. I can tell you this won't work for super glue, Elmer's glue, wood glue, and every other kind of glue that I have experience with. This video presupposes I have experience with some other glue, for which it does work. What glue glue might that be?

@802Garage

17 күн бұрын

@@charlesstaton8104 Well again, I think you are focusing on the example. Do the channels have to be that large? Do they have to be that shape? Do they have to be applied to parts this large? Do you have to put them along the entire part? There are so many ways to take this idea and apply it in a way that makes more sense to you or for a specific scenario, that you are in fact focusing on the specific scenario. There are hundreds of types of glues, and which one you should use depends on the materials you are dealing with and what kind of bond and strength you need. As I mentioned in other comments, you could apply this same idea to substances other than glue, such as two-part silicones or urethanes which can have other effects. You could essentially embed silicone bumpers into parts, or silicone bands that allow the part to flex once you snap small sections. There are so many applications for what is shown in this video, other than the example in the video which is not a particularly useful one itself. It's about the tools, not the specific example.

@charlesstaton8104

17 күн бұрын

@@802Garage ok fine, let's say I'm focused on this example. That peg, that hole, those long, thick, spiral channels, and THAT glue. What is THAT glue? What glue would be used in this very specific example?

@802Garage

17 күн бұрын

@@charlesstaton8104 If you want it to stick like crazy and be strong? Cyanoacrylate would certainly work, but would be way overkill for the large channels. I'd probably go with a standard 2 part epoxy like BSI-201. There are plenty of options that would work to overkill this task.

I think another benefit you missed would be to put matching divots/rings on both parts and then inject the glue into them. Once hardened, the glue would have to compress or shear before the part came out. Way stronger than anything holding in tension, as is typical of glue. Same goes for non-round holes. Why round? You don't have to machine it. Make it some kind of polygon and you've got alignment registration on top of increased glue area. Your previous flexible splined hole to get a tight tolerance on a shaft would be awesome if injected with glue after. Same goes for a minor friction or spring-clip assembly that self-clamps the parts in place. Print, assemble to lock the parts together, then inject glue to make it permanent. No fiddling or holding together while gluing. No clamping after. Rebar? Yeah... shove something actually strong in tension during assembly then fill with glue. Even lengths of filament shoved in oversized or square holes would add a lot of strength.

Snapfit plus glue,

Goddam, you are the 3D goat!

Lots of comments saying “you need to minimise the amount of glue”. Sort of. Depends on the glue. Gap filling adhesives are fine in gaps (eg ct1, fixall) most glues have a maximum as well as minimum amount you can use. Eg anaerobic glues sheer thin very well, but cyanocrylates below a certain thickness do not - hence if glueing a shaft into a bearing - anaerobic glues are preferred … Anyway my point is - check the characteristics of the glue you’re going to use - and fold that into the design . I think this is a very interesting video to get one thinking. The specifics will come down to the glue you use. The rebar analogy I think is a bit meh / but again depends on the characteristics of the glue eg isn’t brittle or not … Thanks for another thought provoking video.

@slant3d

18 күн бұрын

Nicely summed up. Thank you

I love these design ideas!!!!! Keep em coming man!

Cool😊

Increased surface area can be achieved with fuzzy skin.

These types of channels are common place in grease and lubrication applications. Expensive to drill but necessary.

@slant3d

19 күн бұрын

That too!

@j.f.christ8421

18 күн бұрын

Yeah, but not for gluing.

@802Garage

17 күн бұрын

Now grease channel is great idea! See! It's not so hard for people to think about thinking and connect knowledge instead of just crapping on every idea they don't understand.

Silly.

@chrismay2298

19 күн бұрын

Indeed. Lots of shenanigans going on here...

Truly next level design for gluing parts together, thank you for providing this content!

I would love to see these various methods tested... All of these seem significantly weaker than a traditional glue joint that just simply maximizes surface area contact. All of these ideas seem to have significant flaws and are solving problems that shouldn't have existed in the first place

I could see having channels/voids as a place for excessive glue to flow into without causing pressure or leaking. Otherwise, hmm.

The music was a bit distracting in this one

@JonS

19 күн бұрын

What music?

Great content!

@slant3d

18 күн бұрын

Thanks for watching

2:00 "It's able to 'come' out the sides" 😳😅

Easier to 3D print threads. Why re-invent a square wheel.

Honestly, this is an over engineered solution to a problem that doesnt exist Most all of these wouldnt do anything beneficial and would be weaker than just,,, gluing parts together More surface areas means more strength, dont think glue works like rebar. Im pretty sure it would just snap And it’d take a lot more glue to fill the gaps

:(

That's also not the best CAD to showcase adding these features as you literally draw what you want and bam it's there... do that in solidworks or fusion that ez

nope

Nah

Oof

If you're going to make strength claims, you really need to prove it by testing parts. You'd be far better off to design a cam that locks under a ledge, and the glue blocks the return - if you wanted to insist on these giant glue channels. you'd be far better off to make non round geometries with mating embossing, and use the glue like it was intended. Then have a relief near the top of the hole to take squeeze out. But without testing, this is meaningless content.

This ist pure BS. That ist not how adhesives work.

Mind=blown. Gabe, you need to write a book.