Excellent progress and great video. Very helpful 👍👍👍

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks 👍

I'd use a machinists scribe to mark out the edges of the windows using the template, then a pin vise to drill out the centres and finally a needle file with a square cross section to file out to the edges that I'd scribbed. I've made similar square / rectangular holes when scratch building and it's slow work. I also use an LED ring light with magnifyer in the middle as well wearing reading glasses; prior to that set up, it was very hit and miss.

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Antony

She is looking good. I'm enjoying the build

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Marc

Cool. I remember this ship from the TOS Technical Manual.

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah it was one of my favorites from the tech manual

Coming along very nicely O! Nice working your way through the trouble spots so far. Definitely like your second mix of color for the ship. And, thanks for pointing people in our direction :)

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Your welcome, thanks for the compliments. I meabt to post the link to the board too, will do so. Thanks Kenny

This is a Cool conversion. I like you showing exactly how your doing it. Nice Work!!! I'll be watching

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you

Hi Interstellar modeller I'm not commenting on the Ptolemy hope you don't mind but I've just watched you Hasbro xwing conversion and it was brilliant I'm a modeller myself and stubbled across it and noticed it was a few years ago now but it was excellent 👍👍 we have the best hobby in the world , from the UK

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for your kind words. And yes our hobby is awesome!

I miss model masters paint too. I used 50/50 flat white and light gray, I called it federation base👍🏻🖖🏻

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah I really liked the light gray shade

Looking good.

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you

Good to see your face! Love your videos!

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you

Hey Oggie🙂 I hope this finds you well. Enjoyed this half of your build and look forward to the next. Happy Weekend Take care

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Tim. Doing fine here and hope you're doing well. Glad you enjoyed this part, completion should be up by next weekend.

@Tim-57

2 жыл бұрын

@@InterstellarModeler You are welcome. I am doing pretty well. Hope you and Family have a great Sunday.

Looking great so far Sir. I've had the same issue with some tiny drill bits. Just makes me wonder how the dentist do it. LOL I'm gonna have to try that UV resin. Keep up the great work.

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you

Get yourself one of those Tamiya drill kits, I have 3, and I used one to put 6500 holes into my Zvezda SD, they turn at a decent speed for styrene, won't burn it, and can take any Dremel collet for bits.

@SeaYaSailing

2 жыл бұрын

also look into dental resin for clear to translucent resin

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks. I actually have one. Just don't have the right collets to hold small enough drill bits

When I made my 1/1000 scale enterprise, I made rotating bussard by putting 6 402 SMD’s on a round piece of styrene and hooked them up to an arduino board to give the rotating effect. Looks cool, but my lenses are painted, not airbrushed, so they are an uneven colour. Also hooked the 2 3mm leds to the board to flash the navigation lights on the main hull!

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Impressive. The HLI circuit board will work great for the nav lights. Appreciate you watching, thanks

Those tiny holes are a bear!

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Yes for sure

It's always tricky lighting these small scale kits, I think I would have been tempted to use the window templates on the neck ,by cutting out the whole section as it's a fairly flat shape and epoxying the template in place ,then you would have superb precision ready made windows. That's if you do get both sides in the photo etch kit.

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Interesting suggestion thanks.

👍

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Travis

One way to slow down a Dremel is to run the power cord through a sewing machine foot pedal to adjust your speed. Not sure if it would have helped here, but it's a thought.

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Really….hmm interesting tip thanks

Nice work. Although I'd like to suggest much safer "Liquitex Modeling Paste" over the use of Auto Body Putty, since it's toxic.

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Will look into that. Thanks

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Terry

I've been hacking away at my "Moon Bath" back splash. I had to hold down the Unobtainium gauge and the battery packs. Turns out Auto Zone and Wally-World have JB Weld UV glue. It's cheap too! It seems to cure clear. There is this little UV pen light attached to each bottle. I'll bet that would not only have made the Saucer ports but filed the windows. There is not much in the bottle but it has this long skinny snoot to apply glue. You put this stuff in and hit it with the little flashlight. It is exothermic ( I think that's right). It makes a wisp of vapor and locks up tighter than a 2-year-old on a cheese binge. The cure takes about as long as it took to type the last sentence. I can't detect any shrinkage either. Don't bother trying to bond metal with it. I tried to bond a quarter-twenty nut to the bottom of one of my Blink cameras so I could spy on the LASER cutter. No joy, cracked right off. I had to fall back to good old grey JB for that application.

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

interesting tip there, thanks

Just a comment for the algorithm

So is Model Masters and Testors paints no longer? I haven't been to the hobby shop in a while. Last time I was there, the employee told me that Rustoleum bought out those two companies and that they weren't very interested in making the model paints lines.

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Yep....that's my understanding. Last time I checked there were no bottles left on the shelf at my nearby model store either

@outsider238

2 жыл бұрын

@@InterstellarModeler Wow! They've been around for a long time too. I'm going to have to break down and buy an airbrush so I can just use paints designed for those I guess.

Would a reflective paint inside the saucer help with light dispersion?

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

I doubt it would in this case. The light is at least coming through the lower windows and the area around the bridge.

At 10:38 you talk about using a clear coat to make things easier. Not fully understanding... are you saying to apply the clear coat prior to the bondo, thus making the cleaning process easier or are you applying the clear coat after the bondo?

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Sorry about the confusion. In hindsight it would’ve been better to leave out that comment. Typically i address any seams first then apply the base color followed by a gloss clear. What goofed up the sequence with the saucer was the filling in of the rectangular panels with the UV resin. To avoid having to mask them, I thought it would’ve been easier to apply the base color then fill in with the resin.Turns out the rectangular panels were not hard to mask with liquid masking fluid, something I had to end up doing when I changed the base color. At 10:38, I was just pointing out that it was helpful to have coated the saucer because the red residue from the bondo easily brushed right off. I have no doubt it would have left streaks on a flat unprotected surface. I hope that clarifies this.

I’m currently building a Saladin class destroyer in honor of my father and a family friend who were involved in the Japan bombings. Her name is the USS Enola Gay (NCC 1945) and broke the main saucer dish post I was gonna use. What did u use for this post? I was gonna use a board game piece.

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

It’s a resin piece that comes with the conversion kit from PNT, found on Federationmodels. There’s no direct link. Go to their homepage then to model kits then PNT

I tripped over a gold mine at Harbor Freight. It is a tiny rotary tool. I bought an open box for 6 bucks. I think I have seen the new one for $20. It runs on a wall wart. The down side is speed. Something like a million RPM. (well not really but way faster than a Dremel.) It does not adjust. The up side is the set of tiny diamond tipped cut heads. I even use the cone shaped one to cut near perfect holes in paper. I poke a pilot hole then drill to size. There are also several tiny heads that would make fine work of styrene windows. Now that I think on it, I'll bet that since it has a weird jack in the middle of the cord, a DC bench power supply or a power potentiometer would make that booger speed adjustable. DC out of the wall wart is fairly easy to divide or regulate.

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Tim. Looks like you found a good deal on that drill

Things would have gone much better I think if you had used the AMT 1:650 scale Enterprise. It's a much nicer scale. The 1:1000 scale is just too small IMO

@InterstellarModeler

2 жыл бұрын

Actually the ship is almost completed and I think it’s gonna turn pretty well.