Sole Talk Sunday Different ways soles are attached to footwear. Goodyear welted, Blake Stitch & more

In this episode of Sole Talk Sunday we will slow down to talk about the different builds of shoes and boots in the way the sole are attached to them.
We will talk about Goodyear welted footwear (GYW) with the a number of styles such as Norwegian welt, Blind and Open Channel Stitch and others.
As well as Blake stitched soles, adhered soles and molded soles.
www.cobblersplus.com
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IG: @CobblersPlusCO

Пікірлер: 30

  • @frankrizzo7185
    @frankrizzo71854 жыл бұрын

    Very educational and thorough. Thank you.

  • @danjoe22
    @danjoe224 жыл бұрын

    Your videos are great. Long, but very informative, similar to what Steve at Bedo's does. Keep up the good work. I like also how you describe the ingredients in all the conditioners and polishes you use. It is good to know things and you provide a lot of information.

  • @hartlandshoes

    @hartlandshoes

    4 жыл бұрын

    artists can be very different but still accomplish the same results. Same for Cobblers. Why complain about how long a video is.

  • @thesharpercoder
    @thesharpercoder Жыл бұрын

    I think you overlooked “Stitch Down” construction, which is popular with custom PNW, Pacific Northwest, boot brands.

  • @gu5gu5
    @gu5gu52 жыл бұрын

    I truly appreciate the time you take to go thru all the details of your craft, vid was great! thank you for not doing crazy edits or using fancy music! jokes are fine tough haha

  • @NOLAZACK

    @NOLAZACK

    Жыл бұрын

    TLDR.....needs to be more concise and to the key points of the subject matter while still providing detail

  • @LouisWinthorpe622

    @LouisWinthorpe622

    Жыл бұрын

    @@NOLAZACK No it absolutely does not NEED to. Your definition of need and other people's definition of need must be very different. Maybe try working on your short little span of attention. Patience helps. If you can't do anything about your attention deficiency then I hear there is a platform called Tik-Tok for people with that modern day 'need for speed' kind of disorder but it's not very good for learning much or for people explaining the reasons for things, etc. This platform allows for videos to be over an hour so 40 something minutes is fine. It does not need to be shorter. You either need to patience or have an interest in the video or you need to be somewhere else. The video is what it is. If it doesn't suit you, then the only 'needs' that need to be altered, in some way, are at your end. He does bespoke shoe repairs but I don't think that bespoke video creation, to your personal requirements, are his bag.

  • @taratiwadi1532
    @taratiwadi1532 Жыл бұрын

    I love shoes and thank you for educating me i am 38 and still i love shoes more.... I cant buy the stuff that you make still i love it..... Your english is american... The only english i understand.

  • @kay139o
    @kay139o3 жыл бұрын

    Can a cemented boot be converted to a welted boot by adding a welt and so forth?

  • @EZBISME
    @EZBISME4 жыл бұрын

    Wow...never knew about the closed top stitch on the welt. I'm interested in hearing more information about how you reuse welt holes to preserve welts and why that is good. How hard is it to line up the interior and exterior stitching to reuse the holes (in the welt and uppers)? It could be useful to explain this, too, as a differentiation between a cobbler resole vs. a factory resole.

  • @CobblersPlus

    @CobblersPlus

    4 жыл бұрын

    It is something I could talk about in a resole video and would be better during that process to explain it on video. But for use cobblers it’s one of those things that takes years of practice to have the outsole stitcher line up with the original holes on the welt. Almost like a 6th sense. Factory resole they counter that by replacing the welt each time but the problem is they perforate the leather upper more with that where when we cobblers change the welt it is stitched by hand allowing us to find the original holes to stitch through

  • @liamvincent8066
    @liamvincent80664 жыл бұрын

    Stitch down is another great construction super weather proof and strong. It's kinda rare now but there is also nailed and pegged construction which is pretty interesting.

  • @CobblersPlus

    @CobblersPlus

    4 жыл бұрын

    True there are a few others I didn’t get to cover because the video was already long with the main constructions

  • @leq7137

    @leq7137

    4 жыл бұрын

    @@CobblersPlus Have you done shoes with veldtschoen or stitchdown construction? If so, would love to see how this is done as i have a pair that will need replacement.

  • @CobblersPlus

    @CobblersPlus

    4 жыл бұрын

    There not very common but I’ve worked on them before. Would be more than happy to work on a pair and if you are flexible on time a little with it would love to finally make a video on a pair 😁

  • @hartlandshoes

    @hartlandshoes

    4 жыл бұрын

    The stitch down is probably the more difficult of the styles of sole stitching.

  • @NOLAZACK
    @NOLAZACK Жыл бұрын

    Man, as a shoe guy I will always love and value this type of content. But my only critique is that being more concise, to the point, while also being able to provide the factual detail matter is far more efficient and effective.

  • @zachmiller9175

    @zachmiller9175

    Жыл бұрын

    The amount of off camera work (research and editing) that goes into the kind of video you're asking for is more than you'd think and probably more than he's able to manage alongside his actual business, most of his videos have pretty minimal editing, just my guess.

  • @guillermoanic
    @guillermoanic3 жыл бұрын

    Hello and thanks for the great content. I just received a pair of Cobbler Union boots with Vibram soles and it looks like a blind-stitched sole. I'm trying to contact CU to double check but you definitely cannot see any stitches on the outsoles. Might be that the mid sole is stitched and the final rubber sole is glued on but it looks very nice and sturdy

  • @CobblersPlus

    @CobblersPlus

    3 жыл бұрын

    Yea rubber soles don’t get blind stitching done so most likely it’s the mid sole stitched and sole glued witch still usually holds up very well

  • @guillermoanic

    @guillermoanic

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@CobblersPlus Yes! I checked with manufacturer and that's exactly how my boots are constructed. They ensured there should be no issues and I'm very pleased with the clean look of the outsoles with no stitching

  • @grahamrigg5332
    @grahamrigg53323 жыл бұрын

    Is it possible to convert a Blake stitched Florsheim to a Goodyear welted construction?

  • @johnwerner4925
    @johnwerner49253 жыл бұрын

    Not to be a smart*** I thought of one other kind of sole whichi is a combination of two distinct ways to attach outsoles. I'm referring to the Red Wing Shoe Company's Supersole which they develooped in-house and patented. I was a kid in the early seventies when we got our first boot with a this sole. It made an impression on me because at this time Red Wing was still largely a leather Goodyear welt company with some cement crepe midsole constructed boots (these included the Ted Williams boot for Sears and the iconic olive green Browning bird hunting boot made under contract). I wrote Red Wing a letter and the gist of it was why was the company going to cheaper welting like the lower cost brands of the day? I actually got a letter back and it explained the Supersole system had to depend on a chemical bonding reaction between the welt and the molded PU sole. A leather sole could not achieve the reaction which actually melted the welt and the PU sole to create a superstrong and saturated bond between the two. I know we cobblers figured out ways to resole these Supersole Red Wings. The usual way is to carefully cut away the PU sole at a point leaving enough material for a robust welt. Sometimes because of the expansiion of the PU material into the boot quite deeply it becomes quite tedious. Also sometime the edge trimming of the Red Wing finishers would get too aggressive leaving a very slim welt to stitch to (by the same token I've seen the width of the welt actually wider than conventional welts on the same boot where some areas were quite narrow). I think Red Wing likely originally figured the factory resoling service would be the service of choice for the owner as until recent years Red Wing seemed to still be quite invested in their in-house repair shop (I've seen this streamlined over time with the example being years ago I could order a style to be modified in the repair shop such as the insertion of an orthopedic build-up straight from the factiory or other mods...this is no longer available to me as an independent Red Wing dealer). I'll finish this with my respect for Red Wing creating a very unique sole system that was still Goodyear welted. It cost them quite a lot of money to do this for the engineering of the equipment and myriad sets of molds. Even after their patent expired it was this extreme expense that kept other companies from copying this hybrid Goodyear welt/molded Poly-Urethane sole system.

  • @EditHandleError
    @EditHandleError4 жыл бұрын

    When resole a Goodyear welt will that create more holes on the welt or new stitching should go into the previous stitching holes?

  • @CobblersPlus

    @CobblersPlus

    4 жыл бұрын

    The goal of a cobbler is to aim for the original holes but it is a very difficult task as the shoes or boots are stitched Upsideown. But even if the original holes are missed here in there the welt should hold up anywhere between 3-6 resole jobs before finally needing replaced

  • @TimKollat
    @TimKollat3 жыл бұрын

    Are Danner boots, the made in Portland OR models, a good boot? They are stitchdown. I was debating in them or thorogood for my next workbook and went with Danner just because I got a very good deal on them

  • @CobblersPlus

    @CobblersPlus

    3 жыл бұрын

    Danner boots are good especially for the price. Personally though I like a separate welt more because after time the welt can be replaced where a stitch down there’s not to much that can be done ones it starts giving out.

  • @abdoukadour4956
    @abdoukadour49563 жыл бұрын

    Is it possible to resole the caterpillar colorado boot which is goodyear welt constructed ? What are good brands boot that can be reseled many times easly?

  • @CobblersPlus

    @CobblersPlus

    3 жыл бұрын

    We should be able to but just comes down to if it is worth it or not. Top brands we recommend are Redwing, Thursday Boots, Daner, Wolverine 1000 mile

  • @taratiwadi1532
    @taratiwadi1532 Жыл бұрын

    If you were in India i might have been your best deciple ... But i will never work in your country because i love my place .... And same goes for you.