Thanks for taking the time to explain . I always wondered what Expensive controllers did

Thanks for sharing! That helps my understanding how these controllers are working.

I was looking for a tutorial on how slot cars controllers work and what wheels are for. Very clear your explanations. Thank you! Very useful.

@morganmotorsports4220

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching

Great video Zack! Very informative and helpful. Excellent job!

@morganmotorsports4220

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

You got a good thing going here with your channel. Awesome info for everyone in the hobby. Keep it up!! Rob

@morganmotorsports4220

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Rob!

Answered a lot of questions for me. Thanks for the info. Just got into slots and a guy leant me his controller. It was quite clear that there is no reason to tune a car until you have a tunable controller.

If you're going to spend $139 for that DS controller, pony up another $60 for the Difalco DD-201 and get something that can be repaired and upgraded. Buy cheap, buy twice. :) Jim is super helpful and a true asset to this hobby!

Amazing how much hasn't changed since 1969! Same Russkit style controllers. It will be interesting to get back into slot car racing.

@Gma7788

Жыл бұрын

Interesting? Racing is full on aggression. You're way too casual.

In radio control airplane hobby, there is a feature called "expo" which is used to trim responsiveness / movement of the control surfaces vs the amount of stick movements needed for desired control surface deflection.

@morganmotorsports4220

4 ай бұрын

Yes we use the same EXPO adjustment in RC car racing well. It is a useful function!

So much great information

Really great video

Thanks for this video- very helpful for someone like me looking to get started! I think I’ve narrowed down my choices to either a Difalco DD271 or the Third Eye Hitman. Eventually I’d like to get into Group 12 cars but will probably start with Group F. Would one controller be better suited than the other for eventual use with Group 12 wing cars? Thanks again

Wow greaf info thanks!!

The current cost of controllers is mind blowing! I still have all my gear from the '90s but no local tracks.🤨

@raylantrace5626

2 жыл бұрын

i realize it is kind of randomly asking but does anybody know a good place to watch new movies online?

@brodybrysen9773

2 жыл бұрын

@Raylan Trace Flixportal :)

@raylantrace5626

2 жыл бұрын

@Brody Brysen Thank you, I signed up and it seems like a nice service :) I really appreciate it !

@brodybrysen9773

2 жыл бұрын

@Raylan Trace glad I could help :)

Do you know if the Difalco DD-201 will work with a Carrera analog track? If not, any suggestions for a trigger analog controller that will work? Thanks.

Is a rollout control on 1/24 scale drag racing controller power that's redirected through a rheostat with a switch. thank you

"traction control" seems to act almost like a clutch on 3rd controller unit shown. How cool is that??

What would be a good pistol grip? controller for a Carrera evolution analog 1/32 track set?

@skidmarkdoaonfire7951

2 жыл бұрын

Use the old Parma controllers and put 35 or 45 ohm resistors in them or Ds makes them in that rating. Use 4mm banana plugs to plug directly into track. Harder for kids to break and more realistic design and feel.

Getting back into slot cars after a 30 year break. Controllers are very confusing to me right now. I raced wing cars back in the day. Thinking of starting my son and I into LMP and moving myself back up to wing. Sounds like the Difalco might be my best bet? I've to only by one controller that will work for multiple classes?

@morganmotorsports4220

3 жыл бұрын

This would be a great bet. I highly recommend contacting your local shop or Jim Difalco directly to get exactly what you need.

@patriot1902

3 жыл бұрын

@@morganmotorsports4220 great! How do I get ahold Jim? I dont mind spending a little more now then having to upgrade again later as I progress?

@morganmotorsports4220

3 жыл бұрын

@@patriot1902 just visit Difalcoonline.com!

@Gma7788

Жыл бұрын

Racing is spending money to win.

I drove 1/24 wing car group 12 for 20 years. After I became club champion I stopped and started RC Modelflying. Now, 5 years later I will start again and stay. I sold all my controllers. So what would be my best buy. My Blue King track record is still 3,00 econds.

Those are all nice but Just to level the playing field why not just use the old Parma controllers? Takes more skill. But nice presentation on how the newer controllers work.

@Gma7788

Жыл бұрын

What's this 'old' thing you say? I have brand new parma controller. The shop didn't even want to sell me it.

@skidmarkdoaonfire7951

Жыл бұрын

@@Gma7788 I hear ya. I have a box full of different type parma controllers. Some moded some new in box but all great!

I dislike the words “brake choke” as they aren’t helpful in describing what it does. It is basically a maximum brake setting that gives minimum resistance under braking by using a relay. So whilst braking the motor actually generates some electricity (“back EMF”} in the armature and by “shorting the motor out” this force fights against the motor magnets causing the armature to decelerate quickly, a sort of magnetic drag. Reducing resistance in the braking circuit allows the maximum back EMF and max possible deceleration from the motor.

@84westy55

2 жыл бұрын

You're completely correct. However, old terms die hard in this hobby and there doesn't seem to be an overall willingness to learn about "new" things. Most slot racers are not "electronics" hobbyists. I have a PowerHouse slot controller that was designed and built around the year 2000. It is entirely PWM based because it is uses the same chips as Mercedes-Benz did in their anti-lock brake system. It uses a 45 ohm controller at control signal voltage levels. Literally, no actual current ever passes through the handle. The 18AWG wires of the Parma Economy controller I bought for it are more than ample and the circuitry inside can more than handle any currents that any slot car motor can pull. It doesn't have a choke and it doesn't have a heatsink because there's literally no heat to dissipate. If you want a "choke", you add a pot inline in the trigger circuit. If you want a "mush" button, just add a momentary switch that shorts the motor signal. Heck, you can technically set the Top Speed Limiter (which is what that is) to the fastest speed that you can stay on the track's curves, then only hit the button on the straights. It has an Active Brake switch that will let you apply your selected brake level when you slow down, but don't release all the way to the brake band. For cars without very good braking that coast into the turns too fast, you can slow the car down just the amount you need without resorting to full end brake. The braking is achieved through PWM grounding just like the motor power. (Shocking, I know, but it's literally an open loop, anti-lock brake system!) One extremely experienced racer who helped me better understand (not that I fully do) how a car should react actually told me that the stopping speed was unlike anything he'd ever seen. It also has a "Response" curve that changes the slope of the trigger response from linear to a logarithmic scale. The things sold for $199. Pretty amazing capabilities, but typical racers just didn't "get" it since it didn't include a controller and it will run everything from HO up to Group 27. It didn't fit into the mold of what people expected. I can't tell you how many times I've heard "Whelp, it's your money if you want to blow that dumb thing up!" or "You're going to melt that controller!" or "Forty five ohms is for HOME use!" or some other apoplectic dispersion of "knowledge". When I explain the details, they tend to gloss over. I have received a few "Hmmm, that's really cool." over the years, but typically just get ignored after I run a Group 12 motor and nothing blows up as they predicted.

Hi

so get the epoxy and the dremel out and modify the trigger...looks like a bargain to me.