One of the main reasons I hollow prints is that it reduces the peel forces at play during the print as the layers are smaller. Less peel force translates to lower chance of print failure as well as print imperfections, i.e. print lines. Also, I like to use some infill (10%) as it provides strength and rigidity to the printed model. The infill also acts as internal supports, which again reduces chance of print failure. Downside is, will have to flush insides very well to ensure that there is no trapped resin. So far, I haven't found UV curing the internals to be necessary. So long as there is no trapped resin and the holes are not covered afterwards (so that any gases from de-gassing would not be trapped inside), the model will not explode or burst open.

@greedy3d480

Жыл бұрын

I do like to use supports internally just to rule out the possibility of islands and failures... the good thing about our hobby is there's lots of ways to achieve the same result

This is an extremely helpful video and I just want to say thank you so much 😊 The first week I got my printer, I hollowed out a model, unaware of the necessary drain holes. I actually dropped the model from a big height accidentally, and when it broke apart, uncured resin went everywhere ! A lesson learnt 😅

@greedy3d480

Жыл бұрын

your welcome - the 3d printing game is a learning curve indeed :)

I made a different process that i like a lot currently: Add a big hole at the bottom, add a small 2mm hole at the very top. So air/resin can go through the holes. Also print an extra cylinder that is 1,9mm at the top and 2,1mm at the bottom. After it finishes printing, wait 30 minutes so all resin can drip out of the the small hole. Clean everything with IPA, insert the cylinder into the small hole and glue it so it's airtight. Then add white alabaster plaster through the large hole at the bottom into the object. It makes it durable, gives it weight - which makes it feel more valuable, and protects you and others from uncured resin that's in the inside.

@greedy3d480

Жыл бұрын

Thank you for sharing 👍

@ArthurBandeira1

3 күн бұрын

Hello! I tried filling my print with plaster and the model cracked, I'm guessing because of the humidity of the plaster for a prolongued time. I take it you never had any problems with that?

@Gromic2k

3 күн бұрын

@@ArthurBandeira1 Normally this isn't a problem, but I also have a cracked print too where the material has expanded. The difference was that I used cement that I had lying around - that expanded, the paster did fine until now. So it could be the material.

@ArthurBandeira1

2 күн бұрын

@@Gromic2k I see. Could be the type of plaster I'm using then. Thanks for your answer!

Very clear and helpful. I don’t have plans yet for doing large models, but now I don’t have to be quite so afraid of them 😎

Love the LED idea for making sure the inside is cured, never seen that before👍

I usually will put drain holes at the opposite ends of the model to allow air to enter on one end and allow the resin to drain out the other end. Once the print is finished, I'll submerge the print in a vat of IPA until the model if full of IPA and then shake the devil out of it to wash the resin out of the inside, of course, being careful to cover the drain holes with my fingers so IPA doesn't go flying everywhere! I will then use some canned air to blow the interior dry. Then I'll usually let the print set out overnight with one of the drain holes at the lowest point to allow any IPA (or resin) to drain out that I might have missed. However, with your portable LEDs, I might be able to forgo that last step!! Thanks for sharing!!

@greedy3d480

Жыл бұрын

Thank you for your insight too 👍

Drain holes should be made in best case scenario where the uncured resin will flow to. Like the lowest corner point. Also keep in mind the physics. There is pressure coming up when moving into the bath and outwards. This can lead to print failures. But drain holes make the pressure to excape. Gravity force.

Great video as usual. I find using the medium supports works great and they’re much easier to get off than the heavy supports. I will do all mediums and then I’ll sprinkle in about ten heavies in critical areas. Thank you and keep up the great work

@greedy3d480

10 ай бұрын

Great advice thank you for that I sometimes do exactly that too I think it depends on what print are you using on my gk2 I've had no problems using medium supports 👍

Great video. I have switched to using an infill of 5% instead of supports for the interior when hollowing. I haven't ran into any issues so far and I found that I clean clean the inside better and not worry about trapped resin. Great model choice btw. I love Wicked pieces. I'm working on their Juggernaut breaking through the wall right now.

@greedy3d480

Жыл бұрын

Thank you I have considered using infill instead of supports but I always find I'm on a bit of a winning Formula and then I don't want to break it lol

I knew i recognized the sculpt, I just love wicked their models.

@greedy3d480

Жыл бұрын

Oh they truly are fab 👍

I hollow them out when possible, it makes the model lighter so it won't stress the supports. I also use hollow blockers for small areas so they don't fill with resin and explode later. Just have to wash it really well especially inside then use little UV leds to cure the inside. I also use 10mm & 5mm holes.

@greedy3d480

Жыл бұрын

👍 Yeah heavy models pull off the supports much easier

I liked your vid a lot. I use Halotbox and wondered why it refused to make holes so many times. I’ll now try smaller holes. The syringe for washing out the inside of the model is also good. I’ll use water as I use water washable resins. I also bought some very small UV keychain LED:s for trying to harden the inside of the models through some bigger holes. Greetings from Finland!

@greedy3d480

11 ай бұрын

Thank you for your comments greetings from the UK its amazing a hobby Bridges the gaps across the world 👍😁

Very interesting and informative video, thank you. The only thing I have to do is try and use my resin printer (had it for 2 years now, still in the box)! LOL! Thank you again for the video.

@greedy3d480

4 ай бұрын

You are most welcome

Very helpful. Exactly the same thing I do. If you have an air compressor I use an air nozzle to blow out the hollowed parts. :)

@greedy3d480

Жыл бұрын

That is really really brilliant idea thank you

@alancox4347

Жыл бұрын

@@greedy3d480 I use an airbrush

I wonder if you can make a super thin wall and then fill the model with plaster ? that way save more money on resin

I use 5% infill. It creates just enough skeletal internal structure to properly support the inside of the model. Internal supports aren’t used. So you use even less resin. This is just with Chitubox. Lychee internal supports are garbage.

Sometimes its not practical to have drain holes top and bottom, so if you had one option, should yo add holes nearest the build plate or furthest away? Could you also to a vid on when to use a raft Please, I seem to have got into the habbit of always using them after initial failures when I first got the printer.

@greedy3d480

Жыл бұрын

I would say doesn't really matter where the whole goes as long as when you finished with the print you clean and drain it properly as for a raft they are a choice thing you don't desperately need them but they do apparently allow adhesion to the bed a little better so if you are having problems then add a draft but it's probably down to just get in your base layer settings correct

A very good and informative video. 😊

@greedy3d480

Жыл бұрын

Cheers Steve 👍😁

cool!!! what software do you use when putting those holes in the model?

@greedy3d480

5 ай бұрын

It's in Cura.... Hole option

That LED UV trick is amazing! Does it matter if the drain holes are near the start of the models printing which is pretty much connected to the build plate? so would the model be filling while printing. Or does that not matter and just having drain holes so when complete the model is tipped up and can empty. thanks

@greedy3d480

2 ай бұрын

Doesn't matter at all 👍👍👍

@jamiebestminiatures

2 ай бұрын

@@greedy3d480 awesome. Thanks for the swift reply

I'm new to resin printing, just waiting for my printer to arrive. I'm confused about if it's possible to print a solid model for something that I need to be structurally very strong? For instance just a solid block like a brick. I assume the uv curing light could not penetrate the exterior to have any effect on the interior of the block?

@greedy3d480

Жыл бұрын

Printing solid is fine but has a few issues.. Weight may pull it off supports, uses lots of resin too... If strength is an issue there are strong resins.. I'm doing a video review on strong resin soon... But to sum up printing solid is not an issue... We hollow to save resin in a nutshell 👍

Can you link how you made the UV diodes? How many do you need per battery pack, etc?

@greedy3d480

11 ай бұрын

I may do this in a forth coming video but it's really really easy I just use five LEDs a 9 volt battery and an on/off switch all wired together it's really simple to do just needs to be played with a little bit if you're not sure

Hey mate! Love your videos! I'm posting this comment a little in the wrong place, but wondered if I could ask your advice on something? (Maybe it'll give you an idea for a video!). So I've just got my first 3D printer, haven't even unboxed it yet. My question is regarding control the temperature during a print job. I live in the South West England, and outside temperatures have almost reached 20C. My indoor house temperature has been kept on 18C all winter. The bottle of resin I have suggests I operate at 22C to 25C range (maybe even towards 30!!). How important is temperature? How do you control for it? I will be using my printer in my garage, which essentially will only hit 20c naturally during the summer months... I'd like to be able to use it throughout the winter, but without heating my entire garage constantly (which will cost). I'd be interested to hear anyone else's comments too! Cheers!!

@greedy3d480

Жыл бұрын

Hey mate welcome to the club now printing in low temperatures is something that you might get away with I've certainly got away with it here in the Western Midlands printing in rooms of just a few degrees some people get a little bit tetchy about printing in low temperatures but if you to all you've got then have a goatie I would say if you can keep the room temperature around about 20 degrees you should be absolutely fine and it will print in temperatures lower I've also just used a hair dryer over the resin in the VAT just a warm it up enough to get the print started then it seems to work absolutely fine and I've been doing this for years👍👍

@joshpheth-hubb2414

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for taking the time to reply! I appreciate the advice and will take it on board. Thanks!

If you use transparant resin, does the UV from normal curing reach the entire model? Or does the UV gets absorbed. If you will paint it anyway, you can use transparant resin and you don't have to do anything special in terms of curing with the hollow model?

@greedy3d480

11 ай бұрын

The curing seems to work just fine and I don't do anything any different I Tend not to hollow out transparent resins although there are occasions when I do do it when I do hollow them I use a small LED inside no difference to my other resins

Is it absolutely necessary? I'm planning on using a resin printer to print rather small things like velociraptor teeth. I'd prefer solid parts

@greedy3d480

6 ай бұрын

No it's not at all necessary to hollow... Leave them solid if it's right for you and your models

May as well make it solid with all those supports inside😂😂😂😂😂

@greedy3d480

10 ай бұрын

Lol..

I never get bad prints hollow the models without internal supports

@greedy3d480

Жыл бұрын

I won't risk that 👍😁

Where did you get the UV lights you used for the inside?

@greedy3d480

Ай бұрын

Amazon 👍

@bradsmith9867

Ай бұрын

@@greedy3d480 Apologies, I'm rather new to it all. Could you point me to the item or give what to search for to get them?

@greedy3d480

Ай бұрын

@@bradsmith9867 No worries - amzn.to/3ynjCYI

It just seems easier to print solid. Besides the usage of resin, and the peel force… would resin really get trapped inside the model if it’s completely solid inside?

@greedy3d480

Жыл бұрын

If you print solid you mitigate the risk of Resin being trapped inside. If money is no issue for resin or if the weight of the model does not bother you and of course the risk you are quite right of the extra forces on your fep or supports then there's no point in Hollowing.... my approach is most definitely to hollow but of course do it correctly

@xmavrekx8663

Жыл бұрын

@@greedy3d480 yeah i just had another print failure. I like the weight of a solid print for statues and figurines but i only got a solid print to work 3x. I guess I’ll have to try hollowing… Great vid. Thanks

ive been resin printing for years, watched a ton of videos on the subject as well. and i have to say....your workstation is the messiest i have ever seen.... :) thanks for the vid! keep it up!

@greedy3d480

Жыл бұрын

Ah damn it no sleep for me tonight with worry lol.... Thanks.... I think 👍🤣🤣🤣

@MrRuan2022

Жыл бұрын

@@greedy3d480 hahaha no insult intended by the way! ;)

@greedy3d480

Жыл бұрын

@@MrRuan2022 lol deffo none taken 😎😁👍