I love your little jokes and personality I feel like we would have fun sewing together or just being silly! Thanks for another helpful vid! Edit: Shift gears 🤣🤣🤣

In the middle of making my second shift, first time following along with your videos. Just wanted to say, thanks!!! What seemed terribly complicated and overly difficult the first time around is much easier with your expert guidance! I love all your tutorials.

I cant beleive how helpful this is. I have allready made 3 of these shifts but i cant wait to start another. Love it

I'm absolutely loving this series!! Thank you all for filming them 😁😁

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

4 жыл бұрын

Our pleasure!

Thank you so much for this wonderfully interesting and informative sew along series. I can't wait to show off my finished 18th century kit - my first foray into historical costuming!

i am so happy to be able to view these videos. Just wonderful! I am a weaver and volunteer at a local historical farm. Your videos on how to make historical clothing are so helpful!

Love the blue hair!!! These are so great. Thank you! 😊

Only just found your series...wish I'd found it BEFORE I cut! :) Very helpful, subscribed and hoping for more.

My Nana used to sew costumes for stage shows at the founders theatre in New Zealand... I still have a flower girl dress she made for me when I was about 7! I ended up having a daughter myself, who also wore it until it didn't fit her anymore! (I also do a TON of family research) and it turns out quite a few of my direct ancestors were tailoress' and shoemakers. Another ancestor of mine is Joseph Devereux, who owned a hating business, and he made hats and gloves for his majesty the king, her royal higness the duchess of Gloucester, and prince George of Cambridge in the 1830's! I swear sewing and creating just runs so thick in my DNA!

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

3 жыл бұрын

That’s fabulous! Thanks for sharing!

Thank you. I have loved these. By the way.... I’m from Buffalo, NY and living in Charleston, SC. So I completely understand your having heatstroke too.

If you are having trouble stitching from the body side (because it is hard to see the offset that way), watch Sewn Stories KZread tutorial on reverse back stitch. If you use that method, you can stitch on the offset side of the seam.

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing!

I kept hearing your Company name, but I had no idea what your company did or that you had a KZread channel. Thank you so much for your interesting and very informative videos.

Thank you for this video. Just one suggestion. Say or indicate if you're putting right sides together and which side you want the felling to face. Like pull the felling to the back or fold felling to the front and stitch. Or felling stitches go toward the gussets.

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

10 ай бұрын

We hear you! We plan on doing a short video to clear up some of the little details (like inserting gussets) as a supplement to this sew along so be sure to subscribe to get updates!

You can use a friction colored pen for marking. It is removed with the medium hot iron. I use them for quilting.

Thank you so much for this awesome video! If possible, I'd like to see a few close-ups of the stitches used in the making, to gauge the size of them. Thank you!

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

4 жыл бұрын

Christina is doing somewhere around 12-14 stitches per inch taking up around 2-3 threads per stitch. You'll want to choose your stitches per inch based on your own fabric selection, but 2-3 threads per stitch will give you a really solid seam for this garment.

@101Tribal

4 жыл бұрын

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Thank you so much! :)

Thank you for these next few steps. You did a lovely job explaining each step and why. I just have one tiny request. Could you zoom in more at where the gussets and gores attach to the body and sleeves. I tried to stop and zoom in, but I couldn't seen enough detail. I think I understand how its supposed to look; the stitching is all hidden inside the garment with no visible stitching outside (yes?). Your hand stitching is excellent.

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

4 жыл бұрын

Sheryl F yes no stitching outside. I show a close up in our just published Live if that helps

@SherylFZsmom

4 жыл бұрын

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Thank you so much.

I'm sure this was asked and answered somewhere but I simply cannot find it. Which linen thread do you recommend for this project, the 60/2 or the 35/2? Obviously the 80/2 would be for something fine, like the upcoming cap project. This whole series is amazing! Thank you!

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

4 жыл бұрын

Amanda Clay the 60/2 is a great unless you are working with a coarse or heavy linen

When it comes to set in the side gores, there is another way described in some books or "tutorials": They tell you to ALWAYS put a straight edge to a bias edge . So you don't end up with two bias edges coming together in one seam, esp. the long side seam. Does this rule only apply to gored skirts? Is it optional? Dont't you see it on shifts from the 18th cent. ?

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

4 жыл бұрын

In shifts that survive from the 18th century, the selvedges often make up one edge of the gore (the straight edge in this instance) and the edge of the body to which the gore is stitched. The two selvedge edges are whipped together with a tiny whip stitch and then opened flat for a nearly invisible seam, so not matching a straight to bias. The straight to bias concept doesn't work so well with the geometry of the shift gores as they are cut this way because the hypotenuse (bias edge) would be much too long to match either the straight edge on the body or the leg of the other triangle (gore). Gored skirts are typically cut in such a way that the length differentials are factored into the pattern (and often the hems are curved to accommodate/assist this). We can't say for certain why the 18th century seamstress did it this way (I don't know that any of them wrote about this in their letters/journals unfortunately 😆), apart from that it seems economy of fabric might have outweighed any concerns over sagging at the side seam (particularly on an undergarment that wouldn't be visible). At least, nobody was talking about it in a way that makes it seem frowned upon just yet. 😁

@petronellasblauerzwirn2351

4 жыл бұрын

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Thanks a lot for your answer. That's what I call EXPERTISE.

Have only just found you via Bernadette Banner, thank you so much for this, it's amazing! I hope this doesn't sound stupid but I have difficulty keeping to straight lines if they're not marked, could I draw a thread and use that as my stitching line? Or would it weaken the the seam?

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

3 жыл бұрын

You could draw a thread and then stitch in from the drawn thread.

Hi, I have a newbie question about hem sizes and how they're measured. I get lost in the videos. If you fold up 1/4" and baste and then fold over again and hemstitch is that a 1/4" hem or a 1/2" hem. On the cap if you fold over 1/4" and then fold that over on itself is that a 1/4" hem or a 1/8" hem? Is it the size of the final "hem" width or the amount of the fabric "used" in the hem from the raw edge? Yes....I am a math person. Thank you so much, am really liking the tutorials! They are easy to follow and very helpful for someone new to hand stitching.

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

Жыл бұрын

Great question! I would say we all go by the idea that if you fold 1/4 inch then fold again it's a 1/4 inch hem, so the size of the final hem width. ❤️

@jypsystudio4812

Жыл бұрын

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Fantastic, that helps a lot. Thanks!

Hi there, stitching the mini version here. Apologies if I've overlooked something, but I don't think it's actually stated and I'm unable to decipher it on the white on white--Does the folded seam allowance ultimately lay towards the gusset or the sleeve? It seems to change as the video goes along. Is it getting stitched down to the gusset/sleeve, or simply to itself--encased, but "free standing" like a french seam? -Kate

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Kate! Sorry for the delay! It is stitched down folded in towards the gusset, not free standing.

Does sewing on the sleeve side instead of the gusset side make a difference? I’m not doing an offset and I marked sewing lines on both sides to ensure even stitches. As a beginner, my lines are really wonky without the marked lines.

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

4 жыл бұрын

It just puts the "top" of your stitch on the sleeve side so that the back of your stitches are hidden in the fold. Christina has done quite a few sleeve seams though where she just started absentmindedly stitching and stitched on the gusset side to no real harm to the garment 🥰 so if you need to out your line there for now to hide it until you are more confident that will be fine. You could also pull a thread along the sleeve edge and use that at your guide.

what stitch would be used for the selvedge to selvedge method? i am so happy to have stumbled across this series.

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

3 жыл бұрын

Hi! Check out this tutorial for sewing selvage edges together kzread.info/dash/bejne/eZ-hrM-Acq3Nmrg.html

Hi. I get confused by the term "width" and "length" in fabric measurement. I've always understood that length is the longest dimension of a rectangle. But you mentioned that your sleeve is 11'' long and 18'' wide.

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

Жыл бұрын

Hi Trang! Yes. The lenght of the sleeve is the part that runs the length of my arm- so from the shoulder to wrist (or in this case from the shoulder to just above the elbow.) The width of my sleeve is the measure that will go the fullness of my arm (in this case around my bicep.) This helps keep the rectangle oriented correctly for the garment.

What weight of linen did you use ? And where can we find it on the Burnley and Trowbridge website?

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

2 жыл бұрын

We use our shirt/shift weight linen which is "usually" in stock. If you find it out of stock it is only temporary and usually gets restocked within a month.

Do the thick felled seams go against your skin(on the inside) or do they go on the outside like modern blue jeans?

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

4 жыл бұрын

Tiara Bass they go to the inside.

@tiarabass4625

4 жыл бұрын

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Thank you

How are you making the seam so straight? Are you sewing along a pulled thread or a marked line? It looks like there is some type of guide. If this was discussed somewhere in part 1 I must have missed it. My apologies.

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

4 жыл бұрын

Nathalie Maullin it is actually practiced stitching. Baste right above the line you want to stitch on. That will help you stitch a nice straight line when you go back to stitch it.

@nathaliemaullin6590

4 жыл бұрын

Burnley and Trowbridge Co. Thank you for the response! Something to strive towards:)

@Marialla.

4 жыл бұрын

One tip that helped me learn to sew straighter seams was to align my needle with the previous line of stitches to make my new stitches more level and less wonky. Also, if you're doing running stitch or running back stitch, load as many stitches as you comfortably can onto your needle at once, because the straightness of the needle means the loaded stitches can't possibly be going very wonky within that group.

Why do you always stitch on the extended? Can you see the raw edge on the other side so you know you are sewing correctly?

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

3 жыл бұрын

If you so on the extended you will have the finished stitch showing when you fell down the seam. You can do a REVERSE backstitch which means you could work on the short side and still get the good side showing when you fell.

What I am actually missing is what kind of thread you are using (what size, so to speak)?

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

3 жыл бұрын

We typically use either a 60/2 or 80/3 linen thread for this weight of linen.

I hope this isn't heresy, but what would happen if you turned under the seam allowance as you were felling it down?

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Jennifer! Not quite sure what you are asking, but the allowance is turned once before felling to finish the interior. Did you mean turn it twice?

@jennifergeorgia5445

4 жыл бұрын

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge No, I was thinking what if you turned it under just once but AS you were stitching it (the way I think they do on Hawaiian applique), instead of turning and pinning it all beforehand? (I suppose I am simply not cut out for HA hand stitching - I'm always noticing what I think could be shortcuts but probably actually ruin things.)

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

4 жыл бұрын

Ooooh. You could do that if you have good control with your hands. It's just easier to keep the seam consistent by pinning or basting ahead of time. 😁

@Marialla.

4 жыл бұрын

​@@jennifergeorgia5445 I've never done Hawaiian applique, but I've seen it and I know it has a lot of tight curves involved that must be meticulously turned. So those intricacies need slow, careful attention for every stitch. Having done straight, felled seams like this shift before I can say for me it is much faster to pin or baste the folded seam down before felling, so I can just blaze through my hand-felling task without stopping to needle-turn every stitch. I did try doing it on the fly, as you suggest, and maybe for someone very used to doing it on the fly it might work better for them, but for a straight seam like this I find it just a lot easier to have it pre-folded and stable, and that is what saves me the most time. Having said all that, it would NOT ruin things at all if you did it your way! Everyone needs to work whichever way gets the job done best for them. Basting is my favorite because I often take my hand-sewing around with me in my bag to work on in little minutes while sitting for appointments or whatever, and basting is stable without poky pins bothering me, and I can whip out the whole line of basting in one pull. Just experiment and find your own favorite techniques for your needs!

This is such an interesting series. How do you keep the thimble on your finger?? Mine keep falling off. I have very small hands and fingers for an adult. I really admire your patience in all of the hand sewing!! Thank you!

@zegobou

4 жыл бұрын

Thimbles actually come in different sizes. I found mine in a small independent haberdashery store, as opposed to big fabric stores that often only carry one size.

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

4 жыл бұрын

Peggy Riordan yes go to a store where you can try thimbles on, or you might try a silicone thimble.

@Marialla.

4 жыл бұрын

I like to create thimbles for myself out of thin leather. They don't last forever, but they are extremely comfortable and if they ever feel like they've stretched and become a bit loose I can just tighten them up with another stitch or two.

I think I would be having an easier time of this if it was stated what side I am to be pinning to which. During the gusset portion the fabric is flipped around several times, or the video is edited back to the front view of the host instead of the fabric. I’ve watched it many times and it’s still not clear to me.

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Lisa! Christina here. I'm not entirely sure what you're asking. Are you meaning "right/wrong" side when you say which side? Left/right? If you can give me a little more information I might be able to better answer your question. Thanks

@jayloo

2 жыл бұрын

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge My same issue. I can't tell whether I am folding with the sleeve to the side that is "finished", i.e., the backstitching and fell stitching don't show. A small close-up inset image any time there might be confusion would help. Also, I can't tell why my gussets don't match up like yours do, I have a 1/2" gap at the "top".

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

2 жыл бұрын

Hey@@jayloo! If it helps, all stitching is done from the interior of the garment- this includes the backstitching, felling, and hemming. If your offset for the first side of the gusset was a little off it's possible that your gusset might not line up completely at the top of your sleeve. If this is causing you troubles, we'd recommend trying to set the gusset the way that we demonstrate in our Shirt Sew Along, as Christina shows another common way to put a gusset in that some people find works better for them

@jayloo

2 жыл бұрын

@@BurnleyandTrowbridge thank you! I think I might try that, as I believe that lines up with the Kannik's Korner method, too.

I wanted to watch your channel and learn from it but you have made ads appear every 30 seconds. Very irritating.

@BurnleyandTrowbridge

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Misty, Thanks for your comment! We don't actually control the ads and when they occur, that would be KZread. Please keep in mind that ads are one of the many ways we are able to bring you the highly specialized free content on our channel as they allow us to bring in a very small amount of revenue to help cover the time needed to not only produce our videos, but also to research and study the very garments and techniques that we are sharing with you. If you would like to watch KZread without ads, you might look into KZread's premium service which allows users to experience KZread ad free.