Let's compare the grain character in different leathers. ashlandleather.com/ / ashlandleather
Жүктеу.....
Пікірлер: 65
@gergemall8 ай бұрын
Thx Phil, the best explanation I’ve ever seen.❤
@IAMYOUMusic3 жыл бұрын
i think a deer skin exterior with bison interior johnny the fox would be pretty cool
@wahinepaddler42 жыл бұрын
Umm..how have I not come across your videos sooner 😳 love your attention to detail 🥰
@AshlandLeather
2 жыл бұрын
Glad you found me :)
@DalesLeatherworks3 жыл бұрын
That bison Chromexcel looks SO COOL!!!!
@AshlandLeather
3 жыл бұрын
The texture on the bison is super interesting. I'm surprised more companies aren't using bison. The biggest brand that I can recall using it in Chromexcel was Trask
@yohankusuma55103 жыл бұрын
That denim shell cordovan is looking FINE
@anastasiosvra90243 ай бұрын
Thanks much for the video and for showing us so many great products! Question for you, how does the shell cordovan patina compared to other leather types like full grain? Does it loose it's distinctive shine fairly quickly? Cause those shel Cordovans look awesome right of the shelf! With Shel cordovan ages the most elegantly? Please add any insight of your on those shells patina journey!
@CSiri-cc2hq3 жыл бұрын
Very informative. Thank you for this video.
@AshlandLeather
3 жыл бұрын
My pleasure. Glad to be of service
@viningscircle3 жыл бұрын
Very informative and interesting video Phil. I would like to offer a suggestion. I think introducing a triangle snap closure coin holder would be great in Horween, especially also offered in shell cordovan. It could be for both guys and gals. Just a thought to throw out there. 😉👍
@AshlandLeather
3 жыл бұрын
Hey, Spence! I really appreciate the suggestions! We definitely need a good coin pouch in the line up
@JodysJemsQuilting6 ай бұрын
I need help. I have Dansko's and the calfskin (as they told me) under the cuff across the top of the shoes cracks and falls apart. What do you recommend to keep the calf leather from falling apart?
@Florida_Man953 жыл бұрын
Hi, loved the video! I'm trying to start a small leather goods co and I'm struggling with finding the right weights for my leather projects. I thought about buying a splitter but as you said I'm worried it may weaken the leather. What ounces do y'all usually use for your main vs interior pockets? Thank you again for the informative video!
@AshlandLeather
3 жыл бұрын
This is a really great question. For wallets: We use around 4 oz for the main pieces of leather and around 3 oz when we need to make a lot of stacked card pockets (Johnny the Fox interiors). You should experiment for yourself by skiving some trials by hand yourself before investing in a splitter or a skiving machine. You should notice the tensile strength is reduced a significant amount when you remove material from the leather. A lot of places get around this loss of strength by backing the thinned down leather with a non-leather stiffener or backing material. A note: it is really hard to find naturally thin pieces around 3 oz -- the only reliable source of thin leather I am able to get is horsehide but hosehide is also very challenging because it has a lot of grain clarity issues and inconsistency
@gurmeetsindhu40222 жыл бұрын
Can you also explain goat and sheep leather
@MMM88X Жыл бұрын
Thanks Phil, great video as always. Very informative. Cheers.
@renegadestudioworks Жыл бұрын
Hair holes? I think the word you're looking for is follicles :)
@mikeczyz3 жыл бұрын
hey! that's probably my valet tray!!!!
@davidhunternyc1 Жыл бұрын
After watching this video, if I wanted the softest, most comfortable sneakers from Crown Northampton, the leather that I should get is deer skin. Dear seems so much softer and subtle, closest to typical canvas sneakers. Shell cordovan may be the apex of leathers but in a sneaker it seems counter intuitive. What's your thoughts? Thanks.
@tianamarie989
Жыл бұрын
I don't think using just the deer would suffice for shoes. I would use the deer as a lining instead.
@johnathanesposito69053 жыл бұрын
That English tan dublin is epic.
@DLSWV2 жыл бұрын
👍😉
@RaMoonArt2 жыл бұрын
So great jop
@abaddonnoddaba7396 Жыл бұрын
Hey! Awesome video. I think it eould also be interesting to see the difference between: camel, goat, kangaroo leathers too. And maybe also a video on small mamel leathers ie fox, coons, squirrel, etc... And what each of them are best used for.
@wavygoods877 Жыл бұрын
Where would you rate/place deer skin compared to the ones mentioned?
@AshlandLeather
Жыл бұрын
Its tough to say because it really depends on what you are using the material for. Further, it depends on what has been tanned into the leather. Generally speaking the deer skins I have seen tend to be softer and very grainy. They also have a lot of rough spots and imperfections/inconsistencies in the hide. Given the same tannage I'd rate deer pretty low. If I am making a soft glove I would rate deer higher than the others
@cozmicblade44103 жыл бұрын
where does moose come in on that list , is it soft like deer but thick like cowhide?
@AshlandLeather
3 жыл бұрын
I haven't ever experienced moose leather, personally
@makeshiamullins41447 ай бұрын
Curious why the leather you’re holding while describing Bison leather has “deer” written on it?
@AshlandLeather
6 ай бұрын
They were labeled on the backside of the leather with a sharpie marker and transferred to the piece sitting underneath
@TheLT7042 жыл бұрын
Thanks for letting me see this.. very nice and interesting
@seiko93612 жыл бұрын
What is the differnece between cordovan and shell cordovan leather ?
@AshlandLeather
2 жыл бұрын
They are the same
@Blinkerd00dАй бұрын
So did you make the fat herbie first or did mascon leather make the chunky charlie first? Just curious.
@AshlandLeather
Ай бұрын
I started making Fat Herbie in 2011. Not sure when Chunky Charlie came about but I think it was several years later
@Blinkerd00d
Ай бұрын
@@AshlandLeather oh ok, that's cool. I was just curious, I didn't mean to imply anything by it or anything.
@arseny27682 жыл бұрын
Shell cordovan is not underneath the skin it is part of the skin. It is made from back of a horse hide (hide from German Haut - skin) . There are specifically two spots called shells in English from which shell cordovan is made.
@thysonsacclaim
Жыл бұрын
This is purely a difference in the colloquial term where skin means just the "outer layer" and the scientific definition, which considers many layers of the skin--the epidermis, dermis, and the hypodermis. Regardless everyone knew what was meant without the pedagogy.
@The.Best.Collector
Жыл бұрын
It's from the horses 🐎 ass/bum/butt area and it's disgusting because horses 🐎 are pets! 🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶
@dshe8637
Жыл бұрын
The top surface is removed for cordovan, so it is, to some extent, under the skin
@Da-op8wv
Жыл бұрын
@@The.Best.Collectorcows are pets too and in some religions they’re even sacred animals
@matthewsilfer2010
8 ай бұрын
I mean I appreciate the explanation, a membrane is not a good definition lol
@chucksolutions45798 ай бұрын
I want to build two “ultimates,” firefighter boots and custom motorcycle jacket. But leather is leather, right? WRONG (obviously). I work in San Diego and the leathers I’m most curious about are (different types of) deer, shark, stingray, kangaroo, bison, HORSE (new as of today the cordovan shell I just found out is from the rear of a horse) vs steer/cow/bull etc. I don’t care too much about looks, I care about function. I I want the best boots/jacket (and gloves, possibly a pair of overalls one day, but I digress) with the best materials. I’m learning so much but instead of it helping me, I think I know things that those who’ve been building these things for decades bc I’m willing to ask, what about bull shark vs blue shark stingray and kangaroo? And I get looks like I’m an idiot. I will say actually touching stingray helped me understand some things.
@AshlandLeather
8 ай бұрын
I don't have any deep knowledge on shark, stingray, or kangaroo. Keep in mind that the leather tannage (what the tannery puts into the hide) matters even more than the hide type.
@Arianm09 Жыл бұрын
cool video but i think the aperture was so wide open that almost nothing was kept in focus and made it hard for me to watch.
@kylegosiaco53183 жыл бұрын
Hi! Great video 😊 can you do a video on horse rump? Its characteristics and how it ages?
@AshlandLeather
3 жыл бұрын
I’ll put this on the list. Thanks!
@kylegosiaco5318
3 жыл бұрын
@@AshlandLeather thank you! Looking forward to it 😊
@tigersaint124 Жыл бұрын
What is Ranch Hand Leather?
@AshlandLeather
Жыл бұрын
Honestly I don't know
@walidzein12 жыл бұрын
Calf skin is the clear winner here
@danielirvine74683 жыл бұрын
Have you played with a kangaroo? I want to see if it's anything like cordovan. The glazed too looks like cordovan .
@AshlandLeather
3 жыл бұрын
Hey Daniel -- I have tried out some kangaroo before. The kangaroo we had was a special project for some torch sheaths. The leather wasn't anywhere close to the shell cordovan. It definitely had a grain to it. I'm not sure what leather tannage the kangaroo was but it was a veg similar to a lot of stuff Wickett and Craig does but a bit softer.
@MrAli-lu3gu2 жыл бұрын
Which animal leather is best for wallets ?
@AshlandLeather
2 жыл бұрын
As far as I am concerned they are all equally "good". It really depends on the aesthetics that you are desiring. A lot of the performance/toughness/strength will come from the specific leather tannage and not necessarily the animal choice
@The.Best.Collector
Жыл бұрын
Embossed calfskin with silk lining and the edges folded over and handmade by a top maker with a price of £500+ (that's pounds not dollars or euros)
@jason41a4 ай бұрын
i'm not that knowledgable in leather but i always go for real leather, full-grain if possible. my leather wallets, porfolios last 20+ years so far. after a while i jsut put some conditioner on them. they just come in so many styles and colors, and even brandnames. real leather is absolutely long lasting, beautiful, enviromentally friendly, and has a soul. i absolutely hate those plastic fake vegan polyurethane 'leather'. after 3-5 years they just crack (and they came from petroleum causing carbon, pollution, not renewable, bad for the environement, etc too).
@chicagonews18783 жыл бұрын
What about calf cordovan?
@AshlandLeather
3 жыл бұрын
I've never heard of this before. I could just be ignorant on this term but it is my understanding that shell cordovan only comes from the hindquarters of equine animals
@coreo72 Жыл бұрын
Kangaroo?
@Zakariah1971 Жыл бұрын
Deep dive down the rabbit hole by Edomite 😳
@unbiased1004 Жыл бұрын
It says deer on it, why you say its bison ?
@SKG37
Жыл бұрын
Checkout the 1:43 timestamp where Phil flips the deer hide over. You'll see the word "DEER" written on it in a bold, dark ink. The ink has merely transferred onto the bison from being in contact with it, probably with weight pushing down on it from being stacked.
Пікірлер: 65
Thx Phil, the best explanation I’ve ever seen.❤
i think a deer skin exterior with bison interior johnny the fox would be pretty cool
Umm..how have I not come across your videos sooner 😳 love your attention to detail 🥰
@AshlandLeather
2 жыл бұрын
Glad you found me :)
That bison Chromexcel looks SO COOL!!!!
@AshlandLeather
3 жыл бұрын
The texture on the bison is super interesting. I'm surprised more companies aren't using bison. The biggest brand that I can recall using it in Chromexcel was Trask
That denim shell cordovan is looking FINE
Thanks much for the video and for showing us so many great products! Question for you, how does the shell cordovan patina compared to other leather types like full grain? Does it loose it's distinctive shine fairly quickly? Cause those shel Cordovans look awesome right of the shelf! With Shel cordovan ages the most elegantly? Please add any insight of your on those shells patina journey!
Very informative. Thank you for this video.
@AshlandLeather
3 жыл бұрын
My pleasure. Glad to be of service
Very informative and interesting video Phil. I would like to offer a suggestion. I think introducing a triangle snap closure coin holder would be great in Horween, especially also offered in shell cordovan. It could be for both guys and gals. Just a thought to throw out there. 😉👍
@AshlandLeather
3 жыл бұрын
Hey, Spence! I really appreciate the suggestions! We definitely need a good coin pouch in the line up
I need help. I have Dansko's and the calfskin (as they told me) under the cuff across the top of the shoes cracks and falls apart. What do you recommend to keep the calf leather from falling apart?
Hi, loved the video! I'm trying to start a small leather goods co and I'm struggling with finding the right weights for my leather projects. I thought about buying a splitter but as you said I'm worried it may weaken the leather. What ounces do y'all usually use for your main vs interior pockets? Thank you again for the informative video!
@AshlandLeather
3 жыл бұрын
This is a really great question. For wallets: We use around 4 oz for the main pieces of leather and around 3 oz when we need to make a lot of stacked card pockets (Johnny the Fox interiors). You should experiment for yourself by skiving some trials by hand yourself before investing in a splitter or a skiving machine. You should notice the tensile strength is reduced a significant amount when you remove material from the leather. A lot of places get around this loss of strength by backing the thinned down leather with a non-leather stiffener or backing material. A note: it is really hard to find naturally thin pieces around 3 oz -- the only reliable source of thin leather I am able to get is horsehide but hosehide is also very challenging because it has a lot of grain clarity issues and inconsistency
Can you also explain goat and sheep leather
Thanks Phil, great video as always. Very informative. Cheers.
Hair holes? I think the word you're looking for is follicles :)
hey! that's probably my valet tray!!!!
After watching this video, if I wanted the softest, most comfortable sneakers from Crown Northampton, the leather that I should get is deer skin. Dear seems so much softer and subtle, closest to typical canvas sneakers. Shell cordovan may be the apex of leathers but in a sneaker it seems counter intuitive. What's your thoughts? Thanks.
@tianamarie989
Жыл бұрын
I don't think using just the deer would suffice for shoes. I would use the deer as a lining instead.
That English tan dublin is epic.
👍😉
So great jop
Hey! Awesome video. I think it eould also be interesting to see the difference between: camel, goat, kangaroo leathers too. And maybe also a video on small mamel leathers ie fox, coons, squirrel, etc... And what each of them are best used for.
Where would you rate/place deer skin compared to the ones mentioned?
@AshlandLeather
Жыл бұрын
Its tough to say because it really depends on what you are using the material for. Further, it depends on what has been tanned into the leather. Generally speaking the deer skins I have seen tend to be softer and very grainy. They also have a lot of rough spots and imperfections/inconsistencies in the hide. Given the same tannage I'd rate deer pretty low. If I am making a soft glove I would rate deer higher than the others
where does moose come in on that list , is it soft like deer but thick like cowhide?
@AshlandLeather
3 жыл бұрын
I haven't ever experienced moose leather, personally
Curious why the leather you’re holding while describing Bison leather has “deer” written on it?
@AshlandLeather
6 ай бұрын
They were labeled on the backside of the leather with a sharpie marker and transferred to the piece sitting underneath
Thanks for letting me see this.. very nice and interesting
What is the differnece between cordovan and shell cordovan leather ?
@AshlandLeather
2 жыл бұрын
They are the same
So did you make the fat herbie first or did mascon leather make the chunky charlie first? Just curious.
@AshlandLeather
Ай бұрын
I started making Fat Herbie in 2011. Not sure when Chunky Charlie came about but I think it was several years later
@Blinkerd00d
Ай бұрын
@@AshlandLeather oh ok, that's cool. I was just curious, I didn't mean to imply anything by it or anything.
Shell cordovan is not underneath the skin it is part of the skin. It is made from back of a horse hide (hide from German Haut - skin) . There are specifically two spots called shells in English from which shell cordovan is made.
@thysonsacclaim
Жыл бұрын
This is purely a difference in the colloquial term where skin means just the "outer layer" and the scientific definition, which considers many layers of the skin--the epidermis, dermis, and the hypodermis. Regardless everyone knew what was meant without the pedagogy.
@The.Best.Collector
Жыл бұрын
It's from the horses 🐎 ass/bum/butt area and it's disgusting because horses 🐎 are pets! 🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶
@dshe8637
Жыл бұрын
The top surface is removed for cordovan, so it is, to some extent, under the skin
@Da-op8wv
Жыл бұрын
@@The.Best.Collectorcows are pets too and in some religions they’re even sacred animals
@matthewsilfer2010
8 ай бұрын
I mean I appreciate the explanation, a membrane is not a good definition lol
I want to build two “ultimates,” firefighter boots and custom motorcycle jacket. But leather is leather, right? WRONG (obviously). I work in San Diego and the leathers I’m most curious about are (different types of) deer, shark, stingray, kangaroo, bison, HORSE (new as of today the cordovan shell I just found out is from the rear of a horse) vs steer/cow/bull etc. I don’t care too much about looks, I care about function. I I want the best boots/jacket (and gloves, possibly a pair of overalls one day, but I digress) with the best materials. I’m learning so much but instead of it helping me, I think I know things that those who’ve been building these things for decades bc I’m willing to ask, what about bull shark vs blue shark stingray and kangaroo? And I get looks like I’m an idiot. I will say actually touching stingray helped me understand some things.
@AshlandLeather
8 ай бұрын
I don't have any deep knowledge on shark, stingray, or kangaroo. Keep in mind that the leather tannage (what the tannery puts into the hide) matters even more than the hide type.
cool video but i think the aperture was so wide open that almost nothing was kept in focus and made it hard for me to watch.
Hi! Great video 😊 can you do a video on horse rump? Its characteristics and how it ages?
@AshlandLeather
3 жыл бұрын
I’ll put this on the list. Thanks!
@kylegosiaco5318
3 жыл бұрын
@@AshlandLeather thank you! Looking forward to it 😊
What is Ranch Hand Leather?
@AshlandLeather
Жыл бұрын
Honestly I don't know
Calf skin is the clear winner here
Have you played with a kangaroo? I want to see if it's anything like cordovan. The glazed too looks like cordovan .
@AshlandLeather
3 жыл бұрын
Hey Daniel -- I have tried out some kangaroo before. The kangaroo we had was a special project for some torch sheaths. The leather wasn't anywhere close to the shell cordovan. It definitely had a grain to it. I'm not sure what leather tannage the kangaroo was but it was a veg similar to a lot of stuff Wickett and Craig does but a bit softer.
Which animal leather is best for wallets ?
@AshlandLeather
2 жыл бұрын
As far as I am concerned they are all equally "good". It really depends on the aesthetics that you are desiring. A lot of the performance/toughness/strength will come from the specific leather tannage and not necessarily the animal choice
@The.Best.Collector
Жыл бұрын
Embossed calfskin with silk lining and the edges folded over and handmade by a top maker with a price of £500+ (that's pounds not dollars or euros)
i'm not that knowledgable in leather but i always go for real leather, full-grain if possible. my leather wallets, porfolios last 20+ years so far. after a while i jsut put some conditioner on them. they just come in so many styles and colors, and even brandnames. real leather is absolutely long lasting, beautiful, enviromentally friendly, and has a soul. i absolutely hate those plastic fake vegan polyurethane 'leather'. after 3-5 years they just crack (and they came from petroleum causing carbon, pollution, not renewable, bad for the environement, etc too).
What about calf cordovan?
@AshlandLeather
3 жыл бұрын
I've never heard of this before. I could just be ignorant on this term but it is my understanding that shell cordovan only comes from the hindquarters of equine animals
Kangaroo?
Deep dive down the rabbit hole by Edomite 😳
It says deer on it, why you say its bison ?
@SKG37
Жыл бұрын
Checkout the 1:43 timestamp where Phil flips the deer hide over. You'll see the word "DEER" written on it in a bold, dark ink. The ink has merely transferred onto the bison from being in contact with it, probably with weight pushing down on it from being stacked.