If you ever come into a real survival situation, just sit down and start sharpening your knife. In less than 15 minutes someone will appear and tell you how to do it right in his opinion.

@elkofdeath

3 жыл бұрын

This also works for cooking animals.

@ajdurkee8663

3 жыл бұрын

Underrated comment

@monkoko6441

2 жыл бұрын

?

@nicholascassadine1294

Жыл бұрын

😂😂😂

@raimundomartinsdeloiolafil7879

Жыл бұрын

🤣😂🤣🇧🇷

One other option for stropping a scandi grind without creating a convex edge is to use a hardwood strop. As a furniture-maker, this is what I do for my chisels between sharpening them with stones. All you have to do is cut a piece of hardwood so you have a very flat portion of end grain exposed and rub stropping compound into the open pores. You then have a flat, hard, durable surface charged with the fine stropping abrasive that will not convex your edge the way a leather strop will. It works incredibly well and saves me leaving the bench to sharpen on my stones. It also save wear on my nice stones and costs virtually nothing.

@MrNetnic

2 жыл бұрын

@Donny p. I was also a professional hand tool woodworker, reliant on ultra sharp planes and chiselsand I echo your advice. However, I would bet a fair amount of money that @Least 90% ofthe knife fetishists reading this thread Would not be able to plane a flat surface on the end grain of a piece of hardwood. That is why I recommend MDF -. It’s flat and it’s cheap.

@bradlarrison191

Жыл бұрын

@@MrNetnic I’m one of the dirty fetishists you speak of. Firstly, I hope you’re having a wonderful day being a worthy blade owner unlike us fetishists who get hard for sharpening blades we never use. Secondly, can you think of any way to obtain a small piece of mdf without having to purchase an entire board? I’m not a tool guy and always feel lost in the Home Depot unless I’m staring at a shiny knife edge attached to a tool I have no understanding of. Anyway, is there anything small that’s made of mdf i could purchase that I could strop my skandi grinds on. Because if I can’t achieve a hair shaving edge then I can’t get hard. And if I can’t get hard my wife gets angry. My marriage is on the line here. So, I’m begging you to once again impart your knowledge upon me and tell me how to acquire a small piece of mdf.

@WhuDhat

Жыл бұрын

@@bradlarrison191 construction site scrap bins, also the hardware store will generally cut that plank down for you, if you ask nicely ofc. but is having some excess wood ever really a bad thing? your wife apparently thinks not haha

Using the white board makes a great video. You explain things well with the illustrations.

@kyle_noseworthy

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much! I appreciate that :-)

Scandi is delicate. I have no problem with the slightly convexed edge. Stays sharp longer. And I take the stone to the blade. It's so much more controllable to me.

Your tutelage is incredible. You explained it, clearly, and in a way that helped others, saved them money, and did you no financial food aside from bolstering your credibility. You did quite well. I've now subscribed.

Mors Kochanski used a strop, Ray Mears applies a micro bevel, and furthermore, traditional Scandinavian knives were very high convex grinds. A zero grind is actually very delicate on the cutting edge, and can chip out easily.

@Ve-suvius

Жыл бұрын

Yup, also; Cody Lundin uses sandpaper, no stones (for more than 30 years now). On cardboard or something like that. A little convex is not bad but good. And what Kyle gets from customers, seems to be cases of completely focusing on the apex when stropping. Then you get the overly rounding effect. When keeping the whole bevel on the leather or sandpaper, it will work fine. No stones needed.

This makes a lot of sense. I just got my first scandi grind knife and the #1 reason was ease of sharpening. So I better make sure it STAYS easy to sharpen!

I've heard that Scandivex is the absolute best edge you can have on a bushcraft knife so thats why they strop with compounds.

@SoftBreadSoftware

3 жыл бұрын

They hold an edge somewhat longer. You don't need necessarily need a strop for any reason with any bevel. A strop is for honing, and polishing out the microserration as well as the steel itself, your edge will potentially last longer (if you didn't try to sharpen with a strop and make your edge atomically thin) and be prettier, not necessarily perform better. Convex is the best bevel for holding an edge, which means it is the best bevel period (but especially for bushcraft/survival)

@borjesvensson8661

3 жыл бұрын

@@SoftBreadSoftware The reason our knifes have flat bevels is to give good support while carving wood, Like the sole of a plane. Its also resonable good at general work but does not really good at standing up to abuse, traditionally axes/hatchets or perhaps sami chopping knives or sometimes a second "beater knife" were used for that, either with sligthly steeper angle "scandi" edges for carving use or convex grind for chopping use. Convex grind is better at cutting throug stuff, and as most mora knives are used on the workplace or home to cut, pry and poke around the manufacturers ship them with slightly to shallow angle grinds with the micro bevel to make them better cutters and to hold up to abuse better.

@LastBastian

3 жыл бұрын

@@borjesvensson8661 Sharpened my mora to a true scandi, only to find out that it made the knife worthless by doing so. That steel with that true zero edge simply didn't hold up to *any* actual use. Light wood carving mangled the delicate edge. Wound up having to put the secondary bevel back on. Works fine now.

Some might argue that a scadi-vex is better than a true scandi, and it was used originally, the flat scandi grind is a relatively new thing, that only came about with modern machinery in the factories of the last century or so.

Aaaaand that is another reason the low end Mora's are great, you can sacrifice one or two to learning how to sharpen Scandi grinds correctly on a real Scandi grind with decent steel without ruining more expensive knives.

@kyle_noseworthy

5 жыл бұрын

absolutely!

@janbernad4729

4 жыл бұрын

@Gray Au i dont think scandi sucks in general, in my opinion it is sometimes too demanding for the steel quality. For exmple, my Mora Companion came with scandi grind with a micro bevel (i dont like to call this sabre grind since the secondary bevel was only about quarter of milimeter wide). When i tried to sharpen it like a full scandi, i ended with an edge that was to thin and got bent during casual cutting task. Instead of reprofiling the whole blade or returning to the secondary bevel i went for the scandivex grind and cant comply about the edge retention now.

@chimpdongs

3 жыл бұрын

@@s7r49 Yeah..I've wasted countless hours trying to sharpen a "scandi" Mora, until I took a new one, put it under a microscope, and observed a distinct secondary / micro bevel. What is the point of them being sold as Scandi grinds, when they aren't scandi grinds? Literally the whole point is to have a very easy to sharpen profile that anyone can do, even out in the field.

@demolitionwilliams7419

3 жыл бұрын

Amen to that

@janbernad4729

3 жыл бұрын

@Ryan Boswood In my experience its all about practice. Practice and reasonable quality stones, which should be in ideal case pretty flat (no need to go crazy, but it helps for me). As far as I know, the scandi grinds are tricky in the way that while they allow you to set the sharpening angle on pretty easily, you need to take off quite a lot of material in comparison to a secondary bevel grind. This means that any minor mistake that you make gets amplified quite a lot. For example, if you tend to rock or tilt the blade on the end or beginning of each stroke, after a greater number of repetitions it might eventually round your bevel, making it slightly convex. After that, finding the correct angle to sharpen on again can be a bit difficult. If I were you, I wouldnt be really afraid of ruining cheap knives - I am not sure what you ment by "totally destroying", but unless you remove so much material that the knife isnt able to hold up, you most likely haven't done anything what somebody with some sharpening experience couldnt fix. The only reason why I would not recommed starting with expensive knives is the fact that you could damage them cosmetically, and while this is fine with cheap things, you most likely want your more valuable ones to be nice and shiny/satine/stonewash/whatever finish you like :P

Great simplified lesson for an amateur as myself. Thank you and Merry Christmas. 🎄

Very good explanation as to why scandis can get ruined. Thanks for sharing!

Thank you very much for the info! The over-convexing has always been an issue with my scandi grind knives.

good info on how to prevent damage on scandi grinds, but you also helped me with some insight on how to get a good convex grind as well! thank you!

"Pure" Scandi grinds IMHO have one purpose WHITTLING. But even then as someone who whittles about an hour a day I find a scandiVex or full flatVex blend to be superior . Knife use through hundreds of hours will teach you much about grinds and which ones work best. Ruining a scandi is when a person puts it through a worksharp but basic microvexing an edge is natural. If done right it will save you steel and money.

Thanks for the tip, I have been stropping my blades, but I'm going to try your advice out and see what difference it makes.

This is the best video I have seen so far explaining these two different grinds

Never owned a Scandi knife and had no idea about this. thanks for the info bro!

@kyle_noseworthy

7 жыл бұрын

my pleasure Kev!

Excellent video. I used to have this problem off and on till I figured out what you've explained very nicely with the diagrams.

I just purchased a scandi grind folder, this was superbly illustrated. And therefore super appreciated to extend the life of my knife through your knowledge. Greetings from New Zealand 🙏

Thanks for that. Good on you.

The Mora Companion used to come with the sabre grind, not sure if it still does, but the last one I bought had the secondary micro bevel. I got rid of the micro bevel as soon as I got it home. I have found that the skandi is my favorite blade grind for its versatility and its simplicity.

Sanding belts and leather strops will form slight convex bevels, even working on a wet stone by hand will tend to convex as the wrist flexes. A fixed angle jig would form a flat edge. Thick blades over 1/8th" tend not to perform well with a Scandinavian grind as the edge angle is too severe. My family bloodlines came from Sami of Inari and some old blades I have seen are all convex edged (both on 'leuku' and 'puukko' sized blades). I have heard from people who have researched this topic that mechanized mass production resulted in what we believe is the flat grind profile 'Scandi' we see today. Thanks for opening up this discussion :)

@Ve-suvius

Жыл бұрын

I sharpen all my Mora's on sandpaper and keep them sharp by stropping. The sanding blocks with spring clips have the somewhat soft backing. Perfect for sharpening a scandi grind knife to convex it slightly.. No stones needed. And the scandivex is best. A slight convex grind. Makes the edge tougher, but still very sharp.

Excellent illustration! I said out loud to myself: good guy... He definitely knows what he's talking about!!!

Awesome review! Extremely helpful!

Really enjoyed this and love the new episode format! I think this will be a great series. I'm not so focused on sharpening techniques and I know others aren't as well so this will offer a really nice service for those of us that need to learn more about how to sharpen and maintain our edges! Good job! P.S. how's the leg?👍👍👍

@kyle_noseworthy

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks PG! I'll continue with some of this stuff for sure! leg is doing well! Coming along!

@GriffinBenchmark

7 жыл бұрын

Really glad to hear it bud!

Thanks. Nice to know that strops are better WITHOUT compounds. Really makes things easier...

good tip, thank you

Amazing! I was waiting someone do this video long time ago! No one know how much my scandi knives are suffering! Loll! Thanks bro!

@kyle_noseworthy

7 жыл бұрын

haha glad you enjoyed it my friend!

You can strop with compound directly on a flat board. The leather of the strop compresses resulting in the rounding of the apex. For a bushcraft knife you might actually want this to strengthen the edge but when I am carving (mora 106) I use compound straight onto the board and it keeps a flatter bevel.

@MrNetnic

2 жыл бұрын

EXACTLY !!! If I really wanted to strop, I would use compound, or the slurry off an 8000 grit stone, on a piece of MDF. As far as I am concerned, the ultimate Scandi grind is the ultimate fragile edge. You are not taking your knife into the wilderness to make a fine furniture, Or to cut pieces of paper FFS. A knife that you take camping with you is a relatively crude tool That needs a combination of reasonable sharpness and reliable edge strength.

Great video, answered a question I’d had for a long time. I’d seen that but couldn’t work out why it was happening. I’ll stick with the stone.

Thank you so much for the info, really helps.

Good tip. I recently bought a scandi grind knife for bushcraft and am looking forward to a easier method of sharpening. I would have stropped it the way you warned not to. You saved me some frustration.

@kyle_noseworthy

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks YJ!

Thanks Kyle, this is exactly what I've been saying about all knives that do not have a secondary bevel at the cutting edge. To say that a Scandi grind is so easy to sharpen in the field is just NOT true. Yes you can put a sort of edge on it for a while, but, as you've said you're actually ruining your grind. What happens in most cases is that the less arduous solution is to sharpen at a steeper angle, thus changing the profile, till eventually it's mostly only useful as a doorstop it's so steep. The cynic in me says that the reason it is so widely recommended by experts is because it has to go back so often to an expert for proper sharpening. But I guess we all have to make a living. Most people who say it's easy to sharpen are people who have some considerable expertise with knives. For beginners it's a nightmare. One thing I do concede is that the Scandi grind is good for woodworking tools, as the angle is similar to that of a chisel, only double sided. For most other tasks like peeling, food prep, skinning, dressing meat etc flat and hollow grinds outperform the Scandi grind by a long way. It is most definitely NOT a solution for ALL camp tasks. For a SHTF survival situation it has serious shortcomings. Sharpening a hollow or sabre grind knife is actually quite easy, even to get a perfect edge, as there is much less probability for making a serious error, as your diagrams so clearly illustrate! Well done on that. Take away: from this it becomes clear that specific tasks around camp require specific knives, with the necessary characteristics to work effectively, and provide a pleasant experience while doing so. Yes, this means you might need more than one knife. However, if you like hacking it and expending lots of energy you can use just about anything out there and eventually the task may get done and leave you with all ten fingers and a full quota of blood inside. Thanks again.

@dennisleighton2812

Жыл бұрын

@@beowulf_of_wall_st S A hollow grind doesn't have a "flat".

@dennisleighton2812

Жыл бұрын

@@beowulf_of_wall_st Of course not, and I never intimated that it was.

Thanks, Weiderfan!!

I really needed this video. I'm having this problem and couldn't work out what was happening. After watching your video I think that this is the case. Thanks

Thank you very much for this video, it's very very helpful. I had a hunch of this proven theory about using strops with compound that can round off the edge because the grind is not lying completely flat on the surface of the sharpening tool. does this also apply to slightly convexed scandi grinds? Is there a video for secondary V Edge sharpening?

Did it ever occur to you that a lot of people actually prefer a microbevel (a shallow convex ideally) for a general use knife (myself included)? For a woodworking only knife, a 0 degree scandi is perfect for sure, but it won't hold up well cutting much else. Try hitting a bone directly with a 0 degree bevel and see what happens. Also, there is no such thing as a true scandinavian grind (I see this misconception a lot). Most were either slightly convex or concave, historically. Being scandinavian I've used this type of knife all my life, and I've come to prefer the microbevel for the extra stability. EDIT: Basically I'm saying this is all about personal preference. There is no absolute right way of sharpening, or stropping, a knife.

@michaeldemetriou1399

5 жыл бұрын

exactly if you touch anything hard like bone with the edge of a zero flat grind scandi it will roll or chip. Micro convex edge will resist this

@joelbenoitthewanderingbiso4976

4 жыл бұрын

Did it occur to you, maybe didn't make this video for you, no need for all the blah blah blah Then you go on to say, "for a woodworking knife, blah blah blah, well maybe he was talking to the woodworkers, hope you ego is ok by now. Oh and try using a saw on that there bone, why would you "try hitting a bone directly with a 0 degree bevel" anyway, unless you dislike safety and the knife.

@andyirons7162

Жыл бұрын

@@joelbenoitthewanderingbiso4976 I think his comments was great.....what's a youtube video without opposing opinions......you dont make a youtube video and dont expect people to comment

@Ve-suvius

Жыл бұрын

I totally agree with Corpserated. I sharpen my Mora's on a sandpaper+sanding block backing. Then finish off with the strop. The sandpaper is on the softer backing of the sanding block. I DO want the scandivex grind. That's a good thing.

Makes sense to me! Time to be more careful on the leather.

@kyle_noseworthy

7 жыл бұрын

thanks for watching!

It becomes a scandivex. [2] And it may performs even better, hold an edge better, less chips. I like it. Although, I try not to raise the angle not to convex to much. Last time on stones, I've modifeid my Mora, reduced the angle, raised the bevel line and stroped. So it seems like a tommy pukko. Bites much deeper in wood and the convex edge reduces the chiping issue. I like it. Still make great feathers.

Well good deal, I have been taking all of my blades to a true or mostly true scandi grind. Seems easier to maintain the edge also.

Short & concise. Excellent!

What do you think about something like an MDF strop loaded with compound? Shouldn't convex the edge at all, but still polishes the bevel.

good stuff Kyle,

So the sabre bevel is the micro edge you were removing from your Mora video right? You were sharpening and honing a scandi bevel back onto it and then you polished the entire grind to a mirror polish....it was exciting.

Thanks for the great vid. I notice a lot of people not lapping their stone either

Thank you, that explains why my blade edges seem to be dulling on 1/8 inch tanned leather cowhide with polishing compound, but I get a great polish using compound on thin suede like leather (from an old welding glove) stapled to a piece of wood. I'm applying to much pressure when stropping and the 1/8" leather has give to it where i'm rolling into the edge and eating it away as to where the thin leather has the hard wood backing to support my blade edge as i polish it. Eye opening O_O

@kyle_noseworthy

7 жыл бұрын

Glad you're progressing in your techniques my friend! Thanks for watching!

Amazing information! Much appreciated / many thanks

Awesome for the tip getting my first scandi bushcraft knife .

That was very informative. Thank you for the video.

Thank you! Great video!

Good for some of us to know and good for others to have the reminder. Thanks!

@kyle_noseworthy

7 жыл бұрын

a lot of times a reminder is all that's needed!

For my user scandi's I actually want that small secondary convex edge. They even call it a scandivex. So I strop them before even taking them out in the field. A true scandi is way to weak for serious carving most of all some harder woods. The edge will roll on you. I tested a true factory scandi knife in Colombia and the first piece of hardwood I tried to cut the edge had a visible roll. So what you say is correct but who wants a true scandi knife for actual work in the field?

@declanthiele

4 жыл бұрын

Sounds like the temper is too soft on those blades

@stevanoutdoor

4 жыл бұрын

@@declanthiele No. Just a full scandi makes the edge to weak. To thin no matter the temper or steel. It all depends on the angle of the scandi of course. After some stropping these blades can withstand batoning even. So if it's just cutting fruits and vegetables (soft materials) keep that super thin edge. If you also want to do some woodwork give it a strop depending on the angle of the scandi.

yeah I just had to save a mora from a belt sander today. picked up the classic number one for ten bucks to get it away from the guy with the belt sander the flea market. Unfortunately I wasn't able to save him from putting a secondary bevel on it so I'm debating on if I should reprofile it or not. what do you think?

Great vid! Helps me alot. May I ask what degree should a true scandi be? My tops bob scandi is at 11.8 degrees with a 20 degree micro bevel. My work tuff gear mt bushman’s scandi is at 8.9 degrees with a 20 degree micro bevel. Both are like this from the factory. Was thinking to make them both true scandi’s. Do you have any advise for me?

Excellent job Sir! A lot of good info there👍

@kyle_noseworthy

7 жыл бұрын

thanks woodswalker! I appreciate it!

I prefer a zero convex. But my scandis are always on ceramic stones. Great vid man.

Thanks for this video!

Great vid mate. Cheers

It does help a lot! Thanx mate :)

Good information. I have sharpened many knives, but all of them have microbevels. Just got my first Scandi Grind, soon it feels odd not keeping the large bevel touching the stone while sharpening. I rarely strop, but I do routinely hone on ceramic rod. Would honing be a problem with Scandi grinds, since the contact is made only on the edge and not the entire bevel?

These are very correct tips. Thank you from the other side of the ocean!

Good video. I skipped watching this video every time it popped up because I just assumed it was about people sharpening their scandi's as if they were regular knives and adding a secondary bevel. Now I'm glad I did watch it, I've been touching up my Mora on a straight razor strop and it has given it a slight convex. From now on I'll only use the plain leather side instead of the compound side.

I just use the back of my belt. Works great. After batoning a 1075 Condor Bushlore, that's all I need to do to hone the edge.

most clear video ever. Ty

hi there! great explanation.what are the best grits to sharpen the knife? just for bushcraft and utilitarian purposes, not aesthetics

Great point and explanation . Thanks

@kyle_noseworthy

7 жыл бұрын

thanks Rusty!

Thanks for the sharing! This was very instructive

@kyle_noseworthy

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks Ortzi!

What if I want a convex grind, will stropping on a leather keep my convex edge? Or what if I have a micro-bevel on a flat or scandi grind, how do I resharpen that micro-bevel?

@kyle_noseworthy

5 жыл бұрын

Stropping on leather will help to keep your convex, for sure. You would sharpen a micro bevel just as you would sharpen any knife, say a buck 110, with a small secondary bevel.

Well apparently I put a saber grind on my mora still cuts well tho , maybe I will invest the time to make it a scandi again anyway thanks for the video

Excellent info, presented wonderfully.

Thanks for pointing that out, and everyone thx for the good info in the comments!

Okay. Scandi - use a flat stone. Now I know what I keep doing wrong. Please tell me how do sharpen AND MAINTAIN a sabre grind. Excellent and to the point video.

Thanks for showing us and take care.

i hear people using secondary grind/edge/bevel interchangeably with micro grind/edge/bevel, but here's how I like to make the distinction. On saber grinds, you can clearly see the "secondary" bevel, it's certainly nowhere near as long as the primary, but you can clearly see that edge. Whereas for scandi, I do sharpen (since it typically doesn't need reprofiling, on higher grit stones) them to scandi zero, but raise them ever so slightly for a micro edge on finer/finishing stone. These micro edges are visually not as prominent as the secondary edge on a saber grind. Of course another thing to point out is that the primary bevel on saber is a lot shallower than the angle of a scandi knife. Anyway, long story short, I like having micro bevels on scandi knives; I feel you get over 90% of the cutting performance (if not more) and a lot tougher edge. I also love sabers too though; one can never have too many knives (unless you ask my wife....)

@hristokassovski

10 ай бұрын

I agree with you. I also microbevel my scans is because a true Scandinavian edge on my Finnish puukkos and I see the edge literally flexing while working on harder woods. I know that puukkos are meant to whittle softer woods though. But where I live we have harder woods as well. A week Scandi edge is not practical for me.

You get knives with a convex edge because people are sharpening them on stones and don't know how to hold the proper angle. They rock the blade as they pull it down the stone and cause the angle to change as they pull/push the blade. On top of that people who don't know how to sharpen their knives and try, are seldom using the same angle 2 strokes in a row. Stropping has little to do with the damaged edges you see. Most people don't even know what a strop is, much less actually own one.

Funny, i stumbled across this video at 2 am and it just solved my recent knife predicament. I made a new strop out of some scrap veg. tan and i stropped my mora 511. I thought it would be shaving sharp but it couldn't even cut paper! I thought my angle was too steep and i goof'd up but this video just answered that question.

Great vid bud. Now only if i could get my angles right...

Just got a Helle Skala Folder. Scandi secondary grind, but with a micro-bevel on the primary!

Another excellent video...Thx

Well explained! Quite clear.

Very good video. Learned a few things. Thanks.

Finally... thank you!

A very good reason why I do my stropping on a pine board (no leather) with compound directly on the wood. And when it begins to deform, it’s kindling! Obviously, it needs to be a perfectly clear board with straight grain.

I have a very good old leather belt. Will it be useful to use two strokes lying tight next to each other to make it a strop?

The first time I did a zero grind on my scandi knife, it was scary sharp. But the edge didn't last. I enjoyed using it but I took some chips and rolls. Now I can't be bothered taking even more steel and time to fix that. So I keep factory microbevel edge on the scandi.

Well said bro. Even my blacksmith drives me crazy by putting on a convex edge with his belts, and when I want to put on a decent V edge (scandi) I need to sharpen around 3-4 days - each day, at least 2 x 3 hours on my stones which is absolutely a stone and time killing, useless piece of unnecessary work. I hate it.

With my scandi ground carving knives I'll strop them in between sharpening with compound but I use a very flat, glass backed kangaroo leather strop which reduces the convexing problem a lot. I also don't use much downward pressure, just enough to hold the knife in place. And when I notice that not working well anymore I sharpen them on metal diamond plate sharpener. Honestly scandi ground knives are a quite a bit more work when it comes to maintenance but if you need the capabilities you can't beat them.

Scandi its really hard to maintain perfectly flat because the stone wears out and then getting it back perfectly sharp becomes almost impossible. I have a mora that gave me a lot of grief until i put it on the work sharp and convert it into convex. It worked best on 15 degrees angle and now the knife is really sharp and you can easily refine the edge on a strop.

Just got a Mora Robust. As I'd like to learn to sharpen properly before buying expensive knife. Really don't know what to buy to maintain. Stone ,strop etc. Could you recommend what to buy for a beginner here in Ireland ??

This is why I never use a strop. I have a 3/32x2x4 inch hardened steel plate for honing the edge.

I don't have a knife with a skandi grind yet. But how often would you need to sharpen it, because that's a lot of surface to sharpen?

Thank you sir this was very informative 😊

Thanks for the advice

Man I need to see this video. I literally am the guy you've described ruining the blade. Thanks for this

Makes sense to me. I see many posts saying a secondary bevel prevents rolling of the edge. What say you?

@rowanfernsler9725

4 жыл бұрын

It doesn’t prevent rolling but it does make the edge significantly tougher

@shaunnaude5190

4 жыл бұрын

Try a Smith Custom they WON'T roll

@borjesvensson8661

3 жыл бұрын

Yes it does. They should really be about 22° to 26° but few are from factory.

A lot of knives advertised with a scandi grind come with a secondary bevel though, even from Mora.

Can the edge still remain sharp that way? I have a 1075 steel knife whose edge rolls easily with light use and I was guided towards creating that micro convex edge with a thick strop to counteract the inherent weakness of the metal/edge. Any advice? Thank you for your video by the way!

@borjesvensson8661

3 жыл бұрын

Yes if you increase the bevel angle. 22° to 26° is common on woodcarving knifes.

So for sharpening the knife or better maintaining the sharpness in the "Field" you recommend a 10 000 er Stone? Thx.

@kyle_noseworthy

6 жыл бұрын

No, nowhere close to that in my opinion! For woods maintenance, try 2000!

Great Vid... A+