Wonderful video. Thanks so much for actually showing us all three options, starting with trimming the bodice side of the arm seam for most of these options. It is easy to say, but really showing the actual trimming is a great teaching moment. Getting the inside to look as nice as the outside is a real game changer with this hobby.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Thank you for your thoughtful comment! I’m still working on making the inside look as nice as the outside; it’s definitely an art 😉

Hi Toni, Thought you did a great job of showing the different choices that can be made to neaten up the inside of the garment, as well as sewing mock ups utilizing the different methods so your viewers could get the visualization!! That is what is missing from many other sewing KZreads so I applaud the time you spend to make your demos so meaningful!!!!! When I was learning to sew I could've come to speed much more quickly if KZread and great teachers were accessible like they are now. And also, I wanted to add that I love to also make the inside of the garment look neat and nice, as so much of what you can buy on a rack is very cheaply put together and flimsy. It's so great to put on a garment that we made with great quality fabric that will stand the test of fit, wear and washing and still continue to look great! What an outstanding skill you are trying to pass along!!!!! Rock On GF!!!!!!! Carrie from the Northern San Francisco Bay Area 😘❤🐶🐑☕🌧☔🧵🪡🧶

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Aww thank you Carrie. Coming from someone of your skill level I appreciate it 😉

I’ve sewed for over 55 years and was taught by my grandma who came from a long line of German tailors. She would come out of her grave if I used a serger on a garment - That’s fast fashion in a nut shell. Before sewing machines, seams were finished by hand with an overlocking stitch. There are so many ways to finish seams (which in my opinion is not serging - it looks rough and doesn’t always deter unraveling). French seams are not difficult, but are difficult to do with thick fabrics. Just takes practice. Flat felling is a great option as is using bias tape. You can do this!

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Tailoring is an art unto itself. How lucky you learned to sew from one. I can only imagine how beautiful a hand finished overlock seam must be 😍

@mishkalarsoncreations

5 ай бұрын

We didn’t have KZread I’d course but there is so much info and education out there that I feel there should be no boundaries to one’s skill improvement.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

@@mishkalarsoncreations very true. There wasn’t KZread when I was in school either 😉 but so true that it’s opened up a world of learning.

I appreciate the time you took to make this video for us, and to actually make three sample sleeves (which look great). I'm a relatively new sewer (at 70) and I found your video so helpful.

@SewSewLounge

24 күн бұрын

You are so welcome! This was one of those videos where I had the question myself. Once I figured out some good ways to finish armhole seams I had to share!

Great job, it looks lovely. About the zig-zag though, you do it over the raw edge, so half the stich is on the fabric and half outside. That way the fabric doesn't fray. I do this to all my raw edges on woven fabrics before putting it together and it works really well. Working on a 1950's Husqvarna.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Thanks for the tips!

Oh, oh, oh…….this is to fiddling for me. I think I stay finishing with my serger. 🤭

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

I can’t get my serger to make a circle that tight, which is why I needed another option 😉

Thanks for sharing your research; these are all great techniques for making a cleaner sleeve insertion.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Glad it was helpful! I was glad to make the effort 😉

I just made a nightgown out of silky fabric and tried a flat fell, only I hand finished it on advice from some of the vintage /retro /costume folks. Oh my gosh it even felt luxurious on the inside. I loved it, and think it’s worth the trouble if anyone finds themself finishing sheer fabric. For strength, though I like the machine fell/Faux French one you used (which I learned in the 70s at UT Austin probably with your grandma).

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

You had better teachers at UT than I did! We only learned about our seam finishing options, not the practical part of actually sewing them 🙄. (But so cool to know that you went to UT too!!)

@lbrowning2543

5 ай бұрын

@@SewSewLounge I think there were two camps in the Fashion and Textile faculty. One liked couture methods (my teacher did and encouraged us to try them) and the other group didn’t. I was teaching at a college across the state 20 years later and got a compliment from the Department Chair about my skirt. I mentioned a couture finish and she stiffened and seemed really defensive, informing me they did not and never would teach such things . It seemed weird, and I didn’t have the presence of mind to ask why. It’s almost like her loyalty was to the pattern instructions??? Dunno. 🤷 There are industrial sewing methods, and a ton more I ‘ve never learned, and like to keep on reading old sewing books, learning from you and your viewers, and growing.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

@@lbrowning2543 I’m up for trying new things and seeing which works best for me personally. Too many times I’ve been reading pattern instructions and wondered why they were more complicated than they needed to be. I have an industrial sewing book and the methods are very interesting but not necessarily something that I’d do regularly. But I totally agree with what you’re saying 😉

Thank you! This is so helpful!

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Yay!! Glad it was helpful!

Thank you so much! I've been sewing for a few years and have always been dissatisfied with armholes. Neither overlock nor zigzag made me happy. I was always afraid of cutting the seam allowances so far back, but you freed me from that. Thank you 😊! Warm greetings from Germany!

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

You are very welcome!! I decided it was time to come up with a better solution to armhole seam finishes. Glad that my video helped you too ❤️

Thanks for researching this topic. Very helpful and good alternatives to serging. You are a great teacher! I've been sewing for 57 years, but am always willing to learn new techniques! These Were Great! I'll be back!

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Glad that you enjoyed my video! I’m always for to learn new techniques too ☺️

The faux French seam is very nifty! Another seam finish I like doing is putting bias tape around the raw edges. I use up any extra fabric and if I need to alter the garment in the future, then it’s easy to take apart.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

That’s a good idea too!! Thanks ☺️

Great job. Loved the comparisons.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Awesome and thank you! ☺️

I think you should try an actual French seam. It is much easier than you think to sew the first round of stitching at 1/4", then go back and sew 3/8". You will probably be surprised that you don't have any puckers. It naturally eases in much better at the initial 1/4 rather than sewing a normal sleeve at 5/8 in. When I started sewing for my kids, I didn't have a serger. I sewed a tiny dress for my daughter entirely with French seams. I couldn't stand the idea of having those raw edges. I was brave and just tried it. I could not have been more proud of how it turned out. I, too, want it to look as pretty inside as out.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

I will try it out! I just have to plan for it and be well rested so I can focus on doing it right 😉

@katieb1836

5 ай бұрын

@@SewSewLounge Maybe try it on a small sample, by cutting a sleeve out of scraps and the upper part of a bodice? I will be your cheerleader, you can do it! 🤣

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

@@katieb1836 thank you! For some reason I’ve got a metal block going. Making a sample to figure it out is probably the way to go 😉

Great video, love the comparisons and demos (my fave, "let's go in for a closer look," is so helpful)! The modified French seam looks very doable and less fiddly; I can't wait to try one with my next project.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

I have to agree! The faux French seam was MUCH less fiddly than the others and I really like the way it looked.

something I learnt when I started sewing, as I did not have zigzag on sewing machine and home overlockers/ serger were not a thing yet

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Good to know!

I just do french seams everywhere on all of my woven projects. Including my armholes and it worksgreat. I dont have the money for a serger. I've been sewing for only six months now and have about 15 projects done. EVERYTHING I do in woven I use french seams. It looks the neatest, cleanest and doesnt fray at all. And with french seam sleeve inserting I dont think its that bad. I do 3 rows of gathering stitches two inside the seam allowance and one inside the sleeve itself. I mean gather - 1st seam line - gather - 2nd seam line - gather. It works great and if i have a tiny pucker i just resew it and its good to go.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

If I plan in advance I might try a French seam sleeves finish. But I’m not taking the sleeves out of my dress to try it out. Once they’re in, they’re in! 🤣

3:43 I am fairly new to sewing garments and I just finished sewing my very first sleeves in the round using a French Seam. For some reason I tend to gravitate towards the things people say are difficult😅. Let me tell you that sewing French Seams on the sleeves armholes was so frickin simple. I watched Sew Essential - How to French Seam an Armhole and she explained it so well and it really was easy. Face your fear and try it, you will kick yourself for running away from something so simple lol.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Yeah I watched that video and it just made things worse 🤣 I’ll figure it out when I have time to dedicate to the learning process.

@RoseGold...

5 ай бұрын

@@SewSewLounge 😂😂😂Well I hope that you will figure the sleeve French Seam out one day. Honestly, I was more nervous about sewing the sleeves in the round since it was first time. I had only sewn sleeves on the flat. Now that I have done both, I didn't feel much of a difference in the sewing process.

I would have chosen as you did. I don’t have a serger and my Janome, which I use most of the time, is a straight stitch only (I’m primarily a bag maker). I don’t like switching machines (I have an Elna lotus and an ancient Kenmore) to do zigzag so I generally do French seams or faux French seams to finish. But I confess that sometimes I don’t do anything at all because by the time I’ve finished the garment I just don’t feel like it! Yesterday I made a Chinese inspired top with a mandarin collar and side closure. That was a bit confusing but I did it…

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

To be honest, I use a straight stitch for pretty much everything. Though now that I have a new serger and it’s set up close to my machine it’s not to bad to move back and forth between them. Your top sounds lovely! I love a good mandarin collar and side closure 😉

Great advice. Thanks so much 😊🇬🇧

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

You are so welcome! ☺️

This is really great information. I made all my clothes in high school and used the self-inclosed and flat felt seam finishes. I then quit, making only Halloween costumes for the kids. But it’s tempting to try again, especially with all the gorgeous fabrics available now. Except now sadly, High Fashion Fabrics is closing, so maybe when I’m retired.

@SewSewLounge

4 ай бұрын

High Fashion is still open until May 31 and they have some good deals. I’ve already been three times 🤣 If you can find a bolt with a couple of yards on it, it’s 50%. I picked up some dupioni silk for a bargain. It’s so sad they are closing! I used to drive down from Austin to buy fabric for all of my college sewing projects. I took Grandma last week and she said it was the end of an era.

Thank you so much for this video! It's very helpful. I was just contemplating the problem of how to get better seam finishes on curved armholes and your advice is just the ticket. I have a book called "The Art of Dressmaking" published by Butterick in 1927. It includes directions for the seams you recommend, as well as others. The illustrations show how to sew these seams by hand (eek!), first painstakingly basting each step, element and fabric fold (eek! eek!), prior to finalizing the seam with excruciatingly tiny hand stitches (I lost my eyesight just looking at the illustrations). It recommends a "turned-in French seam" for armholes. A "fell French seam" is "used principally for wash garments, such as muslin underwear made in medium-weight materials, for flannels, tailored waists and working aprons." Again, thank you for your wonderfully helpful video!

@SewSewLounge

2 ай бұрын

You are very welcome! I’m glad my video was helpful. Your book sounds fascinating. I think my oldest sewing books are from the 40s and most of the recommendations use a sewing machine. I can’t imagine hand sewing and entire garment. 😱 eek eek is right!

Love finishing details.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Thank you! ❤️

All great options. Thanks for sharing this.Clear instruction’s and I appreciate you for the demonstrations also. How about covering serger finishing the same way?

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

I haven’t tried a serged edge. I couldn’t fit the armhole seam into my old serger the way it was made. I haven’t even attempted it with my new one.

@pjacksreads536

5 ай бұрын

@@SewSewLounge me either but I would try doing it open. Before closing the sides.

Yea Momma for having the Vogue book to donate to you! So glad it has been useful to you girlfriend.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Yes! Thank you! It was so wonderful of you to share it with me 🤣

A flat felt seam for an armhole finish, never heard of it! I would French seam the armhole as second choice (after serging or using a sewing machine overcast stitch), unless the fabric is very thick, like a wool or denim. With light weight, medium weight fabrics a French seam is great. Wow, thank you for showing the faux- French seam. I didn't know it existed.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

I think I learned about a faux French seams in college then promptly forgot. The only mention of them was in my Vogue sewing book and I was glad to find it!

Enjoyed seeing each sample. I do have and love my serger but in my woven tops like a more clean looking seam and each one you showed are nice options .

@SewSewLounge

4 ай бұрын

Yay! I think they are a good variety of sleeve finishing options depending on the look you’re going for.

I had never heard of the faux french seem but it is exactly what i want for my new shirt!

@SewSewLounge

4 ай бұрын

It’s a perfect (and easy) solution to finish an armhole seam! I know you’re going to love it ❤️

Lovely to see the comparison of alternatives. I have found that French seamed armholes are not as hard as I thought (but I do have to refresh myself on the process EVERY time) but I usually just serge them if I've already put them in. That means one section of the serge is a bit wonky where I'm entering and leaving the circle but its not very noticeable since its all on the interior. I will keep these alternatives in mind (or refer back to that vogue sewing book!)

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

I’m am not great with a serger in the round 🤣 but I will likely try the French seam armhole when I feel like a challenge.

Hello, just found your channel. Great advice and relaxing. Instead of the music I’d love to hear your machine. I was taught to pink the edges, but they do unravel. Now I stitch my seam then zig zag them together. I always sew my sleeves flat.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Thank you for watching ☺️Unfortunately my mic cancels out the sewing machine sounds. It’s not the best but the noise canceling helps when the neighbors are doing yard work.

French seams work great. Give it a try.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Will do! Once I get confident with regular French seams 😂

Thank you so much for this informative video. This was education I wanted and will definitely use.

@SewSewLounge

4 ай бұрын

I’m so glad you found it helpful. It was time I found a good way to finish armhole seams for my own projects!

Thanks for this. Taking a sewing course at my local college. We are making long sleeve shirt and wanted a nice finish for the armhole. Totally forgot about mock French seams. I may try a French seam if my instructor recommends it. I let you know if it works out. Learned about flat-felled seams they look great as side seams on a dress shirt. (The technique we learned was flat-felled seams started wrong sides together and the seam is finished on the right side of the fabric. The method of right sides together and finishing on the inside, the instructor called a lapped seam.)

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

You are welcome. I totally forgot about mock French seams too. It sounds like you are in a good course. We learned about flat felled seams in college, but not how to sew them 🙄

Hi Toni, these days I serge sleeve edges. Prior to owning a serger I set the zig zag wide and short stitch, this rolls the edge slightly and looks nice - no ugly stitches or fray. I used flat fell seams on all my shirts which I make.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Hi Dave! I think serving works well when you put a sleeve in flat-my serger can’t do a round set in sleeve armhole. I never tried a zig zag stitch like you described. I need to try that out!

@thedajune956

5 ай бұрын

​@@SewSewLoungejust put your armhole on the serger bed with the inside of the sleeve facing up and the armhole seam to the right and serge. You don't have to serge it flat.

Thank you so much for this! I am new to sewing - especially to machine sewing - and haven't liked the zigzag option. I don't have a serger and so far I have only finished seams by hand flat felling.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

You are welcome! I’m looking forward to making my armhole seams look nice too ☺️

The purpose of finishing a seam is to prevent fraying into the seam line, to improve durability, and lastly, to improve appearance. This technique is usually necessary on woven fabric. It can be done with an over locker, a zigzag stitch, seam tape, flat felled, French seam, and many other techniques depending on the fabric and the application. The first objective is to prevent fraying. The purpose is to wear the garment and have the garment last. To insist on one particular method that one’s grandmother used may not be applicable to every situation. To reject a serger because it’s a modern development is to perhaps, deny oneself of a wonderful, quick, easy,perfect solution. The method depends on the location of the need for the edge finishing and the purpose of the garment. And since we are each queen of our own sewing room, we get to pick our favorite method and use it whenever we want to. my grandma would’ve been first in line to try anything that would do an adequate job and save time.🥳 I admire the old ways and embrace the new!

@SewSewLounge

Ай бұрын

I use my serger of straight seams and alternate seam finishes for armholes. Whatever works best!

I made a light cover up with only the armholes pinked and everything else bias taped. Can you guess where it fell apart when I threw it in the wash? Lesson learned! 😅

@SewSewLounge

25 күн бұрын

I was taught to pink edges too and it never holds up in the wash. It makes me wondering if everyone was still hand washing clothes when pinking was a popular seam finish?!?

@Kthenerd14

25 күн бұрын

@@SewSewLounge I have to assume that or washers were significantly gentler back then, but really who knows!

I'll have to try the faux French seam - I usually make regular French seam finishes on lighter-weight wovens now because I want the inside to look nice, as you do, plus I think the garment will wear better.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

I don’t have a lot of experience with French seams. In college we were taught that they were only for straight seams, which obviously wasn’t entirely true.

@user-wu7sv6hr7v

5 ай бұрын

@@SewSewLounge Yes, I was surprised to find I could make a French seam on an inside shoulder seam - but I did and was so proud of myself 😄!

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

@@user-wu7sv6hr7v I’m proud of you too!! 🎉🎉🎉

This is so helpful thank you

@SewSewLounge

3 ай бұрын

You are very welcome Lina!

Because of my arthritis i tend to attach the sleeve with out it beign a tube, and the side of tbe shirt open. I typical work with a surger my self.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Good to know!

The hem or armhole? Armholes can be serged or zigzaged. Hems Narrow Rolled under then under hem about 2 cm hem . It depends if it’s a short or long sleeve Flat felled edge is okay if the sleeve is casual. Not a formal tailored shirt. Lands End does flat felled sleeves on their Oxford shirts. What about bias tape? Won’t that add bulk? And you have to topstitch!

@sandrarose7129

5 ай бұрын

I think the zig zag edge runs the risk of being uncomfortable for the wearer. I want people to wear what size make and be comfortable

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

As mentioned, zig zag doesn’t look great or hold up in the wash very well.

I've done flat felled on heavier weight fabrics, "faux" French, where after the seam is sewn rs to rs, I fold the seam allowances in to hide the raw edge & sew together--but a true French seam is actually a lot easier than either of these--though it's scary at first, once the ws to ws is done, sewing the final seam is actually much easier to control than w/out it!

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Good to know! I’m looking forward to trying out some new finishes.

@RunningWithScissors-th8jo

5 ай бұрын

I agree! I used French seams on three Easter dresses this year. The bodices and lining are satin and French seams really made the armholes look so nice! ~Nancy

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

@@RunningWithScissors-th8jo they sound beautiful Nancy! Thanks for sharing ❤️

Thank you so much for showing, great tips! One tip for you: Tell less, showing is enough! ❤

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Ok thanks! 😉

@francesgiacobbe6821

2 ай бұрын

@@SewSewLounge No No! Both your oral explanation and visual samples are fabulous! You did not over talk!!

I use a Hong Kong binding with thin China silk bias tape.

@SewSewLounge

4 ай бұрын

My plan is to figure out how to make my own bias tape so I can do a hong kong seam finish... maybe one day.

@pambain9415

4 ай бұрын

@@SewSewLounge there is a company that sells rolls of 1 and 2 inch rolls of China silk bias tape in white, which can be dyed. Easy, peasy.

@SewSewLounge

4 ай бұрын

@@pambain9415 do you remember the name of the company? That sounds so much easier than making my own 🤣

If you really want a pretty finish, you can do a Hong Kong finish. That way you won’t have a stitch seam on the right side of fabric.

@lbrowning2543

5 ай бұрын

Isn’t that sewing bias tape each side of the seam? How does it work on lightweight fabrics or blouses? I’ve always been afraid it might show as bulk when ironed, but am open to trying. I may have used it once with a sort of heavy underlined dress. I didn’t do well on the sleeves with it, but that was the first and last time I tried it, could have been me.

@sheelaghhalstead4549

5 ай бұрын

In high school we used a fine lawn to made a baby's dress with little puff sleeves. There was quite a lot of bulk from the gathers on the sleeve side. I don't think the mock french seam or enclosed seam would have worked. We were taught to bind the seam with bias tape so there would be little chaffing on the baby's skin. I think it was fine despite the delicate fabric.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

I have plans to do some Hong Kong seam finishes, but I wanted to make my own bias tape. That’s a whole process and I haven’t had a chance to get to it yet!

Any suggestions for a puffed sleeve?

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

I don’t know as I don’t make puffed sleeves. I’ll have to ask my grandma. She used to make dresses for me when I was little and they always had puffed sleeves!

@carrieyardley822

5 ай бұрын

@@SewSewLounge can't wait to hear what Grandma has to say! These are the first puffed sleeves I've put in since 1994.

If i would do a zigzag i would use a smaller zigzag

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching

Make life easier for yourself, flat fell the armhole before sewing the side seam. I use whichever seam finish I think will suit the fabric. I do not subscribe to the 'sew it by hand is always better' philosophy. My grandmother would have embraced any new technology that did a satisfactory job as fast as possible. No one wants to use a hand mangle to squeeze water out of fabric after washing, or heats an iron over an open flame; why reject the use of a serger if it produces a good finish? I do not however use a dryer after washing my clothes, as the extra heat and friction can drammatically reduce the lifespan of a garment. I line dry, or use a dehumidifier in the winter to help dry my clothes and have not had major issues with serged seam finishes. With a really ravelly fabric I might use a 2 or 3 thread serged seam as the first stage of a french seam.

@SewSewLounge

4 күн бұрын

Good tips! My grandma embraces technology too. She remembers the first electric iron that had to be plugging into the light socket hanging from the ceiling!

And for my part, my eyeballs have rolled up into the back of my head 😮

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Don’t worry, you don’t haven’t to even attempt it!

I use Hug Snug.

@SewSewLounge

5 ай бұрын

Fascinating! I did not know such a product existed. Thanks for the tip ☺️

@carolblair2845

5 ай бұрын

What is hug snug please?

@TheVelvetKitten

5 ай бұрын

@@carolblair2845 it is a vintage seam binding. Made of rayon.