Helpful hint: Often, the threaded studs which the plastic nuts secure to are corroded & will snap when you rotate the nuts. If this happens, the snapped studs (which are welded to the chassis) will need to be ground off. Centre punch where these were. Pilot drill these (3mm maybe), then drill to 12mm. (note you may need to wiggle the 12mm drill bit in each hole to make fractionally bigger) Paint these areas with some kind of primer or Hammerite to prevent corrosion. Place a 6mm Well nut (google it) in each hole. Replace wheel arch liner & use FLANGED HEXAGON HEAD BOLTS STAINLESS STEEL M6 16mm long to thread into the Well nuts. The Well nuts have a 13mm rubber cylindrical bit surrounding a metal m6 thread. The rubber expands, gripping the 12mm holes in the chassis that you drilled.

I like the Saab dealer display on the garage wall. Solid work 👍🏾

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

Thanks! 👍 it was a great addition

This is a great help. I live in the uk and i just bought a cab saab 9-3 aero 2006 2 litre as my first car, instantly fell in love with it. I just stumbled across your channel and definitely will be subscribing. Keep up the great work brother you’re the man.

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

Great to hear! Thanks :)

Cześć. Oglądam Cię już kilka lat. Zawsze bardzo dobre filmy. Mam już 4 Saaba i kocham je tak jak ty;) Pozdrawiam z Polski Hubert

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

Thanks Hubert! I appreciate your support!

Thanks for this in-depth video. It’s instructive and very good visually, esp. considering you’re working in a tight spot.

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

Glad it was helpful! Thank you

Ugh....last year I was driving down the highway in my 9-3 when my battery not charging warning appeared. I was going to pull off at next rest area to check things out when I heard pieces of the belt hitting the underside of the car and saw a nice long piece in the rear view mirror. Since I was in the middle of nowhere with no tools, I just kept going until I came to a town and (thankfully) a GM dealership. 45 minutes later and $450....painful lesson. If it was giving warning signs, I wasn't paying attention.

@zk9964

6 ай бұрын

They charged you $450 to replace a belt….?

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

Ugh! That’s brutal :( at least you made it to town

@petercyprian3096

5 ай бұрын

@@zk9964 Yes.....NOT happy about it either, especially considering that if I had been close enough to home, I would have changed it out myself for the cost of the belt (Advance or Autozone price!). There is a reason I call it the "Stealership".

That is the cleanest pulley side of a 2.0T I have seen yet. Nice. Dude the first time I did one of those tensioners, I spent a couple hours looking for a way to extract that bolt either with or without the tensioner....all while colorfully describing the engineers in charge of that design. Eventually I figured out there is a path to take that long dang bolt and tensioner along to work it out of there pretty easy. It literally is a maze to run it through to get to the bottom of the frame. Still a great engine though, if cared for properly.

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

Definitely, just a PITA job! 🙃

Very good my friend

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

Thank you! Cheers!

Oh man that was brutal! I had a similar experience yesterday while pulling off the AC compressor bracket on my Subaru...I could turn the bolt like 3 degrees at a time. It was hilariously frustrating. I could almost hear that Creed song playing in the distance LOL

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

LMAO. that sucks! You end up with a bad hand cramp after

Wow. Tough job and you were fearless. Wonder what the book says for the trick to getting that tensioner in place.

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

WIS is unfortunately very unhelpful here. “Remove wheel and wheel liner, release tension on belt, remove tensioner” lol

Hey just started to do my research on Saabs . And i found you so i will be benjing for awhile. What got my intrest is the 9-7, but normally when i switch brands i have to buy my partner something. So i like your information on the sedans.

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

Happy to assist 👍🏼

The belt has an easier route than ( my own) previous OG 9-3 , but seems more difficult to access in order to replace it

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

Definitely. It’s a shame the tensioner is a pain 🤣

When the video started I said. Have to remove the motor mount and it’s still a pain in the ass. I cursed Saab engineers a few times working on that side of the engine.

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

Not fun :((

Bro if you really love your subscribers you’ll do a giveaway only to me for a head unit. Preferably the Apple car play one 👀

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

Haha. I would love to. I probably couldn’t do a giveaway for that but probably could do something else 🤔🤔

One thing I did differently was I dropped the motor 2 inches or so and was able to attach both tensioner and idler pulley on faster and easier. Other than that all the same. Good video!

@AutoAutopsy

3 ай бұрын

Good tip, thanks 😁👍🏼

hola, el motor del saab es de esos que al romperse la banda cuando esta andando se apaga y si se intenta encender se destruye algo en el motor, como los coches de volkswagen

Hey. Great. Another informative video! One thing though. The oil leak looks like it might be from the timing chain cover. When this starts leaking on a 9-3 it can be the beginnings of trouble. My 2004 Aero was leaking from the chain cover for a while and then the water pump broke. I thought I could just replace the water pump but no. I was told by a Saab specialist that if the water pump breaks 9 times out of ten the timimg chain guide has broken. So I gave them the job and yep broken guides. The timimg chain tensioner pushes the guides against the chain but after the guide broke the tensioner was pushing against the chain. It was noiser but still ran. After the repair the engine was so much queiter. My Saab had done around 225 thousand kilometres by this point. Just thought I'd share this info. If your water pump starts dripping you'll now why. Cheers from downunder.

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

thanks for the heads up and for watching! It is definitely at that mileage (175k), but it really seems to be coming from the crank seal. hmm…I’m half tempted to do water pump, chain guides etc. 🤔 going to be so much work though

Had to do this job on the paddock asphalt at what would have been the world rallycross track named Hell back in 2020 when mine snapped the second we arrived at the track. Local shop had exactly one belt left and no special tool so we used a 3/8th breaker bar and another bar to push the engine back on its mounts to we could shove the breaker in there to fit the tensioner. Would not recommend. belt snapped due to oil getting on it so i changed the infamous seals down at the crankshaft and the servo pump later on, but that was at my shop and not on a track thankfully

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

Ahh! Brutal :(

I just did this a few days ago. I didn't try to go in from below. I used a jack with a wood pad under the engine and removed the engine mount and the bracket from the engine. If you jack the engine up a couple of inches the tensioner bolt comes clear of the frame rail and is easily removed and reinserted. I removed the wheel but not the wheel liner to enable aligning the belt on the crank and A/C pulley. The total job took less than 1.5 hours. You wasted time removing the wheel liner and trying to go in from below. I had previously made my own tensioner tool using a piece of flat bar and a piece cut off a small 3/8" square drive extension welded into a hole. That way you can clock the stub at 45 degrees. Lastly, those plastic nuts on the body studs for the wheel liner will break them off if you don't first heat them up a bit with a torch or a heat gun before removing them.

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

Good tip. WIS is definitely useless in a case like this. It tells you to go from underneath, remove the wheel and liner, and then magically remove the belt and tensioner, as if it’s easy and obvious lol

@akahan1

9 күн бұрын

@rickclayton1806, I'm confused - what was the point of removing the wheel if you weren't going to remove the wheel liner? What does removing the wheel accomplish if you're doing the whole job from above the engine bay?

@rickclayton1806

9 күн бұрын

@@akahan1 You need to wrap the new belt around the crank pulley and AC compressor pulley from below. I fyou don't get all the ribs properly engaged the belt will shred itself quite quickly.

Your timing cover gasket or the O ring on the crank seal is most likely the cause of that leak. Nowhere near as bad as mine was though. Send it🤝 it’s not a fun job either.

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

You sure? It seems to only be coming from the area around the crank

@jaysonvankampen1695

5 ай бұрын

@@AutoAutopsy probably the crankshaft seal O ring. Its brown and you can get the kit from esaab. Thats not as bad as the timing cover I’ve done that as well🤣

How does the noise sound is like before repair? Did you record it?

@AutoAutopsy

11 күн бұрын

I did not get a clip, sorry. it was a typical intermittent belt squealing sound

Where can I buy those rims?

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

I bought them on tire rack years ago but they are no longer available in 5x110

Do you have the belt # Thanks

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

7:28 mark

what rims are those?

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

Sport edition p3 👍🏼

😎🤘🇸🇪

@AutoAutopsy

5 ай бұрын

🙌🏼