When someone emailed me this morning to say Hambini had done a Cotic episode, I have to admit I was thinking of trying to find some vasiline to ease the pain, but I'm overall pretty happy with that. I'm glad you picked up on the details we work hard on, and every Cotic frame is hand finished, faced and chased in the UK so every frame has our eyes on it before it goes to a customer. As for the corrosion, it looks alarming, but we have been doing bikes like this for nearly 20 years and I can't think of one that has corroded inside out. We have had a couple of our older Roadrat and Escapade frames die after years of being salt bathed on commutes without touching up paint chips, but that's it. It is worth noting that the internal corrosion protection is part of our workmanship and materials defects 5 year warranty, so if by some unlikely chance the frame did corrode through we would replace it. Ultimately our aim is try and be better than that and make long lasting frames that people don't put in the recycling bin (unlike carbon which breaks and then is landfill) and I would expect that frame to last a long, long time. I am not above criticism though, and I will be taking up with our frame vendor about the e-coat process again and the weld spatter. As for some of the comments: - Head tube concentricity: Big, relatively thin wall metal head tubes deform under weld heating. They just do. They key is understanding by how much and making sure than when you post-fab ream the frame there will always be enough material left. That's why you can occasionally see a couple of tenths of mm difference in wall thickness side-to-side and front-to-back. The facing and reaming process ensures the important thing, that the headset is concentric and square. - Chainstay clearance differences: Again, this is manufacturing pragmatism. The drive side stays are bent and crimped differently to the non-drive side for chainring clearance, and bending processing are relatively imprecise compared to moulding a carbon frame or CNC machining something. So, the stays around the crank ends are to a tolerance of +-2mm lateral location. Overall the tolerance is always within the minimum width required to fit the narrowest crank we're aware of (and I'll admit I haven't checked those Rotor cranks, but they're narrow) so cranks will always fit, even if there's a mm or so difference in cleareance side to side. In my opinion, that doesn't matter so long as it clearance, and so long as the critical items like chainring and tyre clearance and dropout spacing and alignment are spot on, which they should be. Those dimensions are much more tightly controlled from a tolerance point of view. This means our chainstay tubes can be bent to realistic tolerances and still provide the key dimensional requirements. Hope that's of interest. Cheers, Cy Turner Founder and Director Cotic Bikes

@LuxonMX

Жыл бұрын

I'm betting some of that internal corrosion is actually due to some remnant chips from the facing and chasing process. It's the chips (that are uncoated raw steel) corroding rather than the base metal of the frame. So, pretty much a non-issue.

@davidfarrimond8891

Жыл бұрын

And with that reply I would happily buy one of your frames/ bikes with confidence. Thanks for the great response. Hambini has his own style but he is only trying to make things better, bless his cotton socks.

@p504504

Жыл бұрын

@@LuxonMX Yup, plus it's blind rust.. Non-issue. You should see my Mazda MX-5 lol. After getting that car I personally waxoyl every bike frame I build :D

@olrenison

Жыл бұрын

Good to see a reply here from Cy himself. I love Cotic frames. My last was a Rocket and I have 100% confidence in Cotic frames. They are beautifully made and the company as a whole are really fantastic. There is nothing in this video that would concern me about this frame. They go on forever.

@Ry_Rides

Жыл бұрын

I love my cotic BfeMax!

I would love to see more mountain bikes here.

@pablocarbajo5545

Жыл бұрын

Wow! A prize! Maybe a free haircut?

@lucywucyyy

2 ай бұрын

same id be interested to see some suspension designs get reamed

That’s an IS mount (International Standard) I believe. But it’s easy to get an IS to Post Mount adapter. Interestingly, I love these bikes and once had a job interview at Cotic and met the founder Cy, but missed out on the job. I’ve since had a lot more experience and still hope to join their team one day!

@Adam_Antium

Жыл бұрын

Yup, IS 2000.

Internal humidity in the frame is why you always take the bike indoors and remove your seat post every so often to dry it out. A spot of grease at the back of the joint between seat tube and seat post will be sufficient to stop the majority of water ingress. Never go with internal cabling on a steel bike, just more holes to get water in

The through axle is a system from Syntace called X12. There is an nut clamped on the drive side for wheel alignement, 3 version of the nut are available, 0, 0.5 and 1mm off eccentricity. meaning you an adjust the camber of your rearwheel by loosening the bolt and and axle, then turn the nur into the desired position to get it straight. Usually it is done by the manufacturer, check for a small mark on the nut, which should align with the gap. And the hanger bolt is a break away part in case of a bigger crash, so you dont have to buy an expensive hanger but a fairly cheap aluminium screw.

That frame will probably last 45 years like my race bike. Getting the alignment and joints done right as in this case counts for a lot. Likely the safety margins are sufficient to tolerate some degradation due to corrosion. Corrosion also can be slowed significantly if treated properly.

@Hambini

Жыл бұрын

I don't think it will perforate in any short period of time BUT the chances of problems are increased on this bike because of the lack of drainage and MTB use. The claims that it has been dipped to prevent corrosion are also somewhat dubious.

@leeghathaway

Жыл бұрын

@@Hambini Their claims are true. The frame would be submerged in a series of cleaning baths with one being a zinc phosphate conversion pre-treatment. After pre-treating the frames are then submerged in an Epoxy Electrophoretic deposition coating. Rust is most likely present due to a lack of a pickling stage in pre-treatment. A pickle would be needed to remove any oxide build-up.

I am a steel frame fan, and I have seen corrosion like that on some bikes I've worked on over the years. For my personal bikes I treat the inside of the frame with ACF50 or car cavity wax when new which seems to prevent corrosion reasonably well.

@janeblogs324

Жыл бұрын

Mos2 for real rust prevention. You need sulfur. Basically hypoid differential oil or moly, you can mix it in any cavity waxes

@mcspikesky

Жыл бұрын

@@janeblogs324 look into ACF50

@CodSlap

10 ай бұрын

For the insides of steel frames, Fluid Film Liquid A is my go-to. Slosh it around, let the excess drip out and leave whatever’s in the frame to creep around. Non-toxic, solventless oil that eats away at any existing rust, sticks to the bare metal and forms a liquid barrier, preventing further rust from forming. I have a frame that’s stayed treated but unbuilt for six years now, and the stuff just doesn’t dry out. It reacts with the moisture in the air to stay liquid. Big on the jeep undercoat and snow equipment side of things, among others. Took me a fair amount of research, trial and error to find the stuff. I wish someone had told me about the stuff at get-go when I got into bikes, so whoever’s reading this: you’re welcome. 🙂

Super interesting! But as a roadie and an MTB rider I may be biased. Steel is popular off-road because of its general toughness and resistance to impact damage and scarring and scraping. An extra kilo of frame weight is really not relevant when the system weight i.e rider, backpack, bottle, clothing, is around 100Kg. Turns out that your comments regarding corrosion are well placed. I did some forum and manufacturer research and there are quite a few reports of internal corrosion damage slowly perforating right through the thin gauge (1mm or less wall) alloy steel tubing used in higher end steel frames. Seems to be between 12 and 25 years of age before perforation, unless drain holes are blocked and the bike is living in tropical climates. No mention of complete frame failure, most people have a patch welded in and a repaint. Obviously there are loads of vintage steel frames of great age and still riding around without obvious damage. Higher end frame makers definitely worry about internal corrosion. Their websites all have sections on how to reduce and contain internal corrosion, mostly by clearing drain holes and using specialised protection coatings, sprayed or rinsed in. Mostly paraffin wax-oil based, like car body coatings. They also recommend removing the seat pin occasionally and checking and re-coating.

@Hambini

Жыл бұрын

^^^Owner of the bike^^^

@Hambini

Жыл бұрын

You can read the repsonse from Cotic Here www.hambini.com/new-bike-frame-corroding-after-2-months-cotic/

@AeronN7

Жыл бұрын

Uploaded 41 minutes ago but your pinned comment says 4 weeks ago. WTF?

@Hambini

Жыл бұрын

@@AeronN7 uploaded 6 weeks ago. Make public an hour ago

@grahamwhiting6567

Жыл бұрын

@@AeronN7 simple - the comment was made when this video was released on Patreon

The frame tubes are made of cromoly or possibly a similar HSLA steel from Reynolds. But it's usual to weld this with a mild-steel filler rod (cromoly rods are too brittle). Cromoly is more rust-resistant than mild steel which may be why the areas of weld-through, which contain a higher concentration of mild steel, are rusting first. Idk what those blobs are but unlikely to be spatter as TIG welding doesn't create any unless you're doing it seriously badly (but as you observed these Taiwanese frame builders are pretty accomplished). Maybe bits of swarf that fell in when reaming, facing or chasing things? Anyway the frame would benefit from some "framesaver" product or just oil on those inside surfaces.

LOVED the conclusion. Really thought-provoking

@Xune2000

Жыл бұрын

Truly profound! It left me speechless.

2:19 This is a IS mount International Standard), the adapter you need is a IS to PM(International standard to post mount) These were common on old school MTB forks too, but it's no longer used on forks, but still common on frames. Post mounts are still the norm, but still many frames with IS mount.

Great video! would love to see more MTBs on here 🤙👌

the reinforcements are also called gussets when we are talking velos the dropout is a Syntace X12 that uses a fine threat and also clamps the replaceable derailleur hanger that has a predetermined breaking position - quite useful with MTBs as well as Gravel bikes …

PLEEEAAASSSEEEE do more Mountain Bike Frames. I have almost no idea which manufacturers provice quality frames and which don't.

@hannes6114

9 ай бұрын

Biggest one would be quality of carbon but of course also aluminium

Cotic have an almost cult like following, and are renowned for making really great bikes 👍🏻

@robm8809

Жыл бұрын

I have a COTIC and I love it. :)

Weld splatter on a tigged frame usually indicates dissimilar base metal. I imagine they have worked out the materials to a safe level. Shoot some JP Weigle Frame Saver inside. Will be good for the next 20 years. Brakes are ISO. Drops are Syntace X-13..Great video..

There's not much I can say about it apart from BRILLIANT! ❤

Excellent video as always.

Looks like as well as allowing its polishing to add bling factor, there was a good reason for fully chrome platting steel frames. My 1990s Italian frames, all full chromed, are currently rust free after a fair few Welsh winters. I do spend time washing down after rides in shite weather with special care if any chance of road salting.

@luukrutten1295

Жыл бұрын

Full chrome plating sometimes only increased corrosion rates because of the acids used in treating it. Which sometimes stayed behind in small quantities inside the frame tubes.

I didn't watch the entire video yet. But in my opinion there should be a 3mm hole in the bottom of the bottom bracket housing. It makes sure that humidity can leave the frame so that water can drip out of it. Very important. It prevents rust. Cheers

@sepg5084

Жыл бұрын

Steel will rust, that's just inevitable unless it has anti-rust coatings or it is stainless (even stainless can rust).

@janeblogs324

Жыл бұрын

Always, otherwise the BB fills with water and the bearings will be flooded

The wishbone seat stays used to make sense with cantilever brakes. The shorter seat stays didn't bend as easy when the brake pushed them to the outside. With disc brakes, it's pointless, unless you want the classic look.

Now that's the Ham we missed.... keep up the moisture in the tub of yours.

I own a number of steel frames over 30yrs old, busy restoring a frame nearly 70yrs old. If they are looked after (not left outside) and some rust prevention done inside they will outlast aluminium and carbon

@rollinrat4850

Жыл бұрын

Yup, I'm restoring a custom Albert Eisentraut from the mid '70s. Almost no rust inside at all. Coat the inside of your frame with something. Frame saver works well. If you're pretty cheap, linseed oil works good, just don't weld on the frame afterwards! Don't power wash your bike. In the shop I find customer's BBs and hubs full of water all the time. Anytime you ride in wet conditions, pull out the seatpost, flip it over and let water drain out for at least half a day. Really simple and it works!! If you ride in cold wet weather, especially if it's caked in snow or ice, DONT bring the bike into a warm place afterwards. Capillary action will draw moisture into the frame. I've broken one mtb frame from corrosion. I rode it through knee deep creeks over and over and always power washed it then kept it in my warm house and ignored it. I try to learn from my mistakes....

@smallbutheavy9664

Жыл бұрын

Also my experience with several steel frames, aged between 70 en 30 years. Some of them were left alone outside, the paint vanished en there was quite some corrosion, but not inside !? A French randonneuse made of Vitus 980 (so lightweight that I was frightened to use it) had newspaper sheets stuffed into the main tubes next to the bottom bracket. Never saw this before, my guess is that this was meant to catch humidity.

@rollinrat4850

Жыл бұрын

@@smallbutheavy9664 I put newspaper in my shoes after a wet ride. It works great. It's like putting wet electronics in dry rice. Problem is I refuse to pay for the propaganda anymore! Lots of high end steel frames had cutouts in the bb shell. THIS really works too, believe it or not.

Never get bored of the intro 😂

@AeronN7

Жыл бұрын

HELLOOOOOOOOO

Hehehe I had very old bikes you would had nightmares for a moth if you look inside. Those rust spots are totally fine IMO,some places you can´t reach to clean the welds, Cotic response is spot on. Steel is real...but real heavy compared to any other material hehehe. I love steel bikes for commuting, love my steel dirt jump bike. I have rescued many many old bikes,mostly commuters and 1 or 2 road bikes. Those brake mounts are IS not post mount and the rear end I think is more for comfort,to soften the trails in your butt. Love to see MTB stuff, we need more!I bet some new enduro&trail bikes would bend your mind a little hehehehe.

@Fetherko

Жыл бұрын

Are you referring to the uni-crown rear triangle?

I've several steel bikes, all with BSA threaded BBs. I'd strongly recommend fitting any BB with an appropriate grease, and removing and refitting every couple of years. I've just had to resort to a 24inch spanner 🔧 encouraged with a brass hammer 🔨 to get the BB out of my old Kona MTB, to be fair, it's probably been in there nearly 20years, and the bike gets used in all weather for commuting, but it was nearly the end for the frame.

@chris1275cc

Жыл бұрын

I use Liqui Moly Brake Pad Anti Squeal Paste (Recommended by a Ti frame builder) on all my threaded BB's its about the most tenacious grease type stuff you can find and works better than copper slip as a retaining compound, it also prevents the "ticks" that develop on some lighter steel and most Ti frames. Only downside its so thick and sticky (That's what she said) it can lead you to under torque as its like treading into treacle.

@tomekborucki1120

Жыл бұрын

Every couple of years. Working as mechanic for 15 yrs and I would not recommended to wait "years" to do that. Especially steel frames. Wet uk conditions should motivate to do it at least 1 per year if bike used more frequently incl bad weather conditions. For everyday user doing that twice a year is a good idea. That's my experience servicing thousands of bikes.

@simonm1447

Жыл бұрын

This is not just a steel frame thing. On a aluminium frame a steel BB can corrode into the frame without grease in the threads after just a couple of years too if the bike is driven at the coast or in salty winters.

those are international standard 51mm brake mount. post mount is the more commonly used 74mm manatou style mount you see today. post mount kind of took over from IS mount due to being easier to make adapters for fittting larager rotors.

quite interesting! I was looking on getting a custom steel fat bike frame from a local builder with awesome more modern geo and was wondering about rustproofing after welding on the frame, especially since I live in such a cold climate that has potential salt intrusion here in Calgary Alberta. Some good comments on how to spray the inside of the frame to inhebit oxidation.

now that was a proper intro.

The stuff at the bottom of the seat tube is probably material from the frame finishing, like bottle hole drilling and seat tube reaming. There's probably not an extra step to make sure all that material is gone at the factory. It's fine. Nobody should get a steel frame without dosing the hell out of it with framesaver anyway, "coated" or not. It's like greasing a thread. Those are indeed vent holes. The seatstay configuration could be due to a welding robot needing access.

I use steel frame gravel bike for everyday use and I wash it from time to time. Time for me to do some corrosion prevention and reduction since its been exposed to rain this winter.

6:11 that could be down to the tyres, tyre make a huge difference how well the tyre transitions, how fast it transitions/changes direction, transitions from side knobs to mid thread. Problem with Bikeradar reviews is a lot of the miss crucial issues, talking points, like with the clothing, where they don't mention the measurements of the rider, the clothing, and to give an idea how it fits. But as they blocked links I can't post links to my own pictures, as the comment gets auto deleted. So at least I posted some critique, suggestions, and wrote my findings on the Endura gear. But a lot of the component reviews don't go that in-depth. There is a lack of proper reviews. I write reviews of stuff I use. I hope more people do the same.

Not post mount but IS 2000. It’s a great standard because it puts the threading on a cheap replaceable adapter rather than on the fork or frame.

This frame looks well finished. Not so often we see BB faces flattened. 👍 BTW, 30mm axle in a BSA frame doesn't leave a ton of room. (Especially with Rotor BSA30 cups) It can happen if some sand/dirty find it's way in the BB shell it is slowly "grinding" the aluminium shaft. So better take out the crankset a bit more often for inspection & cleaning.

@Fetherko

Жыл бұрын

Can I install a square taper axle in there? :)

@stephanelouvet1113

Жыл бұрын

@@Fetherko yes. BSA and square taper have a long story together !

@smallbutheavy9664

Жыл бұрын

In my opinion, a square taper axle as a complete cartridge of old fashion can be installed.

@uk53781

Жыл бұрын

Did you not watch the video?

glad to know hambini thinks cotics are well made, because im building an older one up right now, really hyped on it

Hambini time !!!

Nice interesting video from a groovy manufacturer. Well done all round. Except the guy wanting a weird spec.

Another fantastic video again telling us all. Bring on the hoodies!!!!!!!

@Hambini

Жыл бұрын

I think you mean pencil skirt dress not hoodies!

Mic blast of mic blasts. Gonna have to sample that. I'd love to take you MTBing and we can film it. Don't know why OP wouldn't just use XT crank and bsa 24mm. No soft alu axle crap, a stronger bb, no spacers and bullshit.

@dadama66

Жыл бұрын

My thoughts exactly. XT crank and BSA 24mm BB. Boom done!

@janeblogs324

Жыл бұрын

Saint !

@Hambini

Жыл бұрын

The owner wanted q rings hence the rotor axle The wider market trend is for 30mm and 29mm axles to avoid the Shimano patent. Irrespective of the technical deficiencies which I agree with entirely, it's a situation that is coming.

The gap between the crank and the chainstay is a mm or two! The owner is a very brave man...

@smallbutheavy9664

Жыл бұрын

Greetings to Q

@PaoloLuraschi

Жыл бұрын

I had the same impression looking at the video, especially on the non drive side. Not sure if it is really so or just due to the camera viewing angle. If the gap is really so small there is something wrong on this build, on a MTB you will have troubles with mud and other stuff in between the crank and frame.

@vromaka

Жыл бұрын

@@PaoloLuraschi Exactly, for MTB this gap is very small, with all the dirt on a crank, it will act like a file/sandpaper on a chainstay.

...also, that rear axle clamp thing... The clamp tightens down on the aluminum insert with the threads, Fox does it on nicer forks, you tighten down the wheel the first time to load the bearings (set the axle spacing) then clamp down the frame so the aluminum threded insert stays in place.

I have a steel bike and I live near the sea, RH is invariably 60% plus. I've had the bike like for decades. Mind you I am a fair weather biker, but I don't have any corrosion in the tubes. It is Reynolds 531DB.

Does the BB thread require copper slip to stop the titanium and steel galling or suffering galvanic corrosion?

I think the rust if near the welded joints was due to heat from the welding plus the humidity where it was made, purging with an inert gas would help this hot oxidization not normally done with the welding of steel. the weld spatter would also be solved with gas purging with an inert gas like argon, purging helps penetration of the weld too. If they did not wont to do this then sand blasting with a long sand blasting nozzle to get to the effected joint a very dusty prosses, better of done in a booth, if you can find one big enough, glass bead blasting is better because it distorts less, and you must protect all the thread, then air gun all the frame, then waxing it inside if the owner of the frame wants to do it

We don't have any road worthiness inspections here in the US. But if a coper pulls you over he/she/it can give you a fix-it ticket for any deviations he/she/it notices during the traffic stop. Then you have to fix it and get it inspected. I'm amazed at the junk driving on our streets.

Nice KuruToga mechanical pencil!

Hi Hambini, where can I find that Kingdom Vendetta video? I considering buying such frame and wonder how bad is it ;) also, how about Planet X and Titus Ti? Prices are great

Oh I missed new episodes from you ;)

I've had to fiddle with spacers of different sizes on each side of the spindle before and it got me wondering if it is possible to end up with a symmetrical left/right crank position after doing so? Also, how is the pinned comment 4 weeks old but the video was posted yesterday?

15:43 🤣👍 Much Love for this hurtingly true words

My Cotic Solaris is 3y old and after watching this video curiosity got the better of me. BB and dropper removed with no obvious signs of rust.

Cotic is like Time or Look in mtb, they did really creative stuff some 10 years ago with hardtail geometry (during the time when long low slack wasnt as widespread for mtb), maybe QR is not perfect but overall they are the good guys.

@chimps4gimps

Жыл бұрын

They copied BTR Fabrications 😉

@oreocarlton3343

Жыл бұрын

@@chimps4gimps they did crazy and brave things as well, but Cotic toned it down to make a great trail hardtail, BTR is almost downhill specific in geometry.

@grahamwhiting6567

Жыл бұрын

I run both BTR Pinner (5 years) and Cotic ( this frame) BTR we’re way ahead in design and execution of steel MTB. They are twice the price of Cotic but beautifully built in UK. Cotic have a good place - it’s a Taiwanese bike with good geometry at a sensible price - but it’s no BTR.

@oreocarlton3343

Жыл бұрын

@@grahamwhiting6567 BTR is far more progressive geometry than Cotic, I think if it's one bike only it's Cotic all the way, on the descents BTR looks to win every time

@chimps4gimps

Жыл бұрын

@@oreocarlton3343 i disagree. Mainly as I own a BTR Ranger (frame 247). I demo’d the full Cotic range at the time and they were just numb by comparison. If I was going to recommend another (similar) brand it would be Stanton.

Is that (or near to) the backside of a hole at 8:55? Because that looks like swarf (That's the twisty corkscrew type stuff that comes out of a hole being drilled for the uninitiated) you can see the metal curls. If its not a hole it could just be that it was loose in the frame and then got caught in the joint, Not a big deal if it is but it will probably break off at some point and go rattling around the frame.

What kind of anti-corrosion treatment do you use inside the frame? On airplanes we spray Corrosion-X inside the wings & inner fuselage areas, works well. You could do something similar with a bike frame.

did you serously just mounted bb cups and a crank without grease copper paste or any other paste?

I owned a cotic roadrat, cotic are very solid bikes

Got to be honest looks a really nice frame I'd be well happy with it with the bit of rust sorted out.

@simonm1447

Жыл бұрын

I have 2 cromoly steel bikes, one from '89 and one from '93. Both had been given away for free, both with Mannesmann cromoly frame sets (the company don't exist any more). None of them has severe corrosion issues, despite the age.

I know you've talked a lot about the problems of 30mm and 29mm (SRAM) axle spindles, so how did they come about? was it just patent dodging?

@uk53781

Жыл бұрын

Marketing, Its true to say a larger tube can be stiffer and lighter, they just dont mention the down sides.

That BB 😍

I've got a special coating solution, it's called smegseal, shake the applicator vigorously to dispense the pre mixed batch correctly.

@PeakTorque

Жыл бұрын

Horrificata.

@fartlord5000

Жыл бұрын

Smegseal is your mom's favorite product, she uses it on all her bikes. But it's quite odorous, I actually had your mother bent over a Serotta and the smell of rotten ball sack distracted me so much I couldn't finish.

@mrnobody9821

Жыл бұрын

@Peak Torque spooky glue 👻

1:44 non PC Hambini makes me lol every time

i have much more rust on my custom made steel frame. It is from columbus spririt tubes and only 8 month old. The good thing is you can sort things out and don't have to e-mail x times before getting a new frame that isn't better

I ride steel exclusivity on road and gravel. I just treat the frame with framesaver every so often, no issues with corrosion. Takes a little more maintenance, can't just hang it up wet. Not a good rain bike.

The little bit of rust is probably not going to cause big issues if you spray the frame with some internal wax now. These types of frame steels wont immediately turn into a pile of rust. It likely has some overdimensioned tubes anyway. Its more likely to get damaged in a crash in its service life than from corrosion. But its worth keeping an eye on it and keeping things clean.

@rollinrat4850

Жыл бұрын

Unless you power wash your bike often, ride it underwater and or ignore it, steel frames won't usually fail from rust. If you sweat lots LIGHTLY rinse the areas where sweat drips. DONT RIDE ON BEACHES. Salt kills bikes. Remove the seatpost and flip the bike over for at least 1/2 a day after wet rides. Eeeezy peeezy! 🤙

Nice ending 😂

For the corrosion, why not spray some oil in there to slow things down?

the question is, how much time it takes to corrode through the steel?

Logan is a wolverine, those are IS (international standard brake mounts), the extra tube from my experience is not needed for the brake.

Blocked off the exits and filled all my steel race frames with rustolium, then drained. That was 40 years ago, and still no rust. A little precaution will last your lifetime.

I've been thinking of getting a steel gravel/light touring bike similar to (say) Kona Sutra SE Bombtrack, Trek 520 Disk etc. As I hope to return to living in Vietnam on Mekong Delta, rust is a significant concern. A few people have recommended stripping a new bike down to the frame them carefully and thoroughly spraying the insides with Boeshield T9 then reassembling. Note, temps wet season 22-30C, humidity 90-100%. Dry season, temps 27-35, humidity 65-80%.

@georgeserhard4326

Жыл бұрын

I live in Vung Tau and have an ali frame. Before the wet season it gets striped and I spray the internals with WD40, like wise after. I don't have much experience with steel.

@rollinrat4850

Жыл бұрын

Linseed oil works great and it's really cheap. If you need to have the frame repaired or welded, warn the frame builder!! Believe me!

@smallbutheavy9664

Жыл бұрын

There is internal sealing made out of sheep- fat, several compositions. They are used for example to protect steel seawater tanks inside. They are available as a spray with a long thin and flexible tube, you get everywhere inside the bike frame.

@rollinrat4850

Жыл бұрын

@@smallbutheavy9664 Haha, that's wild. Does your bike start to smell like mutton or haggis? A decent frame would be worth applying frame saver. Lots of higher quality metal frame manufacturers apply chemical treatments inside frames now.

@robm8809

Жыл бұрын

@@georgeserhard4326 WD40 displaces water, but beyond that has no anticorrosion properties, and can even exacerbate corrosion by washing off oils and grease. It's fine to wash water out of a frame with WD40 but you should use a product with genuine anticorrosion properties after, once the WD40 has dried off. I use ACF50 on exterior parts and automotive "Cavity Wax" inside the frame. Bike specific products like Frame Saver are also good.

I don’t know hambini, I think you are grasping to ream this one. Frame looks built really well. You are right about the salt. In Wisconsin they salt the roads in winter, cars rust out bad. Out west some areas do not salt and they have just as much snow and ice as here, their cars done rust nearly as bad. I don’t think the level of corrosion in that frame is concerning. There will not be any basalt water exposure. Is there a history of steel bikes failing from corrosion? Also, can 2 steels be dissimilar metals?

It takes a LOT of rust to structurally compromise a frame. Some Boeshield T-9 on the interior deals with the problem.

I had btr ranger I use put acf 50 down the seat tube and on down tube,and acf 50 grease on bottom bracket

I'm old and used to race on steel frames until the 1990s. I never looked inside, apart from the bottom bracket, when I built a frame into a bike. So, maybe they had those problems ? Those steel frames were all Renolds double butted tubes.

It is called IS2000 Brakemount

@gg4760-k5n

Жыл бұрын

Yup ! I guess it is not roadies' tech so I will give a 5y.o a pass for this time but I was not impressed with that.

Galvanic corrosion can occur between any dissimilar materials, even between different steels or even welding material/spatter

IS mount if on the side. Post mount if directly on the frame or fork

On thw welds, you've not mentioned if they tig or mig,, on the backside of the welds could be from the penetration, mig with flux wire and gas or tig with bronze silicon , is what you might be seeing the welding material, and the steel weled too hot, you can get rust form quicker on weld beads . mill scale is oily in nature and heat burns it off when welded

Nice to see a mtb

I have a steel frame road bike from 1952. Reynolds 531 tubes, a Viking Servern Valley. still ride it, no idea if it’s rusty inside.

0:06 mopping up the blood from my ear drums

actually looking for a cotic soul 26

@hambini. Ever consider using a Wacom board for your ppt?

@MrLuigi-oi7gm

Жыл бұрын

I may be wrong, but I believe he is using Wacom tablet gifted to him by a viewer.

Coincidently, I just acquired a mid-2000's Soul. It does have some paint chips and surface rust on it, but I've patched it up. I'll report back if the frame snaps on me.

Enduro has a bsa30 BB called Maxhit. Its steel, and it doesn't have a separate cup and bearing, it seems like the outer race is the cup and the threaded part all in one. Pretty slick design.

@uk53781

Жыл бұрын

Doesn't look to me like that fixes the problem with BSA BBs with 30mm cranks. The thread wall still has to be very fine. The Maxhit thing will help with press fit shells as it allows for bigger bearings in a limited space (but this begs the question, is that not just like BB30 and similar? Because that went so wll last time). But as you can see from the Hambini BSA BB in this video, nothing has stopped him using a large bearing as the BB is far bigger than the shell. I like to hear what Hambini thinks of Maxhit.

@rattila13

Жыл бұрын

@uk53781 The problem with BSA30 is that most of the commercially available bbs use aluminum cups, and the wall thickness is super thin because of space constraints, which makes them weak. The Maxhit bb fixes this by using steel cups, which also happen to be the outer races of the bearings.

@uk53781

Жыл бұрын

I will just repeat this "Doesn't look to me like that fixes the problem with BSA BBs with 30mm cranks. The thread wall still has to be very fine. " If you could explain why this is no longer the case with Maxhit, that woiuld be greatthanks.

@rattila13

Жыл бұрын

@@uk53781 Simple, it's steel, not aluminum. If that's not good enough for you, then Habini's bb shouldn't work either.

The question is: do you really need that massive diameter shaft to have better stiffness when it is coupled with a frame that is likely much more flexy ? It is a MTB with large and ¨spongy" tyres so when you stroke on the pedals they will also deflect and I guess there will be a front suspension too.

@Bonky-wonky

Жыл бұрын

Usually it’s a case of buying a new frame with a bsa bb and not wanting to throw the bb30 cranks in the bin that came off the old bike.

@PaoloLuraschi

Жыл бұрын

​@@Bonky-wonky I understand but that bb30 cranks and that steel frame must be very expensive, just the Hambini titanium BB is £421.00 ! I wonder why in such a price range they cannot afford to galvanize the steel frame (in & out) for better corrosion resistance, it is a common practice for steel gates.

Get a litre of oil, and pour it into the frame, slosh it around and pour out the rest.. helps with rust buildup

@Fetherko

Жыл бұрын

I used linseed oil on a shop owner's recommendation. A ok. Sold it in 17 years . Should do it to my other steel bikes.

@blankroomsoup666

Жыл бұрын

I used dynax s50. I’ll leave it upside down every now and again after thorough washing to let the water out, so far so good!

Nice looking frame and a pleasure to see Steel still has a place on the world market stage!!!! How much is the RRP for a frame like this?

@Hambini

Жыл бұрын

No idea

@esm7708

Жыл бұрын

@@Hambini Solaris is £850 frame only. The full build is better value. Or a Chitanium frame for the same price.

@voicheck1

Жыл бұрын

Go for the BfeMax, £619 for the frame

@KOL630

Жыл бұрын

@@esm7708 seems like good value when you consider frames considering thrice are riddled with manufacturing defects. This review was fairly favourable with the exception of the corrosion. Steel does rust tho. If it’s sitting in a damp garage no amount of coating is going to stop that. Bet this frame would still outlast the rider in most cases though! That’s more than can be said for all the carbon frames about these days…

@esm7708

Жыл бұрын

@@KOL630 well it can be repaired at least. Heavy though.

Not a bad looking frame. Reinforced in area's. Rust is gonna happen on a steel bike. I always thought that they should coat the internals somehow by submerging it in some sort of liquid that coasts and protects the inners. I am not a weight weenie so that little extra weight from the internal coating is not a big deal to me. Not ridden on steel since the 70's. I have ridden aluminum mostly, barring one of the early carbon tube bonded specialized allez from the early 90's. I have a full carbon kuota now and riding a carbon to me at first was like riding on a cloud, very shock abosrbing. I rode an alu vitus and that was the most flexible bike frame i have ever been on. I got rid of that really quick. The ending to this clip intentional? "other than............."

The internal corrosion looks bad... How ça. You fix this?

@janeblogs324

Жыл бұрын

Phosphoric acid

Other than.... What? Don't leave us hangin man!

I've got a 16 year old steel tourer... I really must look inside it! (I live by the sea). I did give it a good spray internally of ACF50 shortly after purchase so fingers crossed. Love the look of the hambini BB - what's the weight saving with the Ti model? I'd like one for my steel road bike one day.

@Hambini

Жыл бұрын

There is no real weight saving, it's titanium for the strength

@neil_down_south

Жыл бұрын

@@Hambini aah ok, good to know.

@chris1275cc

Жыл бұрын

Its probably fine, seriously there are beat up poorly maintained 50 year old steel bikes being used day in day out as commuters, or even worse spending 300+ days a year in a damp shed only to see the daylight when the outside temperature gets above 20 degrees C in the shade. The risk of your frame rusting away from the inside to the point of failure does happen but it is pretty overstated.

@simonm1447

Жыл бұрын

I have 2 old steel bikes (one from 93 and one from 89). Non of them has severe corrosion issues

The ending 😂

The Surly Straggler has a strut to support the the rear brake.

@chris1275cc

Жыл бұрын

Most I.S. and P.M. disc bikes do, even some of the early road disc frames (although on road they like to mount between the chain and seat stays if the geo' allows it).

When I descale coffee machine, I pour a shot of solution also into bike frame. ☕

In Taichung, if that frame is not made there it will be nearby, average relative humidity is 74.5% So, there you go.

I have had a steel frame 531 frame for over 30 years notice a bit of rust inside the bottom bracket a spray of wd40 no more rust since that was 28 years ago bike and frame going strong ok

Is the lack of penetration on the welds surprising? From the inside all we see is a little spatter.

If you’ve seen a mountain biker ride, you’ll know that a small amount of corrosion inside a frame is the least of their concerns. Full disclosure, I do own a Cotic and tend to ride it into trees at high speeds often 😂

Don’t you ever ask your customers: why? Why do you want this? 😂