I really appreciate hearing from a specialist. I have working on cars for years but it takes a specialist to know the fine details that make the difference between a good and a bad engine job. Thank you.

RPi still the best after all these years. Will use them again for my next project.

This is a great video which strongly counters how some suppliers I interviewed "fix" a block by welding it if cracked or do a "visual inspection" only. This is exactly why I am waiting 3 months for my RPi 4.6! Good explanation Ian!

excellent explanation. Thanks

Well done video. I recently had a rebuilt done on my P38 and the mechanic that did the work said that he used top hat liners on the rebuild. I had no idea why this was the best solution but I completely understand now. Thank you.

great vid

This was a very interesting and informative video for sure. :

Very good info

I have a question. Er, ja. just one. How on earth did you know that your information was going to be so helpful ?

In addition to overheating, failing to maintain the cooling system leads to corrosion. That causes a loss of material where the engine needs it, increasing the risk of developing a crack. I never realized that top hat cylinder liners would not stop the loss of coolant. I always thought that the interference fit would make coolant leaks impossible. Thanks for showing me that it isn't true. I have heard that welding a cracked engine block is possible, but the odds of a long lasting repair are very low.

👍👍👍

I've read somewhere that some blocks had the bolt holes between 4&6 drilled too close to the jacket resulting in stress fractures... have you seen this? Could this just be due to the jacket being cast offset? Great video!

Thank you for a very practical and interesting video well explained. My question is is it possible to melt it down and recast it in a back yard or small business setting and what would it take to do.😊

What about o-rings in the liner, like how Darton and LA Sleeves does it? It's supposed to effectively convert it to a wet liner, preventing water from reaching the crankcase.

@RPIEngineering

7 жыл бұрын

Its a good idea and one some have tried but we have seen them fail. The only 100% solution is to start with a block that is not cracked.

Recently indeed cleaned the radiator package in my P38 from debris buildup - a long overdue job: First took the grille off , then simply dry vacuumed , then hosed it off to make it wet from the rear (there is just enough space between radiators ) and vacuumed wet while hosing off. Then used a high pressure cleaner at some distance (not to much pressure) and again vacuumed wet. Then with some plastic toothpicks picked the radiator where needed , again blasted gently with pressure cleaner and started the engine while still wet to suck out last bits. Inspected with a torch - repeated some sections . Result the exhaust fumes are definitely cooler. Not that 'choking' hot anymore.

What was the best year for casing a 4.6

Wow you guys really know your RV8 engines!!! This makes sad viewing though, as I thought I just had a blown head gasket on my 4.0 Chimaera. It initially starts and runs fine, but once warmed I get clouds of white smoke or maybe steam out the exhaust. Once home, I fired it up with both Lamder sensors removed and can see a small amount of the smoke or steam coming out the OS banks hole. I'm now thinking the coolant pressure needs to build, to force it through the now expanded casting to liner fitment? I can also see this head has been removed in the past by someone, so this kinds stacks up too. Or the head isn't flat and wasn't machined. I'm tempted to give you guys a call, before I start looking for another engine or block. It's gonna be expensive though by the sound of it. Presumably the smaller 4.0 is less prone to this?

@EugVR6

2 жыл бұрын

LS swap or BMW 650i V8 swap?

So after apparently laboring for over 20 years under the misconception that my 4.6 block might some day be salvageable, it looks like I have a new coffee table in my future.

I have a 3.5 carb rover v8. I need to use the original block, matching numbers to chassis. Can I liner it to run as a 3.9?

@RPIEngineering

4 жыл бұрын

Hi, I can see you have also sent the same message through Facebook to us. I will reply in detail on there for you. Kind regards, Ian

What's wrong with tig welding the crack the crack or running a weld around the bore where the liner fits in then line boring the block out to fit the liner? Or putting a copper ring under the top hat liner so it expands and stays tight against the gasket and the head. And other forums have said run the tdi 5 thermostat instead of the petrol one? This will make it run cooler! Have you heard of this being done?

@wjsj69

9 ай бұрын

Welding a crack will only last so long; the weld will be machined over and the wall thickness will be as bad as new when it was improperly cast. There is NO solution to a bad block that will be reliable.

Can you do a video on Land Rover sunroof water issues ! How the water from the sunroof gets under the carpet and Rusts out the floor .

@RPIEngineering

4 жыл бұрын

Not really our style of video as we are engine specialists primarily

@roverandmorerestore7266

3 жыл бұрын

It might not be your sunroof. Check your heater core under the passenger footwell

Problem with top hat liners , due to micro vibration they will sink down and blow the head gasket

@RPIEngineering

3 жыл бұрын

Not when the block is mahcined and the liners are installed correctly. We have seen blocks with liners dropped (and even top hat liners) from other machinists (there is a D90 with top hat liners that have dropped in our videos somewhere) however to date I am not aware of any of our top hat linered blocks that have suffered from this and we do get to see them back after thousands of hours of drive cycles under extreme heat conditions on dyno's as well.

I have an 04 discovery with a 4.0 and I wanted to fit a low boost twin turbo system to the vehicle for a bit more poke but am at complete cross roads on if the motor is worth it. Id love to keep the rover but dont want to spend thousands on doing the turbo kit and have nothing but issues. Ive had the car for years, when i first got it i did head gaskets but due to combustion leak not coolant, been perfect since. Other option is drop in an LS V8 as here in australia they are everywhere and cheap. I know you guys are now doing the turbo build.. what are you expecting?

@RPIEngineering

4 жыл бұрын

Hi, Firstly if you not looking at spending thousands then I would say stay clear of a turbo conversion as to do it properly its is not cheap. The most straight forward way to access usable power is to swap the engine for a 4.6. Doing this properly with a pressure tested (no liners installed) block, new camshaft kit and reconditioned cylinder heads will also give the car a new leas of life as well as huge install bottom end grunt upgrade. However if that too is over budget then a remap and a cam swap on the 4.0 litre engine is the best way to go along with a refresh of other required parts for longevity Best to email us on info@v8engines.com for a quote on the options you are interested in. Kind regards, Ian

@psiwog

4 жыл бұрын

@@RPIEngineering Hi Ian, Money is not the issue here, i work for a performamce based business as a mechanic here in australia. We do all types of dyno tuning and import turbo work, my question was more to do with the reliability of the rover 4.0 and if its worth adding boost or are there just too many variables. Eg. Will boost just increase bore heat and bring on cracking issues, slipped liners etc.

@RPIEngineering

4 жыл бұрын

@@psiwog We have not done forced induction setups before. We have replaced engines with them on etc however we have never built a forced induction kit. Long terms effects.... there are lots of people out there running around 6 psi of boost on Rover V8's and having no longer term issues however as you will be well aware reliability is also hugely down to quality of parts fitted and the tuning of the engine. For sure sourcing a LS motor where you are will be cheap and if you have the skills to make it all fit and work in your D2 and its an engine you are familiar with then it could be a viable option for you however as you know its lots of work doing an engine swap (gearbox, wiring, cooling etc etc) hence why the easy straight forward options to get instant bottom end grunt if you have a 4.0 litre engine is to fit a 4.6. It works, everything bolts straight to it and we have done it hundreds of times.

@psiwog

4 жыл бұрын

@@RPIEngineering thanks for the detailed answer. Really appreciate the time taken to respond

are old 4.6 casting prone to cracks? , and are there any blocks to keep away from. thanks very much

@RPIEngineering

5 жыл бұрын

Hopefully the video answered most of your questions. Maybe watch it through again as it explains why the cracks happen. Both 4.0 litre and 4.6 blocks are cast the same so have the same tolerance issues. For further clarification please feel free to call us on 01603 891209

@geoffhoyle479

5 жыл бұрын

RPIEngineering thank you, I understood the reason, poor castings, I’m about to buy a Range Rover 4.6 to act as a donna for a project, fingers crossed bit of pot luck then. :-)

@RPIEngineering

5 жыл бұрын

@@geoffhoyle479 Ideally get one with MOT and drive it round for a few weeks and keep an eye on the water level. If its loosing some ensure you have no leaks etc. Its not fool proof but will help you determine if the block might be cracked at a home level prior to investing money into and engine for a project car

@geoffhoyle479

5 жыл бұрын

RPIEngineering thanks very much

@ivanarrache5154

3 жыл бұрын

@@geoffhoyle479 the best solution for the "poor" casting problem is to buy a Buick 350 block. You can find them in Jegs or other online sites. Put there aluminum heads from a '64 300 or from TA Performance. There's a lot of aftermarket parts for them, like Holley Stealth Ram multiport fuel injection. The Rover engine is basically a Buick Small Block, so put there a Buick 5.7 and discover why Marvel's superhero is not called "Aluminum Man".

What type of Antifreeze , do you recommend using in a Rover V8 , I have been using Halfords OAT in my 3. 5 p 6 engine ,just wondering what your thoughts are use it the OAT type Antifreeze . Thanks .

@RPIEngineering

4 жыл бұрын

We use blue in all engines pre 1999 THor versions and red in the Thor versions. There is no difference in the type of aluminium used but Land Rover seemed to switch then so to be correct for the car that is what we do so that there is no confusion of cross contamination. As long as you the correct mix you will be fine however we are not fans of long life things as it is always a good idea to flush systems out periodically

@chrisclegg3711

4 жыл бұрын

RPIEngineering so as long as I keep changing The Oat antifreeze on my non injection p6 on a regular basis ,not sure what year my engine is ,all should be fine . Thanks .

@RPIEngineering

4 жыл бұрын

@@chrisclegg3711 Yes no need for concern. The Rover casting material was actually really good when you compare it to the quality of material used on the Triumph 3.0 V8 which goes porous over time.

@chrisclegg3711

4 жыл бұрын

RPIEngineering Thank you ,that puts my mind at ease , I do have another concern if you could help me please , my rover p6 3.500 fitted in my Ford pop ,hasn’t been started for four years as the petrol tank was removed for body restoration,so has been stored in a dry the workshop ,I believe the engine is still free to turn ,do you have any advise when I finally come to start it again . Your advise would be gratefully appreciated . Thanks .

@RPIEngineering

4 жыл бұрын

@@chrisclegg3711 Best thing to do if its been stood for ages is to remove the spark plugs and to spray some WD40 down the bores and leave over night, then spray some more in there and gently turn the engine over feeling for any resistance etc. Make sure that the engine rotates smoothly through the full 720 degrees of combustion cylce.

I have read (in Des Hammil's book if memory serves) that the factory tested the castings and that the better quality blocks went into 4.6 engines. Since you rebuild a lot of these engines, can you confirm this? Is there a practical way of checking the thickness of the aluminum walls once the factory liners are removed? Also, the 03-04 Discovery II engines seem to have oil pressure and bottom end problems that others don't. I have heard that there were quality issues where the oil pump gears were not lining up properly with the crank axis, causing premature oil pump failure. I didn't get this from a reliable source, not sure if I can trust this. In your experience, what are the problems (if any) with late production (03-04) 4.6 blocks and are they worth rebuilding? I have a couple laying around that have no history of liner problems. Not sure if I should try to rebuild them. I read that the front cover on crossbolted engines was "revised" at some point. I know that the factory went from buick-style oil pump to gerotor pump driven bycrank nose on crossbolted engines. What was the front cover revision all about? Do I need a revised front cover, or can I just replace the oil pump gears and reuse the one from an 03-04 Discovery II? The Bosch Range Rover 4.6 is the same exact engine, which did not have oil pressure and bottom end issues. I am wondering what they did differently on the last two years of the Disco II.

@RPIEngineering

3 жыл бұрын

Hi, Yes it is true that Land Rover did test wall thickness and colour code the blocks for a period of time however from what we have seen over the years they must have also got to a stage of just use any colour block for any engine capacity towards the very end. We are aware of an issue that Land Rover had with the distributor alignment on some of the intermediate timing covers however not with any of the later Gems or Thor style covers. We have seen the oil pump gears fail on them but across both version of Gems and Thor covers.

@maxphipps2

3 жыл бұрын

@@RPIEngineering I worked on the Land Rover V8 machine shop upgrade with Ingersoll during the 90's which replaced all machining stages prior to the liner fit. During the commission period Land Rover began using a hand held ultrasound device to test wall thickness of all blocks before they entered the liner oven. Also I vaguely recall a panic period where blocks were being tested before enter the first stage of machining.

@RPIEngineering

3 жыл бұрын

@@maxphipps2 Yes this was when they then colour coded them for the thickness and for a while they used certain ones for 4.0 and others for 4.6 as far as we are away. However towards the end of the run before coscast took over we then started to see 4.0 and 4.6 with the same colours etc again.

Can you guys who are obviously "in the know" tell me if top hat liners that are any amount below the deck of the block are acceptable. I have had what looks like oil leaking from my heads after Top Hats fitted, upon pulling the heads the some top hats appear to be up to 1.5 thou below, i think they may have not been fully down when the deck was skimmed and have now moved?

@RPIEngineering

2 жыл бұрын

Liners should be installed unit home. Then the block is decked so that the entire face is on a level plane. If the liners are lower than the face of the block the head gasket sealing ring will be compromised.

In your experience how often is a slipped liner accompanied by a cracked block?

How much to do a now liners kit plz

@RPIEngineering

5 жыл бұрын

Hi, Please email us with your engine details etc at info@v8engines.com or call us on 01603 891209

hi,does the rover engine have a fault with slipped liners that can,t be avoided ie will all rover engines have this problem at some point in there life?thanks,g oakley

@RPIEngineering

3 жыл бұрын

Slipped liners are not as common as cracked blocks. The two issues are different problems, do not mix them up.

@grahamoakley4337

3 жыл бұрын

thank you very much for your reply,i have a complete 4.6 l rover engine and a lt77 gearbox to go into my cobra replica,but i am worried about the problem of the slipped liners,i read on a forum that the rover v8 has a design flaw regarding this,do you think its a reliable engine if its treated with kindnessi,m pretty green on this subject so please excuse my ignorance,g oakley.

@grahamoakley4337

3 жыл бұрын

hello to everyone at rpi ,enjoy your youtube videos,hope all your familys stay safe regarding covid,are you still busy?graham oakley.

@RPIEngineering

3 жыл бұрын

@@grahamoakley4337 Thankfully we are very busy. Looked after well these engines can keep going 200K miles and more (we have customers on original engines in P38 Range Rovers with this mileage on them) The biggest issue is lack of preventative maintenance

well I guess I'll end up doing ls swap.

#2 cylinder and #4 cylinder are piss poor castings. I have a question that nobody has been able to answer to date. Since Range Rover engines are basically GM 215 cu. in. Aluminum Buick engines, is the bell housing still the GM bolt pattern?

@RPIEngineering

4 жыл бұрын

Hi, I have never actually seen a Buick 215 so again would not know if the bell housing bolt patterns are the same as the Roper V8 engine however I just did a quick google search and found a forum where someone was referencing 215 bolt patterns as being the same for the Rover V8 engine.

@arttafil6792

4 жыл бұрын

RPIEngineering, that’s what I thought might be. See back in 62 or 63 about the same time as when GM sold the aluminum V8 design and castings to British Leyland, they had instituted complete engine and transmission interchangeability throughout all GM divisions. That meant universal bolt patterns. Even the frames were drilled with multiple frame mounts so any GM engine would fit in any GM car. The 215 is the same as the 3.5 liter Rover engine that you’re used to using.

Why cant you just weld up the crack, bore it out and put a new sleeve in or even the old sleeve if you centre the borer well. OK so the cooling channel is a little compromised and you may even close it up at that point but its aluminium. The heat will transfer. As long as its for domestic use and not racing it should work. Can someone either explain why not or maybe try what I am suggesting to prove me wrong thank you. Such a waste to throw all these block out because of a little hole.

@aaronkryder6186

5 жыл бұрын

I think you can weld up and resleeve. I noticed the 4.0 are all cracking but maybe not 4.6.

Poor casting, poor machining. Why? Is this a British malaise, or was it just old, worn Leyland machine tools and lack of investment? Are there Japanese or German engines from the same era with known block / head quality issues?

@aaronkryder6186

5 жыл бұрын

Prolly was overheated repeatedly. Big V8 with an old radiator.

@bobuilt10

4 жыл бұрын

Land Rover were made aware of a tolerance stack issue that could potentially leave them with negative metal between the bore and water jacket at the start of project Pegasus (p38a). The water jacket was located in a side core which in turn was located in the die side which in turn again sat on the base, in which the crank and barrel cores located. The die ends which formed the front and rear of the block were free moving and used to nudge the top core which formed the valley. Land Rovers engineers knew the issues but had no money to properly fix the task of taking a 3.5lt block out to 4.6lt. As a compromise the desision was made to probe the position of the two water jackets, split the difference between the two of them and then split that with the crank position. Finally each block would be rolled to achieve the "best" fit to the rest of the features. A down side of rolling the block is it pushed the valley core out of position. I believe number 9 valley core (each had the number cast in to the valley) was the first to be made specifically for Pegasus and was beefed up accordingly around the tappets to allow for movement when balancing. When you strip an engine you may see numbers written in the valley, this was the metal thickness as measured in the foundry and allowed Land Rover to be selective as to which blocks were used for 4.6. Over heating was the equivalent of pulling the pin out if the grenade.