what a production / music, etc.

This is the repair video that was missing in my life! keep em coming!

Excellent production on this. Real joy to watch.

@whiteroosterproductions5986

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you! Was a lot of fun to film too. Glad you enjoyed it.

Holy smokes, you put a lot of time in this video......but very enjoyable to watch.

Awesome production value, really superb and the drone footage is gorgeous! More fun to watch unfortunately than it is actually helpful in showing how to make the repair. It needed more detail at normal speed. The music bed gets tiring and distracting. Although many other videos have very basic editing or even in camera cuts, they offer more useful and detailed information including close ups showing the actual repair.

Very good man

Great video mate

The best cinema and sound ever for a truck repair vid ;)

@SpeedySailor

3 жыл бұрын

Had to turn the sound off because of the loud Noise. Why would any instructional video have voice comments drowned out by loud 'music' ?

@whiteroosterproductions5986

3 жыл бұрын

@@SpeedySailor Not understanding the issue. The music (or loud noise whatever you want to call it) stops while I talk. I also captioned out any notes/comments during the time-lapse.

@SpeedySailor

3 жыл бұрын

@@whiteroosterproductions5986 Thank you for the written notes. With my hearing loss, I do not hear sounds the same as others and your choice of music is like fingers on the chalk board for me. Distracts my attention too much.

Nice video,.So you don't need to press the bearing all the way in, just enough to thread the cv shaft,, impact the rest of the way,.?

@whiteroosterproductions5986

4 ай бұрын

I would not recommend that. You need to press the bearing in from the outer race, not the inner.

Thank you very much from Hungary! What is that tool when you pushing back the new HUB into the bearing?

Must be nice to have a 1st gen Ridgeline with very little Rust. The manuals state that final torque of lower 'B' arm bolts (strut - Knuckle), Trailing arm, upper & lower 'A' arm, bolts should be Torqued with wheel compressing the coil spring at normal load height. [i.e. put the jack under the knuckle and raise it up to load height]. If welded nuts come loose when removing the two fwd bolts on the Shock/Strut, the plastic inner wheel well liner can be removed and reveal the top of the Strut. The 3rd rear bolt nut is behind an internal baffle.

@whiteroosterproductions5986

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feedback. Putting the jack under the knuckle simulates the truck being on the ground. I just put the truck on the ground.... Either way works. The idea is to torque the bolts with the bushing oriented where it'll rest the most often so it will torque the bushing as little as possible under normal operation.

@whiteroosterproductions5986

3 жыл бұрын

Also, thank you for the suggestion on the strut tops. I was lucky and didn't break any of those welded nuts.

@SpeedySailor

3 жыл бұрын

@@whiteroosterproductions5986 I should explain, I am in the middle of replacing the both side: shocks, springs {a little bit rusted, new ones were cheap}, halfshafts [bad boots], anti-sway bar links (had to cut them off), one hub, LH trailing Arm (still in work, broke outer welded nut), Backing Plates (Rusted off), RH ABS sensor cable, rust inside area of plastic liner, etc..... Working in driveway, its getting cold with my age, bad knees, health slowing me down. My Honda came from somewhere in NY, Very Rusted on left side under rear door, {maybe it was used to put boats in water or in the Storm surge?} and by the amount of Rust which was covered by "Dealer" paint job, I have my quick job turned into a mess. I'll be reinstalling everything soon as long as the next snow storm isn't too heavy. Just wanted to see if anyone else had easier time doing Rear stuff. Next spring will be the front and leaking power steering hose. Makes me want to go back to Navy Helicopters but I find climbing difficult these days.

@whiteroosterproductions5986

3 жыл бұрын

@@SpeedySailor Wow!! What a nightmare. I totally feel your struggle! We are the original owners of our Ridgeline and if it wasn't paid off, I'd be shopping for another one from Florida or Oregon!!! Hahah! It's seen every winter but to be fair, our winters are no where near as extreme as NY! Our truck is showing rust on the passenger rear 1/4 and we never had the paint redone under the recall so the hood paint is flaking off.... I should have replaced the backing plates when I did all of this work. They were rusted and I'm sure will have holes in them this time next year. I have yet more work to do to this truck too. Some stuff has been filmed already (starter and PCV valve) and I just need to edit the video and now it's time to do the timing belt. Of course, the truck needs much more than that because of it's age. Motor mounts, torque converter, and front main seal is leaking.... Ah the joys of old vehicles.

@SpeedySailor

3 жыл бұрын

@@whiteroosterproductions5986 Check your Power steering pressure hose, they are prone to leaking just aft of the metal fitting. Guessing engine movement flexs it there the most. www.ridgelineownersclub.com/search/1047756/?q=Power+steering+pressure+hose&o=relevance www.ridgelineownersclub.com/ I was going to do mine last spring but corrosion made the hose bracket bolts into aluminum a put off until later job, just keep refilling for now. BTW, That's when I found one CV boot cut and if you do one, then you have to do both. I suspect that the tube nut into the steering valve is corroded too, so I'll be prepared to R & I Rack when I do the front shocks / half shafts / bearings. Had to remove the front bumper just to replace the Headlight housings too. The nut bolts were rusted too. Here is a video of Honda tech R & I the bumper on a 2nd gen Ridgeline. (He added a trim feature) kzread.info/dash/bejne/nqOrks1wcpCtqKw.html

A little less music a lot more detail on tools used

@anthonyanderson8521

2 жыл бұрын

Way too much music, takes away from the video

Why do you gonna change de rear system brake to band system, I show in the video no understand

@SpeedySailor

3 жыл бұрын

The Honda Ridgelines use a Brake Rotor with the Parking brake using the Drum/Shoe system you were seeing. The Drum is inner part of the Rotor. btw, in the Honda service manual, you would remove the parking brake cable from the Backing Plate by sliding a 12mm box end wrench over the little prongs. Then tap the fitting out with a small drift punch. He did not show that. drive.google.com/file/d/107npkgS_4FgFmliwtNHmEYVR0IkWX7lo/view?usp=sharing

@whiteroosterproductions5986

3 жыл бұрын

I kept the front brake shoe on, so that method wouldn't work. Instead I used a small pry tool to walk the clip off (without bending or deforming it) which is shown in the video at 3:44. Saved a lot of time.

@SpeedySailor

3 жыл бұрын

@@whiteroosterproductions5986 Even with the shoe on, a box end (Craftsman 12mm combination) can be tapped in place. I just did it (shoe off), takes less than a minute.

@whiteroosterproductions5986

3 жыл бұрын

@@SpeedySailor Oh I see the google link doc you just posted. I don't have that style of box end but it yeah it looks like that method is even easier! Thanks again for the suggestion.

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