I have never seen epoxy poures where you dont have to do back to check for bubbles or anything! Just pouring inside a closed container and not knowing if its ok until its cured gaved me anxiety 🤣 you're amazing!

Quality !!! Nicely done Eric, superb work as always.

Love this! I never was able to see the details of this before

This was great, super clear and simply explaned!

Eric Thank you for sharing this process.

Thank you for sharing your expertise! Your system is absolutely brilliant!

Excellent video Eric, I like how you show and explain the technical aspects in this video.

Eric you are the man I’ve never seen a copy get done like that. Where are you poured in the center of the mold that’s actually really cool.

Thanks for the detailed design!

Your clearly a Master Mold Maker...👍👍

Awesome tutorial. Thank you 🙏

Thanks for this video. I made a mold box using this method and it turned out great! no more leaking resin!

Amazing craftsmanship, learned a lot from this, thanks man.

Great video. Thank you for all your hard work

Loved this video! This is exactly I was looking for. Thanks !!

Very impressive, Nice work! first time I have seen this locking mold concept, pretty interesting for sure!

I used some PVA glue to make a seal on my mould yesterday and I was wondering if it was a good idea or not. Glad to hear your approval on that method. Your videos are always insightful.

Thank you so much! Such a clear and expert instructional video. You have saved me many hours of trial and error.

Excellent video as always.

Beautiful !!! Thank you!!

Great tips, and I like the calm informative nature of you narration without a lot of unneeded jibber jabber!

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

Trying to do that, thanks

Tks for Share Eric !

Great video. The pours look spot on. Great work. Mahalo for sharing! : )

Great job am impressed 👍

This is bloody stuff you made man excellent.

Well, you made that look easy. Its shows what, planning and time spent making custom mold boxes etc pays off in the end product. You sounded like you had time constraints and yet the order was filled. Well done, Eric.

@ddegn

2 жыл бұрын

"you made that look easy" I was thinking the same thing. I've made silicone molds myself. My molds never turned out nearly as well as Eric's molds. Thanks for another great video Eric Strebel!

Thank you thank you. Now I know what I need to do.

Another great video, thanks for taking the time Eric! I will be using this process to make custom drone avionics enclosures using a 3D printed master

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

Good luck, tag me on social media, I'd love to see the parts

You're awesome man!

that's great!👏, thank you for sharing with us.

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

Your welcome

Really helpful stuff, nice vid. I don't get how the sprue was in the floor yet the resin filled the walls?

Great video again!

Excellent my friend!!

Thanks

You are doing a great jobs 👍👍👍👍👍

@EricStrebel

10 ай бұрын

Thanks

Thank You for Sharing.

Brilliant mate..

This is perfect. I'd like to resin cast some molded electronic shell parts so that I can have a semi-transparent casing on my phone. I love the guts, but black is so boring!

great video thx again

❤good job!

Thanks for the demo, I'm doing some wierd moulding, im trying dried oil syrup in salt! hahaha

More of these please

bel lavoro. complimenti

Awesome video! I'm sure you've been asked this before. Any idea if lighter fluid will work as a substitute for naptha?

Very interesting! Thanks for a great explanatory video

@EricStrebel

Жыл бұрын

You're most welcome

@bjornml.08

Жыл бұрын

@@EricStrebel I will check your other videos! Then I' have some questions etc. for you! :) It's a bit late here now.

Very nice. 👍

I realy enjoy this new format. Very clear, and hopefully you reduced a bit of time in the production/editing Your videos have been amazing since day 1 (for me 3000 subs.) Thanks

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

Thankyou for your longtime support, I really appreciate your feedback and dedication to the chanel and content

Hi Eric, with the large volume in the second pore, would it be possible to block that out to save on silicone? The silicone you use can't be found in the UK -- is there something by Smooth-on that's an equivalent that you know of? Thanks!

Cover looks great! Did you support the mold the length of the cover? Silicone looks like it could sag along the length.

Great, thanks Eric :')

How do you prevent the resin from flowing back into the pouring hole and leaving a thickening behind? The law of communicating vessels seems to apply here. I don't see any trace of the pouring hole, so how do you do that? Nice job, btw.

very nice

Very informative, but how did the silicone not tear off in the threaded holes? Thanks:)

Great!

Do you not have problems with shrinkage or deformation due to the elasticity of the silicone mold, causing tolerance issues?

Came for the title and video, stayed for the Swiss Flag on your hat… i dont regret both… greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭 (Zofingen)

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

Hopp Schwitz 🇨🇭

@Alex_Eicher

2 жыл бұрын

Danke glichfalls 🤣

How do you prevent silicone in central part of top mold from bowing down and causing wall of the product to be thinner in that area?

I'm a Vietnam Combat Marine and I purchased 4 EGA to mount on my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 pickup. They are all rigid and I need to make a mold of them that I can put against the side of the truck to cast them with the proper curves to paste to the truck. I plan to paint the truck a gloss black including the EGA. I would welcome any suggestions you might have to help me. Thanks.

I have a synthetic rifle stock, the kind that has webbing in the fore end instead of solid plastic. I'd like to fill those voids to stiffen my stock. Any suggestions on a simple plastic mix that is stiff, but will also stick well?

Great vodeo

Interesting process but the problem I have with the idea is when people take commercial items and do recasts and then sell them. Conceptually it is the same as making copies of copyrighted material and selling them for profit. A big* problem in the garage or small batch area of scale or figure modeling *well maybe not big but it is big to the kit producers And it is nice that you supply links to product suppliers

Nice 👍

Hi, I'm looking for a grey liquid dye for using with my resin, any suggestion on a brand I could use?

i love the self locking meganism could the be used also wen you make a mould for a plastic model car body because as in your piece you can clue it to bottom and it is seald from sillicon pooring in into the insude of the mould how too solve this problem with a body model car that is not the same hight ?

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

It could you be used for any kind of mold

All that work, materials and time for just 10 pieces off :-O #brilliant

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

Yup

What if you don't have a laser cutter? I like your silicone box. Is there another way to wrap the lid for a smaller box?

@EricStrebel

4 ай бұрын

If you don't have a laser cutter then you can 3D print a splitter board or do it by hand

When you mix why don't you use a paddle on a small drill, works for me 100 per cent. Good vlog. 👍🇫🇷

WOW!

Bob Ross of silicone casting

Rock on brother

Love the video, very helpful! How do you not end up with a funnel full of cured resin stuck to the part?

@EricStrebel

10 ай бұрын

You do, you have to break it or twist it off.

the MAN!

Great video. Thank you. What was the resin you used for the actual part as I'm looking to make a multi-compartment tool box.

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

I would recommend a resin from bjb enterprises they will have what you need for your application

You are a boss! I'd love to get your help on casting a small part. Mould orientation, where to place vents and sprues etc. Do you have a patreon for this sort of thing?

Exelent video... great technique... thanks for sharing your knowledge One Question... Can you make GEARS for an E-Bike Transmission with the RESIN material you used??? Does it stand wear and some heat???

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

You just need to choose the correct resin with the properties that you want

This is an astonishing video. Thanks. How much different is your polymer pour from that of polymer used for a rifle. I was interested in making some of my own rifle parts, and was curious how to make my own molds lead me to your video. This video made it seem fairly easy to set up at home, however I was wondering the structure rigidity difference between an at home pour vs factory. Mind you, I am aware of it depends on the maker , but in your case. How close do you think you could replicate the quality of strong polymer parts.

Eric, when you color match, do you need to cast the entire finished part or can you do small batch tests in something like an ice cube tray?

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

Testing in small batches is a pretty good idea, ice cube tray would probably work well, or just small mixing cup

Cool

Hello, This is awesome. Lemme ask a question, What is a good resin I could use for producing commercial wireless charging cases? Thanks.

@EricStrebel

Жыл бұрын

Check with support at Rampf and BJB Enterprise

How do you make the vent tubes, you say urethane resin in straws, and it looks like you cast the pour hole inside the funnel? What resin do you use for this, and do they need to be coated with release before pouring the top half of the mold? Thanks, great video!

@EricStrebel

Жыл бұрын

Yes, our urethane resin into staws, cut and sharpen in pencil sharpener. Any resin can be used.no mold release if you use a plastic straw.

This video revolutionized the way I think about making resin molds! About the way you used packing tape to cover the holes, is there any worry that the mold may become damaged when removing the part(s) and ripping the positive mold side? Also, how long do you figure the mold will last considering the size and shape? Thanks!

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

Ripping the molds is always a possibility just have to be careful. You should get 20 parts out of a mold more if you're gentle

Great video. I want to make like 100 small parts bins for screws and stuff. What resin would you recommend? The problem is it probably won’t be more then 1/32inch thick. Maybe 4x3x3 inch. Thanks.

@EricStrebel

Жыл бұрын

Yes a quality 65 or seventy shore D duromerer resin, try @bjbeneteprises

Thank you for your reply, I have a 3D printer.

Make a hailong battery case. Which is use for E bick.

hi, why is important to dgas in the pressure tank. i,m a hobby and i want to cast some pieces but dont have the pressure tank, and what kind of resin recommend for a hi ressistant platic gears. thanks

@EricStrebel

4 ай бұрын

Degassing is done in a vacuum tank, casting is done in a pressure tank after degassing the resin. Watch my most recent video for resin recommendations.

Do you have a process for color matching, or do you just go by your personal sense of the color? If you have a process, that would be a great subject for a video!

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

Good point, color matching is super hard

Wow. That seemed to work so well. What resin are you using for the final piece… pu?

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

Usually a resin from rampf 3070

Why did you skip the internal thread for the screw? Did you tap it afterwards?

@EricStrebel

Жыл бұрын

I let the client deal with it, they can drill it to whatever they want.

Hi Eric, thanks for the video. I have a quick question, i got some polyurethane resin that i want to use, but the curing time is about 3min and i dont think it will give enough time to degas it. Is there a product that can extend the curing time?.

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

Nope, not that I know of. Get a resin that has a longer working time.

Would a pressure pot do the same thing with the bubbles in the silicone?

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

Yes it would, so not something you want in your silicone

Which type of resin is use here?

Great video, Eric! Your tutorials are exceptional in that they are methodical and can basically serve as scholarly courses. I really admire your work! I was meaning to ask you for the advise for quite some time now. Namely, I am working on a toy prototype, and I am in the phase when I cast various parts of it using Smooth-on's Smooth Cast 310. I have a bit of a trouble producing the right colour of the part by using So-strong pigments. Namely, how does one measure the right amount of the pigment that goes into resin in order to achieve repeatable results (i.e. to ensure each copy of the part in the series is the same colour)? I find it quite hard to estimate the right amount of pigment since it is so strong on one hand, and the resin tends to turn lighter when it cures so the colour attained when the resin is in a liquid state is not the same when the resin cures. How does one overcome this difficulty? Thank you for your consideration.

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

Good question, put them in a dropper bottle so you can measure the drops of color 😊

@aleksandart.lovcanski1581

2 жыл бұрын

@@EricStrebel Thank you, sir! Sounds logical :)

Wich resin are u using?

With such a large and precisely rectangular product, were you worried at all about the silicone mold deforming a bit without the box sides to support it and keep things square? The end product looks great, but have you run into that problem before?

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

Nope, it's a cover that houses somethings, not that important for this part

Great video! Thanks! Question: could you use a dummy block in the second pouring to save some silicone? For example placing a hanging wood block in the middle of the original plastic part and then pour the silicone. This would create a big recess on the silicone but would save a lot of silicone, which is expensive. Then, when pouring the resin you could still place the wood block to make it stiffer and remove it after curing to ease the demolding.

@EricStrebel

Жыл бұрын

You could but I don't think it's worth it

@peetman23

Жыл бұрын

@@EricStrebel looking at smooth on prices for their silicones, maybe a $40 or $50 savings would be expected. Also for even larger pieces could be nice to save some bucks.

@EricStrebel

Жыл бұрын

Best to cut up old molds and recycle them, it's just a huge pain in the ass I find to do that

Hi Eric, I'd like to understand what happens with perpendicular holes that are ininside the box in each corner, that seem to be for screws or similar. How do you reproduce them on the copy?

@EricStrebel

Жыл бұрын

They are drilled after the part is removed from the mold.

@bjornml.08

Жыл бұрын

@@EricStrebel Great to know! Tks!

Would this method work the same for makimg boxes that have a lid like a rugged box case to hold cameras and electronics Obviously 2 moulds one for the box base and one for the lid

@EricStrebel

7 ай бұрын

Yes ,of course

@ne14gfx66

7 ай бұрын

@@EricStrebel Great. thanks for your fast response

How well does your resin capture surface details like scale diamond plate and rivets?

@alexstratford278

2 жыл бұрын

If you notice at the end of the video the resin captured the little sticker on the end, I've also seen resin capture things all the way down to sub .05mm print lines on models I've ordered

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

Captures everything

awesome video as usual Eric, can you give me a ball park on what you charge to copy a hanger is what they call it for my sony mdrxb950bt aheadset. Its the part that holds the headset or the earphones. These are the weakest part of these headsets and and they are not available anymore as a replacement parts. I was going to have them 3d printed but I don't know what is more cost effective , cast them or print them. I saw how you make your parts with resins and they look nice. please reach out to me , thank you

@EricStrebel

Жыл бұрын

3d printing is gonna be way more cost effective

@odiemarilla6096

Жыл бұрын

@@EricStrebel ok 3d print it is, can i send you a pair of good ones L and R and can you replicate them in black and how will i pay you? and if all is good where can i send them? thank you sir

what is kicker? I'm from the UK if that helps

@EricStrebel

2 жыл бұрын

It's a chemical accelerant that cures the cyanoacrylate virtually instantly