Huge thanks for this video. Everyone else just breezes through the removal of the throttle body, which is the most involved part and has the most potential for costly mistakes. 👏

Thanks for your VERY helpful video, Steve! I installed an idle screw on my '23 KTM 300XCW and although it took me 4.5 hrs to do it (slow learner), it was relatively easy and now I have an adjustable idle screw -- as the bike should be. This is my first 2-stroke motorcycle -- have only owned it 6 weeks -- and prior to watching your vid, I didn't even know how to take the seat off. So... learning curve. Anyway now I've not only got an adjustable idle screw, I'm also much more confident about taking my bike apart and putting it back together for service as needed. THANK YOU SO MUCH for making a really thorough video that was so thorough that even a rank beginner like me can feel comfortable taking such a project on. Though I admit I was terrified while heating my throttle body up to remove the stock screw. Whatever -- it worked perfectly.

We really appreciate these videos Steve! Very easy to follow your step by step instructions.

Great video. I just got my TSP kit and am installing mine. I really struggled getting the airbox boot off the throttle body. I'm not sure if it's because it's cold here or what. I gouged up my throttle body trying to get a screw driver in to help it off. I was going to rip the boot right out of my airbox I was using so much force and it still wouldn't come off. My suggestion is don't even think about using a screw driver. What I found was MUCH easier is to loosen the clamp at the reed block. Pull up the sub-frame up and the throttle body will easily pull out of the reed block. Now you can twist, and tilt the throttle body to the side which will make is MUCH easier to get it out of the airbox boot (no screw driver!). There is a sharp little lip on the throttle body that makes pulling it straight out very difficult. So this way makes it way easier and save you an hour of swearing.

Best instruction video for first timers! Thank you!

Thank you for this. Just installed an idle screw in my 2019 KTM 300. Was having troubles with idling, and wanted to use the bypass screw to adjust mixture at idle. Was running fairly lean to get the rpm for tickover. Running much better now, and followed most of your instructions to a T.

This was a great video I used it comprehensively today. So well made, really helpful for a newbie like me. Only thing I found was on my bike the wake up dongle wouldn’t prime until I reattached the fuel tank pump connector. Not sure if I maybe didn’t hold the throttle open long enough though I did try it several times, I reattach the fuel tank and it worked

Great Video! This is the only one I could find that goes through the whole process! I haven't removed the throttle body before so this was helpful! About to start this job now, wish me luck!

This the most detail idle screw installation I watched thanks !

OK now this is the LAZY BOY option. I didn't want to tear my brand new 2 week old 2021 Husky 300 TPI down so this is what I did. First I removed the single retaining screw and popped off the throttle cover (I did not need to remove the exhaust to do this, I just GENTLY pushed it from the OTHER SIDE on it's edge at the top with a broad bladed screw driver and it popped off). Secondly I could see the blue Locktite on the screw and I sprayed it 4 times with ordinary DISC BRAKE CLEANER, 30 minutes apart, and left it overnight. Next day all visible blue Loctite was gone, an encouraging sign, but I knew that some would still be active in the threaded section of the housing. I then removed a 2.5 Allen/hex from a folding bicycle Allen tool set which have those big loops at the end when you take them out of the set (the loop is critical for leverage, a standard Allen wrench will not work) I then fitted that to the idle screw and once in place, used a bigger Allen wrench handle through the loop in the 2.5 as a lever (any handy short lever would do just as well).Very slowly I kept pressure on it but TIGHTENING it, not UNDOING it. (So many people go wrong trying to loosen reluctant engine setting screws, tighten them first whenever it is possible because the wrench is being pushed in, much less chance of stripping the hex). Just as the 2.5 Allen started to twist a little under strain, it gradually turned the idle screw a fraction so I stopped and warmed the engine to full operating temperature.

Very thorough explanation! Fantastic video!!

Thanks for this, very helpful. I did it without removing the pipe, just a bit fiddly. I found with the plate covering the throttle cables was hard to separate and I didn't want to force anything so I pushed it at the top from the left side with a screwdriver. Cheers

Excellent video. For those without a blow torch, I used a few drops of super glue debonder to loosen up the loctite holding the throttle body grub screw. Grub screw came out easily.

Really good and clear information. Thanks!

Great video. Very helpful. It's easier to remove the right side plastic than removing the the frame protector.

You edited out the hardest part… removing the airboot and I understand why

Thanks Steve! Super helpful vid!!

Super video merci

Hey! Nice video. Courious to hear about the air screw setup after the mod. Thanks

Top video grazie 🙏