Dave- I have followed your brake cleaning procedure and front wheel/ caliper alignment for the past 5 years. Most people think its a waste of time until they have a front end chatter or weak brake pressure that they can't figure out. Every couple of track days I do this to my bikes and have had great success. Thanks

All other wheel removal videos should be removed from KZread. I haven’t seen a single one go into so much of the hidden technical stuff this one shows. Thanks Dave!

@TRU_Lunchy

3 жыл бұрын

If he added hanging the calipers with bungie's and lightly greasing the axle then it would be the perfect video.

@catalystreactionsbw

3 жыл бұрын

@@TRU_Lunchy Amazing how many engineers abhor the axle being greased. They advocate WD40 instead due to grease aggregating dirt. So many perspectives. Hanging the calipers is indeed a good habit.

2021 S1000RR M sport took off wheels brought them to the dealer they put the new tires on mounted them. Rear wheel went on fine. Had a lot of trouble with the front couldn't figure out why the wheel was not spinning freely and it was because the calipers were not aligning with the rotors. This video is pure gold as before I found this video I've searched endlessly to try and find a remedy for my conflict. I will always be sure to use the brakes while tightening the calipers and then take the bike off the stand with the left pinch bolts loose and bounce up and down and then tighten. Thank you so much Dave for putting out these amazing videos that help less knowledgeable people like us! Watch Love from the United States!

@catalystreactionsbw

2 ай бұрын

Thank you very much for posting your experience and sharing that with the YT community. Glad the video was "gold" for you and remedied a bad situation. I'll keep making the videos.

I just had a new front tire installed and I put my wheel back on the bike (08 FZ1). After finding and watching this video, I’m going to take the wheel back off and reinstall it per the instructions. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!

Dude you’re a saint for sharing such an extensive knowledge on these types of things. Thanks Dave, and please keep it up sir!

@janjac2005

4 жыл бұрын

The best Man in Universe !!!

By far the clearest and most complete explanation of not only how to do things right, but why the proper way works. You're awesome!.

Mr Moss, A big thank you from me and I’m sure all others who have been here and the many other videos you have done. It is much appreciated you taking the time and giving your knowledge to other like minded enthusiasts. I only work on my own bikes for one reason and that is, I know it is done right and I’m safe. You Sir are above anyone else I have learnt from and you never stop learning even after 40 years of riding. Thanks again.

@catalystreactionsbw

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you Rhys for taking the time to share gracious words. They are sincerely appreciated.

Thanks for this. Simply awesome. Following a read of some of the comments, I find it more logical to align the axle's free side first, then align the brake callipers as doing the reverse may end up dis-aligning the brakes.

@catalystreactionsbw

7 жыл бұрын

Yes, that makes a lot more logical sense. Thank you for the comment in that regard.

@thewebkat

6 жыл бұрын

I was wondering the same thing ,axle first and then calibers

@Shawn855

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for voicing what I was thinking. Thought I was the only one thinking of this

@andrechagas4549

3 ай бұрын

I love that, besides being the most qualified KZreadrs on this area, Dave was humble enough to consider some random guy commenting on his video and actually changed this procedure order on his next videos.

Glad you're making all these videos on an RSV4. Not too many how-tos on that exceptional bike that I happen to own.

Murphy's Law: no matter which tool I need, it's ALWAYS on the other side of the bike. GRRRRRR

Thanks for setting my bike up at the 'Shiny Side Up' yesterday Dave. The ride home was much more comfortable. I will be dropping out the front wheel and following your advice regarding refitting and alignment. Just need to source a replacement rear shock now. It was a pleasure to meet you and listen to your talks throughout the day. Very informative.

@catalystreactionsbw

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for reporting back on the ride home. Glad you enjoyed your time at SSU and thank you for listening to the information presented.

Thanks for posting this video. I cant' imagine the mess I would have been in removing and reinstalling the front wheel on my '08 Tuono without it.

I snug the axle up with the nut before tightening the left hand (facing forward) fork pinch bolts, so as to make sure that it's lightly snugged and aligned. Then I follow through as you do with loosening that leg and continuing. I did not think about aligning the calipers as you do, however. Very good tip. Cheers. Also I love the RSV4, currently have a 2013 SE and a 2016 RF. Exciting bikes. EDIT: Note that Dave does not use the front brake when he is bouncing the bike. This is very important as the brakes can hold the fork in the wrong position and negate the benefit of doing this procedure. I use a person to put a foot or shin against the tire whenever one is available, and occassionally will roll the bike up to a wall or obstacle to give it a good bounce on bikes that are problematical (like my 08 gsx-r).

@mrmaker9355

6 ай бұрын

I can see a problem with this. If you fit the calipers before bouncing the front end to align the forks on the axle, if the fork leg needs to move to align, it will be trying to do so against the pads and disc (rotter) even though dave is the guru. I will be fitting the calipers after the bounce and tightening of the fork pinch bolts.

i am impressed that the 1290 manual also mentions to hold the brake before tightening the caliper bolts. i never thought a users manual would actually mention such a detail. your video is fantastic and detailed as always

@catalystreactionsbw

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you - appreciate you mentioning this "new" addition to the KTM 1290 manual.

This is one of the best video's on the net on wheel alignment of the front wheel and brakes. Tks Dave great job.

You're an excellent instructor! Thanks for the lesson!

@catalystreactionsbw

5 ай бұрын

Thank you for your kind words. Glad you enjoyed the video.

Awesome instructions, not too many on the RSV4 out there. Detailed, clear and well made. Good tips! And yes, my front wheel turned easier after doing this too. Thanks! Keep up the good work.

I have to admit it is the best method to alighn calipers to discs, and thanks to you. Rotors spin perfectly between pads. Moreover I tie wrap the front brake lever so I can work easy and with both hands freely. I align calipers last after I finish with axle. so before i tight the pinch bolts I come facing towards the triple clamp, push down each fork from top and stroke the hole front end down hardly.in this position I have confidence to stroke the suspension hard without using the brake. It's like a small ritual every step you take, and it's the best feeling when you torque the bolts and finally spin the front wheel, hear the pads grinning smoothy the discs, then push front brake quick and hear the sound of power stopping the wheel...boooooom ready to drive.

I think I reference this video every time I remove my front wheel. The knowledge you bring to motorcycling is amazing!!! Hope to see you back in CA this year for a suspension tune and to say hello again!

@catalystreactionsbw

Жыл бұрын

Thank you! My 2023 schedule is posted here: davemosstuning.com/calendar/ so I wil look forward to see you.

Extremely helpful video! Thanks for taking the time to put it together. I've had the calipers off several times for cleaning and tire replacement, but never aligned the calipers like this. I have noticed slight uneven alignment. As I brake I can feel slight pressure differences. Just purchased new tires. I'm excited to follow these steps! Thanks again!!

Great procedure, Dave! Just replaced front pads on my DL1000 and on one caliper, the piston travel was 60/40. I didn't touch the axle then, but now it'll get reset! Thanks man! 👌🏻

Thank you so much Dave! I have the 2010 factory and appreciate your tips on setting the calipers. It's the little things.

Fantastic! Thoroughly and patiently explained. Thanks a lot, Dave!

Very well done, thanks for taking the time to post this.

Great explanation of captive and free forks.. Had to watch it a few times to ingest and figure out which side was which on my 02 gsxr 1000.. It's opposite of the bike in this video.. Really appreciate your teaching and attention to detail!!

Thanks for making the time and effort to record this video. Has provided invaluable assistance on how to do this job properly.

Just finished doing my front brakes on my gen1 'busa... thanks for all the tips! Really helpful for me, and I assume, many others.

Thanks Dave as always a succinct master class .

In 2022 this is great for me! Dave you are the Guru of all time! Cheers Sir!

great to see you posting again I love your how tos

Thanks Dave - front wheel spinning better than ever

Thanks for a very well presented instructional video. I have to change the tire on my Varadero so am going to follow this closely since it's a much more practical way to align the calipers than playing around with a feeler gauges as suggested in my owner's manual.

Thanks Dave I have to reinstall the front wheel on my Super Adventure this am after having the front wheel trued. This helps immensely.

The best video on line for this job. It was perfect for my 1st time on my 1198s. Many Thanks Dave

@catalystreactionsbw

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for using the video and your kind words!!

Just did this to fix a wheel bearing. Thanks for tips Dave!

Love ALL your vids. Thank you.

Awesome work Mr Moss!

Perfect explanation, thanks for sharing this.

great video dave. i am also curious why you do the caliper alignment first? and if it matters which is done first.

THAT ist incredible! I own a Tuono Factory from 2018 and will use this great video to change my wheel. THANK YOU so much!!

What and awesome video, just done the front on my Griso and so glad to have seen this! Everyone should watch!

i love your videos, Dave. best bar none

it is much saffer to loose first the brake callibers so you wont have the fear of dropping your bike when you unscrew the callipers.. thanks mr moss for the helpful videos

That is one superb video mister. Thank you!

nice presentation Mr. Dave

@catalystreactionsbw

9 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching and commenting!

thanks Dave. doing my rsv1000 front wheel for the first time. really good vid with techniques and reasons for why you do things a certain way. very clear. cheers!’

@catalystreactionsbw

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for getting stuck in and learning something new. Hope the task went well!

Thank You Dave!

The front wheel confuses the hell out of me. Great and insightful video. On my 2014 ZX10R I think the calipers fit over a "nub" of sorts where the bolts go into the bracket. Is this the same as having locating pins?? Thanks!!

Gran vídeo, muy buena comparativa. Realmente los 61mpx no hacen falta, pero queda claro que no hacen ningún mal no aportan nada malo, con lo que es un extra más y contando con el recorte realmente es como tener dos lentes en una en ciertos casos. Gracias por el vídeo

My 04/06 r1 calipers have alignment pins, should I still do this just to be sure all is squared up perfectly or do the pins completely eliminate the need for this. I do know the pins are nice and snug fit so don’t see them not working properly.

Dave you rock! Thanks for this

Thanks Dave, you’re Brilliant

Brilliant stuff Dave ;-)

true technician. just a fellow mechanic from greece cheers

@catalystreactionsbw

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you sir!

Thanks for the great video Dave Moss, would not have been confident changing out my front wheel if not for your excellent video. Love to see one on the rear wheel of the Aprilia too especially any tips on getting the chain slack correct and aligned.

@catalystreactionsbw

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment. I thought we did have the rear wheel video posted bit a search showed it was missing. I'll ask Dave Williams Editor if he has it.

shouldnt you tighten the calipers after you set and tighten the non captive end of the forks? if the forks can move while bouncing the front end, the pistons in the caliper might not be extended the same distance after setting the forkleg. so i'd tighten the captive end, bounce the forks, then do the tightening of the calipers while holding brake pressure like you showed.

@catalystreactionsbw

3 жыл бұрын

In the latest version of this video - we do it exactly that way.

Hey Dave...quick question on the caliper locating pins you mentioned at the end of this video. I have 08' R1 fork on my FZ1 and I was wondering if this is the same way you would do them? Are the locating pins the slots the calipers seat into before you run the caliper bolt through? Thanks Mike

@jacobhendrickson8935

5 жыл бұрын

AFM674 not sure I understand your question but I will say my 04 r1 has guide pins on my calipers. I believe yours do too.

Thank you, Dave. Do you recommend a particular method for removing brake pad material from rotors?

@catalystreactionsbw

5 жыл бұрын

We are doing a video on that in the next month or so. Best way is a brake hone (slow and careful) compared to sand blasting or sanding by hand.

Proper good informative video that Dave 👏

@catalystreactionsbw

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks 👍

Dave why do you do the calipers first and then the axle? As the left fork leg moves when pushing the bike down, won't it and thus also the calipers have moved relativly to the rotor? Wouldn't it be more logical to do the caliper after you've done the axle.

@catalystreactionsbw

6 жыл бұрын

True, there are many ways to do this so the most logical or common sense way of doing it is the way you choose. The method shown was done so to create debate over the process so thank you for watching and contributing.

@Ducati_Dude

6 жыл бұрын

Oh shit... I've done it wrong then??? 😱

@sergiotrozzi4178

5 жыл бұрын

Maniacmaniak song

@dennisrkb

5 жыл бұрын

can't agree more. i always settle the axle first, pinch it, then align the calipers..

@u563rick6

4 жыл бұрын

4 years later but this is the way I’m thinking about this, I’m definitely an amateur garage monkey but being being that the calipers bolt down to a hard fixed point on the fork and one side of the fork legs is “free” to drift around just a bit, you’d want to do that last. Let the calipers align with the rotors & then let the free side settle. To explain.... When applying the brakes to lock the calipers in alignment with the rotors, If this action causes a bit of a twist resulting in a misaligned free fork, you still have the freedom to align the “free” fork so it can seat it’s self correctly. Now all is in harmony.

Totally logical, thanks !

But what about floating brake calipers? I overhauled my brake calipers on Pan European ST1100, followed same procedure as Dave described . I had some friction and I thought that with aligned and almost new calipers wheels should spin 100% freely with absolute no contact. This is very wrong, a slight contact exist always when the brakes are done right and the whole air is extracted from system. My brake lever is now like at most of the new bikes there's only 1/4 of an inch free play even less. I have tried even some factory new bikes and some had more free play on lever , which means? If you by a new bike, redo a brake fluid and check for aligment. Cheers and safe riding

Hi dave, is there a correct way to align the forks in the triple clamps after replacing the steering head bearings?

@catalystreactionsbw

6 жыл бұрын

Once the bearings have been replaced, the forks should slide straight into the triple clamps. If one fork seems slightly off, loosen the steering stem nut slightly and see if the fork slides in easier that way. Once in, tighten the steering stem nut and use calipers to measure fork height.

Wow you make it look so easy what about 2016 BMW s1000RR? thank you

Layman's question: Since the calipers are fixed to the forks, would it be better to seat the forks first, then the calipers?

@catalystreactionsbw

3 жыл бұрын

Yes it would be the case to go that route. We posted a video with that process.

great video and best bike ever!! question: which torque to apply to the fork pinch bolts? it is not written in my RSV4 the maintenance manual...

@catalystreactionsbw

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! 10 to 12 ft pounds is a common number associated with pinch bolts at the base of the fork.

Just like my father taught me & my brother.

Thank You for sharing!

Thanks mate, very much appreciated

I wish I had a Dave Moss closer to WA state. A clone would be perfect!

@catalystreactionsbw

3 жыл бұрын

You are just one video call away for remote Tuning!

@jwoo1302

3 жыл бұрын

@@catalystreactionsbw I'll get on it soon. Thank you for all that you do ❤!

Hey Dave, I've been reading your comments and I think I know what you are going to say, for me to try it and see how it works for me. I have a Kawasaki ZX-14R and the axle nut is on the left side of the bike and is essentially the same as the other end once it is all together, the Aprilia has an external nut on the right side. I use a velcro buckle strap to lock my front brake lever. My question is what are your thoughts on leaving the brakes locked/on while I lower the front end of the bike and do my compressions? Even the service manual says to pump the forks but it lacks a lot to be desired. Seems to me with the brakes smooth against the pads the whole time, they would stay put.

@catalystreactionsbw

4 жыл бұрын

Barry - many ways to do it. I choose no brake pressure so the caliper/rotor are not holding that fork in one position on the free leg. Lots of ways to do one task :)

@barryweaver8833

4 жыл бұрын

@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks again for your quick feedback! I know the process isn't super critical but if you want maximum braking then it's worth it. The service manual even suggests fork compressions and so I combined it and your video to make my own procedure checklist for my bike. The service manual is absolutely horrible and unclear and leaves out important info I feel like, but anyway it has you installing the calipers last and I actually like that since you aren't changing anything else after you torque them. I set the axle first and get that out of the way. The manual also says to torque the free leg pinch bolts first and the nut side last, but then again the design of the rod & nut are different than the Aprillia. I appreciate your work and thank you. Here is my write up below, if you like let me know what you think. ********************* Reinstalling ZX-14 front wheel with proper alignment Inspired by Dave Moss and the service manual. * Evenly means that both caliper bolts and both pinch bolts are tightened a little at a time back & forth several times, meaning that you don't tighten and torque just one bolt all the way and then the other all of the way. But you already know this. Note: I will keep the same format of the service manual which refers to the left/right side of the bike rather than "Your" left/right hand position. (ex. the right side just may or may not be at your left & vice versa) 1) Place everything back finger tight. First insert the axle rod (ensure with wheel spacers) and you may need a wrench on each side to assist, but this is only with hand snug tension. (I use two wrenches with additional 22mm adapters - see figure A) Note; The axle rod is inserted with the left hand on both the rear and front wheels or from opposite sides of the bike. Then place the calipers & bolts back on finger tight and finger tighten all pinch bolts. 2) Torque front Axle. (OEM 93 ft. lbs.) (CMUSA 35 - 40 for Carrozzeria) 3) Set & Secure the front Axle. Carefully and gently lower the front end to the ground and push down on the triple clamp a few times to compress the forks. This will settle the axle in place for optimum seating & positioning. 4) Torque all pinch/clamp bolts. (OEM 15 ft. lbs.) With the bike still down, torque the right side pinch bolts *evenly to spec (this is the free leg). Then torque the left side pinch bolts *evenly to spec (this is the captive leg or nut end of the rod). 5) Align front Calipers. (OEM 25 ft. lbs. / 26 for Brembo) Lift the front end back up onto the stand and spin the front wheel and apply some brake pressure a few times. Then spin the front wheel as fast as you can and quickly & firmly grab the brake lever. While holding the brake, or by placing a velcro strap w/buckle to hold the brake for you (see figure B). You may now torque all 4 brake caliper bolts *evenly to spec. Release brake pressure and inspect.

Hi Dave, I have a 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R the manual recomend to take the bike down from the stand and adjust the calipers can I do that or do your way ?

@catalystreactionsbw

3 ай бұрын

Try both and see what works best for you or alternatively, what is more logical.

Ive always had front pad chatter on my FJR1300'S over the years, thought it was a design flaw. All I was ever told was to put more copper grease behind the pads, no good. Wonder if alignment was the issue now.

@catalystreactionsbw

5 жыл бұрын

That and cleaning the brake calipers regularly with a toothbrush and dish washing soap to make sure you don't have one or more stuck pistons in the caliper.

are torque settings to the pinch bolts very important?

@catalystreactionsbw

7 жыл бұрын

yes, as there are different size bolts, different head fitment (allen, hex etc) and different shapes (with or without shoulder) which significantly changes the torque valves.

Hello , You not scratch the paint of the rims with the caliper? 🤔

Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

Hi I have a question; I wonder how come you don't adjust the brake caliper as a last step?

Awesome vid, i fitted new front today, when i spin the wheel, it sticks in one spot? Could this be because its been sat for a few months over winter?

@catalystreactionsbw

3 жыл бұрын

Spin the wheel and confirm the spot. Remove the brake calipers and push the pads out of the way. out of the way. Spin the wheel again and see if you hear a touch on the pads and if so check the rotor for being flat and make sure the caliper pistons are really clean with a toothbrush and soapy water so they move out and retract in unison as you might have a stuck piston.

Good stuff. What if the axle does not align straight across the forks. That means the forks are misaligned axial and radially. What is the best procedure to correct this?

@catalystreactionsbw

3 жыл бұрын

If an axle will not line up, perhaps the fork settings are different for preload. Perhaps a spring in one leg is different to another in length. Perhaps the forks are set at different heights. Do some checking to find out why. Once you know, you can get the issue corrected.

Question: do you put bearings grease (lithium white one) on the bearings before installing back the wheel?

@catalystreactionsbw

4 жыл бұрын

White lithium dries up and turns to powder. If I do use grease it is high temp wheel bearing grease. On the wheel spacers a very small amount. Most wheel bearings are sealed.

Thanks dude! Maybe re-working how I fit the m50 calipers back onto my rotor and fork legs will help solve my dragging brake issue since I can't take the m50's apart to clean.

@catalystreactionsbw

6 жыл бұрын

Agreed and usually a toothbrush and soapy water frees any stuck piston(s). Sometimes 5 minutes isn't enough and the longest amount of quiet time I have had to get pistons working well is 20 minutes on one caliper.

Thank you Sensei

YOU CAN STILL DO THIS AFTER TIGHTENING THE AXLE NUT. JUST KEEP CALIPERS LOOSE.

I’m having trouble understanding why you aligned the caliper on the “free leg” before you compressed the front suspension to settle the “free leg” into position. Could the free leg settling into position change the brake alignment?

@catalystreactionsbw

3 жыл бұрын

We have another video that follows your thought process.

i have a question when you spin the wheel you say its running freely,there is still a bit of drag from the pad as the wheel stops abruptly ??when i got my 2017 blade recently i would clean the wheel with zero rub atal,changed mudguard over and i get a bit now,went back did it by the book/owners manual and its a lot better,took it for a run round the block and still good,is a little brake drag like yours to be expected as the calipers been off?and after a decent run will this bed in again ?

@catalystreactionsbw

6 жыл бұрын

You will get a little drag sometimes and if it does not go away, removing the pistons and cleaning them plus dust and oil seals in the caliper becomes necessary. That is normally deferred to Winter :)

@wevsky

6 жыл бұрын

oh i changed the seals and cleaned up the pistons on my old 2001 fireblade the brakes still dragged,its just this 2017 blade is the first bike the front wheel has spun totally freely,then didnt after we took the calipers off,brakes still working as they should so its all good

Why do you tighten the pinch bolts on the captive side before aligning the front wheel? Doesn't this side require alignment too? In other words, wouldnt it make sense to compress the fork a few times with pinch bolts loose on both sides?

@catalystreactionsbw

4 жыл бұрын

Yes it would given your path of thinking. Both brake caliper require alignment. The captive fork is held between the locking device and wheel bearing so it cannot move.

Thanks for the demonstration. However, stupid question from a noob learning to maintain and repair my own bikes. 1: How do you know when to replace the Oil Seal on the front wheel? 2: What is the proper method and/or lubricant to lube the front wheel? Back wheel on my FJR is a no brainer, if it leaks oil, replace the seals and change the oil. But the front has no oil.

@catalystreactionsbw

11 ай бұрын

Thanks for your questions. I must be honest and am not sure what you are asking for in regards to leaking oil. There is no oil seal on the front wheel - there is a rubber/plastic cover over the wheel bearings to keep dirt out and grease in. Same is true of the rear wheel. If you are asking when to clean and add new grease to the wheel bearings, I would suggest every 20,000kms. If i misunderstood you, please set me straight.

Thank you Dave for your most helpful videos.. all of them! Q; Shouldn't one align the fork tubes first? then the brake calipers, to the now perfectly aligned tubes? im not saying your wrong just honestly asking. thanks so much.

@catalystreactionsbw

4 жыл бұрын

Yes, that would make sense to make sure the forks are aligned, then tighten the calipers. There are many ways to do something, so experiment both ways to see if it makes a difference for you & your bike.

@vanhap

4 жыл бұрын

@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks Dave for your wealth of tuning and setup videos. Love having the audio sharing what and why your doing as you go along.. You've set the bar very high my friend.

Thank you!

they have locating pins its called the 2 bolts dave....

How to prevent the pads from "closing in" when the caliper is removed ? I believe I had that problem once before. Thanks

@catalystreactionsbw

4 жыл бұрын

If the pads close in there is always too much fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. To stop that you can place something between the pads (spanner/wrench) while work is done.

My bike have hard shake after 200 kmh. What I see is that front right caliper is 1-2 mm out off center, toward inside. We loose 2 pinch bolts and move right fork 1-2mm toward outside to adjust caliper back to center of brake disk. After this no more shaking.

@catalystreactionsbw

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for being diligent and curing the shaking!

After doing this method, left leg is still not aligned well and the caliper (not the pads) is touching the rotor on one side. I think I am not pushing the forks hard enough. Would it be a bad idea to leave the pinch bolts on the left side loose, then go for a very short drive on the parking lot and brake a few times, and then tighten the pinch bolts?

@catalystreactionsbw

3 жыл бұрын

I have rarely had a reason to do so, but I have loosened the free leg pinch bolts and ridden up and down 30m with controlled braking to center the leg, then tighten the pinch bolts.

thank you so much ！

7:45 so you're saying to continue holding pressure on front brakes as tightening the calipers in place...? 10:10 that rubbing sound to me I always thought that wasn't supposed to be as such.

@catalystreactionsbw

4 жыл бұрын

Yes, correct.

Thanks Dave. This is more technical getting it back together than I would have guessed. However, I'm not sure I understand the need to remove the calipers.... Won't the wheel just drop away from them? Why the need to remove? Although getting them remounted correctly with your technique I am going to remember when I next remove them to clean them. Good stuff.

@catalystreactionsbw

4 жыл бұрын

Generally, all bikes with two calipers need them removed as they don't come with quick change pivots. In some cases with one caliper, it can stay. Thanks for leveraging the video for your next caliper cleaning session!

@ArcanePath360

4 жыл бұрын

@@catalystreactionsbw I'm not sure I understand. To my mind, the calipers are independent of the wheel, attached to the fork legs with the pads barely touching the discs. Surely once the axle is removed the wheel can be pulled forwards and down with the calipers where they are?

I had my tires changed at a Triumph dealer (which is no longer a triumph dealer) and the incompetent tech put my front tire on backwards... I did some low speed scrubbing in the parking lot, had my wife get on, and pulled to the driveway to the main road. I was making a left hand turn and as soon as I let the clutch all the way out the engine started stuttering bucking the bike as the traction control was trying to slow the rear tire down to match the front, as in it could not sense front wheel movement since the sensor was now on the wrong side... I tried more gas and made it worse, I was still on the wrong side of the road, in the middle of the a lean I thought I could accelerate out of. I had to tighten the turn more into on coming traffic to catch myself, with cars getting closer, trying to get over to the middle with a uncontrollable bike that is wobbling with a passenger that is trying to grab on to not fall off. I pulled the clutch in to get the revs up, I regain control of the engine and I go the bike to the center lane... I was just super happy I gave myself a big gap to accelerate slow on new tires or that could have ended different.. most pissed I have ever been at a dealer... well maybe second most pissed...

@catalystreactionsbw

4 жыл бұрын

Glad you managed to get out of that situation. Now with all the electronics we have, every time we get our bikes back we have to do a visual cursory check. For that very reason I take my wheels in and leave the bike at home.

Spot on cheers

You always take the caliper off when taking off the front tyre?

@perryschaeffer5432

5 ай бұрын

he has to.

Great vid but unfortunately it doesn't quite apply to my bike. The wheel axle on my '83 Seca 900 has a hex head and bolt so once you torque it down there is no more free play with the forks. They're set exactly where they are. My brakes keep dragging and I have no idea how to figure this out.

@catalystreactionsbw

4 жыл бұрын

Soapy water and a toothbrush to get the pistons free: kzread.infosearch?query=cleaning+brake+claipers